Chuck

Finished rigging the gaff today.  Nothing unusual or interesting about doing this.  It was fun and I basically created the gaff just like the boom.  One interesting feature to point out might be how the blocks are hooked to thimbles/bullseyes on the gaff.  The blocks were not just seized to the gaff.  This follows a method I saw on another cutter from the time period.  Just seemed more interesting than doing it the other way.
 
It has gotten harder to photograph now.  Its a much bigger subject to get in frame.
 
Next up will be the pendant tackles and shrouds....none of the falls or loose ends have been glued to their belaying points yet.  You can see them left a bit long on deck.  They are just made fast to each belying point and can be undone easily.  I did this just in case they have to be retensioned after the shrouds and stays are completed.  Some lines have a tendency to go slack as rigging progresses.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

In this instance its Windsor and Newton Galleria acrylic paint.  Yes it is thinned down quite a bit and put on in many layers like watercolor.  The color is Crimson straight out of the tube.   I have used dozens of coats of very thin washes until it becomes opaque.    That helps me keep the paint very flat and without paint brush stokes using a round brush.
 
Chuck

Michael,  I am using Grumbacher acrylic paints in a tube.  Specifically Mars Black.
 
I finished the boom today and its all rigged.  It was shaped the same way as the mast.  I started with square stock and used the 7/10/7 ratio to convert to an octagon.   Then I used my drill to round it off and put the taper on it.   The jaws were added after I flattened the sides to accept them.
 
The blocks were prepared in advance, meaning some were added to the boom ahead of time.   Other blocks were secured to the mast and horse for sheets.   Then it was just a matter of rigging it in place.  I have only tightened the ropes around the cleats without any glue.  I will leave it this way until after the standing rigging is completed in case I have to re-tension the lines.  But from the way it looks I think it will be OK.
 
For the trucks on the jaws to secure the boom to the mast,  I used what I found in the shop.  I had some boxwood beads laying around that were the perfect size....I might even have enough left over to give the remainder to Mike for his model.   
 
Here are some pics.  Next up will be the gaff.
 

 

 

Thank You so much guys.   Today I finished the topmast.  Its all painted and the entire mast is now completed.
 

 
Rather than start on the standing rigging with the pendants, shrouds and stays....I will be building the boom and gaff first.  On this model it will be much easier to rig the finished gaff and boom first before tackling the shrouds and stays.  This way I wont have to reach behind the standing rigging to rig them.  Especially the where the rigging is close to the lower mast at deck level.
 

 
 

I figured the same Dan.   The lower mast has been completed and I am now working on the topmast.
 
To begin,  I started with square boxwood stock.  Then I squared up and tapered the top according to the plans using some chisels and sanding sticks.  But before doing that I drilled the holes for the sheave as you can see.  Once the top portion was squared off and tapered I finished up the sheave by rounding it off and cleaning it up.  You can also see the 7/10/7 ratio applied to the lower mast.  I am about to chisel it to an octagon in preparation for rounding it off.  The entire mast was left a bit long so I have some extra to chock it in my hand drill.
 

 
It was chocked and rounded off with some sandpaper.  I also carefull added the taper to the rounded portion while sanding it.
 

 
Then the boom rest was fabricated from a washer of boxwood 3/32" thick.  Just like the mast coat it was shaped with its profile using needle files and sanding sticks.  It was cut in half and then the small chocks were added around the perimeter after it was glued into position.  I still have to add the cleats around the base of the lower mast as well.
 
I made sure to make the mast hoops using the mini-kits from Syren and slip those on the mast before adding the trestle tree permanently.   I was afraid that I would forget but I didnt.  
 

 
The trees were crafted from boxwood using the plans as a guide.  It was pretty straight forward except for the fact that it must be angled properly on the mast.  Once the cheeks were shaped and glued to the mast the proper angle for the trees was filed into the mast.  The mast is angled or raked aft and the trees must remain parallel to the deck.  So considerable time was used to establish the correct angle.
 

 
Finally the cleats were added and the lower portion painted red.
 

 
Then the masthead area from the bottom of the cheeks upwards was painted black.  That was done after adding the mast bands and eyebolts.  These will be used for the boom and gaff rigging later.
 

