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Erik W

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Everything posted by Erik W

  1. Per, It looks like others have answered your question. For reference though, here are a couple photos from the National Maritime Museum in Greenwich, England's website that show the detail of the windlass in longboats. Erik
  2. David, I've looked at that New Bedford Whaleboat. It looks pretty cool, but I'm not really interested in doing another boat at his point. Also, there are enough low quality materials (basswood, etc.) in this longboat kit, that I don't think I'd build another ship from a kit. Mike, I haven't seriously thought about doing a fully framed model. I like my framing covered , so a POB build would be ideal. If I did built the Echo cross-section I'd leave half the model without planking though. What appeals to me about the both Cheerful and the Echo cross section are that they are basically scratch-builders-light builds, with plans, instructions, and wood available. They're a good intro into full scratch building. Erik
  3. I've been sharing my photos of the build with my dad. His reaction to the last set was that he couldn't see the detail of the windlass. Point taken. So here's a shot with the lighting at a low enough angle to show the shaped windlass to good effect. It's a bit dark, but you get the point. The holes for the handles are not centered because each side is offset, as seen in the photos of the longboat model at the NMM. The ends are also rounded, rather than 8 sided. David, I'm seriously considering Chuck's Cheerful as a second build, also the Echo cross section looks like a fun project. Though different, both look like they'd be the same commitment level as far as build time. My ultimate goal (3rd build?) is I'd like to build a fully rigged frigate (Chuck's Winchelsea maybe) or a ship-of-the-line (perhaps using Alex M's 64-Gun HMS Anson plans . . . or if Chuck does a 74-gun ship at some point . . . I see the background to this page is the HMS Cumberland. A hint Chuck? ). But I'm getting ahead of myself . . . Erik P.S. - I'm really looking forward to working with boxwood.
  4. Danny, I was committed to building this kit as-is when I started this project, knowing full well that upgrading the wood would produce better results. So, I also am happy with the results I'm getting with this type of wood. The main tests for me with this kit are the skill development aspects that are specific to ship modeling. Also, I wanted to see how deeply the ship modeling bug has bitten before I spend more money on this hobby That said, I'm happy to say this is a lot of fun and very fulfilling. So, there will be a second build . . . and it will most definitely involve using higher quality woods. Erik
  5. I finished the windlass and handles. I followed the prototype longboat model photos in the Greenwich Maritime Museum for inspiration. The windlass has rounded ends and the holes in the windlass for the handles are offset. Adds a bit of interest to that part of the boat. As I've found on other parts of the boat, the soft, "fluffy" basswood is hard to shape crisp details from . . . Erik
  6. Good job Mike. It looks great!! You and Chuck are really setting the bar high. Erik
  7. A quick shot of the oarlocks I added. I used .019" brass wire I had instead of the .023" wire included with the kit. Erik
  8. Danny, David, Thanks for the kind words! I think one thing I've learned as I've progressed through this build is to take it sloooowly. The results of slow, planned, methodical building seem to be bearing fruit. I'm looking forward to the masting and rigging aspects of the build. Erik
  9. I attached all the knees, as well as the horse in front of the transom. I'll do the oarlocks next. After that . . . there's no more procrastinating doing the windlass. Erik
  10. Mike, I had lost track of this build for a while . It's looking great! You're making good progress. Erik
  11. Looks awesome! I agree with you, this longboat build is a lot of fun. I find myself wishing I could leave work early to go home and work on it! Erik
  12. Thanks for the kind words! I painted the brass black after I shaped it, but before I glued it on. I touched it up after the parts were attached. I had blackened the lift rings when I added them the other day. The blackening seemed easy to rub off, so I figure with the parts that will be handled more when attaching, I'll use black paint. Erik
  13. I finished the thwart that the mast will be attached to. The brass work was more difficult than I expected. The material is soft and noodley. At any rate, I think it came out well. I was able to match the paint on the belaying pins to the wood color pretty decently. Erik
  14. Here's what I've been working on this week. I built the cockpit. Since I was doing metal work, I also added the two lift rings on the center bottom plank. Erik
  15. I'm back from my trip to Wales and England, and back working on the longboat. I've added the curved piece attached to the cap rail at the bow, the front part of the locker at the stern, and the thwarts (not including the one the mast will go in). Erik
  16. Paul, It's good to see another longboat build! The longboat is a fun kit, and it's perfect for developing the skills for larger, future projects. Erik
  17. Chuck, Just to clarify, were the curved deck planks shaped from wider wood strips, or were they edge bent? Erik
  18. Mike, That looks great! I admire your desire for excellence in your builds. Also, I like that, though a pain in the butt, you don't mind tearing out stuff you've already done, and starting over. That's a good example for others who strive to kick it up a notch with their builds. Erik
  19. Mike, Looks great. Did you use left over kit supplied wood for the tiller, or something of your own? Erik
  20. One last photo for a while (I'm heading to Wales and western England for vacation for a couple of weeks ). I attached the risers. I made jigs out of styrene to make sure the height was uniform for the entire length of the riser. I glued the riser to 5 or 6 frames at a time with PVA, holding the jig in place above, so had time to adjust it, and then moved on to the next section. The photo isn't that great. the bright halogen light I use for photographs makes the riser's finish look splotchy, it's not in person. I scribed fairly deep grooves in both risers. But they disappeared when I soaked the riser in water to get the edge bend at the bow! I am annoyed, but not worried that it will detract from the overall look. I've tested the stain/WOP on a scribed thwart and it holds the scribe fine. Erik
  21. A couple of quick shots of the two platforms. I wasn't comfortable gluing the edges of the boards. I didn't want to have glue smudges before I stain/poly. I used left over .020" planking material along the bottoms and glued the boards to them. This also reinforces the platforms to keep them flat when I stain/poly. A considerable amount of sanding was necessary to get the bow platform to snug down low enough in the hull. Erik
  22. Bob, Your planking is coming along great! I've been considering building the Cheerful as my second build, but have been wondering if it's feasible since I also don't own a table saw. It's nice to see that you're making it work. To follow up on Terry's question. Did you put together a custom order with Crown? Or did you just order the quantity of wood you needed by ordering the appropriate number of 10-pack packets? I'm trying to figure out how the cost of ordering the already cut strip-wood compares to ordering the block sizes and buying a Brynes table saw. I assume ordering the strip-wood is still less expensive than purchasing wood blocks and a table saw. Erik
  23. I glued in the floorboards. I used pieces of .030" stryene as temporary spacers between the boards as I was gluing them in so they would be a uniform distance from one another. Also, now that I'm working on the interior, I'm using the build board I had made. Erik
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