Cabbie

Hello, Cabbie.
You're doing exactly same progress I'm doing. Here is what I'm understanding.
 
 

(All of these pictures are from this article by Toni.)
 
I did same thing like the mortise on stem. I hope it is correct.

Still can't see why they want them, card details name and address seems to be good enough anywhere else.
They will have my money, why does a Spanish bureaucracy need passport/id numbers.
Maybe in your case collecting an insurance payout is fair enough, but i would be sending a small
amount of money in. Wouldn't be getting mine anyway, not going to buy anymore AL kits.
Hooroo Chris

Local retailers, or other online retailers, should have better prices for you than buying direct. AL will put the "suggested retail prices" on their site, which is rarely what retailers sell at. Wait until the pipeline is filled again and I am sure you will be pleasantly surprised. 

Just looking through the new site and in order to create an account or use the instant checkout
you have to give them your Id or Passport number.
To me that sounds a bit strange.
https://artesanialatina.net/en/autenticacion?back=my-account

Well done! This is a great kit. You are really doing a great job.  You are proving that good model building is 90% attitude, 20% tools and 10% math skills.

Hello Neddie just came across your log, your boat is looking very good indeed.
I think the first lesson to be learnt is "keep going", paying off for you.
As far as tools goes i use one of these.
Couldn't do without it, no quite PC for some but with the disposable blades, which last a fair while,
it makes a lot of things easier to do. I adjust the blade by tapping with a hammer down near the blade.
Cheers Chris

Thanks RussR, you've inspired me to another post - made a big jump in progress, and been thoroughly enjoyed it.  Deck completed, and fitted, in the end a lot of filing was important to make it fit the whales reasonably closely.
 

 
Top of the mast was interesting - managed to make too wide a gap for the pulleys, so there are two spacers sliced from an applicator pipe from aerosol can to keep them roughly central (and the rod to hold them is a bit of paper clip!)
 

 
 
These were fun to do, but not when I realised only 6 are needed! (8 shown on kit box.. 6in plans)
 

 
And for you RussR, the bodged tools made out of scraps continue, with this. thin stick is at 3 degrees to help drill the mast step, and the pencil is for the waterline..
 

 
And now for the rigging, time to review some more info on this site
 

Btw, thanks to Dan at Hobbies.co.uk.  few wood supplies in the kit were short and he sorted extra within a week

You are a fine example, one doesn't have to have a lot of fancy tools to build an impressive model. 
One only needs a strong desire and determination to succeed.
I look forward to witness your progress. 
Keep up the good work.
RussR                                                                                                                                                                                                    

So a bit of a jump in progress with the final layer of planks fitted.  Managed to carve a rabet in the bow and stern veneer, which seemed to work well (although done v v carefully):
 

And final planks.  I had a real problem tapering the planks evenly (working to measures at each bulkhead point), and ended up with big gaps, so decided to do the top planks without tapering, and then taper the others.  Its only the top ones varnished with the hull base black, so worked for me....

so before and after a bit of filling gaps and sanding:
 

HAving had a bit of a struggle with the first two layers of planks, rather enjoyed the final one!
 

So good development recently.  First layer of planking done and filled:
 

With start of second layer of planking. Started using CA glue for this (seemed to work with the bit of filler, whereas clean wood to wood wasn't good)

SEcond layer of planks in place - didn't bother with regular tapering, or much neatness, given it's just to be filled and covered again...)
 

After filling and flatting:

only just added a rabbit to the bow, which I think will work okay. Would have been v tricky to just position at start of first planks

But the angle the planks meet the stern post is so fine, a rabit doesn't really work.  Not sure what the plan is here, probalby sand down planking at the stern so the third layer almost flush

Now the pressure of the final planks that can't just be lashed with filler! 
 
 
 

Frame Build and The Plankening, Part 1
 
Having read through some of the included instructions (yeah, I know..) and other build threads on this forum I decided that, as a complete beginner, the best thing that I could do with the instructions was to ignore a section of them (yeah, I know..). This kit seems to want the user to build up the hull planking in an unusual way, its probably more beginner friendly but I want to learn more planking skills for future kits so Im going to do my best to plank he hull in a more 'traditional' manner. Anticipating a few mistakes along the way I ordered some extra planking.
 
As you would expect the first thing to do was to build up the hull frame. The bulkheads came away from the sprues easily enough and I only needed to do a bit of sanding to get everything to fit together straight and true. Off to a reasonably competent start at least.
 

 
At the bow of the boat this kit included a couple of pieces to be glued perpendicular to and ahead of the foremost 2 bulkheads. Looks like the purpose of these pieces is to provide a bit more support and gluing surface to planks as they bend around to the front of the bow. As I was sanding the rest of the bulkheads to fit the bend of the planks I had to remove a lot of material here to get these pieces to fit correctly. It was hard to keep both peices uniform and I think if I were to re-do this kit I would subsitiute these pieces for some balsa wood blocks.
 

 
Once I started to fit the planks I decided to work evenly upwards from the keel and downwards from the top (?) towards the middle of the bulkheads. I was able to fit full plank lengths, trimming the planks down to about half of their origional width at the bow and stern. Once the top couple of planks had been added there was a supprising amount of strength to the frame, certanly enough to withstand driving a few pins in to hold the planks while the superglue did its thing. One thing that I did notice was that the second bulkhead from the stern seemed to be too greatly recessed at the top of the boat. If I let the planks lie naturally this bulkhead did not seem to offer the planks any support and I was worried that if I sanded away enough material from the other bulkheads to bring it into line then I would mess up the lines of the hull. Everything seemed go fine with the topmost planks missing that bulkhead anyway.
 

