Chuck

Thanks Ben, I hope you are doing well. I actually made a good deal of progress on the benches for the barge. Just finished painting the bench details. So far, everything except for the molding along the shear has been laser cut for this kit. Some etched details Include the panels on the bench armrests....and beading along the bench seat tops. Next up will be planking inboard with the risers and adding the thwarts...Its a very quick build in comparison to other projects. The last photo shows just how large the model is. It is not a small model. A bit longer than 18".

Thanks I hope you are right about folks being interested. Its always a nerve racking experience to spend the time and money developing something like this with the hope folks will want it afterwards. I am having so much fun building it at any rate.

Thanks Don... I nailed the planks today. The clinker planks had a row of nails along the bottom edge that actually went through the beveled plank beneath it. You can see that in this image of the queen Mary barge. Black mono-filament was used and this will be added to every kit so you guys can use it and try it out. Its a great way to simulate bolts on other projects and in this case nails. It went quickly. You can see that they used many more nails than I showed but ike the contemporary models I am just showing a stylized version of it with far few. I used 20 pound black line which required drilling with a #74 bit. Then dip in CA and stick it in the hole. Use a straight razor to cut the line flush. Its nice stuff to work with. I may switch to 15 pound line for the kits though. Slightly smaller. But each kit will come with more than enough to complete this model and some extra so you can use it on other things. The molding was added and I even got a chance to paint some red on the hull. Its summer so sales are slow and I have more time work on the models. I almost forgot how much fun it is. Chuck

Yes but in many cases they would show and not be covered by something. Also it is very hard to not go too deep when etching wood. So any slightly deeper etch line would weaken the frames too much. Been there and done that with this prototype. The frames are just too thin at only 1/16" thick. Especially if it goes with the grain.

Yes a stove and a capstan are mini-kits that are on my to-do list. They are in fact already designed. I just have to find time to build the prototypes and get them to market. Probably after the Cheerful and barge is finished. Speaking of the barge. Just a bit of progress to report, I am much more comfortable with it now as the footwales and platforms are in. This really strengthens the hull. One of the issues on the longboat and pinnace kit were watching folks not know where the the platforms and seats should be. How deep in the hull.....etc. Using this device you will be able to measure off the plan and then transfer the tick marks to your model. You will mark the height on the frames where each element should be. This takes the guesswork out of it. You will use this tool to determine the proper placement for the platforms and seats and thwarts and inboard planking. First place the tool against the inboard plan at a frame. Measure from the top of the caprail down to the top of the element you are working on....like the aft platform..make a tick mark Then sit the depth gauge tool on top of the sheer caprail of your model against that same frame. Slide it port to starboard until your tick mark lines up with the inside of the frame. Transfer that mark. Its a simple device but it works really really well. I would also like to comment that in my honest opinion if you get this far with the kit you are about 45% finished. There really arent that many more parts except of course the carving which will take time. BUT since up to this point every single piece is laser cut for you it goes very quickly. This includes the floorboards and platforms. My goal is to laser cut all of the parts to this kit if its humanly possible. This goes for all of the inboard parts and planking too. Chuck

Thanks Maury Here are some photos with her all cleaned up and the inboard frames faired and thinned down. I had to clean it up because I couldnt stand looking at it so messy.

I think this article may explain lining off the hull and finding the curved shape better. It is more descriptive. The version on the NRG site is the power-point from this longer article which is the chapter for the Winchelsea book. Seeing as its taking so long to complete that project I will release the longer version on planking below the wales here. Its seems like the right place/time to do it. In this case however I didnt write about pre-bending edgewise.....I was cutting the spiled edge from a sheet. It really doesnt matter how you achieve the edge-wise bend...either pre cutting from a sheet or bending as shown in the video. Its just important that you do. Then bend it the other way with heat and also give any needed twist to the plank so its completely shaped before gluing it on the hull. That is the secret to a well-planked hull. winplankingbelowwales.pdf

No not exactly. The plank is first bent edgewise as shown and then bent the other way as needed. The one plank on the video if I remember correctly was lower on the hull and didnt require any bending the other way. It was so slight that I didnt need to. But in almost all cases the plank is pre shaped so that it immediately sits against the bulkhead edges. Thats why you dont have to clamp them. The CA dries so quick that its an immediate bond. Its only when folks dont pre-shape that some sort of clamp is required. I glue two bulkheads at a time and work my way across the hull in scale lengths. Yes there is sanding butnot that much. If the planks fit well than not much sanding is required. Just like this plank below.....the plank is always bent edge-wise first and then the other way so its completely pre-shaped to fit so no extra bending is needed. In this case below I pre-spiled the plank with a laser cutter edge-wise, but if I was using a plain strip like in the video....it would have been bent to look just like this before gluing. Here is some more detail Here is a straight plank as if I were going to place it on the hull. It could be at the bow or at the stern. Most beginners would try to force this into place and the top edge of the plank would lift off the hull and not sit flush against the bulkheads. Some fight with it using pins and clamps and it gets messy. Holding it without bending like shown reveals the gap . Note the widest point of that gap. Mark this location as the center of the gradual curve you will need. In the next picture, after bending, you can see how nice it fits and how it is flush against the bulkheads. No forcing needed. Its a perfect fit. Note the dot I marked on the plank for the apex of the curve or the widest part of the gap..You could use the compass method or the tape method to find the exact curve, but I prefer to eyeball it like this. Visually its easy to see the curve after a little practice. I always over bend slightly. Now all I have to do is bevel the edge that meets the plank already on the hull for a tight fit (just knock off the edge as in the video) and darken the seem as I did in the video with pencil and glue it on. You can see that in this rare instance not much bending other than edge-bending was needed because it was low on the hull.