 
 
 
 

I have no idea....but either the six pounders as I have used or smaller would work.   But even the smaller 3 pounders would be hairy to work in such a confined space.   Either way we know they were there its just we have no idea how they handled them.  I am pretty confident in going with the six pounders as indicated on the draft itself...I will however leave it up to the imagination as to how they were worked.
 
Chuck

Here is what the six pounders look like rigged.......
 
Those wishing to replace and use the smaller 3 pounder barrels just remember that the carriages will need to be reworked.  They will need to be made the same height but reduced in length.     
 

I do agree with that Druxey 100%.  Please help me with some math.....
 
In fact, lets assume that as documented on the original draft that six pounders were used as chase guns.  Based on my research, a short six pounder was around 6 feet long.   At 1:48 scale that would be 1 1/2" long.   The cannon on my model are actually 1 29/64" long or slightly shorter than the historical norm for a short 6'.   So basically they are right on the money so-to-speak.  So what you are looking at on my model is representative of a short six pounder if my math is correct.   I could have gone shorter but that wouldnt bear out with the info I have on ordinance fro the time period.   
 
Not that this helps with the way they appear on the model....   But these guns are the size of short six pounder cannon 6' long.  Have I made a math error though????  Math wasnt exactly my strong-suit.  I also considered going with my 1 11/64" barrels but they are closer to 4 pounders and very small for the scale.  So this was my thinking when deciding to go with this size barrel and the only thing I can think of is that my assumption of a six foot long short six is wrong.   Can someone confirm that 6' long is an accurate premise for a short six pounder at this time?
 
I am using several sources for this info
 
Arming and fitting.....Goodwin
Ship of the line.....Lavery
Volume II of Swan series....Antscherl

In light of the overwhelming contemporary evidence I cant really ignore it on my model.   There most certainly were no port lids.  Rather than just speculate based on a gut feeling its better to leave all possibilities open for individual consideration.  But for my model I will rig them as bow chasers as stated on the original draft.  Image below.
 

 
Now one other possibility would be to go with a smaller 6 pounder cannon but correspondence from the period and written accounts from her time at sea also indicate they were actually 12 pounders.   My guns are 1 29/64" long or the size of short six pounders at this scale.  I think either size would have little impact on how functional they would be just looking at them 225 years later crammed into that tiny space, but I would rather think that the methods that made them useful are just not known to us at this time.  That it would be wrong to simply ignore all of the contemporary accounts and evidence because we just have a gut feeling.  But that doesnt mean that others building Cheerful cant come to a different conclusion.   Hopefully it will be based on actual contemporary information and research however rather than just a casual impression based on current limited impressions and generalities.  Just my thoughts on it.
 
So I will finish up the rigging and just move ahead to constructing the lower mast.  I do appreciate and find the discussion fascinating none the less.
 
Chuck

So, I started to do the beginner's carving exercise.
I happen to have a piece of basswood that was close to what was called for.
It had a few squares missing but, in general, the ideas I had in mind were ok,
I started with a set of tools from Flexcut that include a couple of knives and some carving tools.
Here is my first attempt of carving some squares per the 'book'. I will eliminate a couple squares because of the duplication.
  
The first was taken with fluorescent light above and the second with an incandescent light from the left side.
Whow. What a difference  
 
 

To make the bowsprit....start with a square stick of boxwood 5/16" x 5/16".  The inboard section will remain square.  The outboard side is rounded off and tapered.  There are three square holes on the inboard sides.  But these start out as round holes made on the drill press while the entire stick is still square.
 
There is also a sheave on the outboard end.  The holes for this simulated sheave are also drilled while the stick is square.
 

 
Then the outboard end is measured and marked for the 7-10-7 ratios to make it an octagon.  From an octagon it is then made round.  There are many way to do this.  Mini-plan...files...by hand....then rounded off on a lathe or even chocked in your hand drill.
 

 
Then I made it round...in my hand drill...and taperred it to match the plan while doing so.
 

 
Once that was done...the simulated sheave on the outboard end was detailed.  I used a #11 blade to connect the holes and carve it out a little.  Then mini-files were used to round off the simulated sheave.  Later I will darken it with pencil.
 

