Chuck

The Square tuck....Thank goodness this isnt a real POF project.  Here is the simplified version.
 
The photo below shows the first beam added which to create teh base for the stern post.  It runs down the center of the square tuck so I can glue the stern post on later.  It is 1/8" thick and 7/32" wide.  The same width as the stern post
 
The same photo below shows the second timber....how I took a wider piece that was 1/8" thick.  I shaped it so the seam between the lower counter and this timber was very tight.   Then I measured and marked it so it would be 1/8" wide as well.  This will of course be repeated on the other side once it is planked.
 

 
The finished timber below.
 

 
Then it was time to create the side piece which will finish the square tuck frame....this was the hardest piece but not that difficult at all.   I just took a larger 1/8" thick piece of boxwood and shaped it to fit tightly against the two timbers I just just completed.  I tried to get real tight seams. At the same time,  it hangs off the side of the hull.  Then I traced the shape of the hull against the back of this piece.
 

 
Heres what the tracing looks like.  The piece was cut to shape on the scroll saw.
 

 
Then,  this piece was temporarily glued back in position with just a small dot of CA.   This was done because it will need to be removed after it is faired with the hull planking.  See below.  And as done before,  I drew another line to establish a 1/8" wide finished timber.  This was cut out and glued into position finishing the frame for the square tuck on this side of the hull.
 

 
Here is what it looks like.
 

 

 
Finally....it was planked inside with vertical planks the same width as the hull planking.  Tarred seams were simulated.   I was very careful to get very tight seams.   In actual practice these planks would be normal thickness and the ends resting in a rabbet along the edges of the square tuck frame.
 
In my case though,  I just faked it using planking that was actually 1/8" thick which is the same thickness as the frame.   It all worked out in the end.  I am quite pleased with the results as this is normally a really tough detail to model convincingly.   Now to touch up the red paint on the counter or maybe its just best to wait till the planking is all done.
 

 

 

 
I can now start planking the last belt  on the starboard side.

The Square tuck....Thank goodness this isnt a real POF project.  Here is the simplified version.
 
The photo below shows the first beam added which to create teh base for the stern post.  It runs down the center of the square tuck so I can glue the stern post on later.  It is 1/8" thick and 7/32" wide.  The same width as the stern post
 
The same photo below shows the second timber....how I took a wider piece that was 1/8" thick.  I shaped it so the seam between the lower counter and this timber was very tight.   Then I measured and marked it so it would be 1/8" wide as well.  This will of course be repeated on the other side once it is planked.
 

 
The finished timber below.
 

 
Then it was time to create the side piece which will finish the square tuck frame....this was the hardest piece but not that difficult at all.   I just took a larger 1/8" thick piece of boxwood and shaped it to fit tightly against the two timbers I just just completed.  I tried to get real tight seams. At the same time,  it hangs off the side of the hull.  Then I traced the shape of the hull against the back of this piece.
 

 
Heres what the tracing looks like.  The piece was cut to shape on the scroll saw.
 

 
Then,  this piece was temporarily glued back in position with just a small dot of CA.   This was done because it will need to be removed after it is faired with the hull planking.  See below.  And as done before,  I drew another line to establish a 1/8" wide finished timber.  This was cut out and glued into position finishing the frame for the square tuck on this side of the hull.
 

 
Here is what it looks like.
 

 

 
Finally....it was planked inside with vertical planks the same width as the hull planking.  Tarred seams were simulated.   I was very careful to get very tight seams.   In actual practice these planks would be normal thickness and the ends resting in a rabbet along the edges of the square tuck frame.
 
In my case though,  I just faked it using planking that was actually 1/8" thick which is the same thickness as the frame.   It all worked out in the end.  I am quite pleased with the results as this is normally a really tough detail to model convincingly.   Now to touch up the red paint on the counter or maybe its just best to wait till the planking is all done.
 

 

 

 
I can now start planking the last belt  on the starboard side.