 
One thing I did have trouble with was figuring out the best way to cut my planks. Im sure that this isnt the neatest way but for this build Ive settled on marking out the line I want to cut in pencil, clamping a metal ruler to the line, and then cutting with a scalpel using many passes and a light pressure.
 

 
Edited for crimes against english
 

Hey Folks,
 
A few years ago I bought a Lady Nelson Cutter kit, I had a brilliant time planning out the kit and building the model right up until I got to the first layer of hull planking. I tried to only use the included instructions as a guide to planking and, predictably, completely messed it up. By the time I had removed and re-applied the planking a couple of times the front few bulkheds were a right mess, I got somewhat frustrated with my lack of understanding and packed the kit away.
 
Fast forward a few years and a couple of months into lockdown after browsing this forum (and learning a good bit from the build threads) I decided to have another go. I decided that the AL beginner rated plank on frame kits would be a good place to start. They looked a little faster to build than the Lady Nelson kit and my plan is to build through a few 'simple' models and work my way upwards in complexity.
 
As Im writing this Im a month into the build so I think I can say with a farly high degree of confidence that this will not be the best build that you will glance at today. If you want to read about someone making a better fist of things with this kit I highly recommend the build by JMaitri
 
The AL kit comes pretty well packaged in a reasonably small box, included is a small pamphlet style instruction book with colour pictures as well as a large sheet of plans with details of the rigging and a parts list. The wood its self all seems to be of good quality to my beginner eye, the softwood planking had a few splinters here and there but everything else was straight and true. The kit did have a couple of issues that I dont think were user error but there were no missing parts or warped keel which was a great start
 

 

Well it sure isn't my first time.  LOL.

Oh well mark there is always a first time for everyone.😉

Thanks Chris 
 
I'll check what other sections are provided in the kit (haven't had a chance yet). It will tolerate sanding back a bit more I think, and then perhaps use a bit of filler if necessary. 

You should have i think your keel and stem timbers already shaped in the kit.
Maybe you can use them to check the shape of the bow or find a scrap bit of ply to mark the shape on
and cut it out to use as a template.

Mine was done this way as well, but it was mostly flat. Hard to say what is needed until you start to fair the hull.
What you could do is screw it on dry and then see if there is enough material available for you to sand it flat.
If not, then  glue it on and fill with car filling bog or builders bog. it was placed centrally and flush with the bulkheads at the top.
 
Cheers Chris
 

Thanks Matrim. As I mentioned the bow filler was markedly convex on both sides. This was mostly on the upper half of the piece and I would have sanded that back by at least 3mm to create a flat surface that can be glued. If I sand more off more it will start to reduce the width of the piece at the top. So far I have sanded back without effecting the width at all.

Nice start and the bulkheads look nice and solid. That filler piece certainly looks 'unusually shaped' which makes me wonder..
 
It 'might' be that intend to allow you to sand back to fit. But that seems like to much effort for a kit so must be wrong. From what I can see the piece looks the right size to fit on the front but where then would the bow of the ship go?? Do the instructions have any shape/positioning comments? On most kits I have seen (not AL admittedly) the bow is a part of the backbone structure of the ship and there are two filler pieces that go either side.
 
Hopefully another Artenesia builder can make a comment as that does not seem right. Though it might be a peculiarity of the ship itself.

Rails done.  I like how it turned out running them flush to the stern.  
Helms battens on the deck.
New tiller crafted.  Just need to trim the end once the rudder is on to get a good fit 
Dont like the look of the wire traveler that goes mid-deck.  Going to see if I can find a sample of something crafted where I could maybe use a painted dowel the same thickness. More to research.
Working on the caronade next.  Need to decide if I'm going to replace the metal firing quin. Painted the canon and hinge (i like the polished brass look for these smaller guns - takes me back to my navy days polishing vertigre off brassworks with the fruit punch they served in the mess hall!)

Nice diagram Craig but I haven't got a clue what you are suggesting.
BUT no need to explain, you don't have enough time for me.
On the first image they don't show the line on the other side of the sail.
If it was done as in the Mermaid drawing there would need to
worry about it for tacking?
Chris

No problem, when you haul the flag up one side of the line (the one you pulled on) will be under tension. If the side under tension presses on the sail it will deform the sail or chafe or both. In the Mermaid example, if you hauled the flag up the starboard side of the sail the line to port would be the line under tension but it would be clear of the sail. However if you tacked the sail would then press against it.
 
Meanwhile, my diagram only shows that when the boom is swung out the point where the line is tied off is still accessible from the deck. If as I suggested above, it was tied off above the mainsheet you would have to crawl out the boom to reach it.

Nice diagram Craig but I haven't got a clue what you are suggesting.
BUT no need to explain, you don't have enough time for me.
On the first image they don't show the line on the other side of the sail.
If it was done as in the Mermaid drawing there would need to
worry about it for tacking?
Chris

Thanks John looks like its a 2 part challenge now, making them and then attaching to the deck.
BTW i am enjoying looking at these images on the new 4k computer screen, rally brings out the detail.
And did you see this topic, should be easy for a man of your talents.
Hooroo Chris