Yes just a few drops....on each bulkhead. Applied with a toothpick. Only in rare circumstances will I glue the edges of the planks. I havent found the need to do that. I only use CA for the planking by-the-way. Once the planking is over I switch to tite-bond. I just hate waiting for the planks to set with it so I use CA instead. I havent had an issue at all.

Yes....by lining off the hull. In general you will be able to see if your planks are measured so they taper too much against the stem. If so move the garboard back at the bow to give you more room to make the planks at the bow wider. For me it is just trial and error but after many hulls you get a good idea of where it should be. But there is always re-tweeking and lining off the hull more than once at the bow to get it looking just right before you make any sawdust with your planks.

A milestone is reached....the frame centers were removed. This is easy to do but you must be careful and use a slow and light touch. File the little tabs on the port and starboard sides to release the top of the frame centers. Then carefully bend the frame center til the little tabs break down below releasing the centers. BUT....its important to bend towards the floors on these two piece frames. That eliminates any tear out on the floors and futtocks. The tear out will happen on the frame centers instead which is what you want. And this is what it looks like immediately after finishing. It always looks messy but after a bit of clean-up and fairing inboard, it should look pretty good. This is the most delicate stage of the build. The hull is pretty sturdy but until the footwales/floorboards and platforms are in...its best to be careful. Fairing inboard requires a slow, gentle yet deliberate sanding to reduce the thickness of the frames significantly. Chuck

I advocate no water. You really dont need it. For the kinds of bends we are talking about, the heat does the trick. There will be some spring-back......but just overbend to begin with. The key is to line-off the hull first. Its easier when you have a plan. That is described here. http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/Lining%20Off%20your%20hull%20for%20planking.pdf And another by David Antscherl here....... where he cuts the planks to shape rather than bend it in that third plane. http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/Planking%20primer.pdf But lining off the hull is half the battle. Then realizing the planks are bent and not straight to fit the hull properly in that edge-wise plane. Whatever way you eventually get it there. But force bending a straight plank is a really frustrating way to fight through planking. IMHO

Thanks I hear what your saying.....the trick will be to secure the work-piece to a base before carving starts. Then remove it afterwards. I may also simplify the crown a bit more before starting the carving. I may change those crosses on the crown to simple spheres. I might be a bit ambitious with the small details. This is a learning experience for me as well and this kit was produced to give folks some guidance on carving these details. As I mentioned, at some pint I will provide resin castings for these but I am hoping those interested will give this kit a try just for the opportunity to try their hand at carving like this. It will I hope be a good introduction to carving. Maybe you will surprise yourself and it will be something you really enjoy and excel at. Chuck

Thanks I have no idea when it will be done. In fact, I just want to get this as far as removing the frame centers...I am going back and forth between Cheerful and this project....one weekened at a time......maybe one day during the week I get to work on one or the other. The good news is that these smaller boats dont take that long. Once its planked inboard there really isnt much left to do that is very time consuming. Chuck

Thanks, I removed the base holding the frames in position. Each piece came free really nice with a little wiggle. Then rather than throw it away....I used some scrap wood and now its a work-base. I wont remove the frame centers until the transom is positioned. But first I must carve the inside decoration. This is the Queen Anne monogram that goes on the inboard side of the flying transom. In the photo above you can also see the flying transom being temporarily tested. It fits well. Then I will glue it into position permanently. The flying transom and decoration are made from boxwood. The carving you see is just 1/32" thick. Anything more would be too thick. So we shall see how it goes. I havent started carving it yet and just placing it on the flying transom it looks pretty good. I hope I dont make a mess of it. Chuck

A very low-tech yet effective use of space. Having a bending station near by makes for a quick and painless planking experience. The three strakes are all completed. I will add the flying transom and nail the planks (simulated) before removing the bulkhead centers. Any thoughts or comments are always appreciated.

A bending station is literally just a place to clamp your plank and plug in your hair dryer. I have an old length of 1 x 6 that I put on a table about 4 feet from my model. The hair dryer is all plugged in and I have a clamp or two to cecure the plank for shaping. Thats it.....!!!! Chuck

You should be good to go...enjoy the project.

