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  1. Mort, I took your advice, makes sense to keep the deadeyes all matched. You keep safe too. Thank you all for the likes, here is another update. More work on the masts and yards. Boarding pike racks fitted in place and added the bands that go in between. The mast sleeves are only dry fitted. Prepared the mast head lashings. In the kit manual it is referred to at a much later time, with the shrouds already in place. I thought it would be much easier to lash them now, with the mast in hand. The thread hanging from them is tempo
  2. Thank you for your nice comment md1400cs, and thank you all for the likes. A small update on the masts. They are now assembled, lower masts, top masts and top gallants. Dead eyes also in place, their strops have been blackened. I am unsure about the deadeyes, if to paint them black like the once for the lower shrouds, or to leave them as they are. Lantern also assembled in place and connected temporarily to a supply to make sure it functions. Hand masts also painted yellow and glued in place. Tried the la
  3. More work on the masts. Finished the bands on the square top end of the lower masts. Also fitted the battens on the corners. To keep them the same distance from the corners I made sort of a quick jig made of two strips glued together as shown on image. Then I made the blocks that are to go under the tops. In the instructions it tells you to fit eyebolts and tie the blocks to them. I used a different way which is more realistic. I made a loop with a thread. Gripped both ends with these electrical clips.
  4. Bossman, thank you for your kind words. I hope some of my ideas will be of some help to other builders as I myself have taken loads of ideas from other builders. Here is an update on more work on the masts. One of my major concerns was how to wire the lantern on the Main Mast without any wiring showing. At this stage all the components of the lantern are only dry fitted. Bending the brass tube with such a short radius without the tube being pinched and the inside hole closing or narrowing down was not easy, but on the third try a managed to
  5. Jazzyrjw, Good luck on your Victory build. Basically you do not need to paint the bulkheads, you might say I got carried away with the paint. What you have to make sure is that when the hull and decks are fitted none of those areas can be seen, especially through the gunport, as when you have the lights on those brighter areas might show. But as long as you are sure they cannot be seen from any angle, which I am sure mostly are not, there is no need to paint them. Yes, putting in the lights need a lot of planning beforehand, in fact it was a decision I had to make in the very begin
  6. Great work Bossman, very neat and detailed. That attention for detail and neat work together with your craftsmanship brings out a an awesome model of the Confederacy. Robert
  7. Thank you BenD and thank you all for the likes. A small update: I finished the bands on the three lower masts, except for the very lower once which have to be fitted when the boarding pike racks are being fitted. The groove on the main mast is from where I am to take the wiring up to the lantern. With wiring in place it will be filled and the whole length will also be covered with the 1.5mm x 4mm rubbing paunch. Although some of the bands are cut were they come over the channel, with the rubbing paunch fitted over them they will look like they continue all the way u
  8. Thank you Stuglio. Here are a few more photos with the stern lights on. Robert
  9. An update of the work on the stern. Painted the stern and gallery baluster patterns. As a primer I used the the VMS 'Metal Prep 4K'. It worked quite good, the acrylic paint adhered much better then the grey primer I had. They had a much better resistance to scratches while handling them. For the black line I used Styrene strips, 0.25 x 1mm for the side galleries, 0.25mm x 2mm for the lower stern baluster pattern. For the upper baluster pattern I used the 2mm for the lower line but the top line is not the same width all the length. In the middle it gets wider, so I used the 5mm
  10. Hi Helli, Really nice work on the shrouds, very neat and authentic. The rigging is going to be a challenge for me, never attempted a rigging job of the Victory's level. The only rigging I did was on the J.S. Elcano, which was very basic, and Bluenose II which again is far from the Victory rigging. Robert
  11. Hello David, welcome to this great forum. I can see that you have already been given some sound advise. Yes, keep away from banned manufacturers, you will not find any builds in this forum relating to these manufacturers. The first thing I realised I needed when I started this hobby was a head magnifier to be able to handle the tiny parts, without them I am lost. I started this hobby about ten years ago and I am currently building the HMS Victory from Caldercraft. But before I started on this ambitious build I tried my hands on a much smaller boat, 'Bluenose II' by Artesania Latina, which
  12. Hi Helli, I just came across your build, I don't know how I have missed it during all this time. That's a great job you are doing on the rigging. I agree with you about the two books you recommended to Vahur, I have both of them. When I came to do the masts, which I am still working on, I deviated a bit from the plans supplied with the kit and referred a lot to 'The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships'. It has some great drawings on the masts and rigging. I haven't started the rigging yet, and I am sure I will be referring a lot to these two books, and your build to steal some ideas 🙂.
  13. Stuglio, thanks for your encouraging comments. To copper or not to copper the hull was a decision which took me long to decide. Heinz, thank you, I must say browsing through your Victory build gives me a lot of encouragement. md1400cs, thank you, I myself took loads of ideas from other builds. Finally I received the long awaited product I was waiting for to treat the brass before painting with acrylic paint, so now I will put aside the work I was doing on he masts to continue the work on the stern. But I will give you an update were I have arrived o
  14. Hi Daniel, I am currently building the Caldercraft Victory and I follow a few other Victory builds on this forum. But to be honest with you, since your build is the plastic kit I never checked on it, thinking its a totally different story from what I am doing. Today I had a look in it and oh boy, was I wrong!!! Your work is amazing, so much detail, your approach to certain problems, simply awesome. I will be following your build with great interest. Robert
  15. Thank you Michael. and thank you all for the likes. Still waiting for the brass treatment so I can carry on with the stern and galleries. Yesterday I received the good news that it has been posted and should arrive pretty soon. In the meantime I thought I might as well start some work on the bowsprit and masts. BOWSPRIT I started by first squaring the front part of the bowsprit on which the cap is fitted. It is cut an an angle as the cap, when fitted has to be perpendicular to the keel. Then I tapered it as indicated on the plans. Positioning of sheaves filed
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