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qwerty2008

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Posts posted by qwerty2008

  1. Augie/Jud: I really like the idea of using a door as a table top but I don't feel it necessary to replace the top as besides the problem at hand the table is in relatively good condition.

    George: Pipe clamps would be nice in an ideal world but I am a jobless teenager with no transportation or money to buy the clamps.

    Alex: I think that I might try your idea, now as I mentioned previously I can't exactly run down to the hardware store and pick up some oak 2X2s but I think I might have something that will work.

     

     

     

     

    Lextin.

  2. I have an old work table with a 2 inch thick chopping block surface and am wanting to fix it up and use it in my workshop as my current table is rather flimsy but it has been sitting in a leaky barn for the past two years and some of the boards have come unglued. So my question is what would be the best way to fix it?. The first option that I was considering was to remove the top and re glue it but I lack proper clamps to hold it wile the glue dries, ratchet straps would work in a pinch but I would need a flat surface to strap it to. The second much easier option is to drill holes trough the steel frame and screw each board down but I hate to do this as it would be a pain to disassemble and the table wont fit trough my door in one piece. Does anybody here have any ideas/suggestions on the best way to go about this?. 

    Thanks.

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    Lextin.

  3. Jud: If you are asking my if the bearings could be going bad my bandsaw is not all that old I have had it for about 5 years but don't use it all that much so I don't think that wear on the bearings would be the problem unless they were lemons from the start truth be told I wouldn't doubt it as it is a cheap banwsaw but there is no play in the wheels or noises that are normally attributed to bad bearings.

     

     

     

    Lextin.

  4. I don't mean to hijack your tread but I have another bandsaw question. On my bandsaw there is a problem where the blade doesn't track properly on the bottom wheel, what I mean is that the blade will be in the right position on the top wheel but will be at the very front of the bottom wheel sometimes to the point of the teeth hanging of the front of the wheel. When I first got the saw this didn't happen but with the last two blades has been getting worse. I have tried adjusting the alignment but it always does the same thing. Any thoughts? Thanks.

     

     

     

     

    Lextin.

  5. Here is a new crop of pictures to better show the dimensions but if you are making your own I highly suggest making it to fit your own hands and if you see room for improvement go for it. To hold the blade in place I use a simple press fit but if you drill the hole to big you can add a small set screw to hold the blade in.

     

     

    P.S. I don't have a metric ruler so I hope your ok with inches.

     

     

     

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    Lextin.

  6. Marc: I don't foresee wear being to much of an issue the miter box is made from a hardwood (cherry I think) that a local cabinet maker discards in large quantities, I have used a plastic miter box for cutting 2by4's and though I have since given it up in favor of power tools it saw a lot of of use during its time with me and was still going strong last time I used it. Also the piece of wood is thick enough to where the saw will bottom out before it cuts all the way though and if it does wear out in a few years it took about 5 minutes to make so not much of a problem to make a new one.

    Gaetan: I to have a Japanese style saw (probably my favorite hand saw) but the one I have is too large and unwieldy to be used for this application and I haven't yet acquired a small one I do intend to get one but it is not currently at the top of my list.

     

     

     

    Lextin.

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