 
The three inboard holes need to be made square...again there are many way to do this.  I decided to just use my #11 blade to carefully square off the corners.  The inboard portion will eventually be painted black.
 

 
The outboard end also has a metal band with four eyes around it.  This was made from paper.  You could use art tape or even brass if you wanted.  Again there are so many choices.  It was painted black and weathered so it looked differently than the wood elements painted black.
 

 
Then it was mounted in the hole at the bow and the fit tweaked.  Once it looked good,  the bowsprit step was slid onto the inboard end.  You wouldnt be able to slide the bowsprit in position if the step was already glued in place.  So this is a bit tricky.  But soon after I was able to get it all in position and glued securely.  Then I touched up the paint and cleaned it up.
 

 

 
Next up the long guns can be positioned....but I am unsure of I will add them.  They will look very crammed in there.  I will have to contemplate that for a bit.

I have been suffering for a lot longer than you think......I really cant believe it though.  I am blessed.   She is very smart like my boys and is looking at Princeton too!!!!   I might have to sell a kidney.  I am so very very proud of her.
 
Chuck

try this
 
steele tables
 
Chuck

Shrouds are completed.  I also added the lower backstay on the port side.  The fiddle block is a min-kit from Syren (13/32").   You can see another one on top of the companionway which will be used for the other side.  It is built up from three laser cut layers.
 
Here is a shot of the growing shroud gang.  The aft pair as well as the lower backstay are served only along the top that goes around the mast head.  They are served down to a bit below the cheeks.
 

 
Once that is finished it will be time for the sling for the lower yard and then the main stay.
 

 

Shrouds are completed.  I also added the lower backstay on the port side.  The fiddle block is a min-kit from Syren (13/32").   You can see another one on top of the companionway which will be used for the other side.  It is built up from three laser cut layers.
 
Here is a shot of the growing shroud gang.  The aft pair as well as the lower backstay are served only along the top that goes around the mast head.  They are served down to a bit below the cheeks.
 

 
Once that is finished it will be time for the sling for the lower yard and then the main stay.
 

 

Shrouds are completed.  I also added the lower backstay on the port side.  The fiddle block is a min-kit from Syren (13/32").   You can see another one on top of the companionway which will be used for the other side.  It is built up from three laser cut layers.
 
Here is a shot of the growing shroud gang.  The aft pair as well as the lower backstay are served only along the top that goes around the mast head.  They are served down to a bit below the cheeks.
 

 
Once that is finished it will be time for the sling for the lower yard and then the main stay.
 

 

Thank You very much, and happy Thanksgiving.   
 
I rigged the Burton Pendants and started the shrouds.  The Burton Pendants (.035 dark brown) are served the entire length with a 1/4" single block seized on it end.   It hangs down from the trees a bit more than we are used to with a typical frigate.   Then  a tackle was set up to the pendant.  The tackle is only shown on a few contemporary models and I thought it was interesting so I decided to show it.  This particular version is based on the cutter model in the London Science museum and Peterson's book.
 
The Shrouds are pretty standard,  I used .045 dark brown rope.  The forward shroud is served its entire length.  The serving was all done on the "Serv-o-matic".  The remainder of the shrouds will only have the portion around the mast head served down to just below the cheeks.  
 
Below you can see my shroud gang taking shape with this first pair of shrouds done.
 

 
The deadeyes were turned in and set-up with the usual methods.  I dont particularly care for this aspect of rigging.  Especially getting that first seizing done just above the deadeye.  Its an awkward one as its oriented differently but it is important because it creates that shape of the shroud doubling you strive for.  The lanyard was rigged with .018 light brown rope and not glued permanently.  This was done once again so I can easily re-tension the shrouds after all the standing rigging is completed.
 

 
Now to finish up the three remaining pairs. 

Thank You guys.
 
The thimbles are made from thin wall brass tube.  In this case 1.5 mm brass tube.  I tap them with a blunt point as shown in this image.  Not to hard.  The brass is soft and the thimbles will tear.  They will also stretch larger in dia. and become thinner than you cut the original length.
 
