amateur

Try Billings "HMS Warrior". You need a new home after that (57.9")  
 
Jan

Hi apell,
 
That's a rather difficult questionto answer. As long as you don't know what type of ship the "vergulde otter" was, there is quite a range of ships that would fit the bill. Even a fluit would do. On one of his journeys to Australia, ABel Tasman had both a jacht, and a fluit to his disposal. Nothing wrong with the seaworthiness of a fluit.
 
 
In some other respect, it is an easy question to answer: no kits available for Dutch ships from that period. corel's Prins Willem is closest. A rather heavy armed merchant. As she is a rather large ship, i guess otter would have been smaller. , and less heavily armed that the Corel-version of the PW (which overgunned by any standard btw).prins Willem is a 1651-ship, he kit is based on a contemporary model.
 
Other kits are ships of an earlier period (eg half moon, also by Corel, and a very nice version by Billing boats). Theseare ships of around 1600, so way too early for you.
 
That's the kits available. For the drawings, the ones with the book describedabove are top.youcould also check the internet. There are some nice drawings available on a university site, for which I always forget the name. Something with naut arch and tamu(?), I'llcheck. Those give the reconstruction of a ship as described by a famous Dutch writer of the period (nicolaes Witsen.)
 
Again, some more info onthe ship would be usefull....
 
Jan

Crackers was quicker
 
Btw Derflinger is a very, very bad reconstruction of a Dutch fluit....
Al,ost correct with respect tothesite: http://nautarch.tamu.edu
The exact link that takes you to the drawings:
http://nautarch.tamu.edu/shiplab/AbHoving.htm
 
Jan

Hi apell,
 
That's a rather difficult questionto answer. As long as you don't know what type of ship the "vergulde otter" was, there is quite a range of ships that would fit the bill. Even a fluit would do. On one of his journeys to Australia, ABel Tasman had both a jacht, and a fluit to his disposal. Nothing wrong with the seaworthiness of a fluit.
 
 
In some other respect, it is an easy question to answer: no kits available for Dutch ships from that period. corel's Prins Willem is closest. A rather heavy armed merchant. As she is a rather large ship, i guess otter would have been smaller. , and less heavily armed that the Corel-version of the PW (which overgunned by any standard btw).prins Willem is a 1651-ship, he kit is based on a contemporary model.
 
Other kits are ships of an earlier period (eg half moon, also by Corel, and a very nice version by Billing boats). Theseare ships of around 1600, so way too early for you.
 
That's the kits available. For the drawings, the ones with the book describedabove are top.youcould also check the internet. There are some nice drawings available on a university site, for which I always forget the name. Something with naut arch and tamu(?), I'llcheck. Those give the reconstruction of a ship as described by a famous Dutch writer of the period (nicolaes Witsen.)
 
Again, some more info onthe ship would be usefull....
 
Jan

Hi apell,
 
That's a rather difficult questionto answer. As long as you don't know what type of ship the "vergulde otter" was, there is quite a range of ships that would fit the bill. Even a fluit would do. On one of his journeys to Australia, ABel Tasman had both a jacht, and a fluit to his disposal. Nothing wrong with the seaworthiness of a fluit.
 
 
In some other respect, it is an easy question to answer: no kits available for Dutch ships from that period. corel's Prins Willem is closest. A rather heavy armed merchant. As she is a rather large ship, i guess otter would have been smaller. , and less heavily armed that the Corel-version of the PW (which overgunned by any standard btw).prins Willem is a 1651-ship, he kit is based on a contemporary model.
 
Other kits are ships of an earlier period (eg half moon, also by Corel, and a very nice version by Billing boats). Theseare ships of around 1600, so way too early for you.
 
That's the kits available. For the drawings, the ones with the book describedabove are top.youcould also check the internet. There are some nice drawings available on a university site, for which I always forget the name. Something with naut arch and tamu(?), I'llcheck. Those give the reconstruction of a ship as described by a famous Dutch writer of the period (nicolaes Witsen.)
 
Again, some more info onthe ship would be usefull....
 
