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Chuck

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Everything posted by Chuck

  1. Thank You.... Its just a matter of slowing down and taking your time. Not rushing is a huge part of it. I think everyone can do the same but I see so many folks running through their projects like they are in a race. Should parts not fit correctly...throw them away and do it again. It took me about 2 hours to paint the stern after making the seats and adding the cleats. It took me about 1 hour to just paint one ladder after making it. Many thin coats being careful not to get any dust on it. Sanding carefully when imperfections and brush strokes take place. The key in my mind is to just slow down....my best advice for any model builder. Chuck
  2. At some point it does get ridiculous. Again I reiterate how I wanted this to be a scratch/semi-scratch project. But it all depends on how much demand there is for the pesky parts nobody likes to build from scratch. I have basically kept all of the laser cutting files for each element of the project just in case. If a lot of folks want these to be available I will certainly add them to the list of parts available. I use the laser cutter like anyone else would use any other tool. So its easy enough to do. Mike is in my local club for example...so I usually cut double the amount and I will give him some ladder kits tonight when I see him. Chuck
  3. Making ladders now. They are usually very annoying to make in any scale. I quickly drafted some laser cut plans. Makes it much easier. I laser etched slots to take each step. Note the angle to the completed ladder. It follows the sheer of the deck fore and aft and therefore is askew. Otherwise it would look funny. These will be painted red. Chuck
  4. Here is a photo of my 1/4" and 1/2" version of the pinnace. I have highlighted in blue on the smaller version to show the slight subtle "s" shape at the bow. This is done to keep the caprail relatively flat at the stem. Chuck
  5. That is correct....but also remember that at the bow where the sheer meets the stem, the sheer should be flat or almost level. Not angled upward. To do this you must create a subtle "S" bend in that top plank to establish the proper run of planks.
  6. Yes there would have been a discharge hole through the counter but it is rarely modeled. You can absolutely choose to show it if you want. Chuck
  7. Just a small update. I worked on the inboard stern details. The seats are completed. Card templates were made first using the plans as a guide. Then they were tweaked to get a nice tight fit with the parts. Cleats were added...these are all laser cut Syren cleats (5, 7, and 9mm). All that was needed to do was sand them a bit to shape and then add a piece of wire as a pin. Then they were glued into place. I decided to paint these bulwark red also to match the many contemporary models I have seen. Finally....the horse was added for the boom sheet. This was just a small piece of wire bent to shape. Two small washers laser cut from paper were added to finish it off nicely on each end. They were painted to look like metal. I should have dusted the model better before taking the pics....next time I will now continue my way forward along the bulwarks adding eyebolts, cleats, ladders and pin rails. Chuck
  8. Nicely done......have fun with the serving machine....after a while you will wonder what all of the fuss is about. Serving is easy enough and it adds a great deal to the models look. Yours is certainly looking good.
  9. That is looking so nice. Very clean and precise. Can you place a ruler along side for a better grasp at just how large this model is? Thanks Chuck
  10. Just click the start new topic button....the rules are all about how to name your build log in the topic title. Just go to the list of build logs and you will see the start new topic button. Its above the list of logs. Right hand side. Chuck
  11. That looks great. I wouldnt worry about the frames being another wood. Very little of the frames will be visible once the model is completed. Chuck
  12. If your planking is pre-shaped/spiled to the proper curves...there is no need to clamp or pin. Thats the way to go. Planks fit perfectly with no force needed....no springback.
  13. If it wasnt for the good folks who managed to copy my logs from version 1 of this site...They would be lost forever. I dont however know any way that it can be done easily. But yes....you should ask permission first. My gues is that many have already done this without asking...but it is better to ask first. Chuck
  14. I have a design for them which could be laser cut....I think the smallest I could comfortably go is 5/32" long though. I just havent had time to laser cut them and try building the prototypes. I probably wont be able to do that for a few weeks. I am also having a problem sourcing brass strip thin enough and the correct dimensions for the strops at these various sizes. Its been something on my to-do list for some time. Chuck
  15. How quickly do you need them Allan....?
  16. I am so glad the monograms worked out for you Grant...They look really good. You have a great looking model.
  17. Single line and yes, I will be serving it its entire length. Although in most cases you wont see it served its entire length on contemporary models. I believe its because most contemporary models do not show the original rigging or no serving was used on the entire model regardless. But I will be doing it. definitely a single however.
  18. Staff??? What staff? Its just the three of us. Me, myself and I. But seriously...the amount of blocks he uses per month is just an astounding number. You couldnt even imagine. An impossibility to manufacture by hand my blocks and rope for his needs. Its just not possible. I can at best make about 1400 blocks per day. Then I want to stick a fork in my eye. Chuck
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