Mumin

Be brave and go forward!!!

A beginner's attempt at a wood kit.

Okay, let's delve into this subject a little further by examining a few Mystery Models and discussing what makes them something less than what they often claim or are thought to be.
 
Take a look at Mystery Model #1.

Hopefully, this one doesn't need too much explanation, since it is obviously a curio, something a kid would buy at the gift shop at Mystic Seaport. When the child outgrows it, it might be lucky enough to end up in a yard sale, but more likely it will get round-filed.
 
But not all cheap models are so overtly cheesy. How about Mystery Model #2?

This one looks nice -- from a distance. Once you get up close, you start seeing the chunky, over-sized fittings and less-than-stellar craftsmanship. This is clearly a decor piece. If you have a nautical theme in your office, and you don't want to shell out big bucks for a scale model, you might get something like this at the local home decorating store. Good luck selling it to someone else, though.
 
Mystery Model #3 is something we see a lot of around here.

It looks old. It looks antique. It must therefore be valuable, right? Wrong. This is a classic example of an older style of decor model, probably made in Spain. Columbus' ships were especially popular subjects. Some might have a plaque bearing the name "Fregatta" (fregatta is Spanish for 'frigate'). Unfortunately, unlike perhaps a matched pair of Holland & Holland shotguns, these models don't appreciate in value with age. They just get old, like shag carpet and avocado green appliances.
 
Now, to mix things up a bit, let's look at a model that supposedly represents a ship still in existence. First we have the model:

 
And now we have the real deal, the bark Star of India, the crown jewel of the San Diego Maritime Museum.

At first glance, the model does kind of look like the real ship. But once again, the devil is in the details. Look closely at the real ship. Now look at the model. Notice the difference in the cut of the sails and the way the sails are set on their yards. Notice how fine the rigging looks on the real ship and how chunky it looks on the model. Notice how the model doesn't even have the proper rig (it has square sails on the mizzen mast, the mast at the rear of the ship; the real Star does not). If you could see the model up close, you would see that the lack of fidelity to the original extends to the deck fittings as well. In short, the model is only a crude likeness of the real thing.
 
Now, here's the kicker. This Star of India model is available to purchase on the Internet for (wait for it) -- $999.99. I kid you not. And, sadly, it's kind of like a new car in the sense that once you drive it off the lot, its value plummets. "But wait," you might say, "I bought this model for $999.99, so it must be worth at least $999.99, right?" Um, no. In the first place, no one is going to pay $999.99 for your now-second-hand model when there are tons of brand-new ones available on the Internet. Second, I, at least, am certainly not going to pay that much for it, because I know where I can get a brand new model just like it for less than 1/10 of what you paid for yours (ouch)!
 
In the next installment, I'll cue you in on what model ship buyers really want in a model and how much they might be willing to pay for it. Until then!

I thought I would start this topic because as a model builder I know what I would like to see developed into a kit.   I am sure all of you have a short list.

 

On the flip side!!!

 

As a developer of commercial kits and projects,  I have no idea what-so-ever what other kit builders would like to see developed.   I am quite certain that this is true for the other kit developers.  Its just a leap of faith based on so many factors.   Including many who are respected sponsors of this site.   Both old and large companies or the newer, smaller Mom and Pop type operations.  We just dont know.  Its a big chance to take without a direct line of communication.

 

Bringing a new project to market is a serious investment in $$ and time.....our worst fears....nobody wants to build it or buy it when its launched.  So please....I urge you all to participate.  It would be a huge ....huge help.  No more Victories or Constitutions...its the last thing the hobby needs right????   Maybe not???  Please tell us.

 

BUT I would kindly ask that all MFG's including myself...and our sponsors...not participate in this discussion other than to say that you are watching and listening or if asked a direct question that warrants a response.  I know you will be listening, just as I am eager to hear from our customers.  This will alleviate any fear that we may be trying to steer the choices or monopolize the voice of all of you kit builders out there.  

 

SO...please do feel free to share your own short lists.  Or even just one.  Consider this your direct line to the kit developers out there.....I know I am listening.     The others would be at a loss if they dont.  Otherwise, we will just keep developing the same old stuff and hopefully one of them is what you want.

 

BUT here is what we need to know...or at least me as a developer.

 

- Name of ship .....or type

- Country of origin - date

- Material choices and what style...POB or POF or Solid hull ETC

- Price range you would expect to pay...whether realistic or not

-How long do you prefer a build to last from a kit.  Will you want to spend 6 months for a small kit or 6 years for that 100 gun French frigate from 1820?

-Advanced or beginner......something in-between? 

