Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

973 profile views
  1. The two Forecastle medium 12pdr cannons are fitted snd rigged in place. Finally finished with all carriages and cannons. The dummy cannons will be fitted at a later stage. Robert
  2. A small update, didn't do much as I was busy redecorating my apartment, finally finished. Fitted and rigged the two Forecastle Carronades. Fitted also the Poop Deck Barricade Assembly, buckets not yet. Robert
  3. Poop deck in place. Had to finish all the wiring going to the gallery before I fitted the poop deck plywood. Checked that everything was working including the supply to the three lanterns which are to be fitted much later. Planking poop deck, all wiring hidden, leaving the holes at the back open so that I could reach the wire terminations for the lanterns. Poop deck ladders. Planking finished, capping fitted and painted, ladders fitted and carriages on the quarter deck fitted and rigged. Openings will be covered with the flag lockers and a small piece of planking at the very corners after soldering in the lanterns. There is a lot of work on the quarter deck and I want to finish it before I start work on the outside of the hulls. Still have to make the Skylight, the Flag Lockers, Barricade Assembly, fit the Forecastle Cannons..... Robert
  4. Beautiful work Michael, planking is fantastic. It's a pity that it will be covered with the second planking but I can assure you that it is not wasted. When I did mine I found it a very good base for the second planking and by then I had gained a great amount of know how which is so essential for the second planking. Keep on your beautiful work Michael. Robert
  5. Beautiful work Dave. A piece of work that really deserves a prominent display spot in your entertainment room. Congratulations. Robert
  6. Thank you for the info Christos, on my next visit I'll make sure I take a tripod with me. Although images below the decks aren't really necessary for the build there is some really interesting details down the decks, which is nice to have and enriches your knowledge what it was like and what went inside those ships. Robert
  7. Thank you for the nice comments and likes. Mark / Kevin, Very true what you say about the colour scheme, a pinkish colour on a battle ship does seem a bit odd. In my model I stuck to the yellow ochre. Christos, wish I had a tripod for the camera with me. There were so many other things in the lower decks worth taking a photo off but could not because of the very low light. You are not allowed to use flash but to be honest I don't know if you are allowed to use a tripod. If I visit her again I will give it a try. Robert
  8. A few more photos. It's a pity I could not take more pictures of the lower decks as it was too dark. The light was very dim and it was impossible to take photos without a tripod, which I did not have with me. Robert
  9. Mark, thank you for your nice comments. Patrick, thank you and good luck on your return to your Victory. Hope you enjoy building it as much as I am enjoying it. A fortnight ago I visited my daughter in Stratford-Upon-Avon where she lives and works, and she was nice enough, together with her partner, to drive me down to Portsmouth to visit the real Victory. We stayed there for the night where we had a great time. Weather was beautiful and I really enjoyed my visit to the Victory. When I sort the photos I took I will upload some of them. In the meantime I have an update for my build. I continued work on the rear of the quarterdeck so that I will be able to fit the poop deck. Fitted and wired three lanterns. Screens are only dry fitted for the moment, just to get a position were to place the lanterns and the cannons. Carriages in place and all rigged. Ships wheel assembled and fitted in place with thread lashed around the barrel and going down through the quarterdeck. Binnacle also fitted in place and lashed to the quarterdeck. Screen assembly glued in place I boxed the wiring passing along the beam to make sure they do not show through the gunport since the cabin is going to be lit by the lanterns. Robert
  10. Good luck Patrick, hope to see you back on your Victory build soon. Robert
  11. Looking forward to see your work on the Victory Mort. Robert
  12. Yes Admiralty paints are Caldercraft. I had bought the set of paints for the Victory from CMB (part no. APS9014W). Here under is a list of the paints included in the set. The price is £29.36. If you notice, there is the Matt (Metal) Black which is very similar to the Dull Black. You can hardly see the difference. I used it for the two carronades which were made of white metal casting so couldn't blacken. HMS Victory Paint Set This paint set is for the Nelsons Navy kit HMS Victory and is made up of 14 jars as follows: Dull Black x 3 Matt (Metal) Black x 1 Matt White x 1 Yellow Ochre x 3 Red Ochre x 1 French Blue x 1 Olive Green x 1 Wood (Walnut) Brown x 1 Gold / Brass x 1 Copper x 1 Robert
  13. Thank you Messis, the cannons were brass. I don't think it will work on cast metal as it will not have the same chemical reaction on it. On the Birchwood Brass Black container itself it states that it is for brass, copper or bronze. To be honest I don't know of any product that will work on cast metal. The cannon barrels in the kit, 104 of them, are all brass except for the two forecastle carronades which are made of white metal casting. Those two I had to paint. Robert
  14. Thank you Heinz, from time to time I keep popping into your magnificent Victory build. My next job in mind is to fit the Poop Deck and to do that I have to fit the cannons inside the Cabin, so I have to concentrate on them for now. I have already prepared the carriages so I needed to blacken the barrels. Although for the moment I only need the cannons for the quarterdeck, once I am on the job I decided to blacken all the rest of the barrels, that is the dummy barrels for the lower and middle gun deck , at one go. As already posted before I had sourced the Birchwood Brass Black which I found very good. It was not available locally so I had to source it from abroad. The problem was that suppliers did not ship this product abroad until I finally found one that did. I found a small glass container for the Brass Black. It was ideal because I did not have to use much of the agent to cover all the length of the cannon. The only draw back was that I had to do them one by one which took more time but at the same time I had more control on the time dipping them for. The barrels had some kind of an oily residue on them so first I washed them thoroughly with water and a normal dish washing agent using an old tooth brush, then left them in acetone for half a day. This was the set up for the job, the glass container with the blackening agent, next to it two containers with water to rinse the cannons, first rinse in the first container to remove most of the blackening agent then leave them for some time in the other. The best method I found was to dip the barrel in the Brass Black agent for 15 seconds, take it out and leave it wet with the agent for another 45 seconds, then rinse them in water to stop the chemical reaction, first in one container than in the other. From previous blackening of small etched parts I experienced that if you leave them long in the blackening agent, the blackening layer will sort of peel off. With one process this was not enough, I had to repeat the same process another two times. After each process, when dry it leaves a powdery layer. Before each process it is very important to remove this layer by rubbing them with a cloth, otherwise the next process will not be effective. Barrel being dipped in agent by holding it with a toothpick plugged in the front hole of the cannon. Should have worn gloves because after so many dippings I also blackened my fingers and my nails, apart from the fact that after I read the label on container it stated that prolonged contact may damage your skin. After a good hand wash no harm done. Rinsed in water Left to dry on these stands I prepared beforehand. The quarterdeck barrels on the left side had the process repeated three times. They are still drying except for the one on the right in the front row which is already buffed and the powdery residue removed. The dummy barrels in the middle and right hand still have to go for their third dip. A closer look at the buffed one after three dips, which in my opinion the end result came out quite good. I am not saying this is the best way to be done but it is the best way that worked out for me after a few tests and some good advice I had received earlier on from Graham (Archer33) when doing the cannons for the upper gun deck. The Birchwood Brass Black is a fast acting agent. Before I managed to get this agent I had another brand with which I could not work, and could not understand what was going wrong for me, in fact I had nearly given up and was going to paint them before I decided to have another go with the Birchwood Brass Black. With the initial blackening agent it had taken two days dipped in the agent before any blackening took place. I definitely recommend the Birchwood Brass Black. Regards Robert

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
  • Create New...