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aydingocer

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  1. aydingocer
    Instructions suggest that you stop after 7-8 lines of plank and continue from bottom (i.e. from the keel upwards). This is the status after 7 lines:
  2. aydingocer
    Build Day: 4-5 5 hours in two days, 12 hours in total. Looking at my latest post, it has been a while. It has just been work, some trips and other stuff, so luckily nothing bad to prevent from building. Anyway, here is the progress. The strips need to be both tapered in order to sit flush with the strip above it (as usual method) as well as made thinner, in order to sit in the rebate, at the ends: This way they ft quite nicely in their positions:
  3. aydingocer
    Build Day: 3 1:30 hours today, 7 hours in total. After a break of trips, holidays and Christmas, I continued today with planking. Glued 3rd row of planking strips in both sides. These are a bit critical ones since they are actually almost the first ones to get the support from the bulkheads. The 2 rows of strips above are mostly glued only to the keel and are barely touching the bulkheads, which will be removed later. That's why these 3rd row planks have also the task to support the two strips above them as well. For that reason, after gluing them I stopped to ensure I wait until they are fully dried and settled. Thanks for watching.
  4. aydingocer
    Planking starts. According to the instructions, the most realistic way of proceeding is to use two strips per row, starting at both ends and meeting in the middle. This is apparently how the boats are build in real. The "middle" will vary at each row between bulkheads 6 and 7. So, if the 2 strips of the first row meet at bulkhead 6, the strips in the row below it will meet in bulkhead 7, the next ones at bulkhead 6 .. and so on. The first planking has been the trickiest, even though it didn't need any tapering. The thing is that they can be glued only in both ends (since I cannot glue it on the bulkheads and I want to avoid using nails as much as I can). Starting from the 2nd row, it gets easier since now you can glue the strip to the one above it. This is the end of Build Day 2. 5:30 hours in total so far. Thanks for watching.
  5. aydingocer
    One quick observation with the laser cut plywood sheets: Laser cuts do not always go all the way through the other side of the plywood. In such cases you'll have to use your knife to be able to remove them smoothly: Bulkheads removed and cleaned: Bulkheads placed on the building slip, as addressed in the instructions. No glues used here: Keel inserted into bulkheads, fixed using super glue: Bulkheads tapered where needed: Some sections of the bulkheads will be removed later, once planking has been complete. These sections are indicated with pre-cut dotted lines on them. Those sections have been covered with masking tape to make it easier to detach from the plank strip. Instructions also say you alternatively use wax on those sections:
  6. aydingocer
    Next, rabbet recess cuts on front and beck. They should be 1mm deep with 45 degress opening. This is really nice because the lines were already marked and pre-cut:
  7. aydingocer
    First work on the keel is to glue walnut strips along its edges in order to cover the laser cut marks. Instructions tell not to remove the rudder cutout at this moment, therefore no glue should be on that part, in order to make it easy to remove later:
  8. aydingocer
    Build day 2 - Construction of bulkheads and keel The boat has its own building slip to help work accurately and easily. Two pieces in the middle are there temporarily to ensure vertical alignment. These pieces will be glued to either ends of the slip later on:
  9. aydingocer
    BUILD DAY 1 - Preperation This was a short day. The plywood sheets had been warped quite visibly. I used weights (boxes of DVD and books) to get them flat overnight.
  10. aydingocer
    Hello Dear fellow forum members, Having finished my Riva Aquarama and waiting for the days with better weather (read: summer) in Finland to take it to her maiden voyage in water, I have now switched my attention to building a model of a classical yet beautiful boat from my homeland, Turkey. Here are some bullet points about the kit: I am actually glad to notice that this model is not new to this forum. Here is a nice blog from an earlier build, by kutaykara: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/5571-bosphorus-sandal-by-kutaykara-finished-tershane-model-scale-116-1950-classic-turkish-boat/?hl=bosphorus I don't think that the kit is widely available worldwide. I ordered it from a Turkish model boat website www.maketistan.com. The price is a little bit less than USD.100. I actually built this kit about 10 years ago (see my signature) but this time I wanted to make it better and also have a blog of it. I had met the designer of the kit, Mr. Kudret Altinkeser, who is a pioneer dedicated his life to model boats, in his atelier in Istanbul. He has designed several other great kits from Turkey commercially available. The kit is 1:16 scale, 44,3cm x 11,8cm x 9cm in dimensions. Throughout the build I will try to give more facts about this nice boat as much as I can. Now some photos and start of the build, but first of all unboxing: This is outside the box Accessories, in their own set plastic bag: Wooden strips: Laser cut parts in plywood sheets: Instruction manual consists of 2 piles of stapled A4 sheets (Credits Kudret Altinkeser): One of them contains step by step instructions and the other one includes photos. Even though the instructions are only in Turkish, I believe the photos give enough guidance for any modeller with a moderate level of experience. That's all. Build starts with the next post.
