Dee_Dee

Then I wrap the few inches I let out keeping it tight as I go. Repeating this process till it is finished. Using Fray Check keeps everything in place but still very flexible. If you don't touch it it dries clear. If you rub your fingers across it as it is drying it gives the line a weathered look.  This process actually works pretty well & doesn't take very long.

you know Jesse, sailors didn't have serving machines and they managed.
I noticed the clothes pin trick in an earlier pic and thought it was I a very inventive way around the problem of the hanging thread.
 
I remember my dad talking about sitting on shift, while in the USN, and splicing lines. It was all done by hand and gave him something to do to pass the time.
 
Thanks for the illustration. As logs are for future builders to learn, it is nice to see every different method or way of doing a job shown. It's equally important for newer builders to see that beautiful details don't require a lot of expensive tools, just a bit of ingenuity.

Thanks Kester, that's next on the list of To Do's.. I had a quick looksie around to see if I could determine what kind of Latch Arrangements would be appropriate for the time period.. was thinking of a type of Dead Bolt on one door going into the bottom 'step' with a latch type thing on the other door (ie operated by the handle) they will of course only be a suggestion of Latch/Dead Bolt due to scale restraints.
Does any of the above sound 'right' to ye folks out there.. am pretty sure Yale Locks wouldn't have been around back then    (just Googled it and they weren't too far away mind you, being founded in 1868 ish    )
Any suggestions will as always be much appreciated.. just remember the entertainment I had with 4 hinges    so nuttin too complex and involving intricate microscopic work.. think of my nerves and total lack of ability   particularly the Total Lack Of Ability... did I mention the Lack of Ability? 
 
Cheers Folks
 
Eamonn
 
Thanks for the Likes too folks, tis deadly to get them as they give a nice warn fuzzy feeling that the efforts are going in the right direction.

What is so great about that technique is the fact that it is REAL.
 
I was watching boat building video's on youtube and that was how they fit the shapes on a full sized clinkered boat build. It's just one of those things that are just SO obvious, once you seen it done...
 
Nicely done on the seating fit Bob and as always, nice photo illustration.

Thank you Alfons.  My next build is an AVS, the build log has been opened, but nothing is actually started yet.
 
Went out during lunch and snapped a few pictures, most of them were terribly out of focus and poorly framed because the sunlight makes it impossible to actually see the viewscreen on my old camera, but a few were ok, so I'll put them up as the final photos of the Carmen here.  Unfortunately my stucco house backdrop makes the running rigging all but disappear in the photos.  Oh well.
 

Nice rework.  When I started drafting I was told “Buy the best eraser you can. Because you will erase twice as many lines as you draw.”  Now I seem to redo twice as much as I build.
 
Bob

Hi Dee Dee,
 
Sorry about the rework.  It is satisfying when it's finished.  The wet well is certainly water tight.  I love your work.

You seem to have cornered the Epoxy Market there Dee_Dee   I was wondering why the price of the stuff had suddenly shot up.. 
 
Looking the Absolute Business by the way!
 
Stay Well
 
Eamonn

Went back and looked at your planking on the 3rd page, as I had skipped through that fairly fast when I first started following this log (there are just so many logs and so little time!).  Wow, what an amazingly patient and analytical approach, but it turned out great!  I'll have to re-read this a few times when I tackle my next project's planking.

That's a strong hull now! 

Hi Matti,
 
It's been a while since I posted, but I've been stopping by frequently to catch up on your Vasa.  I love it!  
 
Dee Dee  

I have worked in both mediums:
MS Pilot Schooner "Katy" (solid hull over planked) MS Armed Virginia Sloop (POB) Topsail Schooner "Eagle" (scratch solid hull over planked) Brigantine "Newsboy" (MS solid hull over planked) Armed Brig "Fair American" (MS POB) I find solid hull construction to be more accurate that many POB kits.  Additionally, I find I can complete a solid hull ready in ~ one half the time on building a POB kit.  I should be noted that most of the time in wooden sailing ship modeling is spent on deck furnature, outfit fittings, masts, and rigging.
 
