zoly99sask

Hi Guys,
 
I'm back, I haven't been around lately for several reasons, the main reason being that through my own stupidity my Laptop crashed, I wont go into detail but suffice to say it stopped working.
 
Through the help of several friends I am now back on line and raring to go, I have at this stage got to thank Carl ( cog ) for all his help and assistance, it's down to you that I'm back ( you can get him later guys ). A big THANK YOU Carl, your a diamond.
 
A lot of progress has been made since my last post so I will be doing a few post in succession to try and catch up.
 
 
The hull with the mast a yard to the front, these were quite simple to build due mainly to there being no fiddly bits, all that I changed were the pulley wheels in the masthead,
 
The Hull with Mast and Yard in the fore.

 
The Mast Head, with the replaced pulleys.

 
This is the main fixing point for the Yard, 3mm Morope seized on with .75mm black thread.

 
                                                                       Now for some Sail Making
 
The sail is made from a sheet of kit supplied Calico, this was first washed and ironed then cut diagonally from corner to corner, then I stained one piece with 4 teabags in boiling water, this was left for several hours until it got to the colour I wanted. When dry it was ironed again the edges were brushed with diluted PVA.
The Bolt-rope was made from 1mm Caldercraft rope, the lengths were measured and Becket's tied in.
the Bolt-rope was laid on the edge of the sail and the edge was then folded over the rope and again given a coat of PVA.
 

 
The bolt-rope is now fitted and the PVA has dried.

 
One of the three Becket's

 
The sail has now been marked up with pencil and is now ready to go to the seamstress.

 
The seamstress has done her job and a nice job at that. ( think I'll keep her on ).

 
Next up was to stretch the sail and fix it to the yard. The Becket's were tied using .5mm black thread. I then started to stitch fixing loops onto the sail.

 
With all the loops stitched on the sail was bent to the yard using .75mm black thread. The sail has now been completely bent to the mast and the Reev's also attached.

 
The completed sail.

 
That's it for now guys, a further update will follow very shortly.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Greg and Druxey - many thanks!  I'm working on the 'steady' part.  The ventilation holes were fun.   I don't get to spend much time in the workshop, but get to spend a fair amount of time out of it planning what I will do when I finally get there, so I had plenty of time to map out the pattern. 
 
Well and shot locker almost done.  I will add the very top strip when the lower deck beams are installed, and I have some great photo etch hinges to add.  They were the subject of a workshop on photo etching done by one of the extremely gifted Hampton Roads Model Ship Society members (thanks Gene!).
 
I've begun work on the main deck beams.
 
Dave

thanks Monsieur Z.

Well, it is FAR from perfect but....
 Aside from a few gaps here and there, the hull is completed and closed up. What a ride and learning curse!!!
Lessons:
1. fairing is important, too much messed your planking
2. Laying out the wales perfectly (critical step). I went too high on the stern of the ship which resulted in difficulty with dividing and laying the first few planks
3. Blending and using stealer properly. On this one, I think it will come with experience.
 
The below pictures are without any sanding, wood filler. Just raw 'Kindergartener' work.
The starboard side is going to need some loving.

Now that is looking excellent

Great planking job, inside and out

Wow Ian she looks great, I really like that matt black and the pear floor is sweet . Nice work!

Thanks Don and everyone for following and for the likes. Much appreciated.
 
The hull has been painted with a matt black acrylic and the pear wood deck is installed. It's starting to look like an evil Viking ship. .
​




 
Best, Ian

Thanks Jay. I am following your lead on this model as yours came out so well. As I have mentioned in previous posts, I am modeling the 1812 configuration as much as I can. I am using these conclusions from the Naval historical command regarding port lids:
 
