Gaetan Bordeleau

The work will now be aft outside. In preparation the windows. The process of building is exactly as a real home wall framing, openings, covering the walls, moldings. Many windows are fake, meaning no glass, and a black back. I revisited the notes from the first forum about it. In 2009,  with Jack Nastyface and Wacko Wolf we had an interesting discussion about these fake windows. The fake windows are mostly on the sides, For 6 windows, 1 1/2 is true, on each side. I am actually working on the framing that I began few years ago. Unfortunately, I have a big dilemma about the number of windows on the first deck which is 10. With the fake windows, they wanted to give the illusion that the ship was much important than it really was. I began the work by covering the beams. Working this way, it means that there would be 8 windows. But in this megalomania, on the plans, unfortunately, for me, there are 10 windows. Maybe, I should have done the same 74 as Mark, the Bellona which has 8 windows at the first level. So, now the question is will I be cheating or undoing some works?
 
Fortunately, model ship building is not the only pleasure. I like to make adaptors, sometimes called jig and sometimes called tool. I always try to apply the same principles. It must fill a need, it must be as simple as possible, it must be made as fast as possible, when metal is not required, plastic or wood is used.
 
I bought a brush made with v dents to clean the polishing wheels. Very efficient to clean.




 
 

The work will now be aft outside. In preparation the windows. The process of building is exactly as a real home wall framing, openings, covering the walls, moldings. Many windows are fake, meaning no glass, and a black back. I revisited the notes from the first forum about it. In 2009,  with Jack Nastyface and Wacko Wolf we had an interesting discussion about these fake windows. The fake windows are mostly on the sides, For 6 windows, 1 1/2 is true, on each side. I am actually working on the framing that I began few years ago. Unfortunately, I have a big dilemma about the number of windows on the first deck which is 10. With the fake windows, they wanted to give the illusion that the ship was much important than it really was. I began the work by covering the beams. Working this way, it means that there would be 8 windows. But in this megalomania, on the plans, unfortunately, for me, there are 10 windows. Maybe, I should have done the same 74 as Mark, the Bellona which has 8 windows at the first level. So, now the question is will I be cheating or undoing some works?
 
Fortunately, model ship building is not the only pleasure. I like to make adaptors, sometimes called jig and sometimes called tool. I always try to apply the same principles. It must fill a need, it must be as simple as possible, it must be made as fast as possible, when metal is not required, plastic or wood is used.
 
I bought a brush made with v dents to clean the polishing wheels. Very efficient to clean.




 
 

The work will now be aft outside. In preparation the windows. The process of building is exactly as a real home wall framing, openings, covering the walls, moldings. Many windows are fake, meaning no glass, and a black back. I revisited the notes from the first forum about it. In 2009,  with Jack Nastyface and Wacko Wolf we had an interesting discussion about these fake windows. The fake windows are mostly on the sides, For 6 windows, 1 1/2 is true, on each side. I am actually working on the framing that I began few years ago. Unfortunately, I have a big dilemma about the number of windows on the first deck which is 10. With the fake windows, they wanted to give the illusion that the ship was much important than it really was. I began the work by covering the beams. Working this way, it means that there would be 8 windows. But in this megalomania, on the plans, unfortunately, for me, there are 10 windows. Maybe, I should have done the same 74 as Mark, the Bellona which has 8 windows at the first level. So, now the question is will I be cheating or undoing some works?
 
Fortunately, model ship building is not the only pleasure. I like to make adaptors, sometimes called jig and sometimes called tool. I always try to apply the same principles. It must fill a need, it must be as simple as possible, it must be made as fast as possible, when metal is not required, plastic or wood is used.
 
I bought a brush made with v dents to clean the polishing wheels. Very efficient to clean.




 
 

The work will now be aft outside. In preparation the windows. The process of building is exactly as a real home wall framing, openings, covering the walls, moldings. Many windows are fake, meaning no glass, and a black back. I revisited the notes from the first forum about it. In 2009,  with Jack Nastyface and Wacko Wolf we had an interesting discussion about these fake windows. The fake windows are mostly on the sides, For 6 windows, 1 1/2 is true, on each side. I am actually working on the framing that I began few years ago. Unfortunately, I have a big dilemma about the number of windows on the first deck which is 10. With the fake windows, they wanted to give the illusion that the ship was much important than it really was. I began the work by covering the beams. Working this way, it means that there would be 8 windows. But in this megalomania, on the plans, unfortunately, for me, there are 10 windows. Maybe, I should have done the same 74 as Mark, the Bellona which has 8 windows at the first level. So, now the question is will I be cheating or undoing some works?
 
Fortunately, model ship building is not the only pleasure. I like to make adaptors, sometimes called jig and sometimes called tool. I always try to apply the same principles. It must fill a need, it must be as simple as possible, it must be made as fast as possible, when metal is not required, plastic or wood is used.
 
I bought a brush made with v dents to clean the polishing wheels. Very efficient to clean.




