Landlocked123

Beautiful work.  It’s a real shame you can’t share with us how you accomplish it.

Druxey,
 
You’re right and I have deleted the post.  John
 
ps. But I would still really like to know how he cut those dovetails 🤔

Amalio - thank you for sharing how you prepare your wood.  I, like I’m sure many others, find your insights valuable.
 
Best regards,
John

Beautiful work.  It’s a real shame you can’t share with us how you accomplish it.

Amazing work!  I would love to hear how you built the doors with the individual panes.  Thanks.
 
Best,
John

Yet again, this is great and best of all it’s common sense.  While I realize we won’t need to do this for the Longboat or Winnie, it’s a technique we can use for planking anything.  It’s yet another example of how you are educating an entire generation of model ship builders.  Thanks again.  Best, John

Hi Guys,
 
Well I finally got my act together and made some thimbles using Chuck's techniques shown on the the Cheerful build log. Like so many other things in this avocation, it is both easier and harder than it seems.
 
Once I got the "touch" and made the appropriate sized blunt points to turn the collar it was easy to knock out bunches of them. The smallest thimble is made from Albion 1.5 mm thin walled brass tube. Chuck made the point that this stuff is very soft and easy to cut (there's a link to a video on the Cheerful log). This actually gave me more trouble than any other aspect of making these. I knew I was working with metal and it took a long time before I found out just how much of a soft touch it took. I was using so much pressure that not only did I cut the tube, but I scored the brass rod I had inserted into the tube. With the K&S I had on hand, I didn't have much luck rolling against the exacto blade, so I used a jeweler's saw to cut the blanks.
 
I made two blunt points of different sizes to roll the collars out of some steel common nails. I cut off the heads, chucked them into my drill press, used a file to create a rounded cone, and polished with some sand paper. A few light taps on the mandrel and done.
 
Best,
John
 
Ps. This was my first shot at seizing the eyes and I used some some of #8 synthetic fly tying thread. Neither CA or diluted PVA would stick to it and the clove hitches I used wouldn't hold. Next time around I used some #8 Unithread.....much better. J.
 

 

Jud,
 
That sounds like the kind of good advice one can't find other than on MSW. Thanks
 
Best,
John

Hi Charlie,
 
The best coppering job I've ever seen was on Sal D's Syren which won 1st Place in last year's Northeast Joint Model Clubs show in New London, CT. He details how he did it on his build log on MSW (starting with post #126). I've attached the link below, I pretty sure Sal won't mind.
 
Best,
John
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8410-us-brig-syren-by-sald-%E2%80%93-finished-316-scale/page-7

Hi Diwang, 
I'm just a novice.
 
However, I know that Nic is a master builder with a special expertise in rigging. He also runs one of, if not the best, manufacturers of extremely high quality model ship kits in the world. Felted or not, there were about 14 people in the round table with me, and he definitely showed that there was some kind of orientation to the fibers he was using and it was a "best practice" to sandwich the sheets 90 degrees to each other.
 
I also agree with Brian, if you have a "practicum" on sail making, why not share it with all of us?
 
John

Hi Jim,
 
You're Orrery is beautiful. Do you know if anyone will be selling it as a kit? Thanks.
 
Best,
John

Hi Jim,
 
I think the whole thing is very cool and it definitely has a real 19th century feel to it.
 
If is not too crass, may I ask what you expect will be the final cost?
 
Thanks,
John

Hi- 
I recently bought the Swann-Morton scalpel package on Amazon (below).  I received 100 no. 11 blades, a blade remover, a handle, and most importantly, needle pliers (similar to a hemostat) for handling the insertion of the blades.  I’m quite happy with the purchase.
 
Best, 
John
 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DNW2D9S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hi Guys,
 
Well I finally got my act together and made some thimbles using Chuck's techniques shown on the the Cheerful build log. Like so many other things in this avocation, it is both easier and harder than it seems.
 
Once I got the "touch" and made the appropriate sized blunt points to turn the collar it was easy to knock out bunches of them. The smallest thimble is made from Albion 1.5 mm thin walled brass tube. Chuck made the point that this stuff is very soft and easy to cut (there's a link to a video on the Cheerful log). This actually gave me more trouble than any other aspect of making these. I knew I was working with metal and it took a long time before I found out just how much of a soft touch it took. I was using so much pressure that not only did I cut the tube, but I scored the brass rod I had inserted into the tube. With the K&S I had on hand, I didn't have much luck rolling against the exacto blade, so I used a jeweler's saw to cut the blanks.
 
I made two blunt points of different sizes to roll the collars out of some steel common nails. I cut off the heads, chucked them into my drill press, used a file to create a rounded cone, and polished with some sand paper. A few light taps on the mandrel and done.
 
Best,
John
 
Ps. This was my first shot at seizing the eyes and I used some some of #8 synthetic fly tying thread. Neither CA or diluted PVA would stick to it and the clove hitches I used wouldn't hold. Next time around I used some #8 Unithread.....much better. J.
 

 

Hi Charlie,
 
The best coppering job I've ever seen was on Sal D's Syren which won 1st Place in last year's Northeast Joint Model Clubs show in New London, CT. He details how he did it on his build log on MSW (starting with post #126). I've attached the link below, I pretty sure Sal won't mind.
 
Best,
John
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8410-us-brig-syren-by-sald-%E2%80%93-finished-316-scale/page-7

Jack- I’m so sorry to hear about your brother and I hope his remaining days are spent pain free and in the warmth of love from you and the rest of his family.
 
Best,
John

24 carat real gold leaf foil. I bought all the tools, sizing, and leaf about 20 years ago and this seems like the perfect application. J..

While waiting for my barge kit, I ordered two sets of the boxwood carvings to practice on and I certainly needed practice. Of the 4 Queen Anne monograms, I murdered three before I finally got a feel for what I was doing. The fourth turned out rather well.  The carvings for port and starboard where a little tricky but between the two sets I have a set for the barge.  I took photos of my trials and tribulations.  I am also planning on covering all the moldings with real gold leaf and I plan on documenting that process as well.  With a little luck, I hope to put up a “mini” build log for the entire process. It’s been pretty challenging, but I’ve begun to develop a whole new skill set.  Something which drew me to model ship building in the first place.  I’ve posted a photo of the monogram below.
 
Best,
John
 

Just beautiful!!! John

And don't forget the sea gulls and what they do!

Hi Michael,
 
The owner of this ship was extremely fortunate to have found you the restoration.  Not only for the he amazing work but also for this wonderful build log which walks through and details the process. Very well done.
 
Best,
John

Just beautiful!!! John

I bought the Occre kit from Ages of Sail today here in the States...should arrive next week.  It is a retirement gift to myself and I plan to work on it beginning later this year.  It appears to be a good buy.  I have been fascinated by HMS Terror and HMS Erebus since doing a report on them back in junior high school in the early 70's.  And now I have a kit on the way to my house.  None of this would have been possible without you and your simply amazing work.  Thank you so, so much.  I'm sure I will get a lot of enjoyment from this.

Just beautiful!!! John

Just beautiful!!! John