The Square tuck....Thank goodness this isnt a real POF project.  Here is the simplified version.
 
The photo below shows the first beam added which to create teh base for the stern post.  It runs down the center of the square tuck so I can glue the stern post on later.  It is 1/8" thick and 7/32" wide.  The same width as the stern post
 
The same photo below shows the second timber....how I took a wider piece that was 1/8" thick.  I shaped it so the seam between the lower counter and this timber was very tight.   Then I measured and marked it so it would be 1/8" wide as well.  This will of course be repeated on the other side once it is planked.
 

 
The finished timber below.
 

 
Then it was time to create the side piece which will finish the square tuck frame....this was the hardest piece but not that difficult at all.   I just took a larger 1/8" thick piece of boxwood and shaped it to fit tightly against the two timbers I just just completed.  I tried to get real tight seams. At the same time,  it hangs off the side of the hull.  Then I traced the shape of the hull against the back of this piece.
 

 
Heres what the tracing looks like.  The piece was cut to shape on the scroll saw.
 

 
Then,  this piece was temporarily glued back in position with just a small dot of CA.   This was done because it will need to be removed after it is faired with the hull planking.  See below.  And as done before,  I drew another line to establish a 1/8" wide finished timber.  This was cut out and glued into position finishing the frame for the square tuck on this side of the hull.
 

 
Here is what it looks like.
 

 

 
Finally....it was planked inside with vertical planks the same width as the hull planking.  Tarred seams were simulated.   I was very careful to get very tight seams.   In actual practice these planks would be normal thickness and the ends resting in a rabbet along the edges of the square tuck frame.
 
In my case though,  I just faked it using planking that was actually 1/8" thick which is the same thickness as the frame.   It all worked out in the end.  I am quite pleased with the results as this is normally a really tough detail to model convincingly.   Now to touch up the red paint on the counter or maybe its just best to wait till the planking is all done.
 

 

 

 
I can now start planking the last belt  on the starboard side.

The Square tuck....Thank goodness this isnt a real POF project.  Here is the simplified version.
 
The photo below shows the first beam added which to create teh base for the stern post.  It runs down the center of the square tuck so I can glue the stern post on later.  It is 1/8" thick and 7/32" wide.  The same width as the stern post
 
The same photo below shows the second timber....how I took a wider piece that was 1/8" thick.  I shaped it so the seam between the lower counter and this timber was very tight.   Then I measured and marked it so it would be 1/8" wide as well.  This will of course be repeated on the other side once it is planked.
 

 
The finished timber below.
 

 
Then it was time to create the side piece which will finish the square tuck frame....this was the hardest piece but not that difficult at all.   I just took a larger 1/8" thick piece of boxwood and shaped it to fit tightly against the two timbers I just just completed.  I tried to get real tight seams. At the same time,  it hangs off the side of the hull.  Then I traced the shape of the hull against the back of this piece.
 

 
Heres what the tracing looks like.  The piece was cut to shape on the scroll saw.
 

 
Then,  this piece was temporarily glued back in position with just a small dot of CA.   This was done because it will need to be removed after it is faired with the hull planking.  See below.  And as done before,  I drew another line to establish a 1/8" wide finished timber.  This was cut out and glued into position finishing the frame for the square tuck on this side of the hull.
 

 
Here is what it looks like.
 

 

 
Finally....it was planked inside with vertical planks the same width as the hull planking.  Tarred seams were simulated.   I was very careful to get very tight seams.   In actual practice these planks would be normal thickness and the ends resting in a rabbet along the edges of the square tuck frame.
 
In my case though,  I just faked it using planking that was actually 1/8" thick which is the same thickness as the frame.   It all worked out in the end.  I am quite pleased with the results as this is normally a really tough detail to model convincingly.   Now to touch up the red paint on the counter or maybe its just best to wait till the planking is all done.
 

 

 

 
I can now start planking the last belt  on the starboard side.

