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  1. A small update, My aim was to continue and finish the stern fascia with the decorations and balusters. Painting the brass decorations was always a concern for me as they get scratched so easily, exposing the brass again. Browsing on the internet I found a product which according to their advert is fantastic, give a coat with it before the actual finish. It also had a video showing how to apply it. I will try to find it and upload it. So I decided to order it and use it on the brass baluster patters on the stern fascia and the side galleries. Erroneously I ordered them from Poland, from where apparently there are no flights for postal service at the moment, whereas postal service from UK is still on. I think it's worth waiting for the product before I continue finishing the stern fascia and the galleries. I will let you know how it went. I finished the rigging of the gunport lids, ready for the other end of the thread to be inserted in the tube on he hull side when fitted. Prepared the outer Poop Deck Hand Rail. Shaped and soldered the railing to the stanchion and the first hammock crane on the poop deck Blackened them. Dry fitted them. I will not fit them for now as otherwise I am sure I will nock them down a hundred times whilst doing other work on the deck. I have also blackened all the hammock cranes and prepared all the holes on the capping rails. It is important to keep the hammock cranes for each area separate from each other and marked as they all differ and if mixed it is no fun trying to identify which goes where. Fitted the Waist Deck Stanchions and rigged the ropes which were already attached to the stanchions at the base of the ladders. Thought I might as well paint the white metal stern decorations for the stern fascia and have them ready. I also painted the quarter gallery drop decorations. The extra metal parts still hanging to the decorations have to be removed to have a nicely finished sharp edge. The metal is very soft, I use a pointed exacto knife. The back part I left unpainted on purpose so that I will finish with some filler where it meets the underside of the gallery first, then paint it in place. As for the hammock crane netting I am still unsure if I should source some kind of tulle, as recommended on the manual, or if I should have a go at trying making them myself, which of course entails a lot more work. I have seen some in this forum made by the builders themselves and they look awesome. Robert
  2. Thank you Graham, much appreciated. The fire buckets you made for your Victory look great. Jeff, thank you for your nice comment. I used normal water based wood filler which I had bought from a local ironmonger. The important thing is that when it dries it will still be easily sanded as otherwise, if it's too hard it will be difficult to remove the excessive filler to uncover the plank grains again. Probably you can get it, or something similar, from most ironmongers. I have attached a few images you might find of help. Before applying the filler. - I left a small gap between the planks for the filler. Applying the filler. - I pasted the hull allover and rubbed it in all the grooves. When it dries it becomes a bit light sort of greyish, but once you apply the varnish over it, it will get darker again. After sanding and varnishing. - All the excessive filler sanded away and varnished. I would suggest that you plank a small piece of wood and carry the whole process on it and see the final result. That way you would know you have the right filler which will give you the result you are looking for after varnishing. Avoid experimenting on the hull itself as you might not get the resuly you want and could be difficult to reverse the process. As for the paints I am using the acrylic Admiralty paints which I had bought from Cornwall Model Boats. Hope this is of help to you and good luck on your build. Robert
  3. Thank you md1400cs and thank you for the likes. A small update but which is taking me a long time. The gunport lids are never ending, so much of them. I have glued the rigols in place and drilled the holes on the hull for the gunport lid ropes. To mark the holes position, I just calculated and marked them on a piece of masking tape and moved the tape from one window to the other. Instead of leaving just a hole on the hull through which I insert the thread I fitted a small piece of a very small diameter brass tube, leaving it extruding out just a bit, and the thread will pass through the tube. I blackened the brass tube pieces before fitting them in place. The width of each lid was checked to make sure it fits inside the window recess to make sure I don't have to trim them after painting them. Every lid was marked on the inside edge to indicate to which window it appertains. I had already prepared the eyelets with the rings. To cut the lengths of the eyelets all the same length without having to measure each and every one (about 250 pieces), which have to be quite short, I took a piece of plywood just a bit thinner then the lids themselves and drilled a hole in it through which the eyelet can pass easily. All I had to do was put the eyelet in the hole and with an angle cutter snip off the leg of the eyelet flash with the plywood. Lids painted and eyelets/rings all fitted in place. Now comes the laborious repetitive work of tying a piece of thread to every ring on the outside of the lids. I think it is much easier tying the thread to the rings now, with the lids in hand and inserting the other end in the hole when lid is fitted, than the other way round, that is gluing the thread in the holes on the hull and trying to tie the thread to the rings after lid is in place as actually indicated in the instruction manual. I am sure it is much more difficult trying to tie neatly the thread with the lid fitted to the hull. Hope to finish tying the thread to the rings by the end of the coming weekend!!!! Robert