Regards,
Pete

Again, the obvious is I should have done more prep work back on page one:  Drop the cockpit floor height, build up the mast step, the bow stem, framing for the wells and more.   Oh well, but I'm learning and having fun. 
 
It was a puzzle, trying to figure out what to do first, but slowly I figured it out.
 
After removing the balance of the false deck, I removed most of the 6th bulkhead and the keel between the 6th and 7th bulkhead.  Added outer framing on all four sides.  The mast thwart is 12" wide, that's too wide, so I added an extra 6" of framing and built out the foredeck.  Since the hull is single planked and a few spots are a bit thin, I add some epoxy for strength (OK, I added A LOT of epoxy.....)

 

 
Before the side framing was glued, I cut a notch for the thwart.  

 
This first section of planks will be cut in half, at the thwart and permanently glued, still need to drill a hole for the mast.  Three short planks will be cut and fitted.  In post #2, in the 6th photo, you can see these short planks.  

 
Next up, i made 20 floor planks, only needed 14.  I'll use 3 planks when I cut down the center plank and the other 3 will be for 'just in case', as in just in case if I / when I loose one or two.............
Next, need to make the planks that will fit on each side. 

 
These side pieces were an adventure to make!  These will be permanently glued, which isn't quite right, but that's the way it is.........

 
Finally, all of the floor boards in place! It's a real tight fit and they easily pop out, so will need to reduce each very, very slightly.  
 
 
Before I glue in the end pieces or do anything else, I first need to decide if I should do some painting first. 
This took a month to figure out and make all the pieces, but I'm happy with it and again, I learned a lot!
 
 
As always, thanks for stopping by, I appreciate your interest in my build.  
 
Dee Dee

Again, the obvious is I should have done more prep work back on page one:  Drop the cockpit floor height, build up the mast step, the bow stem, framing for the wells and more.   Oh well, but I'm learning and having fun. 
 
It was a puzzle, trying to figure out what to do first, but slowly I figured it out.
 
After removing the balance of the false deck, I removed most of the 6th bulkhead and the keel between the 6th and 7th bulkhead.  Added outer framing on all four sides.  The mast thwart is 12" wide, that's too wide, so I added an extra 6" of framing and built out the foredeck.  Since the hull is single planked and a few spots are a bit thin, I add some epoxy for strength (OK, I added A LOT of epoxy.....)

 

 
Before the side framing was glued, I cut a notch for the thwart.  

 
This first section of planks will be cut in half, at the thwart and permanently glued, still need to drill a hole for the mast.  Three short planks will be cut and fitted.  In post #2, in the 6th photo, you can see these short planks.  

 
Next up, i made 20 floor planks, only needed 14.  I'll use 3 planks when I cut down the center plank and the other 3 will be for 'just in case', as in just in case if I / when I loose one or two.............
Next, need to make the planks that will fit on each side. 

 
These side pieces were an adventure to make!  These will be permanently glued, which isn't quite right, but that's the way it is.........

 
Finally, all of the floor boards in place! It's a real tight fit and they easily pop out, so will need to reduce each very, very slightly.  
 
 
Before I glue in the end pieces or do anything else, I first need to decide if I should do some painting first. 
This took a month to figure out and make all the pieces, but I'm happy with it and again, I learned a lot!
 
 
As always, thanks for stopping by, I appreciate your interest in my build.  
 
Dee Dee

Bob,
Thanks for posting the photo of your template for the cockpit seats.  I need to make a similar part on my current build and finally!!!! I know how to do it! 
I have the 18th century longboat kit on the shelf and your build log is a fountain of information! 
Thanks for sharing your build!
Dee Dee    

Again, the obvious is I should have done more prep work back on page one:  Drop the cockpit floor height, build up the mast step, the bow stem, framing for the wells and more.   Oh well, but I'm learning and having fun. 
 
It was a puzzle, trying to figure out what to do first, but slowly I figured it out.
 
After removing the balance of the false deck, I removed most of the 6th bulkhead and the keel between the 6th and 7th bulkhead.  Added outer framing on all four sides.  The mast thwart is 12" wide, that's too wide, so I added an extra 6" of framing and built out the foredeck.  Since the hull is single planked and a few spots are a bit thin, I add some epoxy for strength (OK, I added A LOT of epoxy.....)

