qwerty2008

Very impressive cannons.  I agree I would have had a hard time getting rid of the Damascus steel too.     

I have done a bit more work on the carriage and have decided to make notches in the axletrees that will fit over the rails which will be abought 6 inches long (10 feet in scale) and will rotate on center when all is said and done the barrel should sit at just abought the right height to shoot over the railing when leveled. I may remove the hammock cranes to allow for greater rotation of the gun.

 
Lextin.

I wasn't quite happy with the shape of the barrel so I put it back on the drillpress and turned it again but forgot to seal it with wax before I started painting it and ended up getting an interesting Damascus steel look that I hated to get rid of but had to . I also made the sides of the carriage, I cut the profile into a 3/4 inch thick piece of cherry then sliced it lengthwise into 1/4 inch thick pieces which was a hard task because the band saw is out of commission .


 
Lextin.

I did find what I needed and have turned a barrel. I wasn't thinking that it would be so big and am starting to question my decision to add it, I will make the carriage then decide if I want to keep it or possibly use a 12 pounder or a carronnade instead.
Here are some pictures showing the size compared to my 6 pounder.



 
Lextin.

The armament of lack there of has been bugging me so I want to add a pivot gun amidships but cant seem to find any useful information around the interwebs so I am asking for help. I was think of a 18 pounder with a compact carriage that rotates around its center rather then one end would this be an unrealistic setup? also what are the dimensions of a 18 pounder barrel? also pics or drawings of a simaler gun would be helpful. Thank you.

 
Lextin.

I decided that my original rudder was kinda ugly so I made a new one and this time out of wood. The rudder will have a clear plastic insert to make it larger but I still need to cut the groove that it will fit into. I was halfway though cutting the rudder when my bandsaw started making a ting.... ting.... ting.... ting sound so I stopped cutting and was trying to locate the problem when I heard a snap and felt something hit my shoulder, I instantly knew that I was in for a long session of hand sawing but I did get the rudder finished. Now the bandsaw is temporarily out of commission until I get a new blade.





 
Lextin.

I have mounted the rudder servo and the foresail servo.

I will rewrought the main sail line (blue) trough some eyebolts (red) to keep it from interfering with the rudder servo.

 
 
Lextin.

Thank you all for your comments and likes.
 
I was not happy with the way the brass square nuts were looking, so made the decision this morning to replace them with blued steel ones, this entails a bit more work but I prefer the results. the only thing is i also need to make the washers as well now because the nuts on the wood are not good practice.
 
The new steel nuts are first bored then the top surface is shaped with a file as the steel is spinning, then parted off and tapped in the vice, by tapping the nuts after they are parted off I can use the first tap only and there is very little clogging because the tap distance is short. after the nut is tapped then it is put onto a threaded mandrel and buffed. then while still on the mandrel it is heated through the tempering colours until the purplish  blue is reached then quenched in water and then oiled.
 

 
I added the leather to the wood blocks and also the retaining screws for holding the wood to the swivel plate.
 

 
There is a few more hours of making the nuts before moving on to the bow supports.
 

 
Michael
 
 
 
 

Thanks everyone for the advice I will not be using this blade but will try to learn to weld halfway decent as I think that it would be a good skill to have.
 
 
 
Lextin.

Thanks everyone for the advice I will not be using this blade but will try to learn to weld halfway decent as I think that it would be a good skill to have.
 
 
 
Lextin.

Jerry: I use my drill press for turning as I don't have a lathe and found that if I clamp a board with a pointed metal rod thought it onto the table I can use it as a tailstock to stabilize longer work pieces.
 
 
Lextin.

Jerry: I use my drill press for turning as I don't have a lathe and found that if I clamp a board with a pointed metal rod thought it onto the table I can use it as a tailstock to stabilize longer work pieces.
 
 
Lextin.

I am in the maintenance department where I work and we have 2 of the bandsaws with the built in blade grinder/welder to make your own blades. Most of us never seem to get it right, usually takes 2 or 3 times to get one to hold. Finally convinced the management to start buying the blades in the correct size.  SO MUCH BETTER.... Unless you are expert at brazing and grinding wait to get a new blade. With out the proper tools it is a pain.

