jbshan
-
Posts
1,222 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
jbshan got a reaction from Eddie in SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse 1897 by Mirabell61 - FINISHED - scale 1:144 - POF - first German four stacker of the Norddeutscher Lloyd line
I've been watching for a while, Nils. Wooden sail is more my area than steel and steam, but maybe I can make a comment from time to time that is helpful.
Magnificent work, a Grand Old Dame, even if she does have a man's name.
-
jbshan got a reaction from mtaylor in SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse 1897 by Mirabell61 - FINISHED - scale 1:144 - POF - first German four stacker of the Norddeutscher Lloyd line
I've been watching for a while, Nils. Wooden sail is more my area than steel and steam, but maybe I can make a comment from time to time that is helpful.
Magnificent work, a Grand Old Dame, even if she does have a man's name.
-
jbshan got a reaction from mtaylor in SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse 1897 by Mirabell61 - FINISHED - scale 1:144 - POF - first German four stacker of the Norddeutscher Lloyd line
Yes, the grating allows the water to drain out (onto the deck aft?) while keeping the landing of the ladderway dry. You sometimes see gratings around the helm of a ship, laid onto a solid deck, purely for traction. Also, wood is slightly less slippery than steel, at least in a time when you didn't have miracle paint finishes like today.
-
jbshan got a reaction from Piet in SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse 1897 by Mirabell61 - FINISHED - scale 1:144 - POF - first German four stacker of the Norddeutscher Lloyd line
Yes, the grating allows the water to drain out (onto the deck aft?) while keeping the landing of the ladderway dry. You sometimes see gratings around the helm of a ship, laid onto a solid deck, purely for traction. Also, wood is slightly less slippery than steel, at least in a time when you didn't have miracle paint finishes like today.
-
jbshan reacted to Mirabell61 in SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse 1897 by Mirabell61 - FINISHED - scale 1:144 - POF - first German four stacker of the Norddeutscher Lloyd line
Rob and Greg,
perhaps the term " grating" is / was a bit confusing, it is simply a framed grate mesh plate to avoid slipping out on possible wet surfaces (rain and rough weather). The officers come down the stairway usualy at quite some pace and also change direction 90° on the landing
The structure to the bottom side is ventilated from underneath anyhow....
Nils
-
jbshan reacted to RichieG in Mayflower by RichieG - Model Shipways MS2020
Al, look at page 2 (the first text page of the manual), and check out the picture in the upper right. First, make sure that you glued a rabbet strip not only along the bottom, but also a shorter one (about 1.25 inches) along the back of the former. Then note that the taper occurs between the curved bearding line, and the two straight lines which are at the bottom and back of the former. So you do need to taper to the bottom and to the back (so I think you are incorrect when you say "you do not taper to the back edge".) The taper is gradual when the bearding line is farthest from the rabbet strip, and steepest when they are close together. I made a little sketch that might make it a little more clear; it's kind of tough to describe in words. In the sketch, the base of the arrows are at full thickness, and the points are thinned by 3/64" on each side (for 3/32" total decrease in thickness, and down from 3/16" to 3/32"). The longer arrows have a more gradual taper, as they have a longer distance to decrease that 3/64".
Some kits have you carve a rabbet all along the bottom and up the bow of the former, but in this kit, I think we avoid that effort by gluing on the rabbet strip. Note, in the middle column of text on that same page, Chuck says "you do not need to taper the bulkhead former forward of this area." So stop tapering when the bearding line ends.
-
jbshan got a reaction from RichieG in Mayflower by RichieG - Model Shipways MS2020
A lot of your post I'm going to let you check out your other sources as they are more fitting to the particular kit.
If you can make sure of the squareness of one of those bulkheads, then use the spacer to the next one, the distance is so small I don't think you could get too far off.
-
jbshan got a reaction from RichieG in Mayflower by RichieG - Model Shipways MS2020
I sometimes forget that a kit may be intended to be done in a particular way that is different than either prototype practice or the somewhat resembling manner that kits I have done have used. I also don't hesitate to change the kit if either the appearance doesn't fit my eye or the construction technique seems to have a better alternative.
-
jbshan got a reaction from Canute in NRG's Original Shop Notes Reprinted
I have to echo and reinforce Kurt's recommendation for both editions. They aren't a be-all and end-all of model building, but there's tons of stuff in each volume, organized in sections for ease of reference, and they are spiral-bound so they open flat for ease of use in the shop where you may have glunk on your hands and don't want to have to hold a book open.
-
jbshan got a reaction from Nirvana in US Brig Niagara by mikiek - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - First wooden ship build
No, Mike. Ideally they each had two hammocks so one could be washed and the other used. British practice of course, and I have doubts everybody slung a hammock every night purely from lack of room below decks. Many 'standard and customary' practices I doubt were used on these vessels.
-
jbshan got a reaction from Tigersteve in Mayflower by RichieG - Model Shipways MS2020
I sometimes forget that a kit may be intended to be done in a particular way that is different than either prototype practice or the somewhat resembling manner that kits I have done have used. I also don't hesitate to change the kit if either the appearance doesn't fit my eye or the construction technique seems to have a better alternative.
-
jbshan reacted to RichieG in Mayflower by RichieG - Model Shipways MS2020
Joel, your comments are plenty helpful in general, but in this particular context, there's something a little specific going on. I have faith that we'll eventually get there. (I may need some more replacement parts, if indeed I'm missing a piece on that 1/32" sheet. So, I'll have even more time to ponder stuff...)
