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CDW
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FINISHED - Toyota Sard Supra GT - Tamiya - 1:24 Scale
CDW replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Construction began with sub assemblies and some painting. The underbelly is painted in flat white with certain portions of it done in silver/aluminum as per the painting instructions. Other various shades and colors are used on sub assemblies, again as per the painting instructions. The only view of the car engine/transmission is what can be seen under the car, so nothing above that is modeled saving on the parts count.
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FINISHED - Toyota Sard Supra GT - Tamiya - 1:24 Scale
CDW replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
When I was in high school, a friend bought a new '71 Toyota Corolla, just the basic model which sold for around $2,000 brand new back then. Shortly after he bought it, he was involved in an accident that did some fairly major damage to his car body. He felt certain the new car would be totaled by the insurance company and he would get another brand new car. In the meantime, he abused that car in so many ways it was ridiculous, but nothing he did ever seemed to hurt that car...it just kept right on going and going. The insurance did not total the car, instead they repaired the body. His mistreatment of that Toyota and the way it held up and ran as fine as a sewing machine convinced me of the quality of the Toyota's. You just couldn't kill them. Great cars! And cheap back then, too. -
You already found it! ☺️
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FINISHED - Toyota Sard Supra GT - Tamiya - 1:24 Scale
CDW replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I plan to do this with Mr Color flat white lacquer, then clear coat it with gloss lacquer. The quick drying time of lacquer should help avoid the blobs I hope. -
This 1:24 Toyota Sard Supra GT is a model that was stored in my garage for more than a decade. When I dug it out and opened the box, found the decals had aged to the point of no return due to heat in a non climate controlled environment. After writing Tamiya USA an email and paying less than $5, I had a brand new decal sheet to replace the old worn out one that came with the kit. This is going to be the subject of my next project. It's a rather simple kit to build but the colorful decals make it interesting to me. Can't remember the last time I built and painted a straight gloss white model.
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Thanks guys. Did anyone see the cartoon movie, Who Framed Roger Rabbit? This car reminds me of the cars in that cartoon...long sweeping curves and a long. long, hood. My kit decals were shot as age did them no favors. I think I'll write Heller to see if I can buy a replacement decal sheet just for the registration numbers that go on the back spare tire cover and on the front bumper. Looks sort of naked without them.
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Well, that's all folks. I'm calling this one done. Moving on to something else now.
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Thanks Mike. So many times it takes two kits to get one right. You learn all the shortcomings on the first kit and then can improve the second kit with the knowledge you gained on the first. It's good to read about it in construction articles, but first hand experience doing it is always the best teacher for me. This kit is no exception but I have no plans to build another. I should have it completely finished by tomorrow unless something unexpected comes up.
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Here you can see what I mean about the wheels not being centered in the front wheel well openings. To fix this, one would need to stretch the frame just a smidgen. I am going to live with it as it is. You can also see the gap that exists between the area below the grill and front fenders.
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I have painted 1:1 cars/trucks/motorcycles with lacquer that shined like a diamond after they were polished. No clear used at all. The old cars like these were all lacquer so a deep shine could be easily achieved.
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To me, one of the most glaring errors in the kit is the incorrect look of the wheel base length in relation to the fender wheel openings. They are off a bit. Secondly, as was mentioned in the article you referenced, there's a gap between the fit of the grill and the bottom of the fenders in front. Without some major, major, modifications, there is no fix for this. Just have to live with it as it is. I know I certainly would not be interested in spending the time and effort it would take to correct all that. I'll repeat, be prepared for a headache if you decide to buy and build this kit, and/or be prepared to accept it for what it is, the only model of this beautiful car (that I know of) but it has a few warts. Like I always say, the small but annoying errors will never be noticed if you're riding past it on a galloping horse. 🤥 It will take a happy place right along side of my 1931 Cadillac V-16 in the new display cabinet. Here she is with a few gloss coats applied and before I add all the little extras. Gloss is Mr. Color lacquer. Final photos to come later today or tomorrow.
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This is about as close as I am going to get the fenders/hood/grill to fit. Next will lay down the clear gloss coats, then the chrome bits and pieces, bumpers, windshield frame/wipers, etc., and call this one done.
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Egilman That was a great find on the Delahaye build thread. The poor guy went through the same thing I am going through right now with the front fenders. I'm going to take the time to read through the whole thread, but I cheated ahead to see what he did with the fenders. Too bad the designers didn't spend the time to work this out. I do not recommend this kit for the casual modeler. It will give you a headache.
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Hood pieces and the lower hood pieces with the grill are all cemented together. Now I have to find a reliable way to attach the front fenders to the frame so the wheel wells line up properly. Unfortunately, the kit designers were asleep for this part of the kit as there is really nothing to make that happen except for doing it yourself with a method of your own choosing. These photos are just a dry run and obviously not aligned.
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I think, you're right Egilman. The best approach will be to glue those lower panels to the hood along with the grill then fit it all down against the fenders and frame. I was trying to make it align so the hood could be removable, but I am more interested in the body lines remaining intact than displaying an engine.
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Thanks gentlemen. I'm struggling just a bit right now with a couple of pieces that go between the frame and the hood, parts numbers 5 and 6 on the instruction sheet. These parts make a fit between the hood, the grill, and the front fenders. The instructions are unclear on exactly how they fit, and they do not fit without some modifications and tweaking of the several parts to which they attach. The most critical part of it is to make sure the hood and grill fit properly once the parts are cemented in place. I've already glued and removed them for adjustments several times now. Maybe the third time will be a charm. We'll see in a bit.
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Great looking Fokker Denis!
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Mockup
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Fenders mounted to body
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While the kit provides the chrome trim strips for the body, it omits the chrome stone guards that can be seen on the bottom of the rear fenders (see box art photo in first set of photos). To simulate the stone guards, have used bare metal foil.
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Here we go with masking for the accent paint. Some of the masking is brush-on liquid masking film. Then some painting (midnight blue) Then mask removal after pint dries
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Fenders now have primer and paint. Paint color is midnight blue, another metallic color. For contrast, the final picture shows the color combination used for this model.
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Thanks guys. You know the old saying, absence makes the heart grow fonder. Sometimes it helps to step away from a hobby for a period of time and change up a routine. I used my swimming pool more this past summer than I've ever used it before, plus got a lot of projects done around the house.
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The fenders show the odd use of multi-colored plastic in construction of this kit. A good layer of primer coat will quickly solve that issue. Interior is very simple, but will mostly be unseen anyway. The finished body is what I'm after with this kit. Love the art deco lines of it.
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Take a look at the 2nd photo in my previous post. After I looked at the photo, I noticed something I had not noticed when I sprayed the model. There are a few small specks of something that go unnoticed until closer examination of the model. This is where I let the paint run out in my airbrush cup which caused it to spit. With metallic paints like the silver I am using here, these specks become very noticeable, particularly after a clear coat goes on top. I know better than to let my paint cup run dry like that, as it's not the first time that's happened to me. But it's worth noting to my friends who may not have experienced this phenomenon before. Always keep your airbrush paint cup filled particularly when spraying metallic paints. At this point I will give it a second coat to try and hide the specks.
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