 
 

The work will now be aft outside. In preparation the windows. The process of building is exactly as a real home wall framing, openings, covering the walls, moldings. Many windows are fake, meaning no glass, and a black back. I revisited the notes from the first forum about it. In 2009,  with Jack Nastyface and Wacko Wolf we had an interesting discussion about these fake windows. The fake windows are mostly on the sides, For 6 windows, 1 1/2 is true, on each side. I am actually working on the framing that I began few years ago. Unfortunately, I have a big dilemma about the number of windows on the first deck which is 10. With the fake windows, they wanted to give the illusion that the ship was much important than it really was. I began the work by covering the beams. Working this way, it means that there would be 8 windows. But in this megalomania, on the plans, unfortunately, for me, there are 10 windows. Maybe, I should have done the same 74 as Mark, the Bellona which has 8 windows at the first level. So, now the question is will I be cheating or undoing some works?
 
Fortunately, model ship building is not the only pleasure. I like to make adaptors, sometimes called jig and sometimes called tool. I always try to apply the same principles. It must fill a need, it must be as simple as possible, it must be made as fast as possible, when metal is not required, plastic or wood is used.
 
I bought a brush made with v dents to clean the polishing wheels. Very efficient to clean.




 
 

Effectively Mike, it is an excellent post, one of the main reasons, is because you did try them all. I have questions and remarks.
What was your goal with the finishes? What color do you want to get for your model?
 
There are 2 kinds of tung oil, 1 pure and 1 with an additive to dry slower, this way I can keep a bottle for years.
We must always be careful not to have any glue on any surfaces because finishes will not pass through it and it will make a color difference. 
The finish  must always be applied at the last step because most finishes will not accept glue well.
Tung oil is the darkest finish, and this is for this reason that I use it. When applied it does instantly age the wood of 100 years and it gives all the beauty to the wood grain.
Shellac can leave a thick layer which look like to be vitrified and which is very shiny when photographed.
Osmo-polyx: wax oil mixture is not an invention of today. It has been used for few centuries. Alex, the russian makes excellent mixtures with oil , bee wax and even some more  additives depending of the results wanted. By example, you can add bitumen to give a look even more aged  to the wood, turpentine for easier application and so on.
Danish oil, I used it for many years. In comparison with tung oil, it does not look like to be as pure and also if you prefer a lighter coloration, you will use it and I think it was your goal.
Wiping after applying. I would say it is a must especially by the nature of the oils, it is not as easy to spread as paint or something like this.
French polish, I have seen a french guy using it for a modern model ship sail; boat, it was very shiny and very nice to see, but the application method was extremely long and difficult.
For pear wood, I can understand why you chose Osmo-polyx. Do you think that this finish would be the winner with every kind of wood?
For cherry wood, I use the non pure tung oil. I would say for 2 main reasons. It does instantly age the wood of 100 years. Untreated you cannot see the richness of the grain of the cherry wood. By treating it, the magic suddenly appears.
Finally, I did not see any varnish and i think it is a good thing. Varnish are excellent when you want a shiny look as for a violin by example, and this not what we want for as model ship builder.

Mike,
 
Ebony is the nicest wood you can use and no other wood can have the look and feel of this wood but saw dust is like a micro sand
which penetrates everywhere and this wood can be dangerous for the lungs in the long run.
 
The problem with dye is to control the penetration. When  you dye after wood installation and final sanding, you will want to use a tape to limit the area but many dies will want to go under the tape.
 
I use a water based paint easy to control the coverage and also it is very stable in time.
 
I do not want to apply any oil over it. I see no benefit. Chances are that if I do this, the surface will be more reflective and when you will take pictures you will see some light reflection.
 
I think you are overthinking, in french we say why make it easy when you can make it complicated.
It is exactly the same thing when you create a jig, you try to do it as simple as it can be.

Beautiful, Giampiero.  Congratulations.
 

I recently hurt my leg so, I will not be working very much on the model for a while
 
I began this actual model in 2017 and I use Lightroom as a catalogue for  the photos. Up to this day, over 3250 photos are classified  in files. I have selected 12 photos representing my vision of this model through light variations in photography. After selecting these photos, it is clear that most of the photos were taken inside the model ship of a 74 guns at 1/24 scale. This model, is the fourth one of this series. Each model had different goals.
 
One goal, for this model is to try to photograph inside all the decks at the same time and if possible to have a good level of lighting at each deck. To get there, the deck planking is as far as possible: absent, so that more light can go through.
 
3 types of cameras were used: camera, action camera and phone camera. For the photos inside the model, the action camera works best and sometime, when I get lucky, the phone camera gives good results, but I rarely use the camera phone. 
 
What would be the best advice I could give to an aspiring photographer? Light is always the first thing to check. there are also 2 other things that I always take great care:
 
First, I always photograph as close as possible to the same height of the object. By example, if I take a photo of the outside model, I will position the camera at the same height of the model or even lower sometimes. At the contrary, if I take a photo at a much higher position than the model, it will look like more like a toy.
 
Second, I always check so that the camera is parallel with the horizon. These simple 2 advices will get more realistic photos simply because it will be as if the photo was taken at the same height as the human eye. It is never interesting for the eye to see a model which is not parallel with the horizon.
 