 In conclusion, in compliance with the mission of the Naval History & Heritage Command Detachment Boston which includes in part, “ensur[ing] material compliance and documentation with the historic requirements of [Constitution], maintaining [the ship] as close to its 1812 configuration as possible,” 19 [emphasis added by author] the gun port lids of USS Constitution should be as follows:
1. Adapt the half ports presently found on Constitution:
A. Retrofit the upper half port so that the lid is completely removable, but so
that it can be secured in the port with bolts (see suggested illustration below, showing a type of port lid bolt)20 
B. Retrofit the lower half port lid so that the lid drops to 90° and projects outward from the hull of the ship
Substitute two single gun port doors on each of the two forward-most ports in the bows of Constitution
Retrofit the two aftermost ports, at the captain’s great/forward cabin with canvas, as per the sail plans and artwork depicting such configurations on Constitution, Congress, and President 
As you can see, the two forward most ports had single doors according to this research, so that is what I built. I have also added the canvas covers on the rear ports. If you look close you can see that there are no top lids on the open gun ports, as these would have been removed.

Since you are working on the hammock netting, here are two US Navy plans for the frame forgings.
 
Jon
013-09-2009 - Forged Hammock Net Frame.pdf
19043001 - Hammock Stowagw Forgings.pdf

Here's a link to my AVS log.  I scratch-built a stove for the model.  You can use whatever you like: text and/or photos.
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10979-armed-virginia-sloop-patrick-henry-by-docblake-lauck-street-shipyard-scale-132-pof-admiralty-style/page-5

Dave, that series of photos for a stove you built are TERRIFIC and they will really add to my descriptive work. Thanks for that.
 
I am over the moon with members of MSW that I sought permission from to use their photos who have ALL been so cooperative. This 'little' exercise simply started off as a self-education process to help me better understand what it was I should be doing - and especially understanding - in constructing all the different aspects that go into building a ship. Before I knew what was happening, I found myself ploughing deeper and deeper through a myriad of posts on MSW. So, for example, it is a work that just does not explain what a cathead and cat-tail are but also explains a little about their history.
 
It is fun and hopefully will be a resource appearing on MSW  where everything is alphabetically listed. The problem is that I was a teacher of chemistry and my passion is in explaining things.
 
So ... this is a general plea ... if I write to you seeking permission ... please help me to help others by allowing me to use your ideas. I will not intentionally use your work without permission but there is always the danger of overlooking you (but I hope not).
 
Pete

Wow Don, that came out beautifully.  Very nice job!  Just out of curiosity, is that walnut or oak?  I'm assuming walnut but just curious.  

Thanks so much Dave and Mike.
 Mike the wood is walnut 1.5 mm x 5 mm

Wow, that is real good news. Not so surprising though as these kits are awesome. Will be looking forward to seeing more on this

Hi Don,
 
I like the dowel idea. That's an interesting, and simple, solution. Most 3D programs will allow this sort of hole through the entire assembly. 
 
Who do you think will be first to develop angled bulkheads in the bow and stern, like with proper plank on frame structures? 
 
Best Regards, 
 
Rick 

Hi Don, 
 
I was excited to hear that there will be a Canadian distributor for this line shortly. I am looking forward to seeing these models on shelves in stores in Canada. 
 
Best Regards, 
 
Rick 

Here is the start of the build:
 

 Pieces for the keel have been removed from billet and laying on plans. Notice how exact the plans are
 

 
Squaring of bulkheads, some very minor adjustments were required. Unlike other kits MarrisSella's bulkheads are not glued in place at this time. They are a tight fit, so are tapped into place and left at this point.
 

 
Installation of mast steps
 

 
 Here all bulkheads have been fitted and installed, no glue yet. The support dowels have been slid into place, there is a total of eight 14 mm walnut dowels. As far as I know this system is unique to MarrisStella, it adds considerable strentgth to the frame and also helps to properly align the bulkheads.
 Another check on the alignment of the bulkheads and glue will be brushed on to all joints.
 
 You may have noticed in the pictures the cloudy skies , well they since have parted and the sun is starting to shine so that means the shipyard will have to close down  .
 