 

You get the picture....It would be interesting to see if we have any HMS Thunderer (74 gun) at 1/4" scale in POF built from Boxwood for under $200....If we hear a lot of that, then its probably time for me to look for a new job...LOL.  I learned as a young boy that if I didnt tell my parents what to get me for Christmas....I would end up with a lot of socks and underwear....LOL

 

 

and I will thank you on behalf of all of our fellow kit developers and MFGs.  This will make it so much easier for our businesses to grow and the hobby itself to grow.

 

Chuck

Hi!
 
On a fairly regular basis, we here at MSW receive requests from new members for help with identifying a ship model, such as something like one of these:
 

 
The request usually looks something like this:
 
 
Now, we are happy to help you with this request, but since we get asked so often, I thought it would be good to finally put some info on mystery models in one topic thread so that you can maybe find your answer before you post. Here are some basic things you should know:
 
1. Many, many models have been built over the years for the sole purpose of serving as decor or memorabilia. This would be a model purchased at, say, Sea World or Home Goods. These models are usually built to low standards in parts of the world where labor is relatively cheap. Once upon a time, southern Europe was a hot-spot for their manufacture. Nowadays most such models are coming out of Southeast Asia. These models usually have little, if any, historical or resale value. If you shelled out for one at an auction, you are probably stuck with it. Unfortunately, the vast majority of models we get asked about fall into this category.
 
2. A similar category of models could be classified as folk art. These are, as the name implies, locally built models that are an artistic representation of a ship rather than a scale model. Like the decor models, these also usually have little value other than sentimental value.
 
3. Then there are models that are actual attempts at scale model building, either scratch built or from a kit. Maybe your dad or grandpa built one. The value of these varies widely depending on the subject and the quality of the build, but the number of builders whose work is actually worth a large chunk of change is very, very small. The number of prospective buyers for such models is even smaller.
 
4. It is an extremely rare model that will turn out to have real value, either due to its artistic merit (built by someone who's a recognized master modeler) or historical value (e.g. a genuine prisoner-of-war bone model). Trust me, there are builders who are good (you would probably ooh and aah over their work), and then there are the builders whom those 'good' modelers look up to - the Stradivaris of our art, if you will. Those builders are few and far between, and grandpa probably wasn't one of them.
 
5. No matter what kind of model you have, the only people who can give you a true estimation of its worth (meaning, what a real person might actually pay) are those who make their living by doing such things, i.e. museum curators or owners of maritime art galleries. What you get from MSW should only be considered an informed opinion. If you do decide to go to a gallery, just let me prepare you well in advance for the shock you will likely experience upon hearing the appraised value of your model. In our hobby, 'valuable' and 'finely crafted' are not necessarily synonymous.
 
Nine times out of ten, mystery models shown at MSW are, sad to say, essentially worthless in terms of monetary value. Some of those models, to be sure, still have sentimental value for their owners, and that is not to be taken lightly. If you have a model like that, then do what you can to preserve it. If, on the other hand, you were hoping you found an overlooked treasure at a boot sale, well, you most likely didn't. Sorry.
 
Cheers!

Finally,
I finished!

Hello all,
As many of you know company C.Mamoli (producer of Mamoli model kits) completely burn down two years back.
I would like to inform you that this week after long time negotiations me and owners of C.Mamoli sign the contract for transfer license of all Mamoli model kits into my ownership.
As there are no parts which survived from the fire I have to start production from beginning and for this reason I cannot start production of all kits at the same time.
I plan to start production of MiniMamoli kits first which could be available in the Autumn and then I would like to add step by step also the kits from MV series. I also plan to redesign some MV kits into contemporary standards.
Best regards
Daniel Dusek

Here's a topic in the wood discussion that might help with wood in the UK...   http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6502-uk-timber-suppliers/  The first one listed (twigfolly.com) seems to have become a dead link.  However, the replacement site is:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/384-where-to-buy-wood/?p=399613
 
Cherry works well also as I'm using it on my Licorne build.   Others also use maple or pear.    But perhaps that link above will be a help.

It has been a few years since I have started a build log or worked on a model ship. There are many things I will need to re-learn. I noticed the ad banner for Marisstella Models on Model Ships World's home page and found this model of a Ragusian Carrack. I emailed the company, and Zoran Pavlocic' replied. The process went smoothly. I ordered and paid by PayPal, and 12 days later the mailman dropped off the package.
 

 
The model box was packaged inside a sturdy cardboard box.
All the material is top quality. I'm very impressed.
 

 

 

 
The sails have already been stitched.
 

 
Directions are in English
 
.
 
The building will start tonight, and I will have pictures tomorrow. It looks like I need to learn how to take pictures with my iPhone.

Who knows, maybe with all this type of attention to a very specific product HobbyZoneUsa might be a sponsor. With my new workshop I will certainly have some of the modules.