In a way, my warped plywood gives me a second shot at carving out the bearding taper. I think I did ok the first time, but I can do a little better, I think.
I haven't done anything more on the ship's boat worth showing. I did use paper to plan out the 3 clinker planks, so I think I'll cut them out to the paper patterns and see how it fits. It's pretty small, so it's hard to know if I'm on the right track; the paper shifts under my hand, and even a small shift may make a big difference. I tried card stock, then regular paper, then post it notes (using the sticky side to stick to the boat. tape wasn't doing great either.) there may be some trial and error here.
-
jbshan reacted to kurtvd19 in Philadelphia by Elijah - Model Shipways - 1:24 Scale - Continental Gunboat
Elijah's also got my phone number and uses it - with my encouragement.
Kurt
-
jbshan got a reaction from John Allen in Philadelphia by Elijah - Model Shipways - 1:24 Scale - Continental Gunboat
Welcome to the world of Philadelphia. There are several folks with logs here. If you saved or can get the issues of Ships in Scale that contain the build by Kurt van Dam that is another resource.
-
jbshan got a reaction from RichieG in Mayflower by RichieG - Model Shipways MS2020
OK. I looked at the instructions. You are to plank over the rabbet strip, not up to it. Apparently you have to thin the former plate to match the rabbet strip. The keel goes on top later (p. 15 center para left side). Most of my comments will not be helpful.
-
jbshan got a reaction from Chuck Seiler in Philadelphia by Elijah - Model Shipways - 1:24 Scale - Continental Gunboat
Welcome to the world of Philadelphia. There are several folks with logs here. If you saved or can get the issues of Ships in Scale that contain the build by Kurt van Dam that is another resource.
-
jbshan got a reaction from RichieG in Mayflower by RichieG - Model Shipways MS2020
When I say 'keel' I mean the squarish shaped strip in the outside of the bottom. My kit of another ship had this as a piece to be added to the profile plate, center keel plate, I've seen it called lots of things. If you glue on that squarish strip all along the bottom, it becomes really difficult to then thin the center plate with sandpaper without also thinning the keel, which needs to remain square.
The rabbet is a thinner area on the center plate, where the edges and ends of the hull planking will seat, between the ends of the frames and the stem, keel and sternpost. Along the stem and bottom of the hull it is a notch. At the stern it is a large area with a concave curve along the forward edge and meets the sternpost and rear portion of the keel, at a matching depth to the keel and sternpost.
Here's a sketch I did for our club newsletter.
-
jbshan got a reaction from EJ_L in Philadelphia by Elijah - Model Shipways - 1:24 Scale - Continental Gunboat
Welcome to the world of Philadelphia. There are several folks with logs here. If you saved or can get the issues of Ships in Scale that contain the build by Kurt van Dam that is another resource.
-
jbshan got a reaction from Canute in US Brig Niagara by mikiek - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - First wooden ship build
No, Mike. Ideally they each had two hammocks so one could be washed and the other used. British practice of course, and I have doubts everybody slung a hammock every night purely from lack of room below decks. Many 'standard and customary' practices I doubt were used on these vessels.
-
jbshan got a reaction from Nirvana in US Brig Niagara by mikiek - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - First wooden ship build
Don, there were something like 130 on board, on the day.
20 guns, 5 per gun gets you to 100 really quickly.
-
jbshan got a reaction from Nirvana in US Brig Niagara by mikiek - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - First wooden ship build
They look pretty good, Mike. You can tie a couple of ropes across the ends to close up the troughs, and don't forget if needed you can do them at an angle for clearance.
-
jbshan got a reaction from Canute in US Brig Niagara by mikiek - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - First wooden ship build
Don, there were something like 130 on board, on the day.
20 guns, 5 per gun gets you to 100 really quickly.
-
jbshan got a reaction from bluenose2 in Deck planking
Maybe a bone-straight, grade A select 2 by 4. The grain might defeat you though. It isn't apparent, but the grain is coarse enough to drag your tools off course, and it will allow an edged tool like a plane or scraper to work in one direction and not the other. Get two planks glued down adjacent that the grain runs in the opposite direction and it might be interesting.
-
jbshan got a reaction from bluenose2 in Deck planking
Maple is indeed excellent, nice and light in color, but it doesn't sand or scrape down as fast as a softer wood. Surprise, surprise. Rock, hard, sugar, all the same tree.
You might look for birch, it's kind of halfway between the normal kit supplied stuff and a really hard wood like maple. They make a lot of furniture out of it, so it must be pretty durable.
Look out for the source; if the wood is sourced in China, it'll be a different wood than something of the same name here. It might be just as good, but be careful on mail order or otherwise not being able to put hands on it.
If it can be a little darker, you might seek out old rulers or other drawing/draughting supplies. They can be made from boxwood, and if you have the capacity to mill your own stock might be a source
-
jbshan got a reaction from bluenose2 in Deck planking
John, Les (in Canada) is probably only going to find poplar in the 'Quaking Aspen' variety, 'populus tremuloides', (although there is also a 'Canadensis' hybrid of 'black poplar'). This is a softer whitish hardwood with unobtrusive grain, used for many wood products, furniture, pulp for paper, toothpicks, chopsticks, match boxes, snowboards and electric guitars among others. The green tinged 'Poplar' is a higher quality wood and is from an unrelated genus. 'Tremuloides' is a boreal forest tree so northern and colder climates. It turns Rocky Mountain hillsides a bright yellow in the fall.
Our Emblem ®
