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Bertu

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  1. I have shaped the profiles that have to run from the cat-head supports to the upper rail. It wasn't easy, I had to heat the profile to bend sideways. Continued work on the upper gundeck lids. Fixed hinges. Fixed eyelets, the 3mm once supplied with the kit and added rings to them I made from copper wire as I couldn't find small enough for the job. Adding thread to the gun-port lids. In the instructions manual it tells you to drill 5mm holes in the hull and insert the other end of the thread in it. I wanted to make something more realistic to the real once. I had some very small brass tubing, 1mm x .225mm thin wall, cut very small pieces, about 4mm/5mm in length and blackened them. I will drill a hole in the hull were the tubing will be inserted and glued leaving just a small part protruding out. The thread will be inserted inside the tube. This is one of the lids fitted in place. There are a few of the lids which are just under the channels and it would be very difficult to fit with the channels in place so I fitted them before the channels. I fitted the chain plates to the dead eyes before I glued the channels in place. I blackened the chain plates. When I dry fitted the channels I realised that for some reason the base of the chain plates that is pinned to the hull was not really in the right place, they were lower. Good thing the channels were still just dry fitted because I had to reopen some of the chains and shorten them by cutting off part of them and reshaping them again. Profile from cat-head support to rail in place, black paint needs retouching. Channels fitted in place and chain plates pinned in place. This is the port side. Still have to pin the chain plates on the starboard side as I ran out of round headed pins and I am waiting for some more from CBM. When pinning the lower parts of the chain plates I suggest you temporarily block the gunports below, I used masking tape, as it is quite easy to drop the lower part of the chain plate inside one of them and there is no way you can get it back and you have no extra once. Don't remember how many times I dropped them on the floor and had to look for them until I find them knowing I have no extras. Robert
  2. Hello Heinz, was wondering when were we going to start seeing your amazing work on the Victory again. It's a real pleasure following your build log. The rigging is looking amazing. Robert
  3. Good to start seeing your beautiful work again Paul. My progress on the Victory is still a bit behind you so its very interesting following your log. Robert
  4. Wallace, Mort Stoll and Sailor thank you for you encouraging comments. I have a small update. Fitted all deadeyes on channels. I also fitted the eyelets and the studding sail boom brackets on the channels. On the brackets a added a small detail by drilling two holes in them and inserting two round headed nails in each bracket. I have also glued the nails in the holes on the channels edge which already have their corresponding holes on the side of the hull. I decided not to fix the channels in place for the moment. Some of the gunport lids and the thread for the upper gun deck are very close underneath the channels. I think it is much easier to fit these lids first and then the channels. So I started work on the gunport lids for the upper gun deck. Glued 1mm walnut strips corresponding with the Wales going across them. Robert
  5. Still unsure how to go about fitting the deadeye strops I sent an email to Caldercraft and by the following day I received a pdf file with the attached details and told me that the nubs are pressed into place on the channel which compresses this section of the strop and this compression helps to hold the strop while the shrouds/chainplates etc are fitted. To make sure the strops won't prise open or move from place while fitting the shrouds and chainplates I decided to make some adjustments. I soldered the nubs together to make sure the strop does not prise open. With a round nosed pliers I pressed together the middle of the lower part of the strop. Drilled a hole on the side of the slots on the channel to take the nubs, always on the same side. I reinforced the the wood around the holes by applying a drop of superglue. Fitted the strop in the slots on the channel at the same time inserting the nubs in the drilled hole. You might need to trim a bit of the slot edges to allow the strops to move just a bit sideways. Do not glue the strops with the channel, at least for now, as they have to be aligned in line with the shrouds. The soldered area will be covered when fitting the walnut strip across the edge of the channel. The images above show the 5mm deadeyes. The 7mm deadeyes will look something like this. I will upload more images of the finished channels later on as I have only tried the strops on one of the channels. I hope this upload will be of some help to anyone who encounters the same problem. Robert