The Square tuck....Thank goodness this isnt a real POF project.  Here is the simplified version.
 
The photo below shows the first beam added which to create teh base for the stern post.  It runs down the center of the square tuck so I can glue the stern post on later.  It is 1/8" thick and 7/32" wide.  The same width as the stern post
 
The same photo below shows the second timber....how I took a wider piece that was 1/8" thick.  I shaped it so the seam between the lower counter and this timber was very tight.   Then I measured and marked it so it would be 1/8" wide as well.  This will of course be repeated on the other side once it is planked.
 

 
The finished timber below.
 

 
Then it was time to create the side piece which will finish the square tuck frame....this was the hardest piece but not that difficult at all.   I just took a larger 1/8" thick piece of boxwood and shaped it to fit tightly against the two timbers I just just completed.  I tried to get real tight seams. At the same time,  it hangs off the side of the hull.  Then I traced the shape of the hull against the back of this piece.
 

 
Heres what the tracing looks like.  The piece was cut to shape on the scroll saw.
 

 
Then,  this piece was temporarily glued back in position with just a small dot of CA.   This was done because it will need to be removed after it is faired with the hull planking.  See below.  And as done before,  I drew another line to establish a 1/8" wide finished timber.  This was cut out and glued into position finishing the frame for the square tuck on this side of the hull.
 

 
Here is what it looks like.
 

 

 
Finally....it was planked inside with vertical planks the same width as the hull planking.  Tarred seams were simulated.   I was very careful to get very tight seams.   In actual practice these planks would be normal thickness and the ends resting in a rabbet along the edges of the square tuck frame.
 
In my case though,  I just faked it using planking that was actually 1/8" thick which is the same thickness as the frame.   It all worked out in the end.  I am quite pleased with the results as this is normally a really tough detail to model convincingly.   Now to touch up the red paint on the counter or maybe its just best to wait till the planking is all done.
 

 

 

 
I can now start planking the last belt  on the starboard side.

Thanks
 
Any art store will have the pinstripe tape.   Graphic arts tape...
 
Clinker planking may in fact be easier for you but in the case of the Cheerful it would just be wrong historically.  I find it difficult to clinker plank a hull.  I havent seen many hulls that are done properly or to my satisfaction...so I chose a carvel planked hull.  I think most model builders prefer this anyway.  Its what they are used to.

Thanks
 
Any art store will have the pinstripe tape.   Graphic arts tape...
 
Clinker planking may in fact be easier for you but in the case of the Cheerful it would just be wrong historically.  I find it difficult to clinker plank a hull.  I havent seen many hulls that are done properly or to my satisfaction...so I chose a carvel planked hull.  I think most model builders prefer this anyway.  Its what they are used to.

Not Really Kurt
 
There are a few magazine articles,  the Peterson book on Rigging,  A few other books may have a nugget or two, but thats it.  Its pretty much spread all over the place.  You really cant count on the AOTS book for Alert.  Its much earlier than Cheerful.  The cutter didnt change all that much but there are still vast differences in some areas.   Its also has a few errors in it which have been discussed to death.  The windlass is one of them.
 
Luckily there are quite a few contemporary models of cutters out there.  There are also tons of plans for cutters on the NMM site.  AND the Cheerful plans are excellent in every respect. Very detailed which is why I chose it.
 
I pent the day planking.  Got the first belt done ob the starboard side.  It went quickly.  Only eight planks.   The starboard side is now half planked.  I must complete the square tuck on the starboard side next before I can plank the lower belt.  Luckily because its a POB design and NOT a fully framed model,  I dont have to follow actual practice for building the square tuck.   So based on my design I can do one half of the tuck at a time.  I am eager to get it done to see how it will work out.
 
Once the square tuck is done then I will plank the remaining 10 strakes in the lower belt....then I must repeat the process on the other side.  
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

 

I am not sure what you mean....wood list or materials list???   Since its a scratch project more or less there are no parts to inventory.  Except for those few I mentioned so far.
 
