Erik W
-
Posts
427 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
Erik W reacted to dgbot in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
I just went through your log Erik. You are doing a great job on a difficult orohect,. Leaving the hull natural is showing off your skills niceky.
David B
-
Erik W got a reaction from Archi in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
I applied the red paint (Polly Scale acrylic Soo Line Red). I applied the first coat at full strength and then 2 to 4 coats with the paint diluted 30% with water.
Erik
-
Erik W reacted to Nirvana in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
Erik, that's the way I did the platforms. Looking real good.
-
Erik W got a reaction from Archi in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
A couple of quick shots of the two platforms. I wasn't comfortable gluing the edges of the boards. I didn't want to have glue smudges before I stain/poly. I used left over .020" planking material along the bottoms and glued the boards to them. This also reinforces the platforms to keep them flat when I stain/poly. A considerable amount of sanding was necessary to get the bow platform to snug down low enough in the hull.
Erik
-
Erik W got a reaction from Dimitris71 in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
A couple of quick shots of the two platforms. I wasn't comfortable gluing the edges of the boards. I didn't want to have glue smudges before I stain/poly. I used left over .020" planking material along the bottoms and glued the boards to them. This also reinforces the platforms to keep them flat when I stain/poly. A considerable amount of sanding was necessary to get the bow platform to snug down low enough in the hull.
Erik
-
Erik W got a reaction from GuntherMT in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
A couple of quick shots of the two platforms. I wasn't comfortable gluing the edges of the boards. I didn't want to have glue smudges before I stain/poly. I used left over .020" planking material along the bottoms and glued the boards to them. This also reinforces the platforms to keep them flat when I stain/poly. A considerable amount of sanding was necessary to get the bow platform to snug down low enough in the hull.
Erik
-
Erik W got a reaction from Canute in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
A couple of quick shots of the two platforms. I wasn't comfortable gluing the edges of the boards. I didn't want to have glue smudges before I stain/poly. I used left over .020" planking material along the bottoms and glued the boards to them. This also reinforces the platforms to keep them flat when I stain/poly. A considerable amount of sanding was necessary to get the bow platform to snug down low enough in the hull.
Erik
-
Erik W got a reaction from egkb in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
A couple of quick shots of the two platforms. I wasn't comfortable gluing the edges of the boards. I didn't want to have glue smudges before I stain/poly. I used left over .020" planking material along the bottoms and glued the boards to them. This also reinforces the platforms to keep them flat when I stain/poly. A considerable amount of sanding was necessary to get the bow platform to snug down low enough in the hull.
Erik
-
Erik W got a reaction from Mike Y in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
A couple of quick shots of the two platforms. I wasn't comfortable gluing the edges of the boards. I didn't want to have glue smudges before I stain/poly. I used left over .020" planking material along the bottoms and glued the boards to them. This also reinforces the platforms to keep them flat when I stain/poly. A considerable amount of sanding was necessary to get the bow platform to snug down low enough in the hull.
Erik
-
Erik W got a reaction from Ryland Craze in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
A couple of quick shots of the two platforms. I wasn't comfortable gluing the edges of the boards. I didn't want to have glue smudges before I stain/poly. I used left over .020" planking material along the bottoms and glued the boards to them. This also reinforces the platforms to keep them flat when I stain/poly. A considerable amount of sanding was necessary to get the bow platform to snug down low enough in the hull.
Erik
-
Erik W got a reaction from mtaylor in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
A couple of quick shots of the two platforms. I wasn't comfortable gluing the edges of the boards. I didn't want to have glue smudges before I stain/poly. I used left over .020" planking material along the bottoms and glued the boards to them. This also reinforces the platforms to keep them flat when I stain/poly. A considerable amount of sanding was necessary to get the bow platform to snug down low enough in the hull.
Erik
-
Erik W reacted to rafine in Cutter Cheerful 1806 by rafine - FINISHED
Thanks so much Erik. It seems most of your questions have now been answered by the new offerings from Crown. It appears that it will be easier to get what you need to do Cheerful..
Bob
-
Erik W got a reaction from GLakie in Cutter Cheerful 1806 by rafine - FINISHED
Bob,
Your planking is coming along great! I've been considering building the Cheerful as my second build, but have been wondering if it's feasible since I also don't own a table saw. It's nice to see that you're making it work. To follow up on Terry's question. Did you put together a custom order with Crown? Or did you just order the quantity of wood you needed by ordering the appropriate number of 10-pack packets? I'm trying to figure out how the cost of ordering the already cut strip-wood compares to ordering the block sizes and buying a Brynes table saw. I assume ordering the strip-wood is still less expensive than purchasing wood blocks and a table saw.
