G.L.
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Everything posted by G.L.
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3.14 The sternpost and the stern timbers and deadwood are made in the same way as the forward parts. Grooves have to be made in the deadwood to place the 8 half frames.
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3.13 I soak the sticks for a while in water (± 30 min) and then pull them through the successive holes in the plate until the desired diameter is reached.
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3.12 I wait until the cut off stems become yellow (takes some months) and saw them between the knuckles into hollow pipes. The pipes can be split easily into sticks with a knife. A little tic on the knife with a hammer may help. Split the sticks further as close as possible to the needed diameter for the treenail.
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3.11 The treenails are made with bamboo from our garden.
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3.10 The last thing to do is gluing the whole assembly together and fixing the deadwood with the keel and the apron with the stem with treenails.
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3.9 For the forward deadwood I glue four oversized planks on each other. On top of it I glue with rubber-cement a paper with the shape of the deadwood. I saw the deadwood with the fretsaw.
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3.8 Determining the shape of the knee is a little more difficult as for the apron because the knee is round. I take for the upper shape the lower profile of the apron and for the after shape the profile of the first station. I use the sand disk to give the knee shape mostly at random between the two profiles.
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3.7 I saw the stem knee out of a block.
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3.6 The apron is shaped accordingly the waterlines.
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3.5 The stem is fit with at tap for a strong fastening with the keel. Although the picture is hazy, you can see the rabbet for the hull planks. On the next picture the stem is provisionally set on the keel.
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3.4 The 18 square frames will be sunk in the keel in floor seatings. I mark the placement of all square frames on the keel assembly an saw them out.
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3.3 Now the rabbet for the lowest hull plank has to be cut. The angle of that plank varies along the different stations. I make a scraper for every 5 stations between the stations 9 and 26 and scrape the rabbet along the keel changing the scraper every 5 stations.
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3.2 I made the keel, the stem and the stern simultaneously but I will deal with one after the other in this report for clearness' sake. The keel is made in two parts with a keyed hook scarf in the middle. I saw the scarf with the fretsaw. The scarf is keyed with two wedges. The two parts of the keel are glued together. Once dry, I saw the wedges along the keel and sand them.
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Part 3: Making keel and stems 3.1 Time to get to work now. The wood that I use is provided by my garden. Many years ago I planted a cherry tree in the garden, when the tree started to bear fruit, it were plums instead of cherries. Two years ago I made finally the decision and removed the tree and replaced it by a real cherry tree. The wood is dry now and ready to be sawn and planed into planks. Remark afterwards: After completing stems, keel and frames I made some samples of the finishing color for the planking an discovered that the plum wood did not give a finishing result that I liked. Therefore for the planking of the hull I changed to oak, the wood which was in reality used to build the Flemish shrimpers.
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Ladder finally in position, darkened and varnished.
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Before gluing the ladder in to its spot, I color it with dark stain. On the picture you see the bitts which I colored simultaneously.
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Before the glue is entirely dry, I place the ladder in to his position in the model (not yet gluing it fast), so the glue can harden further while the ladder has its final shape.
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To glue them together, I use a very simple jig of some strips of wood held parallel with clamps on the correct intervals.
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I check them out on the model.
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I saw the stringers out of the planks in the angle I determined before on the model.
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The stringers are 2.5 mm thick, so I plane two planks to that thickness (2 because there have to be made 2 stringers in mirror image). I set my table saw for a thickness of ±1.2 mm and saw the grooves for the steps. Some time ago I made a simple table saw sled on which I glued a piece of millimeter paper, that makes it easy to saw the groves exactly parallel and with the correct intervals.
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I will now make the forward hatch ladder. Because there is always a slight difference between the plans and the execution of those plans, I take the dimensions of the ladder immediately from the model.
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Glad You like it. Thank you , Dereck
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Patrick, Looks great! If I was You I would also treenail below the waterline, just for completeness. Looks me a nice job for a Sunday afternoon in a comfortable and heated hobby room like yours with some good music at the background. G.L.
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2.15 Last winter (winter 2015-2016) I completed another two drawings of the assembly of the keel, stem, stern and frames.
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