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Erik W

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Everything posted by Erik W

  1. Erik W
    Got the rudder done. It's sitting a little weird in the photos. Once the masting and rigging are finished and I permanently attach it, it'll snug up to the hull better at the top. Erik
  2. Erik W
    Mike, The counter looks great. Air brushing is a good idea. The coat of paint is thin enough, you can still see the shape of the individual planks. Erik
  3. Erik W
    Joss, The belaying pin part number is: WP0410 I look forward to seeing more progress on your longboat! Erik
  4. Erik W
    Per, It looks like others have answered your question. For reference though, here are a couple photos from the National Maritime Museum in Greenwich, England's website that show the detail of the windlass in longboats. Erik
  5. Erik W
    David, I've looked at that New Bedford Whaleboat. It looks pretty cool, but I'm not really interested in doing another boat at his point. Also, there are enough low quality materials (basswood, etc.) in this longboat kit, that I don't think I'd build another ship from a kit. Mike, I haven't seriously thought about doing a fully framed model. I like my framing covered , so a POB build would be ideal. If I did built the Echo cross-section I'd leave half the model without planking though. What appeals to me about the both Cheerful and the Echo cross section are that they are basically scratch-builders-light builds, with plans, instructions, and wood available. They're a good intro into full scratch building. Erik
  6. Erik W
    I've been sharing my photos of the build with my dad. His reaction to the last set was that he couldn't see the detail of the windlass. Point taken. So here's a shot with the lighting at a low enough angle to show the shaped windlass to good effect. It's a bit dark, but you get the point. The holes for the handles are not centered because each side is offset, as seen in the photos of the longboat model at the NMM. The ends are also rounded, rather than 8 sided. David, I'm seriously considering Chuck's Cheerful as a second build, also the Echo cross section looks like a fun project. Though different, both look like they'd be the same commitment level as far as build time. My ultimate goal (3rd build?) is I'd like to build a fully rigged frigate (Chuck's Winchelsea maybe) or a ship-of-the-line (perhaps using Alex M's 64-Gun HMS Anson plans . . . or if Chuck does a 74-gun ship at some point . . . I see the background to this page is the HMS Cumberland. A hint Chuck? ). But I'm getting ahead of myself . . . Erik P.S. - I'm really looking forward to working with boxwood.
  7. Erik W
    Danny, I was committed to building this kit as-is when I started this project, knowing full well that upgrading the wood would produce better results. So, I also am happy with the results I'm getting with this type of wood. The main tests for me with this kit are the skill development aspects that are specific to ship modeling. Also, I wanted to see how deeply the ship modeling bug has bitten before I spend more money on this hobby That said, I'm happy to say this is a lot of fun and very fulfilling. So, there will be a second build . . . and it will most definitely involve using higher quality woods. Erik
  8. Erik W
    I finished the windlass and handles. I followed the prototype longboat model photos in the Greenwich Maritime Museum for inspiration. The windlass has rounded ends and the holes in the windlass for the handles are offset. Adds a bit of interest to that part of the boat. As I've found on other parts of the boat, the soft, "fluffy" basswood is hard to shape crisp details from . . . Erik
  9. Erik W
    Good job Mike. It looks great!! You and Chuck are really setting the bar high. Erik
  10. Erik W
    A quick shot of the oarlocks I added. I used .019" brass wire I had instead of the .023" wire included with the kit. Erik
  11. Erik W
    Danny, David, Thanks for the kind words! I think one thing I've learned as I've progressed through this build is to take it sloooowly. The results of slow, planned, methodical building seem to be bearing fruit. I'm looking forward to the masting and rigging aspects of the build. Erik
  12. Erik W
    I attached all the knees, as well as the horse in front of the transom. I'll do the oarlocks next. After that . . . there's no more procrastinating doing the windlass. Erik
  13. Erik W
    Mike, I had lost track of this build for a while . It's looking great! You're making good progress. Erik
  14. Erik W
    Looks awesome! I agree with you, this longboat build is a lot of fun. I find myself wishing I could leave work early to go home and work on it! Erik
  15. Erik W
    Greg, Does the $275 price for the fitting out package also include the framing package? Or is the $275 in addition to the $195 needed for the framing package? Is the lumber for this basic sheet stock with the dimensional strips to be milled by the modeler? Or does the lumber in these packages include the milled dimensional strips? I'm trying to figure out what to do for my second build. It's either something like this, or Chuck's Cheerful. Thanks! Erik
  16. Erik W
    Thanks for the kind words! I painted the brass black after I shaped it, but before I glued it on. I touched it up after the parts were attached. I had blackened the lift rings when I added them the other day. The blackening seemed easy to rub off, so I figure with the parts that will be handled more when attaching, I'll use black paint. Erik
  17. Erik W
    I finished the thwart that the mast will be attached to. The brass work was more difficult than I expected. The material is soft and noodley. At any rate, I think it came out well. I was able to match the paint on the belaying pins to the wood color pretty decently. Erik
  18. Erik W
    Here's what I've been working on this week. I built the cockpit. Since I was doing metal work, I also added the two lift rings on the center bottom plank. Erik
  19. Erik W
    I'm back from my trip to Wales and England, and back working on the longboat. I've added the curved piece attached to the cap rail at the bow, the front part of the locker at the stern, and the thwarts (not including the one the mast will go in). Erik
  20. Erik W
    Paul, It's good to see another longboat build! The longboat is a fun kit, and it's perfect for developing the skills for larger, future projects. Erik
  21. Erik W
    Chuck, Just to clarify, were the curved deck planks shaped from wider wood strips, or were they edge bent? Erik
  22. Erik W
    Mike, That looks great! I admire your desire for excellence in your builds. Also, I like that, though a pain in the butt, you don't mind tearing out stuff you've already done, and starting over. That's a good example for others who strive to kick it up a notch with their builds. Erik
  23. Erik W
    Mike, Looks great. Did you use left over kit supplied wood for the tiller, or something of your own? Erik
  24. Erik W
    One last photo for a while (I'm heading to Wales and western England for vacation for a couple of weeks ). I attached the risers. I made jigs out of styrene to make sure the height was uniform for the entire length of the riser. I glued the riser to 5 or 6 frames at a time with PVA, holding the jig in place above, so had time to adjust it, and then moved on to the next section. The photo isn't that great. the bright halogen light I use for photographs makes the riser's finish look splotchy, it's not in person. I scribed fairly deep grooves in both risers. But they disappeared when I soaked the riser in water to get the edge bend at the bow! I am annoyed, but not worried that it will detract from the overall look. I've tested the stain/WOP on a scribed thwart and it holds the scribe fine. Erik
  25. Erik W
    A few photos of the interior of the longboat with the bow and cockpit platforms installed. Erik

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