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Bill Morrison

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Posts posted by Bill Morrison

  1. 41 minutes ago, Avi said:

    I’d be happy to. I don’t think this build log is the right place for it. Is there a better thread, or some good place to upload them?

    Actually, I would also love to see those photos.  Unfortunately, there is some skepticism about the AoS book in some of the details. I also reenlisted in the Navy three times onboard USS Constitution. Unfortunately, I took few photos when I did so.

    Bill

  2. On 11/20/2021 at 3:13 PM, Avi said:

    That was a genius idea @mort stoll

     

    Look at the attached picture. I cut the tip of my template out at the top of the bulwark (ie bottom of the caprail). For the bottom, I cut the bottom loosely well below the gunports, and then cut out each gunport with a nice sharp xacto knife. I can just clip it to the hull, aligning the top of the cutout to the top of the hull, and just mark out the gunports. 

    F2C0FE09-0C31-4C43-83B8-F3738BDD8174.jpeg
     

    the bridle port is almost all the way at the bows, and so distorted by the curve, so I didn’t cut that one out. But it should be easy to extend the line just for that one port. 

    I used the same technique on an old (now defunct) Aeropiccola kit of the HMS Victory. It worked well. One advantage to her small scale was that I used Plastruct square tubing to square the gunports. One part of ship modeling I have always enjoyed is to come up with out-of-the-box ideas to make a better model!

    Bill

  3. On 11/6/2021 at 1:30 PM, Avi said:

    Dentist? Funny, every time I use the dremel I think of my dentist! 😂 

    Avi,

    My wife and I now watch a few television shows about the behind-the-scenes care of animals at zoos. Whenever they show veterinary dental work on the animals., they use Dremel tools, including cutting and sanding disks, I immediately think of my dentist as well!

    Bill

  4. On 12/19/2021 at 12:30 AM, Chief Williams said:

    I've had another good look at the drawings, and I didn't like the sharp curve that the planks would have to make as the approached the bow, so I decided to put a bass wood filler between the first frame (3), and the bow cheek (2)

     

    516195322_Portsidebowcheekrough.jpg.2aa641db1e35bff8dac45c083213b794.jpg  

     

     

    I love your solution with the bass wood fillers. I have the Constructo HMS Pandora that has the same issue; as designed, the kit's bow and forecastle is much too sharp. A bow filler could be the solution. 

     

    Bill Morrison

  5. I am concerned that the guns at museums do not resemble guns at sea.  A sailor's life is spent cleaning, painting, maintenance, etc. and guns were well painted with black paint (at least from the late 18th century).  As a retired Senior Chief Petty Officer, I would never allow sailors under me to allow any kind of patina anywhere on my ship. However, I am not sure about the period in question. Can someone please enlighten me?

    Bill

  6. One of the things I do to help reduce the costs of ship models is to comparative shop. For example, I used to shop with Model Expo, but as their offerings declined, as their costs rose, and the quality of their service declined, I switched to 1) Model Dromedary, 2) www.agesofsail.com, and 3) from various European sources.  I found that I could find better prices and shipping costs by varying my sources.

     

    Bill

  7. Tom,

     

    I am formerly a teacher and professor of history, so I typically go with where the research leads. However, I also know that research has limitations, and I haven't seen enough to convince me that the new colors are correct. For example, the Victory is a notoriously long-lived ship that has undergone many alterations, even before Trafalgar.  I haven't seen enough evidence to indicate that this "new" color was the color scheme at Trafalgar.  However, every period or near period painting shows her in distinctive yellow ochre stripes. So, I will stick to the traditional yellow ochre on my model.

     

    Your daughter seems most astute!

     

    Bill

  8. Yes, I know Marc, and I have built this model several times, making the already mentioned alterations. He and I have disagreed occasionally on some finer points. Disagreement, however, does not imply disrespect. His work is a thing of beauty. But, the deck furniture has always looked appropriate to me, although I have added a galley stove pipe per Mondfeld. The crux of my question is simply "In what specific way is the Heller SR deck furniture 'wrong' ?"

     

    Bill Morrison

  9. Ian,

     

    I agree with everything you've said. But, I corrected the masts and spars issues by using Mondfeld as a guide.  I corrected the smooth inboard side of the bulwarks by using plastic strips.  I also planked over the entire decks with wood. I put in a ladder to the poop deck. To me, these corrections were easy. My problem is that so many fellow modelers kept referring to missing deck furniture. It's interesting that the furniture found on other models of ships-of-the-line show the exact deck furniture of Heller's SR. What is missing, if anything?

     

    Bill

  10. Ever since I discovered this kit (early 1970s) I have heard many people complain that it was inaccurate, with little to no deck furniture, the masts and yards were not proportioned correctly, and the hull was not shaped right, especially below the waterline. I have addressed the masts and spars by using the tables found in Mondfeld's Period Ship Models.  I raised the waterline to the lowest wale, correcting that issue. I believe that the width of the hull is okay given the waterline adjustment.  But, no one has ever provided any information about the deck furniture.

     

    Indeed, when they knowingly make the statement that the furniture is wrong, I ask about the accuracy issues. I have been met with a stony and unknowledgeable glassy-eyed look. The question remains; What exactly are the problems with the deck layout of this model?

    Bill Morrison

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