Erik
-
Erik W got a reaction from Jack12477 in Cutter Cheerful 1806 by rafine - FINISHED
Bob,
Your planking is coming along great! I've been considering building the Cheerful as my second build, but have been wondering if it's feasible since I also don't own a table saw. It's nice to see that you're making it work. To follow up on Terry's question. Did you put together a custom order with Crown? Or did you just order the quantity of wood you needed by ordering the appropriate number of 10-pack packets? I'm trying to figure out how the cost of ordering the already cut strip-wood compares to ordering the block sizes and buying a Brynes table saw. I assume ordering the strip-wood is still less expensive than purchasing wood blocks and a table saw.
Erik
-
Erik W reacted to rafine in Cutter Cheerful 1806 by rafine - FINISHED
Thanks so much Terry, Jason and the "likes.
Terry, I ordered strip sizes called out in Chuck's practicum and a couple of others that I thought I might need. The quantities were rough estimates and I expect to need more of some sizes as I go along. In addition to the strips, I also ordered some sheets of various thicknesses that seemed like they would be necessary or useful. I also had some sizes of strip and sheet on hand from previous projects. I'm afraid that I didn't save the order sheet to be able to tell you exactly what I got.
Bob
-
Erik W reacted to jonny.amy in 18th Century Longboat by jonny.amy - Model Shipways
Hi Chaps,
All quiet on the Western Front for the Longboat still, but I have a few bits and bobs to do on Sherboune so whilst I'm at it (and hopefully the puppy is asleep) I can break out the false keel and knock up a build frame for the model to ensure the frame are straight and true.
Cheers,
Jonny
-
Erik W got a reaction from Archi in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
I glued in the floorboards. I used pieces of .030" stryene as temporary spacers between the boards as I was gluing them in so they would be a uniform distance from one another. Also, now that I'm working on the interior, I'm using the build board I had made.
Erik
-
Erik W got a reaction from Archi in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
I glued on the friezes. Keeping the friezes from sticking to the wrong things while applying them was a bit tricky, but I manged to pull it off. I'm following Mike's (Stuntflyer) lead and keeping the painting to a minimum. I chose not to apply any white trim paint. As a newby, I want as much wood showing as possible!
Erik
-
Erik W got a reaction from Dimitris71 in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
I glued in the floorboards. I used pieces of .030" stryene as temporary spacers between the boards as I was gluing them in so they would be a uniform distance from one another. Also, now that I'm working on the interior, I'm using the build board I had made.
Erik
-
Erik W got a reaction from dvm27 in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
I glued in the floorboards. I used pieces of .030" stryene as temporary spacers between the boards as I was gluing them in so they would be a uniform distance from one another. Also, now that I'm working on the interior, I'm using the build board I had made.
Erik
-
Erik W got a reaction from tlevine in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
I glued in the floorboards. I used pieces of .030" stryene as temporary spacers between the boards as I was gluing them in so they would be a uniform distance from one another. Also, now that I'm working on the interior, I'm using the build board I had made.
Erik
-
Erik W got a reaction from Stuntflyer in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
I glued in the floorboards. I used pieces of .030" stryene as temporary spacers between the boards as I was gluing them in so they would be a uniform distance from one another. Also, now that I'm working on the interior, I'm using the build board I had made.
Erik
-
Erik W got a reaction from egkb in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
I glued in the floorboards. I used pieces of .030" stryene as temporary spacers between the boards as I was gluing them in so they would be a uniform distance from one another. Also, now that I'm working on the interior, I'm using the build board I had made.
Erik
-
Erik W got a reaction from MikeB4 in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
I glued in the floorboards. I used pieces of .030" stryene as temporary spacers between the boards as I was gluing them in so they would be a uniform distance from one another. Also, now that I'm working on the interior, I'm using the build board I had made.
Erik
-
Erik W reacted to BobF in 18th Century Longboat by BobF - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48 - Tri-Club
Here is a photo of the "iron work" for the boom, bowsprit, and mast. Rather than using brass flat stock to form the various pieces, I thought I'd try something a little different. Every fitting was made with slices of brass tubing. In each case the components were silver soldered together. I've never done any silver soldering, so this was a new experience for me, and I have to admit that I enjoyed it. It's quite possible that Stay-Brite would have worked just as well, but I wanted to try something new.
I really lucked out on this procedure. In every case except one, the inside diameters of the tubing were spot on for the boom, bowsprit and mast locations. The one exception was the top bracket on the mast, which had a little play at the location where it should be mounted. I solved that problem by applying some Stay-Brite solder to the inner surface of the ring, and reaming it out. It really didn't take much to snug up the bracket.
BobF
Our Emblem ®