  11. aydingocer
    Yes, you saw right. The blue tape has a gap at a couple of spots. I plan to glue those gaps and coat the entire tape with a thin layer of z-poxy.
  12. aydingocer
    When headlights are switched on:
  13. aydingocer
    Build day 48. Finishing the looks. 1 hour today. 140 hours into build in total. Thanks a lot for the good wishes and appraisals! I can't wait for the maiden voyage either but it may unfortunately have to wait until better weather conditions. Right now it is well below freezing point, which is not the most convenient weather for it . I hope, though, to be able to perform some floating and balance etc tests, in a bathtub or similar. Today I installed the side metal bars and only the the radio control connections are remaining. I will probably have time to do them next weekend. Other than that, my Riva is ready, at least by the looks! I will continue posting as long as there is anything worth sharing with other parts like radio setup and floating tests, but until then thanks for watching and have a good time! Here are some final photos for enjoyment!
  14. aydingocer
    End of Build day 47. 3 hours today. 139 hours into build in total. Well, this is the result of today. I will install the side lines tomorrow, once the paint has dried. Not much work left really. After this, it will be installing the radio control units. Here are some photos for your enjoyment. Thanks for watching.
  15. aydingocer
    While the paint is drying, I wanted to build the base of my Aquarama. This is also by Amati, ordered from snmodels.com: Pieces glued, waiting to dry (about 24 hours):
  16. aydingocer
    Side frames (those which will go along the edge of the deck. Apparently in the earlier versions of the kit they were supplied in metal, while in the new version which I have they are in plastic. I assume it will make it easier to install and with a good paint job they will look like metal: Sprayed with glossy chrome paint. Waiting to dry:
  17. aydingocer
    Headlight frames. The lightbulb sockets in the photo will not be used as I have installed real LEDs. Glued acetate: Headlight frames glued and nailed in place:
  18. aydingocer
    If you have checked my earlier posts, I had installed the exhaust pipe frames without nails due to a mistake I made in the order of installation, i.e. I had glued the exhaust pipe before installing the frame, making it hard to hammer the nails. Now I have the necessary tool and it is time to hammer those nails:
  19. aydingocer
    Aquarama logo on the dashboard as well as Riva logo on the sides of the hull:
  20. aydingocer
    Build day 47. Almost there... Nowadays due to busy work schedule the weekends are the only days I can only spare time for my Aquarama. Excitement builds up as the end comes closer. First thing today, the steering wheel in place: Then, the trays at the back of the front seats: 1. Detach the mahogany frames: 2. Sand away the laser cut burns (in the photo you see both cleaned and uncleaned): 3. Stain the frames: 4. Detach the photo etched grills and glue them to the frames: 5. Trays in place (so are the front seats):
  21. aydingocer
    Oh, I learned something today
  22. aydingocer
    That's a good idea, too. For that, I'll have to buy a nail pusher I have something like this (photo googled from internet), to hit with hammer in the final few milimeters:
  23. aydingocer
    End of Build day 46. 6 hours today. 136 hours into build in total. Overall quite a productive day at least from model ship building point of view. This is the status at the end of the day. Thanks for watching.
  24. aydingocer
    Gas levers. There are altogether 4 of them. 2 on the dashboard and 2 on the left side of the cockpit. The latter ones have to be chopped (like in the photo below): Compass, installed similar way as the dashboard frames:
  25. aydingocer
    Steering wheel. NOTE: The instructions sometimes deviate quite a lot from the parts which come with the kit, I guess due to the version updates the kit has gone through in years. I would appreciate if they would update the instruction manual, too, to match the new list of parts. The steering wheel is one example. It comes in a single piece in the kit, however according to the instructions you have to assemble it from several parts: Painted and waiting to dry, before installation in place:

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