  4. Hi Rich, good to see your Victory out of the box again. Always a pleasure following your build and your fine work. Robert
  5. Nice comments and likes really appreciated. Gives me more courage to keep me going on the build which takes hours on hours. But its a hobby I enjoy so its worth every minute I spend on it. I am starting various ends without finishing them. Basically, knowing how fragile certain parts are and how easy to knock down a few of them while doing other work, I am preparing different parts of the fittings so I will find them ready just to fit together on the ship. I started some work on the never ending gunport lids. I started with the lower deck gunport lids. First I added pieces of planks to the lids to correspond with the wales on the hull. When a lot of repetitive work is involved I try to make some kind of a jig as basic as possible as this will be used only once and can be thrown away. I started with the hinges which needed one end bent at 90º. Glued a piece of plywood to another piece of wood as a stopper and placed the hinge against it. Find something flat, exactly the same width from the stopper to where the bend has to be, possibly made of metal to get the bend as sharp as possible. In my case I found an exacto knife blade. With a single edge razor blade bend the hinge. All hinges were bent in no time and exactly all the same. The hinges for the middle gunport lids are slightly shorter so an adjustment has to be made for the jig. Then came the scuttles. The kit manual tells you to make the scuttles from a piece of walnut 0.5mm thick, glue the hinge to it and glue the whole assembly to the lid. 0.5mm is too thick, the scuttle hinge will not sit flat on the lid. I had some thin sapele left from another kit and used it instead. It too was still a bit too thick. Instead of glueing the hinge to the scuttle and glueing it as a whole assembly I thought it would be better to glue the scuttle separately, sand it down to the required thickness in place, and then glue the hinge on top of it. To glue the gunport lid hinge leaving 1mm gap from the inner edge of the lid, the scuttles and their hinges was going to take me ages. So this is the jig I came up with to give me that 1 mm gap at the back of the lid and something to hold the lid steady without moving while glueing the small parts. Nothing elaborate, but found it very helpful. Here are the finished lower deck gunport lids all ready to be painted. I also drilled the holes for the eyelets which I will fit after painting the lids. Robert
  6. Really nice detailed work Graham. The template and the copper wire idea is great. I've got quite a few of thick copper wires but never crossed my mind to use them for the job. When doing mine , as you have said, it was very difficult to bend the thin wood strips in such a short radius without breaking. Robert
  7. Rob, yes that is exactly what I meant as regards bending. To taper the planks I used a combination of a planer ( I have a David planer) and sanding. The planer is useful when you have to remove a substantial amount of wood and sanding is better to remove small amounts. What I had found useful was, in between the marked bands I also marked where each individual plank is going to be on every bulkhead. This helped a lot, especially when you taper a bit too much or too little at any particular place you would know and can compensate for the difference with the next plank. I am inserting a couple of iimages from my build, if you want I can remove. Robert
  8. Hi Rob, sorry I meant flatwise not flatware. What I mean is bending across the tickness of the plank. Whilst edgewise I meant bending laterally across its it's width, which is more difficult. Actually the proper way is to go for what is called 'spiling'. This is used instead of edge bending (across the width). Basically this is done by getting wider planks and cutting the planks to shape instead of bending them. But you will not find the wider planks needed for spiling with any kit. You have to buy them separate and you have a lot of waste. I find nothing wrong with edge bending unless the curve is too sharp, otherwise you might get what is called the clinker effect, i.e the outer edge of the bend tends to overlap the plank next to it. Always taper on the same side of the plank. For example if you are holding the boat upside down to plank the hull taper the top edge and leave the other edge straight. Next plank , again taper the top edge. This way you will always have a straight edge against which to mate the tapered edge.This way you shouldn't get any gaps. You are more likely to get gaps if you have the taper edges facing each other. Hope I am not confusing you. There is a good right up on planking in this same forum. It's worth reading. It's in the articles/downloads - ship model framing and planking - simple hull planking for beginners. plankingprojectbeginners.pdf Robert
  9. Hi Rob, I am currently building the Caldercraft HMS Victory and planking took me a long time, planning, measuring, soaking, glueing etc. I can give you a few hints that I learned throughout my planking period. A tool I found very useful was the Amati Electric Plank Bender. Sometimes if bending flatware you don't even have to soak the plank. But if you are bending edgewise you have to soak them. I never glued planks in place while they were still soaked. Wood expands when soaked and contracts again when it dries. So glueing soaked planks, when they dry they will probably leave a gap from adjacent planks. I used to soak them, bend them to shape, pin them in place temporarily until they are dry. When dry take it off, it should retain the same shape. If need trim to make perfect fit. It is very easy to soak long planks. From any ironmonger buy a piece of PVC drain pipe, maybe 30mm diameter, and a stopper for the same pipe. Seal one end with the stopper, keep it upright and fill with water. You only have to be careful where to keep it, because of its small diameter and long shape it topples very easily. It is best to secure it with something. You can make it any length you want and it is very cheap to make. Hope this helps you and good luck on your build. Robert
