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Taffrail- it is a difficult task for me...

Continued.... This work also participated: "AC/DC", "Yes", Chris Rea and Ozzy Osbourne! Of course, as a musical accompaniment!

Don't even know what to say... Hands are buzzing from tension! No one hears this hum?

Thanks Don. It's 61 cm (24 inches) long and 14 cm (5.5 inches) at the beam. You haven't posted in a while, you must be working up a storm.
 
Regards, Ian

I agree with Joel (jbshan) that it would be unlikley you would be able to see the plugs in the  scale you are working.  Gunther's photos show a wide range of contrast, but in scale you are only looking at from about an inch away.  When looking at a 3/16 scale model from 3 feet away, you are looking from almost 200 scale feet away. 
 
    For those of you going to the NRG Conference in San Diego in October, look at the deck of SURPRISE or CALIFORNIAN from the upper deck of BERKELEY to gt a better perspective.
 
 

Hi everyone,
I've just finished planking the deck of my AVS in holly and I'd like to add tree nails next. I've researched the MSW forums for a deck planking / tree nailing primer and can't seem to find one beyond Ulises Victoria's excellent Simple Butt-Shift Deck Planking Guide.
 
What I'd like to know is, should I treat the finished deck with polyurethane (I've been using Danish Oil on the hull?)  and then drill and fill the tree nails? Or do I drill and fill the tree nails, then scrape/sand everything flat and smooth before applying oil? 
 
I haven't decided whether the tree nails will be drawplate-made wood, or wood glue / filler yet. I don't know if that makes a difference. I am curious if there is an accepted 'right way' to install tree nails on a deck. Any input, links, advice and pictures are welcome!
 
Thank you in advance!
Matthew

Wow, thank you for the LIKES and increasing number of viewers.
 
Mike, an appreciation from you is meaningful - thank you.
 
Joe, it is frustrating trying one thing after another and failing, isn't it ? <smile> Winning is easy - it's hard to  be a good looser.
 
Doc, Mark got it for you. I must have been misleading on the third video. I used the line out method and fan from the other section of the forum. I think it is clearly presented. I still have to expand my line out to include all areas of the hull.
 
Doc, I hadn't thought about a diagonal grain. That is however, the culprit! All my failures are diagonal. The clues, though obvious, didn't rise to my level of consciousness until you asked. You've got it .  .  .
 
Apropos of that, I did an additional bow area strake today. It is a long process so even one or two pieces is time consuming. First though, I experimented with the edge beveling process  by setting the table on my Byrnes saw at 75 degrees and with the wheel stationary, I moved the plank back and forth trying to achieve a uniform edge.
 

 
For me, edge bending remains a challenge. I wanted to bend over a slightly longer length than previously so I tried boiling the piece for about ten minutes then bringing the pan to my bench and rewetting a couple of times. Is ten minutes long enough? The wood mass is minimal .  .  .
 
I bent only one bow piece today. It matches the other side that was installed a couple of days ago.  Today, for some reason, bending was more difficult than previous pieces. Once bent,I used Chuck's heat gun for about ten minutes and because of the size of the bend I did it a second time. About an hour later I removed the piece and it had zero spring back. I've got to emphasize again, getting it bent was a challenge .  .  .  . I sure wish someone could point me in a better direction. I don't have enough wood to spile. Am I negligent for not getting more? Chris managed readily, but he is smarter than me.
 

 

 
By the way, to mitigate why I am having more issues than Chris, it is to a large extent due to my desire to have the strakes parallel the wales and keel rather than have an upsweep at the bow. Maybe that makes me a bad person .  .  .  . smile.
 
I continued the bow planking rearward in sections. I have separated the hull length into six sections so that I can have a staggered butt scenario resembling what Chuck did with CHEERFUL.
 

 

 

 
Not much to show for two days of five or six hours each is it? The brown shadow shows the extent of my abandoned initial attempt and then sanded off. One of the things that displeased me the most was black seams and seams that were not quite tight. This time around I am spending significant time to prep where each plank is about to go on the hull, no edge glue and a uniform edge bevel on each one.
 
