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  1. Hi Helli, Really nice work on the shrouds, very neat and authentic. The rigging is going to be a challenge for me, never attempted a rigging job of the Victory's level. The only rigging I did was on the J.S. Elcano, which was very basic, and Bluenose II which again is far from the Victory rigging. Robert
  2. Hello David, welcome to this great forum. I can see that you have already been given some sound advise. Yes, keep away from banned manufacturers, you will not find any builds in this forum relating to these manufacturers. The first thing I realised I needed when I started this hobby was a head magnifier to be able to handle the tiny parts, without them I am lost. I started this hobby about ten years ago and I am currently building the HMS Victory from Caldercraft. But before I started on this ambitious build I tried my hands on a much smaller boat, 'Bluenose II' by Artesania Latina, which is a much more basic build but I must admit, from it I gained a lot of experience regarding hull and deck planking, plank bending and rigging. I think Meddo's advise above is a good one. Regards Robert
  3. Hi Helli, I just came across your build, I don't know how I have missed it during all this time. That's a great job you are doing on the rigging. I agree with you about the two books you recommended to Vahur, I have both of them. When I came to do the masts, which I am still working on, I deviated a bit from the plans supplied with the kit and referred a lot to 'The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships'. It has some great drawings on the masts and rigging. I haven't started the rigging yet, and I am sure I will be referring a lot to these two books, and your build to steal some ideas 🙂. Robert
  4. Stuglio, thanks for your encouraging comments. To copper or not to copper the hull was a decision which took me long to decide. Heinz, thank you, I must say browsing through your Victory build gives me a lot of encouragement. md1400cs, thank you, I myself took loads of ideas from other builds. Finally I received the long awaited product I was waiting for to treat the brass before painting with acrylic paint, so now I will put aside the work I was doing on he masts to continue the work on the stern. But I will give you an update were I have arrived on the masts. Tapering and flattening the sides of the lower masts with a plane and sanding to take the cheeks. Fitted the bands which have to pass through from under the cheeks. I used styrene 0.25mm x 2mm. This is the main lower mast. It's the one that has a lantern fitted to the lower top. I cut a channel along the mast through which I will pass the wires to supply the led in the lantern. After I pass the wires the channel will be filled and on top of it will be fitted the rubbing paunch, so no wiring will be exposed. Hopefully I will manage to solder the wires to the wires at the base of the mast without leaving any showing. Using grips to keep cheeks in place while the glue dries dries. Once the lower masts were formed I started work on the top masts and topgallant masts. First I marked the octagons on them all along the dowel. Then I squared the ends were they needed to. Before shaping the octagons I tapered the parts where the dowel was to remain round. At this stage I had a bit of difficulty in the octagon measurements given on the kit's plans. On the plans the measurements for the octagons were given from one corner point to the other. If you work like that there were instances were the octagon measurement from one face to the other was going to be thinner than the rounded mast on top of it. Not only it does not look good but I think it is wrong. The octagon should be larger than the rounded part on top of it. So basically I diverted a bit from the measurements given on the plans, especially were the octagons were involved. I have the book by C. Nepean Longbridge ' The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships'. which was of great help in this regards. It has some pretty detailed drawings with measurements of the masts. I do not own a lathe and I did the tapering on a power drill. Because of the amount of saw dust I did this in my garage. I have a variable speed driller with I grabbed in a bench vice and used sand paper to taper them taking care not to touch where the octagons should be. I marked these with a piece of masking tape. I used course sand paper to remove the bulk, then change to finer sand paper when it gets near the required size. A calliper is a must for this work. When the round tapering was done I worked on the octagons. You have to be careful to keep one of the flat sides in line with a flat side of the squared part of the mast. To shape them I used a small plane and a small file. I avoided using sand paper as with sand paper it is difficult to have the sharp corners forming the octagon. Sand paper has the tendency to round off the corners on such small diameters and loosing all the effect of the octagons. All masts shaped. You can notice that the octagon part on the lower part of two masts, where it is offset, I shaped it by adding strips on the underlying octagon and shaping them again. I did this because if I had to make this out of the dowel itself, a lot of material should be removed and the octagon underlying it would have to be smaller, which in turn will be thiner than the rounded part on top of it. I am not sure if I am confusing you, but if you want I can try to explain it with some drawings. Regards Robert