4th picture  a tool to turn ropes coils with a coil ejector

And the next small update here: one of boxes for fishing lines, several coils of fishing lines, the bottle for water, one more patch on the sail
 

 

 

 

 

WOW! Thank you Captain Al!

Next small update - knife of old man ... ... for the cutting sausage with cucumber slice ... ... to cut of tuna or...  to harpoon to shark  ...
 

 

 

 

 

Hi everyone!
In long time I wanted to try make the basket. Yesterday I have done it. The diametr of this basket 7.5-8 mm.
 

 

 

 

 

 

Hello All,
let me inform you about new products. I add into my assortment new Easy kits of WWII warships in 1/1200 scale. There are the kits for someone who want to relax from bigger projects . The models are very easy and fast to build.
 
Please visit our webpages for more info:
http://dusekshipkits.com/yamato
http://dusekshipkits.com/uss-missouri
http://dusekshipkits.com/bismarck
http://dusekshipkits.com/hms-hood
http://dusekshipkits.com/hms-prince-of-wales
http://dusekshipkits.com/hms-rodney
 
Best regards
Daniel Dusek

Here some new images . .   
On the terrace, cloudy weather, no flash . .   
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Inside home, with flash and artificial light . .
 
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Well I think this hobby has gotten the best of me, I mean who wakes up in the morning excited about making filler blocks? It's just not right  .
 Before I jumped into this madness I did manage to get some of the outside work done so maybe I'm not totally over the edge yet.
 For the blocks I cut some pieces out of a 1x6 board to size then shaped by cutting one edge on scroll, and shaped the rest on the belt/disc sander. Finished shaping by hand then glued in place. In the pictures only the starboard stern side has been slightly faired I am leaving the rest of the fairing until I finish with installing all the filler blocks. I'm thinking that all in all I probably spent about 4-5 hours making and installing them.
 

Stern filler block
 

Bow filler block
 

Bow
 

Stern
 
Have a good night

Many thanks to all of you for your encouraging messages . . 

This morning, Sunday, April 24th, after nine days, the situation is as follows:
- image 01 shows the solution just after its preparation on April 16th;
- image 02 as it is today, after I removed some steel wool and added some new vinegar,
- image 03 shows the second sample I made with the discarded steel wool from first sample and using apple vinegar (remember that the color of this vinegar is darker).
Something seems to be happened, the solution is not darker but is more cloudy, but it will be enough ?

In a few days I'll try to stain some wood . . may be it works.

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Tuesday, April 26, 2016  
After a wait state of more than a week since I prepared the vinegar/steel wool solution and having not seen any significant change in color, rather discouraged, I come to the conclusion that, before archiving this experience, it would be worth to make a couple of tests . . just to understand better this strange situation.  
So I took the two solutions I prepared, one with classic vinegar and the other with apple vinegar and, as instructed, I filtered them with a sieve for tea and let them decant for +/- one hour while I went to get the same timber used for the Viking ship deck.
 
The amazing thing is that after about an hour since I filtered the solution and thrown away the steel wool, the colour of the two solutions "suddenly" became much more dark . .
 
So I proceeded to brush the two solutions on the wood samples and, after a few minutes, just long enought to let the wood dry, I realized that the solution was properly working . . and very, very well !
 
Encouraged, I continued with the tests. Between the two different acid solutions there were not much differences, the one with apple vinegar gave a slightly lighter color after drying. However, both seemed too dark, although realistic, for my mind.
 
I then diluited a part of the solution (the one with the classic vinega) with water in proportion 1 to 1 and made another test: slightly lighter result but still too dark . .
 
Another dilution with water and another test. I repeated this process for 6-7 times always adding water.
 
At the end I found the concentration that was working for me: say about 1 part of the original solution, and 9-10 parts of water. With these proportions I got a color that I felt was fine for the type of timber used. So, at this point, I decided to do the "real" work on the ship deck. The result can be seen in the two images below. The images, especially the colours, do not give totally the idea of the result: with natural light the weathering is more evidently highlighted. 
 
Among other things, I noticed that the samples used in the tests over time tend to darken further, so what you see may change slightly tomorrow, presenting itself a few darker pattern. We'll see. I still have an additional option, if necessary: a second coat of the liquid, which will darken even more the wood, highlighting the gray tone. But I prefer to wait until tomorrow to decide . . just to see the stabilized result.
 
Finally, after this satisfactory result (at least for me), I want to thank all the people who participated at this discussion.
 
Greetings, Jack.
 
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the oven will be completed only with next upper deck

Sunday, April 17, 2016

While waiting for the weathering vinegar solution becomes ready . . . I think it will take some days, here are some elements of the superstructure completed and positioned (but not yet fixed) on the deck . .
The model begins to take its beautiful original form . .