Jan

Crackers was quicker
 
Btw Derflinger is a very, very bad reconstruction of a Dutch fluit....
Al,ost correct with respect tothesite: http://nautarch.tamu.edu
The exact link that takes you to the drawings:
http://nautarch.tamu.edu/shiplab/AbHoving.htm
 
Jan

Crackers was quicker
 
Btw Derflinger is a very, very bad reconstruction of a Dutch fluit....
Al,ost correct with respect tothesite: http://nautarch.tamu.edu
The exact link that takes you to the drawings:
http://nautarch.tamu.edu/shiplab/AbHoving.htm
 
Jan

Even better: become a grown-up and never use inches again 
 
Jan

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 120 – Main Deck Cabin 2
 
Work on the deck cabin continued.  In the first picture the starboard side has been installed and the forward bulkhead is in the process.
 

 
All the bulkheads were made to fit into the rabbet on the coaming.  In the next picture, both end bulkheads are in place and the framing for the port side is being installed.
 

 
Pine strips with wedges were used along the floor to hold the studs against the coaming at the bottom.  The reinforcing pine batten is still pasted in place.  This side of the structure will be left open for visibility into the framing below.
 
In the next picture the pine batten has been removed and masking tape has been placed on the deck framing to prevent small pieces from dropping through.  These can now be very difficult to extract.  The first of the rounded up roof rafters are being fitted.
 

 
In the next picture these have been installed.  A number of them have been fitted with hanging knees to provide some wind bracing.  This structure had to be quite strong.
 

 
In the next picture the masking tape has been removed and the tops of the end bulkheads trimmed out in readiness for the roof planking.
 

 
The next picture shows the initial strake of 3” x 7” roof planking being aligned against a straightedge and pinned in place.
 

 
There is a strake with a water stop to be fitted outside of this one, but I wanted to paint that first and use the next inner strakes for alignment.  The next picture shows that outer strake being fitted against the two initially installed planks.
 

 
In the next picture the planking has progressed almost to the centerline.
 

 
The last picture shows the finished roof.
 

 
The ends of the planks have been sanded square and notches cut through the water stop for the two transverse skid beams that will cross the roof.  The roof has been coated with acrylic sanding sealer, sanded smooth and painted with the same color blue as the waterways.  The paint is acrylic.
 
The next task is to construct the coach – the entrance to the cabin deck.
 
Ed

Ok here we go.
 
When cutting a brass rod with a sharp knife a burr is created, I use this both to my advantage and at one point it needs to be removed (otherwise you'll have trouble inserting the bolt in the predrilled hole. Here are the steps involved:
 
1. This is the rod after the last bolt was cut
2. The burr is removed using a small steel ruler
3. A new diagonal burr is created to have the bolt firmly set in the predrilled hole ( I use bot 0,5 mm brass rod and a 0,5 mm steel drill to drill the holes, without the diagonal burr the fit is a bit loose)
4. Cutting off the bolt creates a burr this is the dome of the bolt
 

 
Tools needed (I won't cover the use of Liver of Sulphur which I use to blacken the bolts after they are in place):
 

 
Step 1 This is the rod after the last bolt was cut
 

 
Step 2 The burr is removed using a small steel ruler
 

 
Step 3 A new diagonal burr is created by rolling a sharp blade overt he rod to have the bolt firmly set in the predrilled hole
 

 

 
Step 4 Cutting off the bolt creates a burr this is the dome of the bolt
 

 

 

 
 
I use a brass rod with a small hole in the point to push the bolt into place leaving the dome of the bolt proud to the surface. When the are all done I treat them with liver of sulphur to blacken them.
 

 
The end result (it's hard to capture but each bolt has a nice subtle dome):
 

 

 
Remco
 

Thanks Greg.
 
The first pieces of the frames have been cut. I've made all the Floors first, as they are the thickest at 10 (scale) inches thick. If I run out of Pear before the new stock arrives I'll be able to run the remainder of my thicker stuff, including the leftover from the 10", through my Thickness Sander to get the thinner Futtocks and Toptimbers.
 
The Port side of this Cross-section will be fully planked inside and out as was the full model. I'm using simple scarph joints on the planked side - the open side will have Chocks between all the futtocks.
 
Note that these pieces are virtually straight off the scroll saw - there's a bit of finessing to be done yet. Every 2nd frame has a Floor, so only half of them are in these pics. Nothing has been glued in yet :
 

 

 
  Danny

But still enough space to get all your models under the roof?
 
Jan

Another city? Away from the Maas??
How are you going to survive???
 
Although, I see an advantage: Aggies maidentrip will be on the Rottemeren, just around the corner
 
Jan

But still enough space to get all your models under the roof?
 