  5. Hi Daniel, I am currently building the Caldercraft Victory and I follow a few other Victory builds on this forum. But to be honest with you, since your build is the plastic kit I never checked on it, thinking its a totally different story from what I am doing. Today I had a look in it and oh boy, was I wrong!!! Your work is amazing, so much detail, your approach to certain problems, simply awesome. I will be following your build with great interest. Robert
  6. Thank you Michael. and thank you all for the likes. Still waiting for the brass treatment so I can carry on with the stern and galleries. Yesterday I received the good news that it has been posted and should arrive pretty soon. In the meantime I thought I might as well start some work on the bowsprit and masts. BOWSPRIT I started by first squaring the front part of the bowsprit on which the cap is fitted. It is cut an an angle as the cap, when fitted has to be perpendicular to the keel. Then I tapered it as indicated on the plans. Positioning of sheaves filed flat. Bowsprit bee flat glued in place. I made the gammoning saddles with 1.5 x 1.5mm walnut as indicated in the manual. I noticed that some builders did them by using a piece from the same dowel and hollowing the inside. The idea is good but since saddles have to go down to half of the mast diameter, to achieve that you have to use a larger diameter dowel, otherwise it is going to stop short. I had a try with the 1.5 x 1.5mm strips on an extra piece of dowel first and I was satisfied with the result. One important thing is the positioning of the saddles on the bowsprit. If you mark them exactly as indicated on the plans you might end up with their positioning out of line from where they should be. The best thing is to insert the bowsprit in place, making sure it is all in and from there mark the saddles. The space between the saddles has to be exactly in line with the two slots on the stem from where later on, a line has to pass through, up and round the bowsprit from in between the saddles for nine times. Also keep in mind that the saddles should be vertical when the bowsprit is positioned on the model. Strips are cut just a bit longer and trimmed in place with inexact knife when glue is thoroughly dry. Gaps filled with a filler and strips sanded round. Still need a bit more of filling and sanding. I made the bands out of styrene strips 0.25mm x 2mm When making the bands out of styrene grab the strip between your finger and something with an edge like the handle of a knife as shown in the picture and give it a pull. The styrene strip will curl round and keep the position. If the curve is still too big, give it another pull and it will curve even more. This is very handy so that it keeps in place when gluing round the mast. Top and bottom of the cap to be bevelled to be in line with the bowsprit when fitted. Holes in cap have also to be drilled at an angle to be in line with the bowsprit. Also take note that they are not in the middle of the cap but offset to the port side. The lower part of the jibboom is an octagon. The jibboom is made from a 6mm diameter dowel. It tapers from 5mm to 3.7mm. When I tapered it I left the part of the octagon still 6mm in diameter, then I shaped the octagon on the 6mm diameter. If you taper it to 5mm and then form the octagon, that part kind of looks thinner then the rest 5mm diameter dowel, and it doesn't look good. In my opinion it looks better this way and I think, correct me if I am wrong, it is the way it should be. Sheaves and jibboom support fitted in place. Stop cleats made from 1.5mm 1.5mm walnut fitted as well. FORE LOWER MAST Also started some work on the Fore Lower Mast.The top part of the Lower Mast has two squared sections, 8mm square and 6mm square. On the top of the mast I marked 8mm square and another 6mm square inside it. then drew lines from the four points of the square down along the dowel to a length of 73.1mm as a guide. With a fine saw I made several cuts, being careful not to go down further then the 8mm square and chiseled out most of the material, then I took out the rest of it on my proxxon table fitted on my proxxon drill stand with a trimmer bit. In a way used it sort of like a milling machine. Don't get me wrong, it does not in any way substitute the actual Milling Machine, I do not own a milling Machine, but I have seen some work, and it is in no way any near to it. I mostly use the table to make some accurate holes and similar things. IT IS NOT A MILLING MACHINE. The real milling machine is a beautiful machine, but quite expensive, and in my opinion it's cost does not justify the little need I have for it. The 8mm square sanded and finished. the 6mm square formed as well. TOPS To be honest I thought the tops were going to be more difficult to make then they actually were. First I glued the gunwale to the platform. To mark the battens I used a piece of tracing paper to trace the battens from on the plans. Then I transferred the end points of the battens on the platform. I glued the battens in place leaving the inside a bit longer. When dry I trimmed them with an exacto knife and sanded them flash to the inside edge of the platform. All battens glued. Crosstrees and trestletrees assembled as well. Crosstree and trestletree assemblies glued to platform. That is all for today. Robert
