qwerty2008

I just took a look and found it post #128 of his Surabaya's log voc-ship-surabaya-by-piet

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Unless I'm missing something, did you ever complete your VOC Dutch East Indianman ? You have been really involved with the O 19 submarine and perhaps the ship model was forgotten.

Inquiring minds want to know.

 

I believe Piet has said somewhere that he plans on continuing work on his Surabaya once the O-19 is complete but for now I think he has it on the back burner.

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I haven't got much work done on the Byzantium but I have made up a set of paper sail templates to test the positions of all the fairleads and to see how much servo pull each sail will need. My original calculations were based on the size of the sail and did not factor in the overlap so they were way off, the new servo pull requirements are out of reach what I mean by this is that both the fore sail and the outer jib will require a minimum of 18 inches servo pull and my current setup will only allow for 12 inches. I am wondering if anyone here can shed some light on how to fix this issue? the only options I can think of would be to drastically reduce the size of the sails or to triple the pull of the servo but that would put allot of strain on the servo which will control all three of the jibs as well as the fore sail.


The pencils in this picture are pointing at the fairlead locations

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 Be careful when sailing in a lake and if at all possible go when there are boats and personal watercraft on the lake so you can flag someone down if your boat gets away from you. When I sailed my footy for the first time the wind was blowing towards me but that didn't stop my little boat from sailing strait out into the lake and out of receiver range.

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I'am still wondering how a someone could get away with ending a movie by having everyone on the boat die .

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Sorry to hear about the break but glad to see you were able to fix it without needing to make new ones.

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I don't know much about field artillery and was wondering what the purpose of the secondary mounting location for the barrel? Is it used when the gun is being transported? Just curious. 

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Daniel: I do have a clear plastic insert that increases the rudders size and I am thinking of making it removable so that I can replace it with a bigger one later if needed. The Byzantium is a schooner and therefore it can be steered almost entirely with the sails (or so I've been told) also the large scale means that the rudder extension doesn't need to be so large. The main thing I worry about is the size of my keel fin, the large surface area will reduce leeway and heeling but will also resist turning whereas the narrow keel on the Prins Willem combined with the large rudder allows it to turn on a dime which is nice for control but not very realistic.

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Well I was at the hardware store today and picked up the springs for the sliding servo aswell as a variety of brass screws to keep on hand in case I need them later and to replace the steel ones holding the aluminium plate that the rudder hinges on.

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I did some more work on the keel then took some pictures of the model.

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The one power tool that I couldn't live without is the dremel but my favorite would have to be the bandsaw.

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Richard: if you want something easy to start with I highly suggest a footy or something similar with only a single fore and aft sail. About the servo set up its easier to figure out when the model is already built, or at least in my opinion as I have a hard time planning things in advance. I don't want to hijack Jerry's thread so I will leave it at that.

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Abought the circular track, am I correct in assuming that the top of the track needs to stay level and not curve with the deck?

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I made the slide and hit it with a few coats of paint which was a real pain as my can of oxide red was empty and the only other can of oxide red I had was a different brand and clogged so I pulled a nozzle of a different can that was clogged too so I unclogged it and then found that this new paint goes on thinner then the last so I needed more coats to get even coverage, and then after all the trouble I went trough to paint it, it now makes my 6 pounder look a little crummy .

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I made a SketchUp model of the carriage and am wanting to know if it is passable for a late 1700s pivot gun carriage? before I start to build it. I am also wondering how to make the circular track that it will ride on?.

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I finally got a new blade and thought that I would share a picture of the inaugural blade unwinding.

I also took a picture of it in its new home.

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Probably a stupid idea but as a ship in bottle builder I feel that I should suggest it, you could make a mortise and tenon hinge on each oar then just hinge all the oars up to where the ends would sit on deck. This next suggestion is probably the more practical one, you can make the oars swing back farther then they would need to for normal operation so that they sit closer to the hull for transport.

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I just looked at the broken blade and found at least 7 cracks other than where it broke, just a bad quality blade I guess.

David F: "Can't comment on the Tink . . . Tink . . . Tink . . . I never worked in a shop where I would have heard it." Did the bandsaws you worked with have guide blocks, or bearings?. I think the sound was the crack hitting the guide blocks just before snapping completely.

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David F: I thing that the first two broke at the weld but this most recent one broke in the middle. 

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Keith: Abought only using 5-6 blades a year, I have gone though a the massive number of 3 blades in the past 5'ish years that I have had the bandsaw as I mostly use it for cutting very small pieces that put very little wear on the blade. "Note-a correctly welded blade should not break before it wears out,and even then it should not break." All of my broken blades have been sharp still when they break could I be over tension them? if so I have a bone to pick with whoever wrote the instruction manual .

David F: My experience with blades breaking is much the same as yours except that I usually hear the Tink.... Tink.... Tink.... sound that the blade makes just before snapping and open up the case thinking its an alignment problem, maybe I should make a sticker that reminds me that sound means the blade is abought to break.

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Thanks everyone for the advice I will not be using this blade but will try to learn to weld halfway decent as I think that it would be a good skill to have.

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So the general consensus seems to be that it is possible but with practice which brings to mind the question should I learn to weld? I have access to a small wire feed welder but don't foresee needing to weld all that often.

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my bandsaw blade broke a few days ago and considering that hardware store trips are few and far between for me I decided to try welding my bandsaw blade which would not be to bad IF I KNEW HOW TO WELD!. I have already welded the blade, ground the weld flat and installed it. the weld seems to be holding but looks pretty scary would it be a bad idea to use it until Sunday when I get back into town?.

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Jerry: I use my drill press for turning as I don't have a lathe and found that if I clamp a board with a pointed metal rod thought it onto the table I can use it as a tailstock to stabilize longer work pieces.

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I have done a bit more work on the carriage and have decided to make notches in the axletrees that will fit over the rails which will be abought 6 inches long (10 feet in scale) and will rotate on center when all is said and done the barrel should sit at just abought the right height to shoot over the railing when leveled. I may remove the hammock cranes to allow for greater rotation of the gun.

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