 

 
Before the side framing was glued, I cut a notch for the thwart.  

 
This first section of planks will be cut in half, at the thwart and permanently glued, still need to drill a hole for the mast.  Three short planks will be cut and fitted.  In post #2, in the 6th photo, you can see these short planks.  

 
Next up, i made 20 floor planks, only needed 14.  I'll use 3 planks when I cut down the center plank and the other 3 will be for 'just in case', as in just in case if I / when I loose one or two.............
Next, need to make the planks that will fit on each side. 

 
These side pieces were an adventure to make!  These will be permanently glued, which isn't quite right, but that's the way it is.........

 
Finally, all of the floor boards in place! It's a real tight fit and they easily pop out, so will need to reduce each very, very slightly.  
 
 
Before I glue in the end pieces or do anything else, I first need to decide if I should do some painting first. 
This took a month to figure out and make all the pieces, but I'm happy with it and again, I learned a lot!
 
 
As always, thanks for stopping by, I appreciate your interest in my build.  
 
Dee Dee

Again, the obvious is I should have done more prep work back on page one:  Drop the cockpit floor height, build up the mast step, the bow stem, framing for the wells and more.   Oh well, but I'm learning and having fun. 
 
It was a puzzle, trying to figure out what to do first, but slowly I figured it out.
 
After removing the balance of the false deck, I removed most of the 6th bulkhead and the keel between the 6th and 7th bulkhead.  Added outer framing on all four sides.  The mast thwart is 12" wide, that's too wide, so I added an extra 6" of framing and built out the foredeck.  Since the hull is single planked and a few spots are a bit thin, I add some epoxy for strength (OK, I added A LOT of epoxy.....)

 

 
Before the side framing was glued, I cut a notch for the thwart.  

 
This first section of planks will be cut in half, at the thwart and permanently glued, still need to drill a hole for the mast.  Three short planks will be cut and fitted.  In post #2, in the 6th photo, you can see these short planks.  

 
Next up, i made 20 floor planks, only needed 14.  I'll use 3 planks when I cut down the center plank and the other 3 will be for 'just in case', as in just in case if I / when I loose one or two.............
Next, need to make the planks that will fit on each side. 

 
These side pieces were an adventure to make!  These will be permanently glued, which isn't quite right, but that's the way it is.........

 
Finally, all of the floor boards in place! It's a real tight fit and they easily pop out, so will need to reduce each very, very slightly.  
 
 
Before I glue in the end pieces or do anything else, I first need to decide if I should do some painting first. 
This took a month to figure out and make all the pieces, but I'm happy with it and again, I learned a lot!
 
 
As always, thanks for stopping by, I appreciate your interest in my build.  
 
Dee Dee

Jpett, Thanks for stopping by
 
Thanks for stopping by Adam. I do like the walnut, but the hull will be painted.  What I really like about the walnut are the nice sharp edges. 
 
Thanks Cap'n'Bob.  I really appreciate your taking an interest in my build.
 
John, I use the fan method, but take it a step farther.  After I mark off the frame, I calculate the with of each plank at each bulkhead, bow and transom.  In post #39 I posted a copy of my measurement plan.  This way, I could custom fit each plank to make sure I stay on target with the tick marks.  With 18 planks, if each plank was a quarter millimeter (0.25mm) too wide, that adds up to 4.5mm's or one plank.  In post #45, is a photo of plank #17, shaped and edge bending.   
 
And THANK YOU to all who hit the like button
 
Dee Dee
 
Edited to correct 'Adam' to 'John'

I enjoy planking, it's sort of like a jigsaw puzzle with all rectangular pieces and there's no picture. 
 
Here's the puzzle:  I laid out 6 strips of art tape, (same width as the planks) on a piece of glass and fixed them with the strip of gold tape.  The tapes were transferred to the hull (parallel to the keel) and each strip of tape was then laid flat following the contour of the hull.   The views from the bow and stern show the puzzle the best.    