Cheers, Jack.Aubrey.
 
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The first of the six sculptures is shown in this picture. They represented Consilium, that is Counsell; Cura, that is Care; Conamen, that is Industry; Vis which implied force; Virtus or Virtue; and Victoria, that is Victory. This description of the figures is taken from the text of "A True Description of His Majesty's Royall Ship" by Thomas Heywood written in 1638.
 

 
Two of the six sculptures are completed and mounted on the pedestals. Note the bottom of each sculpture forms the top of the pedestal.
 

 
A side view of the new sculptures.
 

 
 
More to follow.............

Wednesday, April 13, 2016  
It seems it has been months since I had inhalations of cyanoacrylate glue as now !!!
 
I feel a bit dazed but now the shields are almost finished, lacking only a coat of matt transparent paint to hide the small but inevitable glue smudges.
 
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I am pleased to report that I completed the driver gaff, upper yard, and lower yard last night!  I started with the driver gaff, as that one seemed like it would be the trickiest.  This time, I tapered the aft end first, using my drill.  When that was done, I started to taper the jaw-side by hand.  The result was an excellent fit:
 

 
Here's what it looked like when I was done gluing the jaws in place:
 

 
Next, I glued the bits that hold the rigging in place.  Interestingly, the plans do not show 2 sets of bits for the driver gaff.  Although the plans show a block rigged to the end of this gaff, there seems to be nothing to hold this block (and the rigging that attaches to the gaff itself) in place.  In these photos of the plans, you can see where the bits are depicted further up the length of the gaff, but not shown in the areas circled in red:
 

 

 
After studying some reference pictures that seemed to show a second set of bits at this location, I made the decision to add the bits.  This will help keep things more secure, as this gaff will sit at an angle, and I don't want the rigging to slide down the gaff.  The driver gaff differs from the gaff boom that I made earlier in that it has an eyelet attached to it for rigging.  Using my smallest drill bit, I carefully drilled this tiny hole in the jaws of the driver gaff:
 

 
Here is a photo of the jaws with the eyelet inserted:
 

 
After this gaff is painted, I will cut the end of the eyelet's pin down and bend it under the jaws, applying a small drop of CA glue to hold it in place.  Here is the completed driver gaff (the pin has been removed, as it will not be inserted and fixed in place until after the gaff has been painted):
 

 
Next, I began work on the upper yard.  This is the warped dowel that was supplied with the kit for this piece:
 

 
As I mentioned earlier, I was fortunate enough to have extra material left over from the walnut dowels I was using for the rest of the yards, so I decided to fashion the upper yard out of that instead.  After some careful sanding with the 4 mm dowel in the drill chuck, I was able to narrow it down to an overall diameter of 3 mm.  Then, I used a combination of shaping with a rough sanding stick and scraping with my X-Acto blade to taper the ends of the dowel, finally smoothing everything out with a piece of 400 grit sandpaper.  I was surprised to see how easily and quickly I could taper the ends of these dowels with this method, and I will likely use it on yards in the future.  Here is a photo of the upper yard, with the bits glued in place:
 

 
I repeated the process for the lower yard.  Here it is, after tapering:
 

 
And this is what it looked like after the bits were glued in place:
 

 
Finally, here are some photos of all the masts and yards together:
 

 

 

 

 
I am extremely happy with how everything turned out!  It required a lot of time and effort, but I think the finished products look great.  I had been nervous about shaping these dowels from the moment I received the kit, so having them done is a huge relief for me.  Now I'll be ready to start rigging as soon as I get the hull and deck finished.  I do not have any finishing/painting supplies, so I'm going to hold off on finishing the masts and yards for now.  
 
While I have enjoyed the sense of satisfaction that I've gotten from tapering these masts by hand, I think it would be far easier to use a miniature lathe for this process.  For future builds, I might invest in a Proxxon DB 250 (if the Admiral approves)!  
 
My sheetwood will be arriving today, so I'll be sure to update the log with a few pictures.  I can't wait to start spiling and planking!
 
So, that's where I am after a total of 45 hours of work on this project thus far.  Let me know what you think of my progress, guys!  

Saturday, April 2, 2016  
I finished to cover the deck with veneer, I think with pearwood or cherrywood, without facing any particular problem. I'm attaching some images of the work done.  
Anyway this deck finishing seems to me a little too "perfect" and "clean" to be realistic on a ship of this type. I do not think Vikings kept him like a pearwood "parquet". Now I need to imagine, think and implement a proper ageing process . . but it is a task I do not believe I can perform here in Pisa, for lack of suitable materials and equipments in my local workshop.
 
However, it is not a task to be performed now . . I can wait more.
 
Cheers, Jack.
 
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