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CDW

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Everything posted by CDW

  1. The Firecracker 400 races always required lots of drinking water to keep from dehydrating in the July sun, and lots of suntan lotion. Back then, it was no problem to bring in coolers with your own drinks. NASCAR races were awesome! My Dad took me to lots of local races as well, asphalt tracks and dirt tracks. Interestingly, that led to to love drag racing as well, but my Dad was never a fan of that. Back around the same '60's era, my Dad and older brothers bought a racing go kart that we campaigned locally until my Mom realized how dangerous it was and cut our water off. That little twin engine go kart (Dart Kart) would do well over 100 mph in a straightaway. Twin Westbend racing engines. Light as a feather.
  2. Thanks for the kind words gentlemen. I forgot to take a photo of the engine compartment. In a future build, I will spend the time to super detail a few engine compartments but didn't feel motivated to do it with this one.
  3. My preference for circle/oval track racing over the twisting, winding road courses is strictly from an observer's/fan's point of view. I could see the entire track from the grandstands, but at Sebring, could only see what was directly in front of me. Not nearly as entertaining.
  4. Some of the favorite memories of my youth was attending the annual Daytona Firecracker 400 races with my parents, family, and friends each July 4th at the super speedway at Daytona Beach, Florida. The whole sight, sounds, smells, and feeling deep in the pit of your stomach as the powerful engines roared past the grandstands was exciting beyond belief. Watching these similar races today on television does not do justice to replacing the experience of being there in person. Even though 1966 was almost 55 years ago, these cars were incredibly fast back then, easily topping speeds of well over 200 MPH as they charged down the long straightaways. Those images will always be in my mind. This particular model is very similar to the ones campaigned by some very famous drivers, but the decals that come with the kit are generic in nature, not actual. Tiny Lund raced in car number 24 in 1966 to an 8th place finish. I may order the decals for this car but have not decided for sure yet.
  5. I need another day, more or less, to finish this project. It's getting real close to finished now. Needs the rear and front spoilers added, various engine compartment details, side exhaust pipes and headers, various water-slide emblems and badges that go on the body and under the hood. I have a set of traction bars that came with the kit, but am going to leave those off, saving them for another, future Camaro project to help replicate Grumpy Bill Jenkin's 1970 Pro Stock Camaro drag car. Whereas this is a split front bumper model, Bill Jenkin's 1970 Camaro was a full bumper version.
  6. Added front and rear windscreens, tail lights, chrome trim and headlight buckets with a Molotow pen.
  7. Waiting for the decal solvent to do it's thing. The decal sheet comes with the various placards and emblems to add a nice touch. Decals are not up to Tamiya quality, but for the small cost of kits like this, they are not too bad. Although the long accent stripes down both sides of the car split in multiple pieces before I even tried to slide them from the backing paper. Will have to touch up a few places with black paint but that won't be hard to do.
  8. Clear coats have been applied over the silver. Black accents to be applied next. Got started on the interior tub. More to come.
  9. I wish that was always true, but thank you for the kind thoughts.
  10. I am very familiar with hurricanes, gators, and sinkholes. Learned to live with that from five generations of grandparents who came before me. Earthquakes, wild fires, and landslides, not so much. 🙂
  11. I owned a '69 Chevelle that was painted in the same shade of silver.
  12. Now you know why I primered it in black, but I thought you would have picked that up earlier. Black is the correct primer for any silver finish. The plastic looked horrible before paint. Green plastic could not hide the ugly of the imperfections in the plastic. Green plastic only makes it more difficult to cover it with primer unless you do it it black primer. That dark green plastic would have required a lot of primer to do it in white. I am not a big fan of colored plastic for that reason.
  13. Here is the Argento Nuburgring sprayed over the black primer. It will get a clear coat.
  14. This is my main body color. Paint job will be two-tone, using black as the second color.
  15. This is the 2nd coat of primer and a dry fit of the chassis/engine.
  16. In the 2nd to last photo above, you can see the mold defect for the headlight. I'm not going to lose sleep over it, nor am I going to spend a lot of time trying to fix it.
  17. This is the primer/surfacer I'm using for this model. I mix it in a ratio of 3 parts paint : 7 parts reducer. Here is the first coat of primer. Here is the first coat after wet sanding. 2nd Coat of primer comes next.
  18. I couldn't catch the light just right to show the imperfections, but the sanded filler will give you an idea of how severe it was. In these first photos, I am showing how I damaged the radius where the hood meets the car body/windshield area while I was sanding the putty that filled the sink marks. To repair the damage, I glued on a short length of plastruct plastic rod to the hood then sanded/reshaped the plastruct to reconstruct the radius. 75% of the work to build a kit like this is preparing the body for paint, then priming and painting it. There are a lot of seams that need to be filled. primer will be applied, wet sanded, and primed again before finish paint is applied.
  19. Here are the sink marks where filler putty was applied then sanded down.
  20. Thanks gentlemen, glad you're here. The car body is disappointing. Hoped it would be a nice, retooled mold, but no dice. The top and the hood have some sink marks which I will spend a little time filling, but the location of the sink marks in the hood are in a real bad place, being right smack dab in the sheet metal roll where it shapes up to the induction cowl. One of the head lights is mis-shaped and will look odd. Oh well, it is what it is. Not going to try to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear, but will make it presentable as possible without spending an inordinate amount of time on it. And an ugly green plastic at that. 😄 Don't know why they do that crap. 🤥
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