Here are some close ups of my thimbles thus far in use on the model.  Also note the thimble not yet punched to flare its ends in that first photo.  See how much longer and smaller it is.  Hooks are shaped from 26 gauge black wire.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

Shrouds are completed.  I also added the lower backstay on the port side.  The fiddle block is a min-kit from Syren (13/32").   You can see another one on top of the companionway which will be used for the other side.  It is built up from three laser cut layers.
 
Here is a shot of the growing shroud gang.  The aft pair as well as the lower backstay are served only along the top that goes around the mast head.  They are served down to a bit below the cheeks.
 

 
Once that is finished it will be time for the sling for the lower yard and then the main stay.
 

 

Shrouds are completed.  I also added the lower backstay on the port side.  The fiddle block is a min-kit from Syren (13/32").   You can see another one on top of the companionway which will be used for the other side.  It is built up from three laser cut layers.
 
Here is a shot of the growing shroud gang.  The aft pair as well as the lower backstay are served only along the top that goes around the mast head.  They are served down to a bit below the cheeks.
 

 
Once that is finished it will be time for the sling for the lower yard and then the main stay.
 

 

Thank You very much, and happy Thanksgiving.   
 
I rigged the Burton Pendants and started the shrouds.  The Burton Pendants (.035 dark brown) are served the entire length with a 1/4" single block seized on it end.   It hangs down from the trees a bit more than we are used to with a typical frigate.   Then  a tackle was set up to the pendant.  The tackle is only shown on a few contemporary models and I thought it was interesting so I decided to show it.  This particular version is based on the cutter model in the London Science museum and Peterson's book.
 
The Shrouds are pretty standard,  I used .045 dark brown rope.  The forward shroud is served its entire length.  The serving was all done on the "Serv-o-matic".  The remainder of the shrouds will only have the portion around the mast head served down to just below the cheeks.  
 
Below you can see my shroud gang taking shape with this first pair of shrouds done.
 

 
The deadeyes were turned in and set-up with the usual methods.  I dont particularly care for this aspect of rigging.  Especially getting that first seizing done just above the deadeye.  Its an awkward one as its oriented differently but it is important because it creates that shape of the shroud doubling you strive for.  The lanyard was rigged with .018 light brown rope and not glued permanently.  This was done once again so I can easily re-tension the shrouds after all the standing rigging is completed.
 

 
Now to finish up the three remaining pairs. 

Thank You guys.
 
The thimbles are made from thin wall brass tube.  In this case 1.5 mm brass tube.  I tap them with a blunt point as shown in this image.  Not to hard.  The brass is soft and the thimbles will tear.  They will also stretch larger in dia. and become thinner than you cut the original length.
 
Here are some close ups of my thimbles thus far in use on the model.  Also note the thimble not yet punched to flare its ends in that first photo.  See how much longer and smaller it is.  Hooks are shaped from 26 gauge black wire.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

That is something I would not recommend.   Eventually they will get brittle and break.   Its just not something you see on ship models and it would adversley effect the look and texture of the rope.

As a rule....I dont glue any of my lines to their final belaying point.  They are made fast to their pins and cleats but because it is inevitable that you will need to re-tension the lines,  this makes it very easy to do.   There is no really good reason to glue the line permanently.  It will stay in place just fine and makes fixing the lines or even replacing them much easier later on.   I have restored models that are over 100 years old and they rarely glued the ropes to the belaying points back then.  This meant it was as simple as pulling a belaying pin and re-doing it with proper tension.  No need to cut anything.  It was a pleasure compared to models which had the ropes glued and hard to work. 
 
I am currently rigging my model and have routinely adjusted the tension on many lines as it progresses.  Once completed I will add rope coils over the pins with the smallest dot of white glue.  They will be easy to remove if needed later.  And the line can be adjusted as described.

Shrouds are completed.  I also added the lower backstay on the port side.  The fiddle block is a min-kit from Syren (13/32").   You can see another one on top of the companionway which will be used for the other side.  It is built up from three laser cut layers.
 
Here is a shot of the growing shroud gang.  The aft pair as well as the lower backstay are served only along the top that goes around the mast head.  They are served down to a bit below the cheeks.
 

 
Once that is finished it will be time for the sling for the lower yard and then the main stay.