Roger Pellett

Zamuel,
 
Keep in mind that you are building a model representing a vessel built in 1578, not 1788 when rules were better established. As you probably know, two ships bracketing your time period have been salvaged and excavated- Mary Rose, sunk in 1545 and your Vasa in 1628. The deck planking on these early vessels looks very haphazard by later standards with very short planks, varying widths and the presence of "drop strakes" (a wide piece of planking abutting two narrow ones).
 
Today, Naval Atchitects treat deck plating as a major strength element to resist longitudinal bending of the hull girder, but this was not the case in the 1600's and before. The many elevation changes caused by the many short decks fore and aft would have limited the deck's effectiveness as a strength member had builders at the time even understood the concept. The need for some sort on planking rules in the late 1500's were, therefore, not necessary, and probably not understood.
 
As your Revenge kit is undoubtedly a reconstruction of a historic vessel for which no plans exist use the kit materials to develop a pattern that looks convincing. No one can say that you're wrong.
 
 
 
Roger

Good Morning, returns after a long time that I have been many less boats.
I worked on ventilation and applied non-slip surface and we're done aft cabin.
I used to slip surface sadpaper .
All the best .

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 194 – Lower Masts continued
 
Previous posts showed the fore top completed and the other two constructed but not yet fitted with rigging connections.  None had yet been installed on the masts, which remain loose from the model.  The plan is to complete construction of the lower masts, then fit the tops with chains, deadeyes and futtock shrouds and then permanently step the masts.
 
The mizzen mast is lagging behind the larger two.  In the first picture the hounds have been fit and the mortises for the bibbs, have been roughed out,
 

 
The metal work is all left unblackened until the handling of construction is finished.  In the next picture one of the bibbs is being glued on.
 

 
The top of the hounds assembly will be filed off to the correct rake angle later.  The assembly will then be fitted with its 22 simulated bolts, rounded and sanded smooth.
 
In the next picture the completed fore top has been glued to the hounds.
 

 
Bolts and rigging connections may be seen in the picture. 
 
With the top fitted over, the next step was to trim out the masthead.  In the next picture the bolsters on either side of the mast have been installed and and excess glue is being washed from the newly fitted chafing battens.
 

 
The bolsters provided a rounded bed for the shrouds, but on the model they also strengthen the connection of the top.  The glued joints to the hounds under the trestletrees are end grain joints, so the added strength from the bolsters is helpful.  I avoided drilling bolt holes through the trestletrees astride the mast.
 
The last picture shows the completed fore top.  In addition to the bolsters and the chafing battens, thumb cleats have been fitted to each side of the head. 
 
 

 
The wood thumb cleats will support the strapping of a bullseye that will redirect the main topgallant stay downward to the eyebolt just behind the lower masthead.  The battens and the cleats are bolted with small-size (.014") monofilament.  The entire top, including the ironwork has been given a coat of thinned Tung oil.
 
 
Ed

Another

Thanks, Rob. It's an interesting design.
 
Roger

I have never seen the two diameter mast design before. Is the smaller diameter mast instead of a fidded topmost?
 
Roger

Ed,
 
I experimented with spinning these on a lathe using a male die and pressure from the tailstock. It formed a nice flare on the tube.
 
Roger

Once you have produced a set of body sections drawn from your waterlines, you can extend diagonal lines across the body sections, from the centerline down at angles so that the diagonal lines intersect the body sections at as close to right angles as possible.
 
Then, measuring down each line to each body section, plot those distances on your half breadth plan at each station line, opposite the waterlines and connect the dots much like you did on the waterlines. The diagonal lines on the half breadth will not have any concave curves in them because they cross the body sections at, or nearly at, right angles. There may be areas that approach a straight line, but other than that, the lines will have some convexity. It is the result of the diagonal lines in the body sections crossing at nearly right angles to the body sections.
 
These diagonal lines in the half breadth will show you where you have unexpected humps or dips in the body sections, and thus in the waterlines. I would also include three buttock lines as well. Thus, using the waterlines, buttocks, and diagonals, you can correct each, checking back and forth for each body section, until you have faired the drawing. It is a time consuming and painstaking process, but it is the best way to produce a plan from which you can build.
 
Russ

there have been several books written about HMS Trincomalee. A used copy of one titles Trincomalee, Nelson's Last Frigate is available on Amazon for about $18; The title is of course a misnomer as Nelson died 12 years before this vessel was built. I don't own this book but those who do give it four stars. I a.gree with Charlie- build her from scratch.
 
Roger

Ed,
 
I experimented with spinning these on a lathe using a male die and pressure from the tailstock. It formed a nice flare on the tube.
 
Roger

Ed,
 
I experimented with spinning these on a lathe using a male die and pressure from the tailstock. It formed a nice flare on the tube.
 
Roger

Ed,
 
I experimented with spinning these on a lathe using a male die and pressure from the tailstock. It formed a nice flare on the tube.
 
Roger

there have been several books written about HMS Trincomalee. A used copy of one titles Trincomalee, Nelson's Last Frigate is available on Amazon for about $18; The title is of course a misnomer as Nelson died 12 years before this vessel was built. I don't own this book but those who do give it four stars. I a.gree with Charlie- build her from scratch.
 
Roger

Jeff I am glad that this was useful for you.
 
I finished the turning of the stanchions this morning, here is a Step by step of the process.
 
The form tool was used to create 6 bulbs The bulb diameter is .065" and the shaft diameter is .045"  the bulbs are on .085 centres. The top bulb was trimmed to its center on the top side to accept the handrail.
 

 

 

 

 
the form tool was switched for the narrow tool to finish off the bottom, the lowest bulb was trimmed on both sides to create the foot.
 