  10. Thank you Heinz, from time to time I visit your build and appreciate your beautiful work. Also thank you everybody for the likes. I added another detail on the gallery. I fitted a strip of wood with a rounded edge just under the railings. I think the finish looks better. The railings are still only dry fitted. I decided to fit the rudder. I want to finish certain work before I finish the stern with the brass railings and the metal decorations. The paint scratches so easily especially from the brass, so prefer to leave the least handling for after I finish the stern. Since the stern in the kit is made up of one piece I grooved the face to show the pieces it is made up of. I filled the grooves with black filler and sanded the faces. For the straps holding the hinges I drilled the already marked holes through and fitted them with small dome head pins. The dome headed pins supplied with the kit seemed a bit too large for this job. I managed to find smaller once from CMB. I blackened the brass strips and the pins. Pins were cut very short, long enough for a very short part of it to go into the hull. Small holes were made in the hull in line with the brass straps as I went along, a tiny spot of super glue is applied to the front of the pin and pushed through the brass strip into the hull. You do not have to glue the brass strips to the hull, the pins will hold them in place. One thing which was bothering me was the shape of the brass fire buckets supplied with the kit. As you can see in the following photo it is very plain and it doesn't even look like a bucket. In the instruction manual it tells you to just drill two holes on the sides and tie on a handle with thread. I added some detail to them. From the left extra pieces of brass with the supplied photo etching sheets I cut small narrow pieces and shaped them in a ring to fit the top edge of the bucket. Drilled a hole the same diameter of the bucket in a piece of MDF and left a bit of the bucket protruding out of the MDF. Put the brass ring around the edge. This kept the ring exactly in place to enable me to solder it. Soldered it. Finished them with a file. Drilled two small holes on the edge and fitted two very small eyelets to the rim for the handle. The eyelets are like the once supplied with the kit, of which I had to buy extra from CMB. Looks more like a bucket now. Robert
  11. mfrazier, I am currently building the caldercraft HMS Victory. The dimensions for the fire buckets supplied with the kit are: Height: 5mm Base diameter: 2.5mm Top diameter: 3mm Robert
  12. Thank you very much for the encouraging comments and likes. Bill feel free to use whatever is in my log. As much as I have learned from this forum sourcing ideas and hints from other builders it is my pleasure to know that my work is of some help to others. Robert
  13. Richard, thank you for your nice comments, I have already marked the deck treenails, butt ends only. With the lanterns put aside to be fitted at a much later stage, probably for the very last as otherwise I am sure I would nock them down multiple times whilst doing the rigging, I fitted the outer stern fascia in place. Before I fitted it I painted the window frames, glued transparent plastic strips to the inner fascia, in front of the windows to represent the glass panes and gave it a coat of paint, just to know were the outlines of the two different colours should be. I will finish the paint with more coats when in place as obviously there is going to be a lot of rough handling and sanding to fit the brass profiles. The bottom edge of the fascia had too much of an overhang on the pattern beneath it, so I decided to plank the pattern to bring it in line with the stern fascia. To get a good fit of the brass profiles and to match the corners where they meet mitered at the stern fascia and the galleries needed quite some work. It is imperative for the profiles to be fitted nicely and as accurate as possible. Being at the edges, any imperfections will show. Since I had added an extra 0.5mm skin on the galleries to create the window depths, I had to add a strip of wood underneath to fix the brass profile on. Also had to do some sanding and filling to the edge of the lower gallery where it meets the fascia. to bring it exactly in line with the stern fascia. I couldn't just sand the edge of the fascia as otherwise I will loose the symmetry of the fascia were the scrolls are to be fitted. Fitted the edge capping for the fascia. If you notice I left the edge of the outer curve overhanging a bit as I might glue thin strips of styrene on the outer edge of the fascia. If not I will sand flash. It was quiet time consuming to get the brass profiles the right shape as they had to be bent flat wise and edge wise at the same time. Since there is no place to put any clips to hold the brass profiles whilst glue is drying I thought the best method to keep them in place was to drill small holes in the profiles and keep them in place with nails. I did not want to use super glue as I wanted to have time to line them exactly in place and also for better adhesion I used epoxy glue. Brass profiles mitred corners filed nicely together, finished with some filler and given a coat of metal primer. Robert

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