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Robert29

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  1. Hi Graham, as always you come up with brilliant ideas how to tackle certain jobs. Those decorative scrolls are beautiful. I had also made some changes to the scrolls on my model, but your idea is impressive. Keep up you good work. Robert
  2. Thank you all for the comments. Bruce, As for the lighting, electronic wise I tried to keep it as simple as possible. Anything that goes wrong you cannot repair inside the model. The system only involves led's, a resistor for each led and wired them in parallel so I can put as much led's as I want to, just calculate the total amperage of the led's, and make sure the power supply (transformer, its practically impossible to run all those led's on batteries) has the adequate amperage. The other advantage of having them in parallel is that if any led or resistor is burnt, which is very unlikely, will not effect the others. Where possible I also wired them in a ring circuit so that if I have a wire becoming disconnected they will still have the voltage supply on them. My main concern was that I did not want to let any wiring showing, not even the once going out to the power supply. A thing I wish I would have done is have added just a few hanging lanterns on the quarterdeck and the bow so when lit in the dark more details could be seen. This would have been more difficult to hide the wiring. All in all I am quite satisfied with the result, but obviously there are always some things you would do differently if you had to do them agin. Robert
  3. Andrew, Chris, Graham, Sjors, Ian, Julian, Mort, Malcolm, B.E., Anthony, Mugje, thank you all for your coments. Also thank you for all the likes. Robert
  4. Finally HMS Victory long voyage comes to an end. I have posted a few photos but first of all I would like to thank all those who in any way contributed to my build, those who posted directly into my log, those who's logs I visited and took countless ideas, my log's followers and those who contributed with their encouraging comments and likes. I hope that my build would be of help to other builders, like so many others have been to me. Now I have to order an acrylic case to cover it and a table. I will post an image of it when I have it ready. Images with the lights on. Robert
  5. Some more detail to the Main Stay tackle Pendants. Robert The main stay fore tackle need some more tensioning. Robert
  6. Looking good Ron. Yes 0.5mm is quite thin and especially where the planks get narrower they break quite easily. Wetting and heating helps to minimise the problem. Robert
  7. Thank you Ron, glad my build log is of some help to others like other build logs have been of great help to me. Case in point flying the pennant flag. I was wondering how to fit the pennant on the main mast and couldn't really find any details on the internet. Then I remembered seeing something on Gil Middleton's great build log. Gil had details how pig sticks were used and I used the same idea. The pig stick is hoisted above the mast head so that the flag is not fouled by the stays. The hoisting halyards are secured to the top. Also secured the kedge anchor on the starboard mizzen channel. Some more finishing touches to go. Robert
  8. Thank you Ian and Graham. Getting closer to the finish. Fitted two flags and tried to make them look as realistic as possible. I used glue purposely for fabric. The brand is Guttermann, had used it on sails for another model, very good stuff. Didn't want to risk other glue, so for that very little bit I had to buy a new one, as the previous one I had, had dried up. Put glue on one side, placed the thread and attached the two faces. With a couple of clips I arranged the flag to look like it is sort of flying, then. with a brush I wetted it all with water and let it dry again. When I removed the clips it kept the shape. The ensign staff fitted in place and the ensign hoisted in place. The Union Jack also hoisted in place on the Jackstaff. Still have to fit the pennant. But first I have to check exactly where it goes and how it is fitted. Robert
  9. Long overdue update. I had other priorities and things have been moving extremely slow. When I found the time I was doing the rope coils. Here are a few images. I have ordered and received some flags which I will put up soon. So basically a few more coils, the flags, some fine rigging adjustments, a good cleanup and the Victory should be finished. Robert
  10. More work on the boats on the Davits. I fitted the accessories in the boats. Apart from the once supplied with the kit I added some, such as the bucket and the barrel. The Launch The Barge Robert
  11. Ian, thank you again for your feedback. Even though I included the cathead stopper, I will leave the tackle as well. Sjor, thank you for your comment. I try my best as well. There are great and very skilful builders in this forum from whom I have learn a lot. Although I haven't completely rigged the anchors I continued some rigging on the davits. I had decided not to fit all four boats on deck, on the skid beams otherwise the only area that is still showing of the upper gun deck, will be obscured by the boats as well. Two of them I am hanging on the davits. The Launch and the Barge are the two boats going on the davits. I hooked them in place to find the right positions of the davit rigging and the of the tackles. I will unhook them again to add the fittings (oars, anchors, etc.) in them, which I have ready, just fit them in. The Launch on the starboard side. The Barge on the port side. The Pinnace and the Cutter to be rigged on the skid beams. I am not rigging them for now. I will leave them for the last minute as before I rig them in place I need to dust the deck under them. Fittings still to be adde in the boats as well. It's unbelievable the amount of dust the model accumulates. When finished I have to go over every inch of the model with a brush. Robert
  12. Thank you Ian for your reply and the images. That's what I think as well, that the large timberhead at the end of the bulkhead is the most obvious place to belay the cathead tackle. Sometimes soucing some detail is not so straight forward. Sometimes you can't find any and sometimes you find different and conflicting details. So sometimes you have to use your own judgment and go by that. But all in all the Internet is an incredible source of information. Robert
  13. Thank you Graham. Hope it could be an idea to other builders. I found so many ideas in this forum from other builders in building my Victory. Anchors rigged in place as well. I deviated a bit from the manual's instructions on how the anchors are secured. I included some chain as seen in many of the pictures I sourced. Starboard Sheet Anchor. The Bower Starboard Anchor. Apart from the chain I also added the rope tied the the lower end of the anchor. Button I have no clue where the other end of this rope is belayed. The same with the running end of the cat head tackle line. The manual says it is to be belayed around the cathead at the cathead cleat. Shouldn't it be belayed somewhere on board behind the bulwark!!! Maybe I am wrong, I am no expert, any suggestions would be appreciated. Robert
  14. Thank you Captain Hook, yes it is a lot of work, and now that I am nearing the finish I am really eager to see how it looks when its in a showcase that I still have to make. It's been a long time with no updates. For the last month I had other priorities. End of November I went to visit my daughter and my grandson who live in Stratford-Upon-Avon in the UK. Christmas time they came to Malta and were staying with me, so basically I did not have much time for the Victory. At the moment I am fitting the anchors, for which I will soon have some photos to upload. For quite some time I have been thinking what am I going to rest the Victory on when its in the showcase. I did no want to make any curly fancy stands and I came up with the following idea. I had some wooden strips which were left over trimmings from another house project and decided to use them. In the very beginning of the project, in the kit manual it was advised to drill holes though the keel and embed a nut inside to take a threaded rod which then can pass through whatever stand is used and again through a base/table top and secured with another nut on that end. Apart from the holes for the threaded rods I also drilled another hole for the supply wires for the led lights I installed. The keel will rest on the stands in between the wooden bars to hold it in place. The supports on the sides are made to the exact measurements to support the hull and keep the ship from leaning to any side. This is the stand on the stern side. A hole is drilled on one side through which the threaded rod coming out of the keel will pass through and secured to the base. This way the threaded rod will be completely hidden. Same thing with the stand on the bow side. This is the stand in the middle. I did not really need this stand, but I needed something to hide the supply wires coming out of the keel which are to be connected to a transformer hidden under the display table. I drilled a hole on one side through which the wires will pass through. There are no visible wires feeding the led lights throughout the ship, not even the supply wires now. Hoping to be back soon with photos showing the anchors, Robert
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