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aydingocer

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Everything posted by aydingocer

  1. Figure 137: The build depends a lot on which side you are working therefore I used a tape to label the Head-A. The previous pencil mark disappeared under the paint.
  2. Gluing the tankers in place. Figure 130: For the cylinder one, you'll need to file a little bit to fit it in place.
  3. BUILD DAY 11: 2 hrs (TOTAL: 30 hrs) Buffers and leaf springs installed in place. Figure 126: More filing to enlarge the holes. Figure 127, 128, 129: Several pictures showing the setup.
  4. Figure 125: Finally now I am able to paint the bottom section. I used matt black in spray can.
  5. Hi Duncan, Well well, so many years have passed since then and I can't really remember. I have glanced through my build log and all I can say is that I guess I followed the order instruction manual. If I remember correct the instructions are branching for radio control option to explain what to do. If you think some things are easier to install before the planking, then just go ahead. You may just want to cover your electronic stuff with a masking tape or something like that against dust, dirt and glue drops during planking. Best, Aydin
  6. I follow the instructions. Most of the time I fold them so that the grooves face inwards (instructions call them "the cut lines"). Some are bent inwards, some outwards, and in some cases a part can be bent both ways (i.e. one edge of the part bent opposite direction to fold of the other edge) Here (Figure 21) they are bent inwards: Here (Figure 83) they are bent outwards:
  7. Figure 119: Alright, I have now installed the control system and repainted the bogies with my airbrush. Installation of screws and nuts did not go perfectly at every spot, e.g. sometimes I had to use superglue where I couldn't fit the nuts, but I am overall happy with the result. As per the discussion about the paint on the wheels touch surface, I don't know yet if I will remove the paint on those surfaces or not. At least this way, they are compliant with the instruction manual. I guess I will stop now for a few days. The missing L-profile, which acts as a support for the body work, has been dispatched by Amati and is on the way. It should arrive during the week. I need it in order to continue. I am also rather busy with other daily work. That's all for today! Thanks for watching!
  8. Figure 118: Preparing for airbrush paint. This is a nice tool I bought on Amazon. I had been missing something like this for my paint jobs. Very handy indeed. It also has a storage, you can store the sticks in it when not in use. The crocodile clamps come with removable rubber covers (removed for this purpose) for grabbing sensitive parts without harming.
  9. Figure 113: Parts layout for the wheel control system, on the manual... Figure 114: ... and on my workbench.
  10. BUILD DAY 8: 4 hrs (TOTAL: 27 hrs) Figure 112 : A close-up to the brakes. Not all 16 of them came up this neat 🙂. This particular one in the photo has been my best installation of the inner-side brake shoes. At least with my skill set, even after so many done, it still feels pure luck to put those tiny nuts and bolts correctly. 🤣
  11. A good news today is from Amati. They have just dispatched the missing part from the box. It is a brass L profile for the sides of the body structure. Because of the lack of it I couldn’t proceed as planned, I had switched to building the bogies in the meantime. Now the bogies are almost ready and the package should arrive sometime next week, just in time to resume the body work. Thanks Amati.
  12. Thanks for the good tip, Yves! I will actually go through the entire painting details on the bogies once they are fully ready. There are many unpainted small parts as well as scratches caused by using tools. I’ll keep your points in mind then. I use acrylic paint hence removing it off the metal surface should not be a big deal, hopefully.
  13. Figure 111: First brake shoe installed. When installed it swings freely on the bolt. I used superglue to fix it in position, just as close and parallel to the wheel. The brake shoes on the outer side are rather easy to install. However those on the inner parts are very very tricky to even fit at first place, let alone insert the bolt, tighten the nut and glue to the right position. My recommendation to a builder reading these pages would be to consider installing the brake shoes before installing the wheels. That's all for today! Thanks for watching!
  14. Figure 110: Brake shoes, consisting of two parts assembled with nut and bolt. There will be 16 of them, one pair for each wheel. In the middle you see one of them assembled.
  15. Figure 108: Testing the bogies together on the rail to ensure that they are aligned. If one is higher than the other, then there is a risk you'll fall from your bed in the night due to inclination 🤣. So far looks fine and I can glue the bearing blocks holding the rods in place.
  16. Figure 107: Wheels dry fit. The wheels are not supposed to be glued. They should rotate freely and independently. The rod will stay still. This is needed especially for the rod above, which is connected to the dynamo via a brass belt. I see some build videos in Youtube gluing everything to the wheels including the brake shoes (to come later in this log). Such approach is only for in case you are absolutely sure you are building a fully static version, in which the wheels will not move!
  17. Figure 106: This wheel set differs from the other three by the additional wheel on the rod. It is for the belt turning the dynamo.
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