Roger Pellett
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Roger Pellett got a reaction from Canute in New builder here, understanding the different types of wood in your kit???
I have little or no patience with computers but I have an active build Log for my current project here on MSW. Build logs here on MSW are stand alone. They do not require You Tube, Face Book, or anything else. In your case go to Build Logs for Kit Models. Pick the date range that applies to your model. Open a new topic, and start telling your story. If you have photos saved, click on Add Files at the bottom of your post. It’s really as easy as that!
Roger
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Roger Pellett got a reaction from Canute in Using gloss additive (Vallejo paint)
You can make your own black paint with the exact amount of gloss that you want. Buy a tube of artist’s acrylic black and a bottle of acrylic gloss medium. A tube of white would also be useful for adding a “scale effect” to the black. Here in the US any craft store will stock these items. Start by squeezing out some black on a palette; a piece of glass is perfect. Mix in a little white to get the right scale color. Add a little gloss medium. When you’re happy with the result, mix up a larger batch, thin with water, and paint.
Roger
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Roger Pellett got a reaction from Jaager in Using gloss additive (Vallejo paint)
You can make your own black paint with the exact amount of gloss that you want. Buy a tube of artist’s acrylic black and a bottle of acrylic gloss medium. A tube of white would also be useful for adding a “scale effect” to the black. Here in the US any craft store will stock these items. Start by squeezing out some black on a palette; a piece of glass is perfect. Mix in a little white to get the right scale color. Add a little gloss medium. When you’re happy with the result, mix up a larger batch, thin with water, and paint.
Roger
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Roger Pellett got a reaction from mtaylor in Using gloss additive (Vallejo paint)
You can make your own black paint with the exact amount of gloss that you want. Buy a tube of artist’s acrylic black and a bottle of acrylic gloss medium. A tube of white would also be useful for adding a “scale effect” to the black. Here in the US any craft store will stock these items. Start by squeezing out some black on a palette; a piece of glass is perfect. Mix in a little white to get the right scale color. Add a little gloss medium. When you’re happy with the result, mix up a larger batch, thin with water, and paint.
Roger
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Roger Pellett got a reaction from Bob Cleek in Using gloss additive (Vallejo paint)
You can make your own black paint with the exact amount of gloss that you want. Buy a tube of artist’s acrylic black and a bottle of acrylic gloss medium. A tube of white would also be useful for adding a “scale effect” to the black. Here in the US any craft store will stock these items. Start by squeezing out some black on a palette; a piece of glass is perfect. Mix in a little white to get the right scale color. Add a little gloss medium. When you’re happy with the result, mix up a larger batch, thin with water, and paint.
Roger
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Roger Pellett reacted to wefalck in SMS Karlsruhe by Wreck1919 - 1/100
Valery, that means then that sailors where standing in front of the yard, rather than behind it, when they were tending to whatever they had to tend to?
Keith, double jack-stays became quite common particularly on the last deep-water sailing ships, when the massive steel yards would have meant that the upper part of the sails were actually lying on top of the yard and the foot-ropes were going around almost half of the yard. That part of the sail that lies on the yard doesn't pull, but would be subject to rot. So they move the jack-stay more forward.
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Roger Pellett got a reaction from Canute in Peerless 1893 by Cathead - 1:87 - sternwheel Missouri River steamboat
Some forum members, particularly those glazing the windows in the sterns of Nelson Era sailing ships use Mica. It supposedly cuts with scissors. Perhaps there’s some on your farm! Otherwise check Amazon.
Roger
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Roger Pellett got a reaction from mtaylor in Mini Bench Drill Press
The company that I worked for had a metallurgy lab for testing the effect of different hot bend temperatures and subsequent heat treat cycles on pipeline steels. A key requirement was impact strength. Charpy impact specimens make good lathe parallels as they were surface ground to close tolerances. There was always a bucket of unbroken specimens left over from testing a particular heat that were scrap.
Roger
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Roger Pellett got a reaction from mtaylor in Mini Bench Drill Press
Here’s a photo of the Sherline vise. Note, The socket headed cap screw that tightens the vice pulls down as well as in.
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Roger Pellett got a reaction from Canute in Making lifeboat small mast for 1:200 Yamato
Since you have posted this under metalworking it would seem that you are considering metal. Metal, particularly brass can be an excellent choice for very small parts as grain is not a factor. A piece of hard brass wire should work.
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Roger Pellett got a reaction from robert952 in New builder here, understanding the different types of wood in your kit???
For some, but by no means all kit manufacturers, the names given to these woods is little more than a marketing opportunity. Their advertising leads buyers to think that they are getting deluxe materials while in reality as Jaager points out the species offered would not be chosen by experienced scratch builders. As a general rule, the real premium ship building woods are slow growing species with tight, coded grain structure. Many fruit woods would qualify.
Roger
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Roger Pellett got a reaction from mtaylor in Cyclone-Class Destroyer 1902 by Valeriy V - scale 1:45 - Russian Imperial Navy
Great workmanship as usual Valeriy!
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Roger Pellett reacted to Jaager in Making lifeboat small mast for 1:200 Yamato
On Amazon, a productive search term is "brass Welding Wire Rods".
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Roger Pellett reacted to FlyingFish in Vigilance of Brixham (BM 76) by FlyingFish - 1:32
Yes Roger it's an unusual opportunity to learn from the actual rebuild- from what I've seen, you are correct in that the red tapes mark waterlines and buttocks although these do not correspond to the waterlines from the original surveyed linesplan. the architect appears to have reoriginated these when abandoning the stations to draw in the frames.
The stock was marked directly from the templates, and cut out on the ship saw.