As far as a wood list goes...I do have a preliminary.  I wont know for certain until after I build her.  Its impossible to know before its built with 100% certainty.
 
The wood list I have used and stocked up on are as follows.  It should be very close. Remember that this is not a kit.
 
1/4" Ply 4' x 4'
 
All boxwood sheets are 24" long......and 3" wide
 
7/32" Boxwood sheet  2
1/4" ........1
1/8" ........2
5/32" .......2
3/16 .........5
1/16" .......3
1/32" .......3
.025 ........1
3/32" ........1 but maybe 2 sheets depending.
 
One 3/8" x 3/8"  strip for the lower mast 24" long
 
Basswood sheets....
 
1/32" ....two sheets
1/16" ...2 sheets

Thanks
 
Any art store will have the pinstripe tape.   Graphic arts tape...
 
Clinker planking may in fact be easier for you but in the case of the Cheerful it would just be wrong historically.  I find it difficult to clinker plank a hull.  I havent seen many hulls that are done properly or to my satisfaction...so I chose a carvel planked hull.  I think most model builders prefer this anyway.  Its what they are used to.

Thanks
 
Its all Boxwood and from Hobbymill.   Jeff was kind enough to cut me all the wood for the lower planking and the remainder of the project from a really nice piece.  Its the best boxwood I have ever seen.  
 
Heres a picture...I should have waited so I could use this better stuff above teh wales...but most of that will be covered up anyway.  So it should be OK.
 

 
Chuck
 
OH and another not so flattering image of the square tuck on that contemporary model.  Lots of cracks and damage.  It looks pretty beat up.  Also the last photo shows teh cheerful drawing I made.....you can see the differences
 
I dont think its the original blue paint on that model.   My reason is that you can see bits of it within the splits and cracks which means it was painted after the cracks developed.
 

 

I will do that on the next update.....
 
Christian...It is the square tuck that you are seeing.  Its actually curved slightly to follow the counter.   So you see it as a triangle on the plan.  Thats what I am going to start next.  Shouldnt be long before another update with that.  See what it looks like on the Rogers Collection cutter model.
 

 
Chuck

Not Really Kurt
 
There are a few magazine articles,  the Peterson book on Rigging,  A few other books may have a nugget or two, but thats it.  Its pretty much spread all over the place.  You really cant count on the AOTS book for Alert.  Its much earlier than Cheerful.  The cutter didnt change all that much but there are still vast differences in some areas.   Its also has a few errors in it which have been discussed to death.  The windlass is one of them.
 
Luckily there are quite a few contemporary models of cutters out there.  There are also tons of plans for cutters on the NMM site.  AND the Cheerful plans are excellent in every respect. Very detailed which is why I chose it.
 
I pent the day planking.  Got the first belt done ob the starboard side.  It went quickly.  Only eight planks.   The starboard side is now half planked.  I must complete the square tuck on the starboard side next before I can plank the lower belt.  Luckily because its a POB design and NOT a fully framed model,  I dont have to follow actual practice for building the square tuck.   So based on my design I can do one half of the tuck at a time.  I am eager to get it done to see how it will work out.
 
Once the square tuck is done then I will plank the remaining 10 strakes in the lower belt....then I must repeat the process on the other side.  
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

 

Jan
 
The square tuck frame should be rabbeted so the hull planking and square tuck planking has the the butt ends protected from the elements.   The lower counter planking has its butt ends protected by the fashion pieces.  The strip between the lower counter and the square tuck is just a fancy molding strip and cosmetic.
 
I have about 40 pictures of this model from every conceivable angle.  Just havent had the time to reduce them so I can post them.
 
But if you want to see any particular area let me know and I will reduce and post those....If you click on the picture above in that post it gets really big...you can see that detail..The fancy molding strip is placed too low however on that model in my opinion.  The frame for the square tuck needs to be a consistent width all of the way around to look good.  Thats the hard part but in a few steps it can be done without incident.
 