  7. Thank you Heinze, your compliments are always appreciated coming from the builder of such an awesome Victory model. Thank you Jeff, looking forward to see how your planking is coming along. I don't have much to update, I am still waiting to receive the product I ordered online for the brass treatment before painting. I have to try it on the stern balusters before I continue on it. In the meantime I rigged the closed gunport lid in the bow and the two vents at the stern. Going through the rigging instructions I noticed that in various places were in realty you should have metal thimbles, eyelets were used. The thimbles have to be very small, so I experimented a bit to see if it's possible to replace the eyelets with the proper thimbles. Thought it's worth sharing, maybe someone would like to have a go at it as well. I had a piece of brass tubing, 1mm in diameter x 0.225 wall thickness which I thought would do the job. I had read somewhere that you can cut thin brass tubing by just placing an exacto knife on top of it and roll it forward and backwards a few times. It worked like magic. I cut a small piece, about 1.5mm in length. Then found a piece of a circuit board with holes slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the brass tubing and a pointed instrument which opens in a larger diameter than the tubing itself. Placed them as shown in the picture and with a couple of slight taps with a small hammer formed a flare on the edge. Turned it round and did the something on the other side. Then laid it flat and gave it a very light tap on each side which gave the edges of the flares a better finish. After throwing away the first couple I tried and got the hang of it they came out pretty good. I made a few of them and blackened them to use on my future rigging. Robert
  8. Hello Michael, very nice work. Glad that my advice that sometimes we share over messaging is of help to you, but what makes your work outstanding is your craftsmanship and you determination to fine detail. Kept it up. Robert
  9. A small update, My aim was to continue and finish the stern fascia with the decorations and balusters. Painting the brass decorations was always a concern for me as they get scratched so easily, exposing the brass again. Browsing on the internet I found a product which according to their advert is fantastic, give a coat with it before the actual finish. It also had a video showing how to apply it. I will try to find it and upload it. So I decided to order it and use it on the brass baluster patters on the stern fascia and the side galleries. Erroneously I ordered them from Poland, from where apparently there are no flights for postal service at the moment, whereas postal service from UK is still on. I think it's worth waiting for the product before I continue finishing the stern fascia and the galleries. I will let you know how it went. I finished the rigging of the gunport lids, ready for the other end of the thread to be inserted in the tube on he hull side when fitted. Prepared the outer Poop Deck Hand Rail. Shaped and soldered the railing to the stanchion and the first hammock crane on the poop deck Blackened them. Dry fitted them. I will not fit them for now as otherwise I am sure I will nock them down a hundred times whilst doing other work on the deck. I have also blackened all the hammock cranes and prepared all the holes on the capping rails. It is important to keep the hammock cranes for each area separate from each other and marked as they all differ and if mixed it is no fun trying to identify which goes where. Fitted the Waist Deck Stanchions and rigged the ropes which were already attached to the stanchions at the base of the ladders. Thought I might as well paint the white metal stern decorations for the stern fascia and have them ready. I also painted the quarter gallery drop decorations. The extra metal parts still hanging to the decorations have to be removed to have a nicely finished sharp edge. The metal is very soft, I use a pointed exacto knife. The back part I left unpainted on purpose so that I will finish with some filler where it meets the underside of the gallery first, then paint it in place. As for the hammock crane netting I am still unsure if I should source some kind of tulle, as recommended on the manual, or if I should have a go at trying making them myself, which of course entails a lot more work. I have seen some in this forum made by the builders themselves and they look awesome. Robert
  10. Thank you Graham, much appreciated. The fire buckets you made for your Victory look great. Jeff, thank you for your nice comment. I used normal water based wood filler which I had bought from a local ironmonger. The important thing is that when it dries it will still be easily sanded as otherwise, if it's too hard it will be difficult to remove the excessive filler to uncover the plank grains again. Probably you can get it, or something similar, from most ironmongers. I have attached a few images you might find of help. Before applying the filler. - I left a small gap between the planks for the filler. Applying the filler. - I pasted the hull allover and rubbed it in all the grooves. When it dries it becomes a bit light sort of greyish, but once you apply the varnish over it, it will get darker again. After sanding and varnishing. - All the excessive filler sanded away and varnished. I would suggest that you plank a small piece of wood and carry the whole process on it and see the final result. That way you would know you have the right filler which will give you the result you are looking for after varnishing. Avoid experimenting on the hull itself as you might not get the resuly you want and could be difficult to reverse the process. As for the paints I am using the acrylic Admiralty paints which I had bought from Cornwall Model Boats. Hope this is of help to you and good luck on your build. Robert