I take heart with out mutual hero, Remco: "Treat each part as if it is a model on its own, you will finish more models in a day than others do in a lifetime."
 
Respectfully presented,
John Maguire
Seattle
 
 
 

Update - I fine tuned the fenders by tapering the lower ends & glued them in place. The tops will be trimmed off after the railings are in place - if I don`t break them off first. I then added the bolster for the hawse holes - another layer will be added when the cheek rails are fitted. I simulated the double doors at the bow by simply cutting into the planking with a chisel & added some hinges from my spare parts box. Then I put a coat of polyurethane on the hull below the upper wales. I think it may be a good time now to start working on the side decorations.
 

 

 

 
Mark

Wish to Thank you for sharing this wonderful build with us. Keep the post and pictures coming.

Hi Mates,
 
A lateral update – my usual posts - ha ha..
 
So, I decided to add some detailing to the galleries. The Vasa (based the on super detailed 1/10th) is certainly hard to grasp from a Corel kit.
 
PS: just a thought – Who really knows if the Vasa was as colorful and as highly detailed (art work) as is represented on the museum’s beautiful model.
The actual resurrection galleries, as an example, are very plain by comparison to the model (they appear to be rebuilt as well). So it appears that the goal of many kit/scratch builders is to try to emulate the model’s look. I, then added some detail bits as well.
 
My completed galleries before added details
 

 
Used some extra painted wood bits from the just completed railings. Purchased a necklace, and used the bits for the bobbinets (glue added so that beads would not fall off string when cut)

 
Received from Corel two new weather deck cannon opening trim rings

 
Here are some finished up shots. 

 
Now on to some added detail work for the bowsprit framing.
 
 
This 1/10th pic makes me very insecure Hmmm

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I thought it was time for another update. I intend to keep this log updated by several weeks up to once a month. My dutch log will be updated more frequently though, about daily as I make progress.
 
So, for the past weeks I have finished all the gunports of the lower deck and the upper deck. There were quite soem ports that needed rework after the intial cut out or where I sanded to hard in my enthousiasm .
A simple tool for checking that ports were level at both sides. After this tedious work I wanted a change of work so I started on the anchor 'betting'.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I do have a problem with the lid and the holes for the anchor cables. The drawings clearly show 3 holes whereas I think only 2 cables went down in the hul??? I leave it for now it will be sorted in due time.
 

 

 
I will now started work on the remaining parts of the lower deck, like gratings and down stairs. After that the deck planking I think and after that the insie hull planking up to the upper deck.
 
Will be continued.
 
Rgds Hans

Impressive work Hans, a real tribute to one of the most famous ships in the Dutch Navy. 
Don't fret too much about the English nomenclature for all the parts of the ship.  I'm also still learning but my excuse is that I am an airplane guy
 
Cheers,

After the deckclamps I build the 2 main decks
 
 







 
And here is the status per today:
 
I am working on the gunports now.
 




 

Congrats, Sean.   You and the Santa Maria deserve it for a model well done.

Thanks Ir3 and Mark, much appreciated.
 
  I took a Friday off and decided to hang in the shipyard most of the day, so got a fair amount done.
  
   First, I duplicated the cheeks and trailboards and finished the Starboard side.
 

 
   I then got to work on the main head rails.  A couple challenges here - obviously the port and starboard sides of the bow aren't exact, so I needed to measure the head rails to fit, rather than specific measurements.  In order to accomplish this, I installed the head beam first, so I had something to give me a frame of reference.  
 

   
    After thinning the head rails and tapering them as instructed, I encountered a problem at the fore deck of the ship along the rails. A gap.  
 

 
Now, I wasn't sure if I should taper the head rail, or if I should taper the ship.  My solution, was to add a little bit of filler, then sand it to fit nicely.
 

 
   Once each head rail was glued to the foredeck, I then glued it to the main beam.  
 

 
Finally, having those in place gave me a chance to shape and bend it slightly before gluing it to the out near my mascot.
 