Chuck

Thanks
 
Its all Boxwood and from Hobbymill.   Jeff was kind enough to cut me all the wood for the lower planking and the remainder of the project from a really nice piece.  Its the best boxwood I have ever seen.  
 
Heres a picture...I should have waited so I could use this better stuff above teh wales...but most of that will be covered up anyway.  So it should be OK.
 

 
Chuck
 
OH and another not so flattering image of the square tuck on that contemporary model.  Lots of cracks and damage.  It looks pretty beat up.  Also the last photo shows teh cheerful drawing I made.....you can see the differences
 
I dont think its the original blue paint on that model.   My reason is that you can see bits of it within the splits and cracks which means it was painted after the cracks developed.
 

 

I am not sure what you mean....wood list or materials list???   Since its a scratch project more or less there are no parts to inventory.  Except for those few I mentioned so far.
 
As far as a wood list goes...I do have a preliminary.  I wont know for certain until after I build her.  Its impossible to know before its built with 100% certainty.
 
The wood list I have used and stocked up on are as follows.  It should be very close. Remember that this is not a kit.
 
1/4" Ply 4' x 4'
 
All boxwood sheets are 24" long......and 3" wide
 
7/32" Boxwood sheet  2
1/4" ........1
1/8" ........2
5/32" .......2
3/16 .........5
1/16" .......3
1/32" .......3
.025 ........1
3/32" ........1 but maybe 2 sheets depending.
 
One 3/8" x 3/8"  strip for the lower mast 24" long
 
Basswood sheets....
 
1/32" ....two sheets
1/16" ...2 sheets

Yes but its easy enough to do the conversion....in fact there are many translators on the web for free.  You type in the imperial number and it gives you the metric equivalent.  If its close you will be good to go.  I wish I could do more but short of doing the translations myself for every part and material (which I wont do)   I dont see how it could cause a problem.   
 
Use this chart
 
http://mdmetric.com/tech/cvtcht.htm
 
Couldnt you order your wood in in imperial measurements if they are being milled for you in the UK?  If I ask say Jeff to cut me stock at 3mm thick he will certainly do that.  Wouldnt a source in the UK do that too but in reverse?  If not,  just use the chart to convert before ordering.   But I cant take the time to do this many conversions.  You will have to print out the chart when ordering your wood and possibly order a ruler or two with imperial measurements on it for the project.  Then you are good to go.  All materials will be listed in the monograph with imperial sizes when I use them....so you will know how large to cut stuff by using your new imperial ruler of measurement.  All of my rulers have metric on one side and imperial on the other so I dont see why it causes a problem if you had one of these and used a conversion chart.  I do it all the time.
 
Chuck

I am not sure what you mean....wood list or materials list???   Since its a scratch project more or less there are no parts to inventory.  Except for those few I mentioned so far.
 
As far as a wood list goes...I do have a preliminary.  I wont know for certain until after I build her.  Its impossible to know before its built with 100% certainty.
 
The wood list I have used and stocked up on are as follows.  It should be very close. Remember that this is not a kit.
 
1/4" Ply 4' x 4'
 
All boxwood sheets are 24" long......and 3" wide
 
7/32" Boxwood sheet  2
1/4" ........1
1/8" ........2
5/32" .......2
3/16 .........5
1/16" .......3
1/32" .......3
.025 ........1
3/32" ........1 but maybe 2 sheets depending.
 
One 3/8" x 3/8"  strip for the lower mast 24" long
 
Basswood sheets....
 
1/32" ....two sheets
1/16" ...2 sheets

Thanks
 
Its all Boxwood and from Hobbymill.   Jeff was kind enough to cut me all the wood for the lower planking and the remainder of the project from a really nice piece.  Its the best boxwood I have ever seen.  
 
Heres a picture...I should have waited so I could use this better stuff above teh wales...but most of that will be covered up anyway.  So it should be OK.
 