Bedford, Tom, Denis, thanks for your kind words. Al those who added likes thank you they are appreciated.
 
Tom the ends were making me cautious as well.
This ought to calm you down
 

 

 

 
Denis the idea of an adjustable slip actually seems like a great one, it had not occurred to me that way. There will be some leather wrapped over the wood block., I am pleased with the way they work. They are part of a new way of supp0rting the model to replace the little stand it is presently sitting on.
 
Denis there is definitely another build on the horizon. I have the plans for an 8 foot Shamrock V, by Rene Sarao of Nova  Scotia as one option.
 
Michael
 

Since the pipes for the fore-corse and tops'l yard braces go through the main pin rail, I need to make the thing to get everything properly lined up.
I recently made a sea chest for a reenactor participating in the event at Fort McHenry last weekend and have a bit of scrap "select" pine from it already cut to 3/16".  I printed and pasted the paper patterns for both fore and main pin rails, cut them, and drilled them with 1/16" holes for the belaying pins.  Some larger holes were drilled for the stanchions which will be fastened with wood dowels except for three or four that will have brass rod all the way through to the deck.  Four additional holes were drilled in the main rail for the brace pipes.
 
 
There's 13 total stanchions between the two pin rails all of which are turned and have two sheaves in their bases - they do not pivot.  They are 3/16" square and about 3/4" long (changing for the deck camber)

 
My lathe doesn't have a chuck; I have a big 4-jaw thing for it, but it requires shimming and balancing or it'll make the whole bench jump around the shop.  So I took a shot at turning a couple of stanchions on my drill-press.  That'll work, but I have to do one at a time rather than a stick of four or five.  I also need to get together some implements to get a better and sharper finished turning.

 
I did get some 1/16" ABS sheet to make the flanges for my new winch drums, being I can't find the set I made before I moved.  Now I have to find my sheet of 1/8" plastic for the drums themselves - which I think is in my storage unit.  I want to rig up the braces and test it all in operation before I epoxy everything down and lay the subdeck.

Thanks for all the likes
 
managed a little more work on the supports this evening.
 
The first picture shows the adjusting screw it is 1 1/2 inch in diameter and the threaded collar is rotated with a 1/2 inch bar inserted into one of the 4 holes.
 

 

 
In order to ensure that the holes were at right angles to each other I set up a couple of bars (scrap stainless steel out of a used wiper blade) to support the 1/2 inch bar before drilling the other hole.
 

 
The stern support are only needing the swivel pads and then a bit of clean up on the bolts then I can move on to the bow supports
 

 

 
Michael

I have done a bit more work on the carriage and have decided to make notches in the axletrees that will fit over the rails which will be abought 6 inches long (10 feet in scale) and will rotate on center when all is said and done the barrel should sit at just abought the right height to shoot over the railing when leveled. I may remove the hammock cranes to allow for greater rotation of the gun.

 
Lextin.

I have done a bit more work on the carriage and have decided to make notches in the axletrees that will fit over the rails which will be abought 6 inches long (10 feet in scale) and will rotate on center when all is said and done the barrel should sit at just abought the right height to shoot over the railing when leveled. I may remove the hammock cranes to allow for greater rotation of the gun.

 
Lextin.

That would make a decent start of a good diorama.
David B

I have done a bit more work on the carriage and have decided to make notches in the axletrees that will fit over the rails which will be abought 6 inches long (10 feet in scale) and will rotate on center when all is said and done the barrel should sit at just abought the right height to shoot over the railing when leveled. I may remove the hammock cranes to allow for greater rotation of the gun.

 
Lextin.

QF 12 libre ...scale 1/100 There are 10units....this is a infinitive
silicone molding taking
I will do bronze foundry

were painted water line

silicone de- molding for the main gun turrets
then poured into the mold to the reisin

scale 1/100
canopus class first class battleship
  original plans were drawn by me as a vector to vector cut by the laser was by myself again.
alignment problem were on the counter in the first step was to check whether any problems  

scale 1/100
canopus class first class battleship
 
NOTE:i little speak and write english.sory