I think you need to change the title of this topic so that folks will know what its about because as of right now.....it looks like spam. Click the edit button and make your topic title say what the topic is actually about. Chuck admin

With this barge project I will be taking my time and expanding the instructions with regard to the planking. I will attempt to do a plank-by-plank description. There are only three strakes or 7 planks on each side and each of them has their specific nuances. Here is just a preview and few images showing a some of those nuances I will be describing in detail. After sanding the first plank so it has the bevel, you will need to bend it. The edgewise spiled shape has been determined for you already.... BUT, you must still bend it to conform to the bow shape. I recommend a test fit before any bending starts. The straight plank below shows how it sits in position after only resting it against the frames. No bending or shaping and instead just looking and examining as it rests against the frames. You will notice that not much bending is actually needed . Its relatively straight across the first two frames and then the bending starts. BUT...also notice how the end of the plank doesnt fit or conform to the angle of the rabbet. The bottom of the plank end (or top since its upside down) is flared out. You can see the how the first inch of the plank needs not only a slight bend but also a slight twist. Knowing this ahead of time lets me take the plank to my bending station with advanced knowledge of what I need to accomplish. Apply heat with a hair dryer. You have seen me do this before. No water at all. Just heat. I bend the plank for the bow bow slightly...BUT I also twist it as the test showed in the previous photo. I am bending more to compensate for spring back. You want to shape the plank so you can position it on the model so it fits without any stress needed to position it. No force bending will be needed. If after you bend it, it doesnt quite fit right....take it back to your bending station and reshape it.....re-bend it or re-twist it until it lies against the frames without any stresses.... This is how the plank fits afterwards. The second plank at the stern will also need some special attention. After sanding the bevel into it to accept the clinker plank that will be added on top, the plank will need to be bent to fit the stern's shape...The spiled shape or edge-wise-bend has been pre-determined for you. So lets bend it to fit around the stern. It may sound counter-intuitive, but you will actually bend the end of this plank outward and opposite to what you might have thought. See below. The reason why.... is because the bend/shape at the stern isnt that severe. You dont really need to bend it to get the planks to sit against the frames nicely. BUT....the last inch where the plank bends severely to form that graceful entry into the flying transom is another story. As the plank runs off the transom it is left longer where this bend is severe. You could probably force the flying transom into position without re-shaping, but the planks wont have that pleasant bend shown above on the plan. They would be straight and weird looking. So to create this bend easily to match the plans, bend the plank end in the opposite direction so after it is glued against the frames, the nice curve into the flying transom is established as it runs off the end. I hope that makes sense. This level of detail will be explained for each and every plank. The next plank at the bow needs some prep work. Make sure the rabbet is clear from glue so the next plank can be slipped in nicely. The clinker plank will be beveled only on the end this time. This is because where the plank enters the rabbet it is not clinkered at all. It will be flush and gradually become clinkered. But you need a clean rabbet for this and so you can clean it out as I did below. Then bevel the first 3/4" of the next plank. This is the inboard side of the plank this time. It is marked with a laser etched line. The degree of the bevel gradually becomes less and less pronounced as it ravels back from the rabbet. Its only a short bevel. Then test it in position after completing the bending and twisting needed to shape the plank. Its great to set up a bending station!!!. Here is a test before it is glued into position. No forcing at all....it fits really well. And finally glue that plank in position after you are satisfied. These planks are 1/32" inch thick. So hopefully I will be explaining each plank in enough detail that it wont be a drastic learning curve for everyone......At least the learning curve wont be as steep, but this is my approach to kit making for the purpose of teaching not just assembly. Or at least my best feeble attempt at it. There will be of course more detail in the instructions but for this post you can get the idea

No nothing at all. Its just the black acrylic paint and the red. No fixative or finish was applied. I imagine that some wipe on poly sometimes hits the painted areas but for the most part its just the paint. Thanks for the kind words.

No those are carronades but its incorrect. They should be long 12s. Chuck

I understand...but its the best answer I have...if we only had that time machine... Take a look.

NoI dont really except what I have examined on contemporary models. They must have used these for the guns because there are several examples showing long Guns crammed in there. The other interesting thing is that on the original draft for Cheerful they actually mention that the windlass was moved back about 2ft. to make more room for working the 12 pounder long guns. So they either had really short breech lines or they were rarely used. There seems to be plenty of room on the starboard side and its only really the port side which is really tight. I also think that the carriages for these guns was both higher and shorter as well as the guns being short 12's. Chuck

Making the bowsprit step with pawls for the windlass. I found some time to do this today. Just a quick note to say that when you dont have a mill or a drill press, think in terms of layers for ways to make parts. If you have have a mill, making the mortises for the pawls would be easy enough. But if you dont have one, always think about how an item could be made in layers like these. You dont need a laser cutter to do this. It would be simple enough to cut out each layer. This is a great way to go especially if the item is to be painted like these. You would never see the layers after its painted. Once assembled, the top profile of each was files into shape. Much like the timberheads. The pawld have a tiny hole that corresponds with the outside layers. After painting the uprights red the pawls were inserted and held in position with some 24 gauge wire. Small washers were pushed onto the outside to give a more finished look. The wire was snipped off standing proud of the washers. Bolts were simulated along the standards (knees) in the usual fashion with 24 gauge wire as well. The cross beams are only temporary. The bowsprit needs to be made and inserted first. That is why they are so long now. But you can get a good idea of what it will look like. The cross beams will be much much shorter and painted red also. But not until after the bowsprit is made and positioned. I will do that this week sometime. This will be a mini-kit and should be available....before anyone asks....