 

 

 
 
 
Just a few more planks to go. 
Here's a quick review on how I made each plank:
Each plank was steamed, edge bent, then shaped to size.  The measurements at each bulkhead was taken, then divided by the number of planks to go.  My goal was +/-0.03mm at each bulkhead, bow and transom. I averaged 45 - 60 minutes shaping each plank, it's a process that just cannot be rushed.    
 
This target measurement here was 3.58, I got 3.57.  The amount of pressure applied on the calipers will change the reading, so I just tried to be consistent with my process of measuring. 

 
This is the port side #17 plank, it just needs to have the top edge beveled and it will be ready to glue. 

 
Port plank #17 glued and partially sanded.

 
Three more planks to go!
 
There's a slight ridge on the port side, on planks 14 and 15.  It's not visible on the bare wood, but I'm thinking it might become visible after the hull is painted.  So I'm going to follow Cap'n'Bob's suggestion, add some two part epoxy on the inside of the hull, just in case the wood gets a bit thin while sanding that ridge.
 
The kit wood for the cockpit flooring is about 12" wide, way out of scale.  So I'm thinking of going with some maple, 3" wide  and staining it to the gray weathered color.   But before that, the mast thwart is too wide, so I need to extend the foredeck a few inches.  It's really kewl to have an actual boat to refer to.  
 
Thanks for stopping by, suggestions are always welcomed!  
 
Dee Dee

Due to the hull shape, a few planks had sever edge bending.  I was doing well, until 'SNAP!' and I broke another plank.  It wasn't going to get better and didn't want to chance breaking any more.  To relieve the edge bending for the remaining planks, the next two planks were undersized from the 6th bulkhead to the transom.  So instead of 4.42mm, the planks tapered down to 3.0mm. 
 
This photo sort of shows how the last two planks were undersized aft of the 6th bulkhead (in the middle with the cracked plank) to ease the edge bending. 
 

I've been traveling for work again and have got a bit behind in posting updates on my progress.  So I'll a couple of updates to keep things straight.
 
 
In hindsight, I'm thinking I should have added balsa fillers on the bow and stern to increase gluing surface.  I dripped in a few layers of PVA glue inside of the bow and transom.  In Floyd's J-Boat Endeavor build log, Cap'n'Bob suggested epoxy the inside of the hull to stiffen the planks, I think this might be a better plan.        
 
I'm using the 'tic / fan' method to plank my coquillier.  I was a bit lax on the first three planks and I paid the price on the eighth plank.  Edge bending was an issue at the 6th bulkhead and the plank snapped on the port side.  To ease the edge bending, the next two planks were undersized aft of the 6th bulkhead.  
 
Here's my fan / tic planking plan.  Need to redo measurements for the remaining 6 planks.  Then, a new plan with 4, 2 and 1 plank.  Again, I was a bit lax with measuring on the first three planks, but after that my goal was <0.05mm variance.  (A sheet of paper = 0.1mm).  
 
  

Again, the obvious is I should have done more prep work back on page one:  Drop the cockpit floor height, build up the mast step, the bow stem, framing for the wells and more.   Oh well, but I'm learning and having fun. 
 
It was a puzzle, trying to figure out what to do first, but slowly I figured it out.
 
After removing the balance of the false deck, I removed most of the 6th bulkhead and the keel between the 6th and 7th bulkhead.  Added outer framing on all four sides.  The mast thwart is 12" wide, that's too wide, so I added an extra 6" of framing and built out the foredeck.  Since the hull is single planked and a few spots are a bit thin, I add some epoxy for strength (OK, I added A LOT of epoxy.....)

 

 
Before the side framing was glued, I cut a notch for the thwart.  

 
This first section of planks will be cut in half, at the thwart and permanently glued, still need to drill a hole for the mast.  Three short planks will be cut and fitted.  In post #2, in the 6th photo, you can see these short planks.  

 
Next up, i made 20 floor planks, only needed 14.  I'll use 3 planks when I cut down the center plank and the other 3 will be for 'just in case', as in just in case if I / when I loose one or two.............
Next, need to make the planks that will fit on each side. 

 
These side pieces were an adventure to make!  These will be permanently glued, which isn't quite right, but that's the way it is.........