The templates were supplied from the naval architect with all waterlines marked, including the DWL allowing each floor and futtock to be laid onto the grid accurately, and thanks to the powers of CAD grouped in 8' by 4' ply sheet format for best use of materials. Because I did not have these waterlines on my plans I had to re-originate my frames using my own waterlines which took a great deal of time.
The compound curves caused by the 6 degree offset required the frames to be chocked on the assembly floor, this also allowing access for the clamps. The bevel allowance was presumably marked by putting the fore and aft templates on top of one another and the resulting difference written on the template, as shown below where frame 29 port aft and fore sections are being assembled.
The Friends of Vigilance facebook site has a great week by week chronology of photogtaphs and commentry which shows all this in more detail here.
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Roger Pellett got a reaction from mtaylor in Hello from Seattle - looking to buy a built ship
When it comes to ship models I am a traditionalist in that the basis for any worthwhile model is its hull lines. In other words, does the shape of the model’s hull match that of the real ship being modeled? That is the first thing that you should check out. High quality decorations on a misshapen hull is putting lipstick on a pig.
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Roger Pellett got a reaction from mtaylor in Peerless 1893 by Cathead - 1:87 - sternwheel Missouri River steamboat
Some forum members, particularly those glazing the windows in the sterns of Nelson Era sailing ships use Mica. It supposedly cuts with scissors. Perhaps there’s some on your farm! Otherwise check Amazon.
Roger
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Roger Pellett got a reaction from mtaylor in Vigilance of Brixham (BM 76) by FlyingFish - 1:32
Ok, I think that I can see what’s going on. It would appear that the red orthogonal lines on the floor are permanent, representing the waterlines and buttocks in the end (body plan) view of the hull. Vertical markers are then set on the floor at strategic locations at offset locations known from the lofting. The framing segments are set against these markers. The templates can then be used as a final check and for marking additional information as needed. A clever system.
Roger
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Roger Pellett got a reaction from mtaylor in Vigilance of Brixham (BM 76) by FlyingFish - 1:32
Andy, A remarkable project; duplicating in miniature at more or less the same time that the full sized vessel Is being rebuilt near by.
I have a question about the two photos that you posted. Old shipbuilding texts, both for wooden and iron/steel construction mention the use of a “shrieve board” for assembling frames. This was apparently a large portable floor with all frame shapes scribed on. Your guys appear to be using a similar but different system. I see the waterlines and buttock lines forming a grid (red lines) on the floor. I also see the plywood template. Are the actual frame shapes marked directly on the floor as with the shreive board? I can’t see from the photo. Was the template used to mark the shape on the floor or is it used somewhere else in the assembly process.
Roger
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Roger Pellett got a reaction from Cathead in Peerless 1893 by Cathead - 1:87 - sternwheel Missouri River steamboat
Some forum members, particularly those glazing the windows in the sterns of Nelson Era sailing ships use Mica. It supposedly cuts with scissors. Perhaps there’s some on your farm! Otherwise check Amazon.
Roger
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Roger Pellett reacted to wefalck in Peerless 1893 by Cathead - 1:87 - sternwheel Missouri River steamboat
Yes, mica (or more precisely muscovite) can be easily cut with scissors or scalpels. It's one of the softest minerals actually.
I gather modellers of 18th or early 19th century ships use mica, because that is what was used often on the real ship. Mica as such is quite brittle, but when frames more elastic than glass. Also, before float-glass was invented, it was generally cheaper than glass.
Not sure, it will work here, as it usually has a slightly streaky texture - it is a mineral and not all the molecules are arranged perfectly.
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Roger Pellett got a reaction from FriedClams in Peerless 1893 by Cathead - 1:87 - sternwheel Missouri River steamboat
Some forum members, particularly those glazing the windows in the sterns of Nelson Era sailing ships use Mica. It supposedly cuts with scissors. Perhaps there’s some on your farm! Otherwise check Amazon.
Roger
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Roger Pellett reacted to Mark P in Orkney Shipwreck washed ashore
Thank you Morgan;
That is a really interesting picture. My immediate reaction is that it is 17th century, for two reasons:
Firstly, the underside of the floor timbers have notches in each timber for the limber passage.
Secondly, the futtocks appear to stop short of the keel, which is strongly indicative also. However, more photos would make it clearer. I will see if I can contact the chap who took the pictures.
The closeness of the timbers would also seem to indicate a warship, although I would not state that with any certainty.
I don't think it is a particularly large vessel, as the outer planking appears to be quite thin: 2-3 inches.
All the best,
Mark P
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Roger Pellett got a reaction from Canute in Seawatch Books Question
As an author of a published maritime history book, I feel that you guys are mistakenly picking on the publisher. Criticism of this sort should be directed at the author.
The author is responsible for the book’s content including factual errors. The publisher is responsible for turning the author’s manuscript into a book. The publisher will usually provide an Editor but these people are experts in English Grammar, not necessarily the book’s content. A good editor can do his or her Job without the author ever realizing that changes have been made.
Roger
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Roger Pellett got a reaction from mtaylor in Making lifeboat small mast for 1:200 Yamato
Since you have posted this under metalworking it would seem that you are considering metal. Metal, particularly brass can be an excellent choice for very small parts as grain is not a factor. A piece of hard brass wire should work.
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Roger Pellett got a reaction from FriedClams in Vigilance of Brixham (BM 76) by FlyingFish - 1:32
Ok, I think that I can see what’s going on. It would appear that the red orthogonal lines on the floor are permanent, representing the waterlines and buttocks in the end (body plan) view of the hull. Vertical markers are then set on the floor at strategic locations at offset locations known from the lofting. The framing segments are set against these markers. The templates can then be used as a final check and for marking additional information as needed. A clever system.
Roger
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