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Erik W

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Everything posted by Erik W

  1. Wow. That's some delicate work! Your scarph joints also look great. Erik
  2. I should have everything finished in about a week or so. I'll post a bunch of photos with the boat on the display stand when it's finished. Erik
  3. The rope is untreated. I used Syren Ship Model Company's rope as is. I used 50/50 diluted matt medium on the rope coils to get them to hold their shape, and also to secure my seizings and knots. Erik
  4. I finished the rigging and their associated rope coils. I'm working on the grapnel now, then it's just a matter of adding the oars, windlass handles, and rudder. I had a small brass plaque made at a local trophy/awards shop, so the final display base should look pretty sharp. Erik
  5. Thanks for the kind words guys! Mike, yeah I'm on the home stretch now. I ordered a small brass name plate from a trophy/award shop last week. I think the boat will really look nice when finished and displayed. Erik
  6. Looks good Mike! If you're like me, this rigging thing is a totally new experience. In my own case it's a rewarding process . . . but is giving me an ulcer at the same time! Like with the rest of the boat, take it slow. I've gained confidence as I've progressed with the rigging. I'm sure you will too. I'm looking forward to seeing your results! Erik
  7. I attached the shrouds and stays. I'm enjoying the rigging, though there is a steep learning curve since I haven't done anything like it before. Erik
  8. Mike, It really looks great! I like how you've really gotten into the use of your airbrush on this build. I know you weren't entirely happy with the brush painting of your longboat. Seems like you've adapted to emphasize your strengths. Your perfectionism and the high standards you set for yourself are really paying off. Your build is incredibly clean and crisp. Being relatively new to this like you are, you are definitively a role model for those of us just getting started. While I'm at it, I've always admired your willingness (and this includes on your longboat) to pull things apart and start over when you're not satisfied. Your results show your high standards. Erik
  9. Mark, I just stumbled onto your build log. Impressive!! The Hahn building method intrigues me. I'll be following your progress. Erik
  10. Paul, Of the 4 models listed, I think you should go with the Armed Sloop Virginia as a second build. Like Brian said, the rigging is more complicated, which will get you prepared for the Constitution build. The Bounty launch is similar enough to the longboat that I don't now if it will really give you the opportunity to enhance your skills much beyond what you've already developed with the longboat. That said, anything you build at this point is just more practice for a bigger build down the road. Erik
  11. Paul, Well done! Your longboat looks great. I'm in the rigging stage of mine, so appreciate your advice on some of this stuff. Do you have any plans for a future boat/ship build? Erik
  12. I attached the chainplates. I used a ruler held up against the side of the boat to figure out the correct angle each chain plate needed to be attached so as to have a straight line towards the area of the mast where the shrouds and backstays will be seized. Erik
  13. Mike, What brand paint are you using? Also, one thing I've done in the past to make a durable finish on brass with acrylic paint is to put the parts under a hot bright light bulb for 5 minute or so, this basically bakes the paint on and it's less likely to chip (be careful with glue or solder joints). If you're having adhesion problems though, it could be poor quality paint. In addition to the above brands, Testors Model Master acrylics are good. You may also try a non-acrylic paint. They are a bit more hazardous, but generally adhere better. Erik
  14. Mike, I never bother to clean the metal before I paint it, and haven't had a problem. I rarely have issues with chipping. If I do, I just touch it up when I'm finished with assembly. Erik
  15. Mike, I used Polly Scale Engine Black acrylic paint. It has been discontinued. With many years of model railroading under my belt, I have a lot of these railroad colors. I'm not sure what I'll do when they dry up/run out . . . If you're looking for a good black acrylic paint for brush painting, Vallejo paints are among the best out there. I've applied them with a brush and they leave an even coat with no brush marks. http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/Also, Ryland Craze, in his build log, says these paints are good: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/850-18th-century-longboat-by-ryland-craze-model-shipways-148/?p=368056 I've also used Testors Model Master acrylic paint with good results. Erik
  16. Well done Dave! That's a really nice gesture for your doctor. Erik
  17. I made the chainplates. They were a total pain in the butt! I have many rejects. I figured soldering would be the way to go, but the wire doesn't solder. So, I went the super glue route. At any rate, in real life they look perfectly fine. Keep in mind in this photo they are about 350% their normal size! Erik
  18. As long as we're talking about Badger paint, what marine color red did you use? Erik
  19. I made the rope coils. I made a jig using two brass rods, with the smaller diameter rod at the top and a larger one at the bottom. The rods were put into a block of wood that was covered with clear packing tape (to keep the finished coils from sticking). In order to get the 90 degree bend of the rope, I attached one rod on the top of the block and one on the side. I looped the rope around the rods and saturated them with a 50/50 mix of matt medium and water. Once dry, I removed the rope coils from the jig and glued them in place by saturating them again with more diluted matt medium mix. This allowed me to tweak the coils in place. Erik
  20. Mike, It looks great! I recently attached the mast on my longboat. While being careful to not break the mast, I snapped off the bowsprit! Luckily my mounting to the stem wasn't very solid, so it didn't break the stem. I've debated fastening the boat to the base now, knowing the boat willbe pretty hard to handle by the time it's fully rigged. Erik
  21. Brian, Thanks for the advice. My knot failures were my own fault. I had tied them, hit them with diluted matt medium, let that dry, and then trimmed the knot ends close to the knot. I got the great idea to dab a little more diluted matt medium on the knot and use tweezers to clean up the knots a bit . . . not realizing that by wetting the knot it would soften the original treatment. Lesson learned! Erik
  22. Dave, Good job!! It's hard to believe you've only been working on this for a little over two months! That's some quick building. I've been working on my longboat for 5 months, and still haven't finished. Make sure you post photos of the presentation to your doctor. Erik
  23. Mike, Danny, Thanks for the kind words! Danny, Once I permanently attached the mast a few days ago, I've had some near misses with misjudging the new size of the boat. Also, I'm doing my build with the kit supplied basswood, though it does seem pretty strong at this point . . . it's the Wipe-on-Poly holding all together. Erik
  24. After a couple of false starts, I got the first part of the rigging compete. It's a bit stressful to work on . . . I feel like I'm going to break something! While trying to keep my knots small and unobtrusive, I had a couple of the them come out, and had to redo them and alter how I was gluing/handling them. I didn't like the parrel beads that came with the kit so I wound up, buying size 11 seed beads at a craft store and using those instead. They're 1.7mm long vs. the 2.3mm beads that came with the kit. One of the things that has attracted me to wooden ship modeling is how boats and ships look when fully rigged. I have high expectations of how this will turn out, tempered by being a complete novice though. I'm happy, more or less, with the results so far. There's room for improvement as I continue, but the results are in line with the quality of the rest of the build. Can't ask for too much more as a beginner! Erik
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