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CDW

NRG Member
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About CDW

  • Birthday 04/16/1954

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Tampa, Florida
  • Interests
    Scale model building of all types; American and world history; science; religious studies; flight; grandchildren; travel; antique car and motorcycle restoration

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  1. Coming in April from Model factory Hiro. Taking pre-orders now. Matra - LeMans 1973
  2. I love it. Did you see the Matra MFH is coming out with in April?
  3. The windshield got some overspray on it. As a result, I used 8000 and 12000 grit micro mesh followed by Tamiya finishing compound then wax. All that was buffed out with my rotary tool.
  4. Thanks for the kind words and for hitting the like button. Yellow is one of the more challenging colors to apply, and this difficulty only increases with a large model like this one. The difficulty comes in achieving the same shade of color throughout the entire model.
  5. I’m not quite there yet but inching closer to a finish. Another dry fit to check for any fit issues. The roof tops won’t be displayed in a closed position as seen here. Instead will leave open for an unobstructed interior view.
  6. Rob, I don't know if this will help you at this stage of your build, but maybe take a look at how this modeler approached the fit of the 1:12 MFH Cobra Coupe body to the frame and how he dealt with the hinged hood portion. The particular area that looked interesting to me is found between 43:00 and 50:00 minutes of the video.
  7. I agree 100% about the lacquer clear coats. Much more forgiving and user-friendly.
  8. I have more to say, more to report about this paintjob, this 2k clear coat stuff. 2k clear coat paint is a relatively new concept to me, although it's actually been around for a long time. I just never used it much until this big 1:12 scale model. I used it successfully on some smaller scale models a couple of times with little to no issues except for dealing with the horrible fumes of the stuff. This time, I got trash in my paint (my fault, not the paint) which spoiled the finish. If this was just going to be a shelf model, I might have left well-enough alone and never tried to polish out the trash. Polishing out trash particles is not an uncommon thing to happen and is easily dealt with lacquers or enamels, but this 2k stuff is a different animal. I start with 3200 grit polishing cloth, then follow up with 4000, 6000, 8000, and last 12000. If needed, compounds come next. This works fine with lacquer, to a slightly lesser degree works with enamel. With 2k, it sucks. You just cannot get that shine back once you start trying to polish it out. Moral of the story: 2k requires near perfection when it goes down. After having polished out the trash, I am going to be forced to recoat everything I polished with another coat of 2k clear. With lacquer, this would not be a big deal, with 2k it's a royal pain in the rear. Be forewarned.
  9. Agreed! I just ordered this one: SBLim-2 I will let you know when it arrives.
  10. No, I have only started one (a brand I do not recall) and it was a disaster. I will look it up and try a WAK skill 2 kit as a first try. Thanks!
  11. All my yellow body panels are now painted, and all have been given a 2k clear coat. Somehow, I managed to get a lot of crap in my clear coat. Will give it a couple more days to cure out before I start wet sanding and polishing out all the panels. That 2k clear is some really nasty stuff to paint due to the overspray fumes. A full-face filter mask is mandatory for this stuff. Don't try painting without it! I also recommend putting a coat of wax on your mask face lenses. The fumes from the 2k paint will fog the clear face shield and the wax will protect the clear shield.
  12. By now, I have collected a large number of Halinski kits and have yet to try a start on a single one. Every time I see you post another build thread, it tempts me so much.
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