 

Thanks for the likes and comments everyone, much appreciated. 
 
  Popeye - Critique or not, it's all welcome comments.  :-)   That's what MSW is for as far as I'm concerned!   I did in fact go down that route a bit, but didn't have a ton of luck with it. I tried sanding down the trailboards as much as possible, and the bolster is already about 1/16 - and any thinner just looked a bit unrealistic.  In the end, it worked - but was not as "clean" as using the single layer.  Could've been my stubby fingers. I probably would have had better luck there using boxwood instead of the basswood though, as obviously it thins out much nicer.  But then I'd have been faced with differing shades of wood and etching, etc.
 
  I think - were I to do it again - I would probably do a combination of making the cheeks themselves a little thicker than what came with the kit, then the trailboards and bolster thinner as well. 
 
- Bug

Wellp... 
 
Got first place at the County Fair.    
 

 
In all fairness (no pun intended), there weren't that many entries.  
 
 
- Bug

Middle gun-deck about to be (re)fitted!
 
The cannon rigging and most of the lower deck paraphernalia has now been completed. I say "most" because several items were missing or incomplete as regards the kit contents. The large fuse barrels just weren't in the kit, and the number of cannon balls (of both sizes) was grossly inadequate, as were the rings already mentioned. (More about my efforts to get them replaced later).
 
As there wasn't even room to place the two cannonball stands as the manual shows I have made do with just the one. It looks OK, whereas two of the same size (as specified in the manual) would have looked ridiculous - and I didn't have enough cannonballs to fill two stands anyway! Also not yet added are the cannon ramrods, cleaners etc., which can be added at anytime, and I'll almost certainly construct and position them all at the same time. Larger barrels and maybe other odds and sods I'll position when the middle deck (and its supports) are positioned.
 

 
The cannon by the way were fitted a la Cobr@, with pins through the wheel base into the deck (thanks Bob!). They at least won't be going anywhere. No room unfortunately for the bashed table and benches, although I will give some thought to other deck items which may have been present in the real thing when I can see how much room I have to play with - it seems there will be quite a lot.
 

 
Just some scratched paintwork on the lower inner hull to touch up, then the middle deck goes up!
 
You can imagine my dismay to discover no large fuse barrels present, and given the general lack of other items I "penned" a terse email to the kit suppliers Guinea Hobbies in Spain. Given the problems I had with them originally I wasn't too confident I'd even got a response, but perhaps because of my threat to get the "credit card people" on the case (always a good weapon), I was delighted to receive an email almost by return promising they had got onto the manufacturers and would be replacing the missing items within  7 days. We'll see!
 
Bryan
 
 
 
 

Decided i am going to give both of these builds to my grandson. Now they are finished i don't particularly want to keep one, mainly because the fun is in the build for me and once built i lose interest in some builds, and this is one of them
For some reason the grandson doesn't want me to fit the hammock nets on the outer edge, he reckons the builds look better without them, and i don't totally disagree with him so they have been left off as per his instruction
So we will now call these builds finished

Finished the hammocks so now i can move on to complete the upper deck

Made up some of the tools and the baskets. The parts in the instructions to make the 4th tool were not in either kit which makes me think the instructions are not correct again substituted some walnut dowel for one tool instead of cloth

 
Made the 4th tool from other parts and fitted all tools to the racks, and placed the baskets on the table to fill it a bit.

Sacks made and ready to hang

 
Sacks hanging on the inner hull
Must remember to get my airbrush out and blow the dust away

 

Made the buckets for both builds

 
In place on the deck

Placed them on the decks between the guns but not directly central between them as i do not want it to look too uniform
Thanks again for the input guys

Thanks to everyone for their likes, remarks and input so far, it's much appreciated
 
Some more input needed here, I have made these two containers, (one for each build) and i am not sure what they are meant to represent as once again no mention of the name is made in the instructions
My thoughts are they are fuse containers for the touch holes on the cannons. Also i think that what they are should determine where they are placed on the deck
What do you guys think ?