 

Hi Mark,
 
Carving is a fascinating subject and you are doing good. The more you try it, the more you gain confidence and the better are the results.
 
As for Tung oil, I have a good idea why it is popular because I have been using it for years and here are some reasons:
 
-Tung oil is clear of debris in comparison with linseed oil by example
-Easy to apply and then you rub the excess
-Applied by thin coats, one is usually enough
-No strong odors, non sticky
-Instantly give 100 years to the look of the wood
-The wood grain is highlighted by using this oil
-Easy to photograph, no shiny effect like shellac by example

I would say: I don't like to look directly bright LED, it is like looking directly at the sun, it has a blinding effect.
This is why LED light should have intensity control to adjust to the work you want to do.
 
Before LED lighting, it was halogen lighting. In a way it is similar in lighting to a warm LED, they both add orange in the colors.
 
LED lighting can not only be useful for photography but for working also. To maximize LED lighting, you should use the right amount of lighting: not too little, you will not see everything and not too much, everything will be too bright and also you will not see everything. This is why it is preferable to be able to adjust the intensity. In fact it will be the same thing with photography, light intensity needs to be adjust.
 
 

This morning, I tried to understand WB in less than a page:

The other reason why you cant mill steel with a drill press , in fact you can, but everything will be jumping on the table, because  lack of rigidity.
For small wood parts, there should be no problems to mill as long as you have the proper vise.

The other reason why you cant mill steel with a drill press , in fact you can, but everything will be jumping on the table, because  lack of rigidity.
For small wood parts, there should be no problems to mill as long as you have the proper vise.

The other reason why you cant mill steel with a drill press , in fact you can, but everything will be jumping on the table, because  lack of rigidity.
For small wood parts, there should be no problems to mill as long as you have the proper vise.

I would say: I don't like to look directly bright LED, it is like looking directly at the sun, it has a blinding effect.
This is why LED light should have intensity control to adjust to the work you want to do.
 
Before LED lighting, it was halogen lighting. In a way it is similar in lighting to a warm LED, they both add orange in the colors.
 
LED lighting can not only be useful for photography but for working also. To maximize LED lighting, you should use the right amount of lighting: not too little, you will not see everything and not too much, everything will be too bright and also you will not see everything. This is why it is preferable to be able to adjust the intensity. In fact it will be the same thing with photography, light intensity needs to be adjust.
 
 

This morning, I tried to understand WB in less than a page:

Hi Allen,
 
Each scale has different challenges of construction and tools.
Building at 1/200 is different than 1/24 and is also different than 1/1.
 
Details disappears with smaller scales and they appear with larger scales.

This subject comes back again and  again. You can search.
In 1 line:
I apply 1 coat of tung oil and the  wipe the surplus. I tried many other but the best results are with  tung oil.
 
Example on the photo, the right part  has not yet  oil.
 

I recently hurt my leg so, I will not be working very much on the model for a while
 
I began this actual model in 2017 and I use Lightroom as a catalogue for  the photos. Up to this day, over 3250 photos are classified  in files. I have selected 12 photos representing my vision of this model through light variations in photography. After selecting these photos, it is clear that most of the photos were taken inside the model ship of a 74 guns at 1/24 scale. This model, is the fourth one of this series. Each model had different goals.
 
One goal, for this model is to try to photograph inside all the decks at the same time and if possible to have a good level of lighting at each deck. To get there, the deck planking is as far as possible: absent, so that more light can go through.
 
3 types of cameras were used: camera, action camera and phone camera. For the photos inside the model, the action camera works best and sometime, when I get lucky, the phone camera gives good results, but I rarely use the camera phone. 
 
What would be the best advice I could give to an aspiring photographer? Light is always the first thing to check. there are also 2 other things that I always take great care:
 
First, I always photograph as close as possible to the same height of the object. By example, if I take a photo of the outside model, I will position the camera at the same height of the model or even lower sometimes. At the contrary, if I take a photo at a much higher position than the model, it will look like more like a toy.
 
Second, I always check so that the camera is parallel with the horizon. These simple 2 advices will get more realistic photos simply because it will be as if the photo was taken at the same height as the human eye. It is never interesting for the eye to see a model which is not parallel with the horizon.
 
 

This subject comes back again and  again. You can search.
In 1 line:
I apply 1 coat of tung oil and the  wipe the surplus. I tried many other but the best results are with  tung oil.
 
Example on the photo, the right part  has not yet  oil.
 

This subject comes back again and  again. You can search.
In 1 line:
I apply 1 coat of tung oil and the  wipe the surplus. I tried many other but the best results are with  tung oil.
 
Example on the photo, the right part  has not yet  oil.
 

Sharpening at his best:

Hi Allen,
 
Each scale has different challenges of construction and tools.
Building at 1/200 is different than 1/24 and is also different than 1/1.
 
Details disappears with smaller scales and they appear with larger scales.

This subject comes back again and  again. You can search.
In 1 line:
I apply 1 coat of tung oil and the  wipe the surplus. I tried many other but the best results are with  tung oil.
 
Example on the photo, the right part  has not yet  oil.