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Tim Holt

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  1. To be clear, it's not at all appropriate for the kinds of sculpted details I'm seeing here, but for really basic stuff (like jigs and non-ship parts), I use Tinkercad. It's a simple free, web based system for solids modeling that Autodesk has.
  2. Here's what I ended up creating. I'll start with how it looks completed... I went with corner posts, as well as horizontal siding, but deviated in a rather modern direction for the actual internal framing. I ended up 3D printing an inner plastic form that holds it all together. The form has cutouts on the corner for the posts, as well as cutouts on top to hold bent roof rafters. Siding is just glued directly to the plastic of the form. Originally I considered using it as a jig for the framing, but realized it did a really good job of maki
  3. Tonight's post is about building the little aft companionway. Continuing the spirit of using this model as a bit of an experiment, I tried out a new approach to building it. I didn't much want to just glue together the ill-fitting pieces of plywood and cover them with thin strips. I wanted something a bit more "real" looking that had a sense of how it was actually framed or constructed. Originally, I tried actually building a frame for the main structure using 1/8" square stock, but found it very hard to both ensure everything was correctly aligned, but also make sure
  4. Thanks all. This build is definitely one for experimentation and exploration. I came up with a pretty decent approach to building the the companionway that I’m going to add to my build long before long. A hint of it at Just need to finish that top sliding section.
  5. Too late! Most all the Dover Press books now, Longridges Anatomy of Nelson’s Ships on the way. Very tempted by the Anscherl TFFM series.
  6. Trust me I got it bad already So many things on this kit are cheaply fake it’s driving me nuts. And at the same time I look at the faked shape of things and think, “OK but why is it shaped like that? What is the underlying structure that makes it in that form?” But it’s a good learning opportunity and a good chance to make mistakes. Longer term I want to scratch build something. I have a huge personal stash of Alaskan Yellow Cedar, plus access to both a laser cutter as well as bench top milling machine to do some precise shaping.
  7. Ah sorry for the Swift confusion. It’s the AL Swift 1805 - the little cheap kit. See And I can see when I get back to my computer (on phone now) I’ve got some good reading and references. Thanks for that!
  8. I'd imagine that a companionway might be framed something like this for example. The beams may be a bit too oversized, but it gets the idea across. But then I'm just making this up so any insights of how this might actually be done would be useful.
  9. On my meager AL Swift 1805 build, I'd like to build the cabin up with more traditional framing rather than just pieces of ply with thin wood glued on. The instructions show basic vertical orientation of the siding, as well as no visible corner post. For the real thing, it seems there would be some framing inside to give it overall structure, and at least on most all land structures, siding is oriented horizontally rather than vertically. Here are some quick sketches of how I imagine the real thing might be constructed, where... A is as the kit essentially says
  10. Update for the last few days. First up, I redid that hatch coaming I'd done before. My joints were rather gaping and so I rebuilt with lapped and stacked 1/8" square mahogany. Gluing up... Then on the deck... Just a dry fit right now, and it needs a bit of chamfering and such to finish it up. You can also see the coaming base in place for the rear cabin. Probably going to just frame and build one up from smaller square stock for corner post, then planking for siding. I also got the top rail on as you can see. All stain
  11. Thanks Chuck. I'd not thought of the laser cutter bed size, but that also makes sense. I've got access to a Glowforge at work (~20" bed width), but as you point out, scale lengths is also a consideration.
  12. I've got a sizeable piece of Alaskan Yellow Cedar - about 8" x 10" and maybe 10 feet long. It's rough sawn. I've contemplated cutting it up into shorter lengths and then into usable wood for future projects, but not sure about what size, or whether I should even bother until I have a specific need. I could cut and mill it down into say 4" x 4" blanks for later cutting into thinner/narrower pieces, but then I'm not sure about what length to cut. Syren Ship Model Company sells pre-cut pieces, mostly only 14" long, and I'm not sure if 14" is because all they had were short pieces
  13. In the previous comment, I mentioned using some mystery wood from my father's old instrument making days. I've got quite a bit of interesting wood from this, including pieces of mahogany, ebony, maple, and actually quite a bit of Alaskan Yellow Cedar (8" x 10" x 10' single piece), plus a lot of Port Orford Cedar. At some point I'd like to mill up some of the AYC with an eye towards using it for a model some day, but not until I a) work on some basic skills, and b) have a really clear project for it.
  14. Bunch of random things this weekend. Bulwarks, masts, transom supports, hatch cover, plus some 3D printing and laser cutting of parts. Let's start with making the top rail for the bulwarks. I have a bunch of odd and interesting instrument wood from my father, who used to make instruments. I decided to make the top rail out of some interesting dark wood I have as it's already cut thin for instrument sides. Rather than use the plan for the curvature, I actually traced the edges of the plywood bulwarks with a pencil, then used a knife to cut them out. Here's a shot wh
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