See You All Later
 
 
 

Hi Mike, Thanks for your kind words and encouragement, the light wood on the deck was a bit of an experiment. If you look close you will see some narrow strips down the middle and again framing the main room those are maple, the rest is basswood. Not much difference in looks in the pictures but the maple does finish much nicer.
 Thanks for the links to your log I was just going through your log to plan my next steps so this really helps me out. I think those supports are a real good plan and I will be doing something similar on mine. The bitts I have heard you and Spyglass talk about and I am still trying to wrap my head around that, a little more studying and hopefully the light will come on.
 Thanks Again much appreciated

Hey Don, feel free at any time to ping me with any questions.  I'll definitely see your PMs if you want to do it through there (probably the easiest way to make sure that you get me quickly), otherwise I'll try to keep track of your log

Nice Don - that's a nice wood for the lower decks.  Is that maple or something similar?  I also blackened the bulkheads and other interior items.  Now that my hull is planked and the deck laid, I'd say it was probably overkill, but made me feel better.  I think it's probably most important for the stern and quarterbadges though, depending on how you do the windows if you want "depth."  
 
I also hear you on stalling before the "hard" parts, though after I end up completing them, I always think to myself, "that wasn't too bad!"  
 
Are you going to do the deck next?  If you do, a couple of things to note.  First, it's well worth considering adding midline supports for the plywood deck template.  It's a little tricky because of the various holes for the hatches, masts, etc., but you can see here how I added a few small supports which adds a great measure of support at the midline:
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7267-hms-pegasus-by-landlubber-mike-amativictory-models-scale-164/?p=243029
 
 
Second, while the kit is very close to the NMM plans, there is a slight difference in the kit's deck items to simplify construction.  I moved some of the hatches and deck items forward to better comport with the plans:
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7267-hms-pegasus-by-landlubber-mike-amativictory-models-scale-164/?p=248877
 
 
The one tricky thing if you decide to do that is that the aft hatch is too far back, and if you look at the NMM plans, the hatch should be more forward to where the bitts go through the hatch.  Also, if you are going for "accuracy," some of the bitts are the wrong size (the main topsail sheet bitts and jeer bitts) and the cross piece on the jeer bitts should face aft.  Take a look at my log here on how I approached that if you're considering going that route:
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7267-hms-pegasus-by-landlubber-mike-amativictory-models-scale-164/?p=258189
 
 
The only other thing I would suggest is that if you are cutting your own deck planking, you get a nice clean look if you butt the planks up against the hatches, rather than sit the hatches on the deck planking.  It's not really a huge deal in the grand scheme of things once the deck is finished with all the cannons and rigging, etc., but it is a cleaner look and technically more accurate if you are into such things.

Thanks Ian and Zoltan

Just finished up rigging the carronades on the port side and several on the starboard and thought I would share a couple of lessons I have learned in the process. One is to make sure the tackle lines are wet before adding them. This does two things: reduces the friction in the blocks while adjusting them and neutralizes the sizing in the rope and allows them to take a better set when dry.
Add the wet tackle rope to one side and adjust the slack out of the lines. Then align edge of sled to waterway edge and hold barrel for final adjustment of tackle line.
 

 
Next add second wet tackle line and adjust to final position while holding barrel and make sure both lines are tight. Then glue carronade wheels to deck and allow the CA to dry. Then lash tackle rope ends around hooks at the sled end tucking the rope down the inside of the hook to lay on the deck.
 

 
This is just a suggestion to not glue the large wood cleats in place until the tackle lines are added first.
 

 
Just six more carronades to rig and then to sort out the coils for the excess rope.
 
 

I assembled my keel clamp.  The first task was to drill the holes for the carriage bolts which form the pivot points.  They are 5/16", except for the keel clamp itself which has four 1/4" carriage bolts.  The two knuckles that form the 2 axes of rotation were glued and screwed together, and the lower axis piece was glued and screwed to the base.  All the parts were given 3 coats of water-based polyurethane.  There are washers between adjacent wooden parts and where the through star nuts tighten down.  I had most of the hardware on hand, but if you went to purchase it, it would be about $20 as I've built it.  If you substitute plain old metal thumb screws, the hardware should be under $5!
 
The clamp is very stable, even with a model in place due to the large base, but one might consider clamping it to the table top for safety.  It is a little top-heavy!

Thanks Zoltan, much appreciated