 
Chuck
 
OH and another not so flattering image of the square tuck on that contemporary model.  Lots of cracks and damage.  It looks pretty beat up.  Also the last photo shows teh cheerful drawing I made.....you can see the differences
 
I dont think its the original blue paint on that model.   My reason is that you can see bits of it within the splits and cracks which means it was painted after the cracks developed.
 

 

I am not sure what you mean....wood list or materials list???   Since its a scratch project more or less there are no parts to inventory.  Except for those few I mentioned so far.
 
As far as a wood list goes...I do have a preliminary.  I wont know for certain until after I build her.  Its impossible to know before its built with 100% certainty.
 
The wood list I have used and stocked up on are as follows.  It should be very close. Remember that this is not a kit.
 
1/4" Ply 4' x 4'
 
All boxwood sheets are 24" long......and 3" wide
 
7/32" Boxwood sheet  2
1/4" ........1
1/8" ........2
5/32" .......2
3/16 .........5
1/16" .......3
1/32" .......3
.025 ........1
3/32" ........1 but maybe 2 sheets depending.
 
One 3/8" x 3/8"  strip for the lower mast 24" long
 
Basswood sheets....
 
1/32" ....two sheets
1/16" ...2 sheets

And one last image of the contemporary planking expansion detail.   It shows the square tuck pretty well.  For those that might have one on there model although its unlikely.  I have never seen a kit that shows one.  They are usually left off because they can be rather complex.  You can also see the number of planks....twenty which matches my model exactly.   Ten down to the bottom of the square tuck and ten more below that.  Hence the two planking belts I used.
 
Chuck
 

Thanks
 
Its all Boxwood and from Hobbymill.   Jeff was kind enough to cut me all the wood for the lower planking and the remainder of the project from a really nice piece.  Its the best boxwood I have ever seen.  
 
Heres a picture...I should have waited so I could use this better stuff above teh wales...but most of that will be covered up anyway.  So it should be OK.
 

 
Chuck
 
OH and another not so flattering image of the square tuck on that contemporary model.  Lots of cracks and damage.  It looks pretty beat up.  Also the last photo shows teh cheerful drawing I made.....you can see the differences
 
I dont think its the original blue paint on that model.   My reason is that you can see bits of it within the splits and cracks which means it was painted after the cracks developed.
 

 

Jan
 
The square tuck frame should be rabbeted so the hull planking and square tuck planking has the the butt ends protected from the elements.   The lower counter planking has its butt ends protected by the fashion pieces.  The strip between the lower counter and the square tuck is just a fancy molding strip and cosmetic.
 
I have about 40 pictures of this model from every conceivable angle.  Just havent had the time to reduce them so I can post them.
 
But if you want to see any particular area let me know and I will reduce and post those....If you click on the picture above in that post it gets really big...you can see that detail..The fancy molding strip is placed too low however on that model in my opinion.  The frame for the square tuck needs to be a consistent width all of the way around to look good.  Thats the hard part but in a few steps it can be done without incident.
 
Chuck

I will do that on the next update.....
 
Christian...It is the square tuck that you are seeing.  Its actually curved slightly to follow the counter.   So you see it as a triangle on the plan.  Thats what I am going to start next.  Shouldnt be long before another update with that.  See what it looks like on the Rogers Collection cutter model.
 

 
Chuck

I think that little bit wont matter.  You may have to adjust the slot widths in the bulkheads and bulkhead former...but thats it.  The plans for example call for 1/16" thick planking....because its a readily available size....but because I am milling my own stock,  the planks are actually 3/64" thick.   That is closer to scale and easier to work with.   So feel free as I have done to change things up.   As long as you think ahead or shoot me the question before hand,  you should be good to go.  Again this is the beauty of a scratch build.  You have some flexibility as long as you think through the consequences.  Following the plans will do the trick...when you adjust any wood sizes...think about what you will need to adjust on the plans....but it may not even be needed.
 
Chuck