 

 
Next a #4 file was used to create the small taper at the bottom
 

 
next the stanchion was separated with the jewelers the lathe was stopped for this operation
 

 
The finished stanchions, a few of the first ones had some minor variations so a few extras were turned up to replace them. I will leave the set up on the lathe until I have made sure that I do not need to make any more.
 

 
Next comes the drilling.
 
Michael
 

Cleats and Pulley Blocks:-
 
On the inside of the bulwarks are cleats for attaching the fenders. 5 per side. They are fairly simple with a single central mount.
 

 
I decided to have a go at making the pulley blocks. I have not made wooden pulley blocks before and decided it was worth having a try. The fall back position is buying them. Altair has single double and triple pulleys and I decided that 2 or possibly 3 sizes would cover the range needed. I started by sketching out the designs. 
 

 
I decided to start with the middle sized pulley block 0.2 x 0.3 inch. I need a number so decided to build them as a single unit which would allow 1,2 and 3 pulley versions to be parted off as required.
 
I started by slotting mahogany and then cutting strips to the width of the finished pulley. I made a mistake on one of the slots - adding up becomes more difficult with age!!!!! I also cut the square block from which the walls of the pulleys would be formed.
 


 
I drilled the square block to take the pulley spindle. This was a step too far as the drill was much too flexible and wandered off. Next time I will drill the spindle hole once the pulley has been formed and separated off.
 


 
The wall section were slit off from the drilled block, and assembly commenced using PVA glue.
 



 
Once the assembly was complete shaping commenced. I made a concave sanding block to assist control of the shaping operation.
 


 
The assembly is now sanded to shape and awaiting further operations.
 


 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

The sponson have been glued on, plus the transom fashion piece that completes the timberwork of the sponsons around the stern. The hatches also located, there's some more deck timberwork - some spray rails, toe rails etc,
 
Looking like a boat now.
 
thanks, Mark
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

No phone. I'm a holdout.

Bob, I used the microwav to bend a piece of 1/8 x 2/16in pear the other day. It worked fine. I also have a wooden steam box powered by a "Wagner Power (wallpaper) Steamer) that I built for steaming canoe ribs and planking but it is a hassle to set it up for a little model part.
 
By the way, if you can build a model like YA the way you are doing it, you don't need to lie about your golf game!
 
Roger

Bob, Rather than messing with a steam box get a plastic or glass pan of water, soak your wood in it and then nuke it, wood, pan, and water in your microwave. Cook it long enough to full boil for several minutes. Works great!
 
Roger

Thanks, Rob. It's an interesting design.
 
Roger

Doris,
 
    I am glad you reconsidered building the CONSTITUTION as your first build.  Very often when people start out with something like that as their first build, it ends up being their last build.  It is quite a challenge.
 
    I agree with Gary in that models like SULTANA, NEWSBOY or BEN'j LATHAM make good starter models.  IF you have  experience, SYREN might be good, but it is still something more than a starter kit.
 
   I like SULTANA.  It is very basic and lets you work with all the skill sets you would need to do a CONSTITUTION, but in an easier format.
 

 

 
    SULTANA is a solid hull.  I found it difficult to work with, but it is easy to make a better hull by using the body/sheer plan that comes with the kit and making the hull using bread and butter method, or making your own bulkheads (or a combination as I did).  If you don't have the skills to do that, in my opinion you don't have the skill set to tackle the CONSTITUTION.  Just sayin'.
 
    I believe that if two people with the same skill level started building (1) SULTANA and (2) Model Expo CONSTITUTION, the SULTANA builder would be pretty much done by the time the CONSTITUTION was planked.  If they were beginner modelers, the SULTANA builder would be planning his/her next build while the CONSTITUTION builder would be thinking about getting into model railroading.
 
   Anywho, my 2 cents worth.....

Mike,
 
I looked at Chapelle's History of the American Sailing Navy and History of American Sailing Ships as well as Coffins of the Brave to see what I could find. The US Navy did build several two masted lateen rigged "row galleys" in the very late 1700's and early 1800's. Some of these fought in the war of 1812, on the Chesapeake and on Lake Champaign. Gunboats also fought on Lake Ponchatrain but I don't know which design. As noted above the galley Allen was excavated on Lake Champlain and another on the Chesapeake near Badensberg, MD. An archeology report for the MD gunboat is available on the Internet.
 
I could find no design (Chapelle) or archeology report that represents the model that you are building. The long head and protruding stern platform are anachronisms. The American gunboats were double ended.
 
It would appear that the kit manufacturer either copied a Mediterranean design or imagined one and called it an American gunboat for marketing purposes.
 
Roger

I have never seen the two diameter mast design before. Is the smaller diameter mast instead of a fidded topmost?
 
Roger

Wefalck I have done the end mill out of broken drills too, in fact I have broken drills on purpose to get a particular diameter of end mill Mostly I have done this with number drills.
 
This drill however I sharpened by eye on my diamond stone like this.
 

 

 
And a better pic of the stanchions.
 

 
Michael

Mike,
 
I looked at Chapelle's History of the American Sailing Navy and History of American Sailing Ships as well as Coffins of the Brave to see what I could find. The US Navy did build several two masted lateen rigged "row galleys" in the very late 1700's and early 1800's. Some of these fought in the war of 1812, on the Chesapeake and on Lake Champaign. Gunboats also fought on Lake Ponchatrain but I don't know which design. As noted above the galley Allen was excavated on Lake Champlain and another on the Chesapeake near Badensberg, MD. An archeology report for the MD gunboat is available on the Internet.
 
I could find no design (Chapelle) or archeology report that represents the model that you are building. The long head and protruding stern platform are anachronisms. The American gunboats were double ended.
 
It would appear that the kit manufacturer either copied a Mediterranean design or imagined one and called it an American gunboat for marketing purposes.
 
Roger