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Everything posted by aydingocer
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Bathroom doors. One pair per bathroom. They are made of 0.4mm photo etched brass, to be bent to match the curvature of the bathroom cabinet. The bathroom doors are identical regardless of the cabin numbers therefore I build all 10 at once. Figure 155, 156: I use my DSPIAE photo etched roller for this purpose. I tried first with a scrap piece of same thickness and decided to use the 16mm curvature. Figure 157: I press with my both hands on the steel cylinder as hard as I can. Figure 158: I over-bent the parts and then widened the curvature by soft hits with a hammer, until it aligns with the structure.
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Figure 152: The was basins. They are made of die cast metal. I paint them to white as instructed. I see some videos where the builder has painted the taps to silver color, but I will leave them white just like in the instruction manual. I haven't made a research but I guess they were more likely white porcelain, instead of metal. Look more elegant in white.
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Next, construction of the bathrooms. This is another exciting chapter. There are altogether 10 bathrooms in the shape of a quarter cylinder. The bathroom is only a sink with toilet amenities. Otherwise the wagon has only one common toilet. There are altogether 10 bathrooms. Their construction differ slightly depending on where they are located. This means three different constructions: Those for cabins 2,4,6,8 are identical, similarly those for cabins 1,3,5,7 and finally cabin 10 alone. I start with the first group just like in the instructions: 2,4,6,8. It goes without saying that the parts are so similar yet they are different, one must always mark them before removing from their places. A slight mistake will guarantee some size of a disaster. Figure 147: Parts lined up. These are for the foundation structure. Figures 148, 149: First parts installed.
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Laying the carpets. In a real construction I am sure the carpets are installed after everything else, not while even the walls are not complete.😃 Figure 143: Carefully mark the numbers on all the parts, lay them in correct orientation and align them with matching carpets (i.e. paper). They are so similar it is very easy to get them mixed up. Figure 144: I use this paper glue stick. Not because anything special about it. I just found this in the local supermarket. Works well and is much more convenient than working with liquid white glue on large surfaces. Figure 145: If you have been very careful with gluing the walls, these carpet parts will fit in their places like a glove. I didn't have to any adjustments. They just snapped in their places. That's all for today! Thanks for watching!
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BUILD DAY 13: 1 hr (TOTAL: 33 hrs) My previous method of flattening this warped part did not work very well (see Figures 138, 139 above). I had soaked it, then clamped between two wooden pieces and even put in the oven 50 degrees (celcius) for several hours, but it was still warped, though less, after it dried. So here is what I did: I soaked it in warm water for about an hour, then laid it on a wooden flat surface, then used my hot strip bender to treat the curvy surfaces locally. The pen marks on the piece are where the curves are. After treating those, I rolled the bender on all the areas while flipping the piece frequently until it is totally dry. The hot treatment took about half an hour. But finally it was well worth the effort. Figure 141: Figure 142: The piece, laying flat after treatment.
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Hi Duncan, Well well, so many years have passed since then and I can't really remember. I have glanced through my build log and all I can say is that I guess I followed the order instruction manual. If I remember correct the instructions are branching for radio control option to explain what to do. If you think some things are easier to install before the planking, then just go ahead. You may just want to cover your electronic stuff with a masking tape or something like that against dust, dirt and glue drops during planking. Best, Aydin
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