Mumin

Great job! You definitely should send some photos to Daniel for his webpage.

Great job! You definitely should send some photos to Daniel for his webpage.

Great job! You definitely should send some photos to Daniel for his webpage.

Great job! You definitely should send some photos to Daniel for his webpage.

Great job! You definitely should send some photos to Daniel for his webpage.

FINISHED
 
I'll make better photo's for a gallery asap, but this is what it is....





Thanks for watching, thanks for the support, thanks Daniel Dusek, thanks to the Admiral for pretending she likes what I shown her during the build ..."look a 7 part rower seat!", "look! an oar!".
It was a joyful ride...I love this kit and I liked to do all the modifications. Daniel Dusek did a fantastic job...I gladly build another (but different)!
 
Thanks again guys...really, without this forum there wouldn't be a finished model!
 
More soon...but something else!
 
Robin 

The build was finally resumed, we had a number of modelling sessions during the last few weeks. Horray!
This time the job is simple - glue pre-cut veneer pieces to their places, fine fit and making sure they are properly clamped.
Daria likes it a lot! And whines that with this tempo it will take too long to finish the model - we need to glue more than one part per day!
 
Learning how to work with a scalpel with various angles. I know the holding is not correct here, but that will be corrected later:

 
Using masking tape to "clamp" the veneer where regular clamps could not be used. Works like a charm on this scale:

 
Transom all clamped: 
 
Result is ok, including the ebony parts:

 
Then onto the bulwarks. They are double-layered for whatever reason, but alignment is easy and done by a small pins that fit into tiny holes cut in all layers. Such a simple and elegant idea!

 
Found out the hard way that these clamps are not good enough - they clamp only in the middle, while veneer warps due to moisture.
So we experimented with other ways of clamping:

 
And ended up with this monster, but it seems to work:

 
She really enjoys it now - the difficulty level is just perfect, and learning some new techniques every time. I am touching the model less and less, she is doing more fine fitting herself (and said fitting is always required, a millimeter here and there).
 
 
 

I didn't start mine yet, just read the Russian forum

I didn't start mine yet, just read the Russian forum

Mumin, thanks for the note! It is really valuable!  

There are more "traps" in this build:
1) markings on B19 are not for beveling, they are guides for gluing L11. And together they form temporary guides for drilling.
2) Waterways should be glued "upside down" (the glue goes on the upper - marked side)
3) Pay close attention to the right and left parts, sometimes they are intermixed on the plates (for example bulwark D2L sits together with R planks and vice-versa).

It seems someone found out the hard way ...

There are more "traps" in this build:
1) markings on B19 are not for beveling, they are guides for gluing L11. And together they form temporary guides for drilling.
2) Waterways should be glued "upside down" (the glue goes on the upper - marked side)
3) Pay close attention to the right and left parts, sometimes they are intermixed on the plates (for example bulwark D2L sits together with R planks and vice-versa).

There are more "traps" in this build:
1) markings on B19 are not for beveling, they are guides for gluing L11. And together they form temporary guides for drilling.
2) Waterways should be glued "upside down" (the glue goes on the upper - marked side)
3) Pay close attention to the right and left parts, sometimes they are intermixed on the plates (for example bulwark D2L sits together with R planks and vice-versa).

There are more "traps" in this build:
1) markings on B19 are not for beveling, they are guides for gluing L11. And together they form temporary guides for drilling.
2) Waterways should be glued "upside down" (the glue goes on the upper - marked side)
3) Pay close attention to the right and left parts, sometimes they are intermixed on the plates (for example bulwark D2L sits together with R planks and vice-versa).

An update of sorts...early on in the build I was looking at Shipyards home site and found that they made sets of blocks and deadeyes.  They are laser cut and are just glued and stacked to finish assembly.  Seemed to me the small cost to purchase compared to the hours spent trying to accurately cut and assemble over 100 blocks and deadeyes ranging from 2-4mm would be worth it!
 
Unfortunately Shipyard no longer sells or ships to the US and Ages of Sail, their US retailer, does not carry the block kits.  So I started to search for alternatives, thinking I would just use regular wood model blocks.  Well after some searching I came across a site called Free Time and discovered that they do carry the Shipyard blocks and sell and ship to the US.  I chose Paypal as my payment method and was pleased with the customer support  and communication.
 
My parcel arrived today, registered mail,  and the product looks great.  I've attached the web address to Free Time here in case you want to take a look, (hope that's ok?)  So if you're looking for blocks for your next Shipyard build you might give Free Time a look, my experience with them was very positive.
http://www.freetime.co.ua/en/

When preparing parts for the next modelling session, I noticed a slight difference between our model and how it looks in the manual...

Apparently some parts are not permanent, but a temporary alignment jigs. They are not supposed to be permanently glued. D-oh!
I was such an idiot  Followed the manual blindly, like a Lego. Without thinking "what the heck is this part" and "wonder how it is used down the line".
So I did some brute demolition with pliers, cutters and dremel disk cutter. Daria was not involved, since it is a very delicate process - one incorrect move with pliers - and bulwarks will crack. Bulwarks end up with no support when you are supposed to glue finish planking to them.


 
Cleaned up hull, ready to move forward:

 
Phew! Will read manual more careful next time. Daria also confirmed that I am an idiot, and now reads the manual after me, to make sure I haven't missed anything. Guess it is a good thing in a long run

Whoops, fair enough!
We haven't yet resumed the build, (full schedule every weekend, affecting my build as well), but will definitely come back to it!

Daria, we can't wait for the update of the build

Daria, we can't wait for the update of the build

Daria, we can't wait for the update of the build

Not now. The second planking should be glued to the bulkheads only (as far as I remember the instruction manual suggests this) and then you will see if it needs filler.

In Shipyard models the first (of three) layer is just for the strengthening the hull. But fairing of the bulkheads shouldn't hurt...

Here is another update of my wood ship model - Brigantine Phoenix. I've added a few more deck items and finished the bow area. I've used almost no paint on this - it's all Minwax natural, ebony, dark walnut and golden oak.

The hull is now finished as well as the ships boat.  Next up are the cannon.