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Erik W

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  1. Erik W
    That is a gorgeous ship Dave! And no worries about hijacking the topic. You're just showing how good cherry can look. You're using cherry as I had envisioned it, on the lower hull. I like the look of bare wood enough that I've though if I ever build a ship that would have had a coppered bottom, I'd use a darker wood rather than copper plates to visually separate the below-the-waterline portion from the rest of the hull. Erik
  2. Erik W
    "The sapwood plank on Dave's hull adds character, interest, and makes it evident that the hull is indeed made up of individual planks. A story could be told about the need to replace a damaged plank while on a distant voyage - using local lumber. Certainly not a far fetched scenario." Jaager, I was thinking the same thing. Erik
  3. Erik W
    Greg, I wonder if in the case of Dave's photo above, of the light color cherry plank, if he had let the wood sit out for a while before he used it, if it would have darkened enough to tell ahead of time that some of it (the sap wood?) wouldn't darken like the rest? Erik
  4. Erik W
    Greg, That's interesting. Does it continuously darken over time, or does it get to a point it doesn't darken any more? Thanks, Erik
  5. Erik W
    Dave, Your build looks great, but wow, I see what you mean about certain planks not darkening. Is there any way you can remove the the lighter planks and re-plank with wood closer to the color of the other planks? That's a beautiful planking job. It would be a shame to paint over it. What ship is that? It looks like a Swan class sloop. Erik
  6. Erik W
    Eibwen, It's the 74 gun 1774 HMS Cumberland of the Elizabeth class. Here is a link to an amazing model of her: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3338-hms-cumberland-by-alexbaranov-1774-136/?hl=cumberland Erik
  7. Erik W
    Thanks Mark! I keep hearing things about ebony. Being a wood-type neophyte, what are the issues with it? Thanks, Erik
  8. Erik W
    Oh! And regarding hobby time and progress on the ship. I was divorced a few years ago, don't have kids, . . . and it's winter here in Colorado . . . so to avoid going crazy, I need to be working on something daily. I can foresee slowing down as the days get longer and the temperature warmer though. Erik
  9. Erik W
    This particular build is hard to define. I'd call it a scratch-kit . . . Or maybe an ala-carte kit . . . Or scratch-build light. Chuck offers the laser cut keel, false keel, and bulkheads, and offers others parts as mini kits. The modeler can buy all, some, or none. The buyer then sources the timber themselves. In this case, I bought a timbering package from Crown Timberyard. So, in a way, as I'm building it, it's a kit . . . but with me buying the components individually from different sources. I would say, realistically that both the terms kit-built, and scratch-built are both on a continuum from one end of the spectrum to the other. I think specifically these Cheerful builds are in the scratch-built section of this forum because that's where Chuck's initial scratch build of the Cheerful started, and other's early on had cut the keel, false keel, and bulkheads themselves. For me, it doesn't really matter what I call it, it's just an enjoyable build, and seems to me anyway, like a good transition between a full kit (everything in one box), and a true scratch build. Erik
  10. Erik W
    Thanks Chuck. That does seem to be a trend the world over. Fewer trees + more humans using wood = more difficult time finding quality lumber. Erik
  11. Erik W
    Ed, I think my lack of clutter can be attributed to a my tool collection being on the light side. It seems that every step of the way, I need to purchase something in order to complete the step! One of the things I like about the Cheerful is I'm able to get started with a minimum of tools, particularly expensive power tools, and acquire things as money allows . . . and it clarifies in my mind how involved I want to get into the hobby. Per, Once you get moved in and set up again, you'll be ready to start on your next project! Eirk
  12. Erik W
    I'm currently using Castello Boxwood on my Cheerful build, and am happy with it. It does seem like a harder-to-come-by wood than some of our native North American wood species. I'm curious, has anyone used Cherry (aka Black Cherry, American Cherry - Prunus serotina) for a ship build? How was it to work with? How does the finished build look? Thanks! Erik
  13. Erik W
    I always thought it was HMS Cumberland 1774, since it has Posidon as the figurehead. Scanned from the National Maritime Museum website. http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/80776.html Erik
  14. Erik W
    A couple of quick grab shots. I tested the smoothness of my fairing job by temporarily fastening a batten strip at various positions on the hull. It's smooth! Erik
  15. Erik W
    I finished the first rough fairing on the port side. I've done a whole lot of sanding over the last week!! There are spots I need to touch up, particularly at the bow, but I'll wait to address those until I do the fairing after I frame the gun ports. Erik
  16. Erik W
    Mike, Thanks! I did hold the batten strip down in several areas. The run is smooth, and it lays flat on all the bulkheads. I'm waiting to tack it down until I do the other side. I know I need to remove a little more material at the bow. I'll wait to tweak the bow area when I have both sides faired. That way I can make sure both sides are symmetrical. I'm a little paranoid about removing too much material, so I'll really go over everything meticulously after the gun ports are framed, and I do that final fairing. Erik
  17. Erik W
    I did the first rough fairing of one half of the Cheerful hull. There are a couple spots that need more work. I'll touch those up when I do the final fairing after framing the gun ports. It was quite an undertaking compared to fairing the much smaller longboat. Sanding the 5-ply plywood that constitutes the bulkheads makes for some slow sanding! After initial material removal with a 60 grit sanding block, I did wind up mainly using the 7" long flexible nail files that are 120 grit. I also made a sanding block out of a 1" dowel with 150 grit sandpaper glued to it to sand the concave rear part of the hull. The two curved sanding blocks I made I didn't wind up using. The flexible nail files did a better job. Now . . . on to the other side . . . Erik
  18. Erik W
    Deon, Great!! I'm glad to see that you can finally get started. I'll be following your progress. Erik
  19. Erik W
    One good rule of thumb for members of MSW is, if it's not a photo you took yourself, post a link to the photo, rather than the photo itself. While not as visually pleasing as clicking into a topic with the photos already there, as a viewer you're still only a click away from seeing the photo. And it saves the hassle of potential copyright issues. Erik
  20. Erik W
    Mike, The deck planking looks great so far. I'm enjoying these tutorial type posts of yours! Erik
  21. Erik W
    Ed, I think your combo on the 1/72 scale framed Young American and your 1/96 scale POB ship are a great combo of techniques, especially since one will be rigged. It gives a builder interested in a clipper ship a tutorial on building either hull style, in either scale, rigged or unrigged. Lots of options to choose from! And . . . I blame your excellent build logs for casuing me to buy a copy of: The American-Built Clipper Ship, 1850-1856 by William L. Crothers. Erik
  22. Erik W
    Rusty, Great to have you join the Cheerful crowd! I've enjoyed reading through your other build logs. And . . . don't get too busy modeling to take photos! Erik
  23. Erik W
    Mark, Chuck, Thanks! While I'm in no particular hurry, starting the fairing with 120 & 220 grit sanding sticks/blocks like I did seemed like an exercise in futility! Erik
  24. Erik W
    I need some advice. I started fairing the hull. I'm curious what grit sand paper people are using for the initial fairing. The plywood bulkheads are much harder wood than the longboat bulkheads. So, I know this will take a while. My sanding blocks don't really seem to be working, so I'm using 7 inch 120 grit emory boards. They are flexible, so seem to handle the shape of the hull well, other than the bow area . . . which also needs a lot more material removed. So, my questions are what grit sand paper do you start fairing the hull with? And, what type of sanding block/device are you using for this? Thanks, Erik
  25. Erik W
    Cathead, I'm not sure where my model railroading interest went the last few of years . . . it seems to have resurfaced as an interest in ships! Bob, Yes, space always seems to be at a premium doesn't it? Erik

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