  6. Thank you Michael for your comments and thank you all for the likes. I am about to start work on fitting the deadeyes to the Channels. I have a question as I am not sure if I am missing something on how the deadeyes in strops should be fitted to the channel. As you can see in the picture the strop is open on one side with the ends having another short length protruding at right angles. To be honest I cannot see any scope for these. I can solder the ends together so that the strop will not open when under tension from the shrouds. My question is 'should the protruding sides be trimmed off after I solder the ends as obviously the strop will not fit in the notch on the Channel, or am I missing something on how this should be fitted?' I cannot find any details in the kit manual. Would appreciate any tips. Robert
  7. Michael, just been through your build, lovely work. I can see that you go that extra mile to bring out that detail which makes a model stand out. In my opinion that extra effort you make to perfect the details as much as possible, which is not easy when working on such scale, makes all the difference on the finished model. My next project after I finish my current one, which is still quite a long way, might be a cross section model. I love the detail that can go into it. Robert
  8. Hi Rick, thank you for your comments. To be honest I haven't yet looked into shapeways web site, but I will definitely do. The photo etched sheets supplied with the caldercraft kit are quite good, I dont mind straying away from the supplied material, in fact I did not finish the bottom of the hull with the copper plates supplied with the kit. I preferred to leave it with the wooden planks showing. Obviously the planking entailed a lot more work to finish it nicely. If I had to copper plate the bottom I could get away with any irregularitie as everything will be covered. You asked me what I think about the now new applied colour on HMS Victory, well, it is being claimed that the aunthentic colour, pink hue, is the actual colour it was during the Battle of Trafalgar. To be honest I see the new pinkish colour a bit odd for such a battle ship. I prefer the previous colour it was painted in, which apparently is described as mustard orange or orange-brown. I stuck to this colour, in 'admirality paints' it is the 'yellow ochre'. I think the question is if either you want your model to look like the colours you were already used to see her in, which in my opinion looks better, or how authentic you want to be and paint it in the pinkish colour it is being claimed is the right one, which colour some people even desribed as hedious. Now for an update for the work I managed to do on my model. Fitted the side entry port steps. As a guide for their alignment I use pieces of tape to avoid pencil marks on the painted surface. Also painted the Cat Heads. I will glue on the cast crowns at a later stage to avoid scratching them while doing other work. The band is made from 0.25 x 1.00mm polystyrene strip. Fitted and paintred the remaing brass rails on the hull sides. Did some retouching on the already fitted rails. The paint chips so easily from on brass!!! Finished the blue trimmings on the edges of the head timbers. I made them from strips of Polystyrene 0.25 x 1.0mm. I cut them to the required lengths, paint them and when dry glue them in place. Robert
  9. Rob, yes in fact i have the caldercraft metal primer. As you said it is quite good on metal castings, but on brass, although it gives a good base for the finishing paint, adhesion wise it does not make much diference. Thank you for your comments, I try to keep it a hobby and not a job to get over and done with, that way it gives me more encouragement to redo things when they are not exacly to my liking. Mark, thank you, when I have the time I would like to take a few close ups inside the decks, through gunports or doors when it is lit. It is a bit tricky as you got to have the right lighting and the right exposure. CBM is for Cornwall Model Boats. They are very good suppliers in Cornwall, UK, and they are quite popular with model ship builders in UK. Basically they stock everything you need for modelling. In my country, Malta, we dont have good modelling suppliers, especially for timber, if any at all, so I dont even bother to source them locally I just go on their site and order from them. Postage is really reasonable and within a week they are in my hands. I suppose this is not a problem in USA, probably you have very good suppliers there. For me to order from USA is not feasable as postage from there to Malta is very high. Mort, Thank you Mort. Lately I have watched a move which had really taken me to the day while watching it. It's title is 'Master and Commander', worth watching. It's a nautical historical fictional novel. Here is a clip from it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G95g0vzTAKI Old Collingwood, thank you, I will have a look into it, I'm sure it is interesting. Robert