Jan

Another city? Away from the Maas??
How are you going to survive???
 
Although, I see an advantage: Aggies maidentrip will be on the Rottemeren, just around the corner
 
Jan

But still enough space to get all your models under the roof?
 
Jan

Another city? Away from the Maas??
How are you going to survive???
 
Although, I see an advantage: Aggies maidentrip will be on the Rottemeren, just around the corner
 
Jan

Another city? Away from the Maas??
How are you going to survive???
 
Although, I see an advantage: Aggies maidentrip will be on the Rottemeren, just around the corner
 
Jan

Another city? Away from the Maas??
How are you going to survive???
 
Although, I see an advantage: Aggies maidentrip will be on the Rottemeren, just around the corner
 
Jan

Greg, Nigel, Janos and Albert, thank you very much for your kind words. I´m very happy that you like my work .
I finished the gallery windows.

Thanks everyone for the likes, it very much appreciated.
 
Thought it's about time for an update.  Have been busy with other things besides ship building but dit spend some good quality time in the shipyard.  Still busy with the gun tackle, which is going very slow due to the size of the pulleys.  In retrospect I should have made them 5 mm long instead of the 3.5 or so.  
Am still thinking about redoing them but now that I have put the brass wire braces on eight of them I may just stick it out.  Perhaps a few that are really too small to handle but we'll see how it goes. 
 
So far I guess that it takes me about 4 to 5 hours per cannon to make the hardware but not including the actual fastening the tackle to the ship and coiling the ropes.  
 
I decided to make the pulley strops from brass wire instead of thread.  It's a little more difficult but it allows me to make the strop, eyelet and hook for the single sheaf pulleys from one piece of brass wire.  The double sheaf pulleys are easier because they don't need the eyelet on one end.
 
Below are a few pics with explanations for my own records.  Years from now I like to know how I did things.  I did improve on them as time went by but that'll also be explained with the pics.   
 

This shows the method of making the eyelet on the single sheaf pulley strop.  A piece of brass rod winding the brass wire around it one turn.  I developed a simpler method the next day.  That'll be shown in tomorrow's post.
 

This shows a piece of 0.3 mm brass wire being wrapped around the pulley block.  I had to keep the eyelet from unwinding by pinning it with a sewing pin.  This too I fixed the next day by spot-soldering the eyelet.  By twisting the hook-end the tension tended to untwist it.
 

I tried to use only one twist on the hook-end to reduce extra bulk with too much of a brass lump.  One end will be cut off with nail clippers and the other end is bent into a hook.
 

This shows the completed strop with an eyelet on one end for the pull rope and the other end with a hook to attach the pulley to the deck or bulwark.  The rope trough the eyelet is now ready to be spliced.
 

How to splice scale rope fro rather thin cords.  I cut short pieces of very thin sowing thread and took it apart into its three single threads.  I removed the cotton parts to get to the nylon or Dacron threads.  I now had very fine but strong threads to use as splice material.  It looks thin here but it's about 3 X as thick as a human hair but a lot stronger.  It really blended into the "rope" to make it look like a real splice.  I'm happy with the result and simple method.
 

This shows the splicing procedure being started.  I made a single overhand knot with the thin thread just behind the eyelet.  From there I continued making single knots, alternating from one side then to the opposite side  with about 10 knots.  I finished it of with a good dab of nail polish that i squeezed into the "splice" with my fingers.
 

This shows the completed splice and completed pulley block.  The only thing left is the blackening, which will be done after all the pulleys are completed.
 

This shows the double sheaf pulley block with it's strop installed.  
 
Cheers,

Sorry for the long wait, 'life' got in the way....
 
Dave, the wood will darken over time, I like the color of free boxwood too.
Greg, the thought crossed my mind :-)
 
The new pumpwell is installed and the next set of beams too. A bit tricky as they are curved in two ways. 
 

 

 

 
Remco

Yes, I do. But he used staples, as he had to remove them after the glue dried. (As far as i remember)
 
Jan

Never seen nor heard anyone using these things.
Most people want their planking without nails, And to my experience, the nailing isn't by far the most timeconsuming part of planking, so....
Jan

Never seen nor heard anyone using these things.
Most people want their planking without nails, And to my experience, the nailing isn't by far the most timeconsuming part of planking, so....
Jan