G.L.

On my Proxxon saw table I like to use a table saw sledge on which a millimeter paper is glued with the 0 mm line exactly on the saw blade edge. With the help of that sledge it is easy to saw 3 mm wide grooves of 1.5 mm deep at 3 mm intervals.

Planking the front side of the for castle.


 
Everything went according to plan. Until I discovered a mistake. 
How could I miss something as stupid as this? On one side I'm 3 mm (slightly less than 1 / 8th inch) out of center.
Fortunately, the adhesive was not completely cured. So, cutting with a Stanley knife and breaking apart was still posible.

 
Sawing the frame so that it can bend.

 
gluing and clamping
 
 
Back to planking again and treenailing.

 
Ready

 
Thanks for following

The construction of the holes for the anchor cable.
As mentioned earlier, on most ships from this time I only find 2 holes (1 on each side).
For the dimensions and appearance I based myself on drawings and paintings from that time.
 
 

Hello guys,
after a long time I am now back again in the forum. In the last three months there had been a lot of interesting jobs, two journeys and also time for modelling. But not enough time to post. With other words: time for modelling or time for posting. But now I will show you Utrecht today and of course some of the work steps .
 
Some pics from the rigg and the blocks
 
The main halliyard blocks
 


 
Gaff

The vang blocks
 

 

Many thanks to my Admiral for sewing the sails

 
the mainsheet
 


Jibbhalliyard
 

 
In / outhaul
 

 

The anchor
 

 

Regards Hartmut
 
 
 
 

12.16
Cabin entrance set into its spot. I do not glue it yet, I want to wait until all the deck gear is colored. It is located a bit right of mid ship to allow to pull the jib boom backwards.

Finally the Christmas season is over and I could continue shipbuilding. The next item was deck building. From previous projects nice scale 0,5 mm aluminum chequerplate was left over, so I decided to use that for the deck. But unfortunately the left overs were soon consumed, and more plate had to be bought from a company in Germany.
The deck consists of many plates, of which I made carefully garboard templates first, and only after satisfied with them, cut the final plates with jeweler`s saw and very fine blade.
Deck plates will be sprayed first with etch primer, and after that painted with green paint. Nobody knows the original color of the deck, but during the sixties it has been painted green, so I will use that.
 
After the deck plates were made, I started to make the main deck upper structures. They have to be very light to keep the center of gravity as low as possible, so I decided to make them of 1 mm aircraft quality birch plywood and 0,6 mm veneer. First I thought to build internal structures too like chairs, benches, tables, etc, but they would add too much weight to the upper parts of the ship, so I decided to omit them and build only the walls.
 
 
Deck building was started from stern. This plate will be removable, in order to get into upper end of rudder axle, if necessary. Other plates will be glued permanently into the hull.

 
 
 
Half of the deck made. At this point I was run out of the chequerplate and more had to be bought. The supply from Germany was not so fast as anticipated, so there must have been long Christmas holidays also in Germany.

 
 
 
 
Finally new plates arrived and work could continue.

 
 
 
 
Upper structure walls for main deck were built using 1 mm birch plywood and 0,6 mm birch veneer.

 
 
 
The sternmost structures on the main deck ready waiting for details and staining. Mahogany colored stain was used.

 
 
Door handles and hinges were made of styrene, painted with brass colour and glued into doors.

 
 

Thank You Michael.
I discovered recently your Bristol pilot boat log. That is ship modelling at a whole different level. It is clear that I have still a lot to learn. It is thanks to logs like yours that we can continue improving our skills.
 
G.L.

11.6
When the model is fully planked. I lay some weights on the deck and let everything dry. When the glue is dry, I scrape the planks smooth with a knife blade.

Thank You Michael.
I discovered recently your Bristol pilot boat log. That is ship modelling at a whole different level. It is clear that I have still a lot to learn. It is thanks to logs like yours that we can continue improving our skills.
 
G.L.

John,
 
Thank you very much for your comment.
 
G.L.

11.7
The deck is finished with tree nails and then sanding, sanding and sanding...

11.7
The deck is finished with tree nails and then sanding, sanding and sanding...

11.7
The deck is finished with tree nails and then sanding, sanding and sanding...

11.6
When the model is fully planked. I lay some weights on the deck and let everything dry. When the glue is dry, I scrape the planks smooth with a knife blade.

11.5
I start the planking from amidships and use a lath to glue the first planks in a straight line. At the sides and the heads of each plank I glue black cardboard strips to imitate the caulking. As the planking reaches the sides of the boat they can been cut into the waterways.

11.4
The waterways in place, but not glued. The inner edge is not yet shaped. I will do that while laying the deck planks.

The stempost is also reconstructed.
To be honest... The first attempt was not really a success and did not survive the construction process of the hull. He was broken off and is now made new again.

 
After sanding and put into the right shape (planking of the forcastle is started).

 
Thanks for following

3.8
Determining the shape of the knee  is a little more difficult as for the apron because the knee is round. I take for the upper shape the lower profile of the apron and for the after shape the profile of the first station. I use the sand disk to give the knee shape mostly at random between the two profiles.

3.7
I saw the stem knee out of a block.

3.4
The 18 square frames will be sunk in the keel in floor seatings. I mark the placement of all square frames on the keel assembly an saw them out.

3.3
Now the rabbet for the lowest hull plank has to be cut. The angle of that plank varies along the different stations. I make a scraper for every 5 stations between the stations 9 and 26 and scrape the rabbet along the keel changing the scraper every 5 stations.

3.2
I made the keel, the stem and the stern simultaneously but I will deal with one after the other in this report for clearness' sake.
The keel is made in two parts with a keyed hook scarf in the middle. I saw the scarf with the fretsaw. The scarf is keyed with two wedges. The two parts of the keel are glued together. Once dry, I saw the wedges along the keel and sand them.

Part 3: Making keel and stems
3.1
Time to get to work now. The wood that I use is provided by my garden. Many years ago I planted a cherry tree in the garden, when the tree started to bear fruit, it were plums instead of cherries. Two years ago I made finally the decision and removed the tree and replaced it by a real cherry tree. The wood is dry now and ready to be sawn and planed into planks.
Remark  afterwards: After completing stems, keel and frames I made some samples of the finishing color for the planking an discovered that the plum wood did not give a finishing result that I liked. Therefore for the planking of the hull I changed to oak, the wood which was in reality used to build the Flemish shrimpers.

2.8
When I place all the tracing papers one after another between two plates of glass with a strong light behind it, I have already an impression of the interior of the hull.

2.3
Connecting all those measurements with a smooth curved line gives me the shape of the frame.