  10. A long overdue update. Hi Swazza, I had bought the monograms from Syren and used the very small once on the cannons, they were great. I thought they are a bit bulky for the buckets, but I will have another go and see how they look. Thanks. I started work on the windows for the Quarter Galleries and I did not like the windows being flash with the quarter pattern skins. I wanted to create some depth so I made the recess for the windows on the pattern skin deeper. But when I painted them I did not like them either. The edges were they meet with the brass windows were not sharp and clean at all. I took a different approach and hoped for the best. I ordered some 0.5mm thick walnut strips from CMB to cover all the quarter pattern skins to create better window edges and even a deeper recess. I think they look much better now. Didn't worry about the line were the two colours meet as they will be covered by the railing. If you notice the brass profiles I had fitted and painted earlier on the hull, with handling, the paint is all coming off. The paint does not adhere at all to the brass. For now I stopped worrying about it and I will go all over them again when I finish all the work on the hull. On other parts of brass I tried dipping in white vinegar before painting, tried cleaning with acetone, nothing seems to work. Dry fitted the railings to see how it looks. I don't think I will paint and fit the railings for now for the same reason of paint being scratched off so easily on brass. Checked that the lights inside the quarter galleries still worked fine. Looking through one of the doors of the Beakhead on the Bow. Also fitted the fenders and the chesstrees on the side of the hull. Working on the Cat-Heads as well. Regards Robert
  11. Wallace, thank you, I try my best. I learn a lot from this forum. Mort, coming to think of it I think I had seen it somewhere as well. I will try to find it. Reg, thank you for the web site. Looks very interesting, I think I will give it a go. I'll try to find an image of the ensign, check the size I need them and give it a go. The only downside of it I can see is that postage from USA to Malta tends to be quite expensive, but it's worth a try. Regards Robert
  12. A small update. Added some more detail to the Galley Stove Chimney. I glued a metal washer to its base to create an edge and soldered two handles to its side. Nearly ruined the chimney, did not realise that the white metal had such a low melting point, started melting when I touched it with the soldering iron and had to fill it up. Skylight done as well. For the moment both skylight and Mizzen Topsail Sheet Bitts are dry fitted. I will fit them when I have the Flag Lockers ready as well. One thing that is on my mind for the moment are the buckets that hang on the Poop Deck Barricade Assembly. I like to print the ensign on them as well but I do not have the faintest idea how to go about it. Regards Robert
  13. Alan, it is a hobby that needs quite a lot of patience. You have to make sure that you look at it as a hobby you enjoy doing and not a job you have to get over and done with as quickly as possible. I work on the Victory when I really have the mood. Sometimes I work on it nearly every day and sometimes I don't look at it for weeks. You have to enjoy building it, not just looking forward for the moment it is finished. Sometimes, when I am doing repetitive work it's true it gets a bit tedious, like when you are doing so many carriages for the cannons, but that is part of the hobby. When it comes to that I leave it for a few days to do other work around my apartment or start doing something different on the model itself. Nzreg, I have a three bedroomed apartment and now I don't really need the third bedroom so I turned it into a workshop for my hobby. It is quite a big model so basically you not only got to have space where to build it but also were to display it when finished. From figurehead to stern it is 950mm with a hull of 220mm in width, BUT complete with the bowsprit, masts and yards it is 1,385mm (length), 525mm(width), and 940mm(height). Regards Robert
  14. The two Forecastle medium 12pdr cannons are fitted snd rigged in place. Finally finished with all carriages and cannons. The dummy cannons will be fitted at a later stage. Robert
  15. A small update, didn't do much as I was busy redecorating my apartment, finally finished. Fitted and rigged the two Forecastle Carronades. Fitted also the Poop Deck Barricade Assembly, buckets not yet. Robert

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