  11. Thank you md1400cs and thank you for the likes. A small update but which is taking me a long time. The gunport lids are never ending, so much of them. I have glued the rigols in place and drilled the holes on the hull for the gunport lid ropes. To mark the holes position, I just calculated and marked them on a piece of masking tape and moved the tape from one window to the other. Instead of leaving just a hole on the hull through which I insert the thread I fitted a small piece of a very small diameter brass tube, leaving it extruding out just a bit, and the thread will pass through the tube. I blackened the brass tube pieces before fitting them in place. The width of each lid was checked to make sure it fits inside the window recess to make sure I don't have to trim them after painting them. Every lid was marked on the inside edge to indicate to which window it appertains. I had already prepared the eyelets with the rings. To cut the lengths of the eyelets all the same length without having to measure each and every one (about 250 pieces), which have to be quite short, I took a piece of plywood just a bit thinner then the lids themselves and drilled a hole in it through which the eyelet can pass easily. All I had to do was put the eyelet in the hole and with an angle cutter snip off the leg of the eyelet flash with the plywood. Lids painted and eyelets/rings all fitted in place. Now comes the laborious repetitive work of tying a piece of thread to every ring on the outside of the lids. I think it is much easier tying the thread to the rings now, with the lids in hand and inserting the other end in the hole when lid is fitted, than the other way round, that is gluing the thread in the holes on the hull and trying to tie the thread to the rings after lid is in place as actually indicated in the instruction manual. I am sure it is much more difficult trying to tie neatly the thread with the lid fitted to the hull. Hope to finish tying the thread to the rings by the end of the coming weekend!!!! Robert
  12. Hi Rich, good to see your Victory out of the box again. Always a pleasure following your build and your fine work. Robert
  13. Nice comments and likes really appreciated. Gives me more courage to keep me going on the build which takes hours on hours. But its a hobby I enjoy so its worth every minute I spend on it. I am starting various ends without finishing them. Basically, knowing how fragile certain parts are and how easy to knock down a few of them while doing other work, I am preparing different parts of the fittings so I will find them ready just to fit together on the ship. I started some work on the never ending gunport lids. I started with the lower deck gunport lids. First I added pieces of planks to the lids to correspond with the wales on the hull. When a lot of repetitive work is involved I try to make some kind of a jig as basic as possible as this will be used only once and can be thrown away. I started with the hinges which needed one end bent at 90º. Glued a piece of plywood to another piece of wood as a stopper and placed the hinge against it. Find something flat, exactly the same width from the stopper to where the bend has to be, possibly made of metal to get the bend as sharp as possible. In my case I found an exacto knife blade. With a single edge razor blade bend the hinge. All hinges were bent in no time and exactly all the same. The hinges for the middle gunport lids are slightly shorter so an adjustment has to be made for the jig. Then came the scuttles. The kit manual tells you to make the scuttles from a piece of walnut 0.5mm thick, glue the hinge to it and glue the whole assembly to the lid. 0.5mm is too thick, the scuttle hinge will not sit flat on the lid. I had some thin sapele left from another kit and used it instead. It too was still a bit too thick. Instead of glueing the hinge to the scuttle and glueing it as a whole assembly I thought it would be better to glue the scuttle separately, sand it down to the required thickness in place, and then glue the hinge on top of it. To glue the gunport lid hinge leaving 1mm gap from the inner edge of the lid, the scuttles and their hinges was going to take me ages. So this is the jig I came up with to give me that 1 mm gap at the back of the lid and something to hold the lid steady without moving while glueing the small parts. Nothing elaborate, but found it very helpful. Here are the finished lower deck gunport lids all ready to be painted. I also drilled the holes for the eyelets which I will fit after painting the lids. Robert
  14. Really nice detailed work Graham. The template and the copper wire idea is great. I've got quite a few of thick copper wires but never crossed my mind to use them for the job. When doing mine , as you have said, it was very difficult to bend the thin wood strips in such a short radius without breaking. Robert

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