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CDW

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Everything posted by CDW

  1. I painted over the aluminum but I should have put down white primer first, just to keep a consistent shade of orange. It's a tad off, darker, but nothing that worries me over it.
  2. If I had left the center panel out, it might have fit. Too much going on around the engine for the center panel to fit. Will probably fabricate a little scaffold for the rear assembly to rest upon off the ground.
  3. Inching closer to the finish. You really have to work to get the tires over the wheel rims. Very tight fit. On the front and rear tires, there is only one way the rims will fit. Trial and error. Will try the tire decals I bought, but they look like they may be a little too large. We'll soon see.
  4. With the front body assembly and doors attached to the chassis, the next steps will be to mask off and paint orange the area of the silver chassis below the doors. The rear body assembly will be left off to display the engine, transaxle, and rear suspension. It's important to note that if you wish to attach the rear body assembly to the chassis for display, you must leave off most of the engine plumbing as the body assembly will not fit with all the plumbing attached.
  5. Mike I painted the orange directly over the white plastic of the kit without any primer. However, the undersides of the body panels must be painted flat black. In my kit, the white plastic is rather translucent and I am concerned the flat black will alter the shade of the orange to a darker color. Because of this, I will first paint the underside with a white primer, then paint flat black on top of the white primer. This should cancel out the negative effects the black might cause to the orange. A coat of white primer before the orange would be beneficial as you could skip the concerns about the black undersides.
  6. Another favorite past time of mine involves my family heritage, collecting and digitizing old family photos and so forth. Recently I came across a program that animates photos and I've been running so old family photos through that program then sharing them with my family. These are before and after photos of my great-great grandmother that give a good idea of what this program can do. My g-g grandmother was born in 1838 and the original photo was taken somewhere around 1857 or 1858 as she was pregnant with my great grandfather. The way the program enhances the photo is rather stunning I think.
  7. After spraying this morning then a few hours in the dehumidifier, Bingo! We got orange. Is it McLaren Orange? I don't know, but it's as close as I am going to get to it as this is the girl I brung to the dance. 🙂
  8. I'll be painting some orange before you know it.
  9. It's been a fun kit to build so far. There are a few fit issues where it seems the engineers maybe didn't thoroughly vet the prototype construction and make adjustments before production, but nothing that is too glaring. The instructions actually warn the builder that there are a few areas where certain parts you might want to leave out of the construction sequence for ease of assembly. Particularly the area of the engine compartment where the headers take up a lot of space. Just to see how bad it was, I opted to attempt it all but had to abort a couple of small things. An onlooker would never spot it most likely, but it's there (or not there as the case may be).
  10. Added roll bar, oil coolers, front suspension, and dash/steering wheel components. Started painting the various red/blue anodized connections to various fuel and oil lines.
  11. I'll have to do some more experimenting to give you a definitive answer to that question. I have read others say three hours thoroughly cures acrylics but I have to believe it will depend somewhat on what you have used to reduce the paint. I like to use lacquer thinner with Tamiya paint and that's going to behave a whole lot different than an acrylic thinned with a water based thinner.
  12. Yes! But hands-free and much better controlled temperature and air all around the parts. It's like a miniature convection oven, low temperature and will not harm plastic unless you set the temperature too high.
  13. I should note, this unit is particularly well suited for model cars and other similar sized models, but large ship hulls would not fit inside, obviously.
  14. After doing some research, I learned about using a food dehydrator to help reduce the drying time of painted model parts...drastically reduce the time. As I am sure most of you know, various paints can take quite a long time to dry, certain enamels taking two weeks or more to cure. Acrylics can take quite a while. Well, the food dehydrator can cut that complete cure time on enamels from 2 weeks to over night. Acrylics down from a full day or more to 3 hours, fully cured. The dehydrator I bought is a 9 shelf unit with a front opening sliding door, from Amazon. The shelves are removable so you have plenty of space for parts. It has a thermostat control for heat as well as a timer. As pictured, I have some acrylic painted parts drying now that I set on 105 degrees F. With this unit, I will return to using enamels from time to time. I avoided them in the past because of the extreme drying times. By the way, the painted parts now in the dehydrator are for the McLaren. 🙂
  15. While she's not quite 16 yet, a few more months to go (this summer), she's already taking college courses and will graduate high school at 16. She's in all high honors classes and has her heart set on becoming a mechanic. Go figure. I was so proud of her today, she changed the oil in her newly acquired Miata, flushed the radiator and put in new coolant, put in a new set of spark plugs, changed the air filter, and completely detailed the engine compartment. She's a smart girl and not afraid to get her hands dirty.
  16. No, this is a CMC Model, from a company in Germany. Completely pre assembled by them.
  17. Took my grand daughter, turning 16, to pick up her first car yesterday evening. Mazda Miata.
  18. Generally speaking, I have had very good service when ordering items from Japan, but less than stellar service from Korea. Not sure why, but it seems to take a lot longer period of time to receive goods from Korea. I often receive items from Japan in less than two weeks time, Korea sometimes two months! An a separate note, each the several photo etch frets/sets contained in that one detail set are available separately. Try to find a close up photo of the set box top. It shows the photo etch fret numbers contained in the set. Maybe Mike will take a look at the box his set came in and list the items numbers of the frets contained in the set for you.
  19. I thought about the same thing....surrounded by fuel. Yikes!
  20. Spindles, brake disks, calipers, shift linkage, and various fuel lines have been added.
  21. There's ductwork for the rear brakes as well. To be installed in a later step.
  22. Here, the upper control arms and disk brake cooling systems have been painted and installed. Pretty neat how they include the brake cooling systems with ductwork and everything in this kit.
  23. A life long friend in the hobby business routinely bought entire inventories (models and related items of all descriptions) from bankrupt businesses and estates for exactly what you said, 10 cents on the dollar. That was the going rate and probably still is in a distress sale. It was nothing short of amazing to walk into his hobby shop and spend half the day just looking at everything he had, and then you only saw a tenth of it because he owned warehouses full out of sight. Today I regret so much that I did not have the foresight to take photos of his business both inside and out to save for posterity. It's all gone now and I can't find photos of it anywhere. Sigh...the good old days. I used to bring thousands of dollars worth of hobby items to him and he would trade with me. Got some mighty fine models from the man.
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