 
Finally, all of the floor boards in place! It's a real tight fit and they easily pop out, so will need to reduce each very, very slightly.  
 
 
Before I glue in the end pieces or do anything else, I first need to decide if I should do some painting first. 
This took a month to figure out and make all the pieces, but I'm happy with it and again, I learned a lot!
 
 
As always, thanks for stopping by, I appreciate your interest in my build.  
 
Dee Dee

Again, the obvious is I should have done more prep work back on page one:  Drop the cockpit floor height, build up the mast step, the bow stem, framing for the wells and more.   Oh well, but I'm learning and having fun. 
 
It was a puzzle, trying to figure out what to do first, but slowly I figured it out.
 
After removing the balance of the false deck, I removed most of the 6th bulkhead and the keel between the 6th and 7th bulkhead.  Added outer framing on all four sides.  The mast thwart is 12" wide, that's too wide, so I added an extra 6" of framing and built out the foredeck.  Since the hull is single planked and a few spots are a bit thin, I add some epoxy for strength (OK, I added A LOT of epoxy.....)

 

 
Before the side framing was glued, I cut a notch for the thwart.  

 
This first section of planks will be cut in half, at the thwart and permanently glued, still need to drill a hole for the mast.  Three short planks will be cut and fitted.  In post #2, in the 6th photo, you can see these short planks.  

 
Next up, i made 20 floor planks, only needed 14.  I'll use 3 planks when I cut down the center plank and the other 3 will be for 'just in case', as in just in case if I / when I loose one or two.............
Next, need to make the planks that will fit on each side. 

 
These side pieces were an adventure to make!  These will be permanently glued, which isn't quite right, but that's the way it is.........

 
Finally, all of the floor boards in place! It's a real tight fit and they easily pop out, so will need to reduce each very, very slightly.  
 
 
Before I glue in the end pieces or do anything else, I first need to decide if I should do some painting first. 
This took a month to figure out and make all the pieces, but I'm happy with it and again, I learned a lot!
 
 
As always, thanks for stopping by, I appreciate your interest in my build.  
 
Dee Dee

Jpett, Thanks for stopping by
 
Thanks for stopping by Adam. I do like the walnut, but the hull will be painted.  What I really like about the walnut are the nice sharp edges. 
 
Thanks Cap'n'Bob.  I really appreciate your taking an interest in my build.
 
John, I use the fan method, but take it a step farther.  After I mark off the frame, I calculate the with of each plank at each bulkhead, bow and transom.  In post #39 I posted a copy of my measurement plan.  This way, I could custom fit each plank to make sure I stay on target with the tick marks.  With 18 planks, if each plank was a quarter millimeter (0.25mm) too wide, that adds up to 4.5mm's or one plank.  In post #45, is a photo of plank #17, shaped and edge bending.   
 
And THANK YOU to all who hit the like button
 
Dee Dee
 
Edited to correct 'Adam' to 'John'

Hans, Thanks for stopping by and the kind words.  I really like your Batavia!  FWIW, Batavia is also the name of a suburb, west of Chicago in the Fox River Valley.  Now I know where the name Batavia came from! 
 
Bob,  This hull was a challenge to plank, but I learned a lot!  Umm, as for those oysters.....  Bob, I like your idea of sesame seeds, sunflower seeds also look good.  But not sure if seeds will be stable over the years, so possibly bits of Fimo clay.  What ever I use, I'll add a layer of glue and roll it in crushed shells for texture and color. But first, I need to make those crates.
 
 
 
As for the bow!  I liked the way the stern stem turned out and decided to do the same with the bow stem. 
 
To get the planks to line up neat and tidy, the bow stem was removed 

 
And then I added a new walnut bow stem. It looks good!  But the lines on the bow stem are not parallel and it's a bit curved, so I need to make some corrections.  It's an easy fix, but the obvious is this should have been done on page one. 

 
I've spent weeks trying to figure out how I'm going to do the cockpit decking and it's looking good.  Have a few more pieces to add and shape and then I'll add some photos. 
 
 
As always, thanks for stopping by.
 
 
Dee Dee