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CDW

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  1. Thanks for all the info Kurt. Glad you said something about the color of the high pressure hose. The instructions called for it being yellow but I will change it to flat red (or flat black?) based on what you've taught me. The pump I will leave silver as it will be completely covered by the control panel anyway. Why is it the model manufacturers always seem to get the colors wrong on their instruction call-outs? Checking the fit as I go along. Painted the control panel today.
  2. Here is the finished chassis, ready for the cab and body additions that ride atop of it. Next is the control box that rides midway between the cab and body of the pumper. If my terminology is incorrect for this piece, maybe Kurt will chime in and give me a hand for the proper name of it. It's made up of diamond plate and has lots of instruments and couplings attached. As pictured, you see it in black primer which I use before applying the shiny aluminum diamond plate finish. I like to use a semi gloss black acrylic for this primer as the aluminum plate metallic paint goes down very well on top of it. Last is a hose reel that's part of the control box assembly. Also, this part is primered in semi gloss black acrylic and will be silver metallic with yellow hose.
  3. Great story, Kurt. Thanks for sharing that with us. I never knew the original helmets were made of leather. When I was growing up, the city Fire Marshall lived across the street from us. He had a personal vehicle that was either a Plymouth or Dodge, can't remember for sure, but it was fire engine red in color. I remember thinking how cool his car looked back then. It had the push button gear shift for the automatic transmission. My dad was a business man, and a local politician. We had a police 2 way radio installed by the city in our family vehicle (a 1955 Oldsmobile). Many times, my dad drove us to the scenes of fires he learned about over the radio and we watched the firefighters put out the fires. Very exciting to see as a kid.
  4. Caught this photo of the "Bethlehem Star" at dusk this afternoon. The two planets had just come into alignment.
  5. The entire chassis gets painted black. Boring, I know. I'll go around and add some metallic details here and there just to liven things up. Here, wanted to dry fit the wheels to the axles. Preparing to add a few more chassis/drive train parts, then paint a little more black before starting on everything above the chassis.
  6. Assembly begins with sub assemblies of the chassis, drive train, and the massive water pump. No engine detail is given in this kit, but it's just as well as we could not see it even if it was there in magnificent detail as it is housed within the cab.
  7. Oh yeah....you're right! Didn't even think about College Park Maryland. After the fact, I did find a decal sheet that has Philadelphia and City of Baltimore on it, on Ebay. Now that I realize College Park is a legitimate fire department, I'll probably just stick to what I've got.
  8. I looked for some aftermarket decals but did not find any. Would be nice to have some from a well known city or county, but generic may have to do. This kit is very well detailed and from photos I have seen, produces a very authentic looking piece of equipment.
  9. A new next project: The 1:25 scale Trumpeter American LaFrance Eagle Fire Pumper
  10. Playing around with a little wave/splash effects just for the experience and experiment of it. Used cotton and acrylic gel.
  11. Here's a progress update on the IJN I-52 / Ocean Scene project. I settled in on the color for the water and have begun mounting the sub in the water after finishing the construction and painting of it. What you see here is a work in progress as I fumble my way through, experimenting with techniques to create action that creates the illusion of the boat moving through the water after just surfacing. Have more to do on the one side while the other side is bare for the time being. Working through this process for the first time, I didn't want to get too involved with the first try, but rather use this as a learning experience for other more detailed projects that I might want to try later. I am open to suggestions or constructive critiques that will help me through this learning experience. In many ways, I prefer this method of displaying my ship models.
  12. Your wood work looks superb, Denis. Seems like the Dumas models are primarily designed for RC, not so much for scale model displays. That's why there is only a single 2 blade prop including in the running hardware. Really taught me some things I did not know about PT boats here. Very interesting composite material.
  13. Your boat is coming along beautifully Denis. Does it come with all the fittings or are those extra? Over the Thanksgiving holidays, I had to replace my hot water tank as well. Good thing my sons were here to help me. That would have been a bear for just me. Had a hard time getting the tank to drain properly and that made it very heavy to get on the dolly and outside of the house. Once we got it outside, draining it was no problem. 🤥 Installing the new one was fairly easy, too.
  14. Learning as I go along here...I added some Tamiya clear blue and I think it gives the look of a little more depth. Later will add a clear coat, then pause until tomorrow when I can go to a craft store to pick up some gel medium. The medium will add improved wave effects.
  15. I learned it from another modeler. Very little white glue really. Bought a pint bottle and used less than a 1/10th of that.
  16. The whole board gets a coat of Mr Surfacer 1500 white. The a light preshading of 2 parts Tamiya medium blue: 1 part Tamiya green: 4 parts reducer Next will play around with some clear blue and clear green followed by an overcoat or two of Tamiya clear.
  17. Next another coat of white glue goes down over the whole base to take the sharpness off the ridges and waves in the foil.
  18. After the glue dried on all the small pieces of foil, I smeared white glue over the top of the entire thing. Next I used one big sheet of foil to press down on top of the freshly applied white glue, being careful to make the sheet conform to the previously random applied wrinkled foil pieces. I have set this aside to dry.
  19. I used scraps of aluminum foil that were randomly wrinkled, then glued to the foam board with white glue. Once the board was covered with these pieces of foil, it was set aside to dry.
  20. To begin the creation of my open water scene, I cut 4 pieces of Dollar Tree foam board to a dimension of 10" x 14" and sandwiched the pieces together using white glue. I used the submarine model to draw an outline of the hull onto the foam board, then hogged out the foam with a scalpel, keeping the stern area a deeper cut and the bow a shallow cut as I wanted the model to sit with the stern under water and the bow raising out of the water as if the sub was surfacing from below the depths.
  21. I read either the same article or a very similar one that told about the Avengers, the sonobouys, and how they sunk her. My goodness, the wreck is over three miles deep! No wonder no one has recovered the gold. Is a recovery from a depth like that even possible with today's modern equipment? It's a fascinating story for sure.
  22. That's years and years of Marine Corps marksman training right there Ken. 🙂
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