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CDW

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Everything posted by CDW

  1. This photo is included for the benefit of the next builder of this kit (Mike). The piping highlighted by the yellow arrow shows the side of the engine I needed to route the piping in order to make the connection in the rear of the cockpit area. The instructions call for the piping to be located on the opposite side of the engine, but I could not get it to fit the connection point in that configuration. Just so you're aware...
  2. At this juncture in the assembly process, a decision is to be made whether the doors will be operable or static. If operable doors are chosen, the top of the chassis tub must be notched to receive the hinge. In my build, I will not be installing operable doors, but the procedure is simple enough if you choose to do so.
  3. It's been a pleasant surprise how much detail Accurate Miniatures packed inside these kits. I can understand to a degree why some modelers had trouble assembling the kits. Slow and steady is best. Haste makes waste with something like this, plus it's a kit that would be much better the second time around as the first time gives you lots of ideas of how you would improve it the second time around. Actually, that happens to me every model I build come to think of it.
  4. It's going to be much busier. Soon. Mike's gonna love these vinyl pipes and wiring. They have a consistency similar to artificial fishing worms. The worst part is trimming away the flash. Only a fresh, sharp blade will do the trick. Even that is "iffy".
  5. Added some more painted pieces to the chassis today.
  6. Testing some custom color mix and here is my first shot at creating McLaren M8B orange. This mix is 8 parts Tamiya flat yellow, 6 parts Tamiya flat red, with one drop of Tamiya semi gloss black. Looks pretty close to me.
  7. Thanks Lou! I just ordered both sets (car and tires). Had no idea there was someone out there making these today.
  8. It rained on Saturday and that gave me a little bit of time to spend on the McLaren. Attention turned to finishing the engine/transaxle, then assembling and painting the chassis tub. It was first given a couple of coats of semi gloss black as a primer, then painted with a dull aluminum finish. Will add more detail to the assembly as time allows this week. Looking for scraps of decal to finish this car as the 1969 McLaren M8B of D. Hulme, the #5 car.
  9. You know, when you can find one, even the 1:24 scale model of the McLaren F1 street version is $100+. The race cars are less, but the street version is hard to find and expensive, like the 1:1 car.
  10. Sigh...dang Lou, that was a wet blanket. 🤔 I am tired and sore from the past two days of work. Still more to go so I better shape up. 🙂
  11. Thanks!....great stories. Could not stop watching until they were over.
  12. Oh yeah, forgot to mention. Locked my keys in my car at a shopping mall Saturday. Believe it or not, first time ever I've done that. Called insurance company roadside assistance and 45 minutes later a locksmith arrived. Wondered how they managed getting a new car like mine unlocked. They use a small, approx 8" x 8", airbag to slip between the seal rubber and door window frame. They pump up the airbag to create an opening large enough to slip through a fiberglass specialty rod that flips open the door lock inside the car. Took not more than 5 minutes total. Easy money for a locksmith. Insurance paid it all. 🙂
  13. Gonna be taking some days off to start and finish chores around the house. It's already spring, here. Lots of leaves and Oak Tree blooms to clean up. Putting up a new swimming pool and disposing of an old one. Getting the patio ready for summer nights to come. Probably just a little painting, too. Went to a great model swap meet yesterday, came home with about 20 kits I didn't have before with a few multiples of some I did have but could not pass up the bargains. All car/truck models, some paints. Passed up several nice steel hull ship models and a couple of live steam farm tractors. Tractors were tempting, the ships not as much. 1:400 scale odd balls. Heller. I'll be back when I get back, Duty calls. 🙂
  14. I think the problem might be having paint that sticks to the vinyl without peeling away. I'll give it a try once I get finished handling it. Handling it will probably be the biggest threat to peeling paint on the vinyl. Maybe I can use colored markers since that's ink and won't peel.
  15. Here is more engine detail added including the ignition system and fuel tubing for the injectors. I left the fuel injection lines disconnected for the photos just so you could get a visual image of the "bird's nest" that's involved. I made up my mind to use everything from the box, no aftermarket or home made parts, before I started this project. In retrospect, this could have looked much better with some aftermarket wiring and fuel tubing. The kit instructions do not recommend painting the soft vinyl wiring/tubing, but I may try anyway before it's all done. I think it needs a little color to break it all up a bit.
  16. You guys can have mine (shot). 😄 Great looking PT Denis. The hull is beautiful.
  17. In these photos, the remainder of the engine/transaxle/suspension/brake system components have been painted and assembled. If you ever have the pleasure of building one of these kits, I recommend super glue for most of the construction of this entire assembly shown. While it's a well detailed kit, it's not a shake and bake kit. It does require a little coaxing to get everything into position and stay there. Super glue greatly aids this endeavor.
  18. Something else I forgot to mention: Notice that the engine has no typical oil pan reservoir . Rather you'll see a pair of hoses attached at the bottom of the engine crank case. Those are oil lines. This engine is what's commonly called a "side oiler dry sump". The engine oil pump is located externally from the engine and oil is fed and returned through those two lines and connections you see at the bottom of the crank case. Just as an FYI on racing engines.
  19. Since Mike is going to be building this same model, I am going to try to give him a heads-up on the little idiosyncrasies that might help since I am walking point on this mission. Notice on each side of the engine at the transaxle bell housing there are braces that attach and lead forward to the mounting panel at the front of the engine. One brace goes beneath the headers while the upper brace weaves it's way through the header pipes. The instructions call for installing these braces first, then fitting the header pipes around the brace on each side. It's much easier if you install the headers first, then fish the brace through the header pipes second, exactly opposite of what the instructions say. Just my 2 cents. 🙂
  20. Make sure to use a fresh scalpel blade to trim away the flash. Very soft and rubbery, so it's easy to work with. Use superglue to cement it in place. Thanks OC
  21. Great insight into the J Car, thanks Lou! Very nice looking set of multi-piece headers come with the kit.
  22. Did a little more work on the engine tonight. The kit provides soft molded vinyl hoses and ignition wiring. You can see some of the hoses attached to the engine and some loose ends that will attach further along in the assembly sequence. The powerplant is a Chevrolet 7 liter V-8, the fabled 427 ci "rat" motor. Aluminum block and heads.
  23. That was a great video Lou. Jim Hall raced a giant hoover vacuum machine.
  24. Accurate Miniatures put excellent molded detail into their kits, much higher quality than you will see in typical Revell or AMT kits. Because it has such good detail, decided to highlight it by giving the engine and transaxle assembly a dry brushing with neutral gray in order to bring out those molded in details. When it's all dry, will give everything a black wash to tone it down a bit. You can see the depth the dry brushing gives.
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