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CDW

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Everything posted by CDW

  1. Next will begin working on the interior. I have some photo etch door handles and window cranks, as well as photo etch and printed instruments/instrument cluster panels. These should be far better than the molded on details which are rather soft on detail. To show it all off, will probably use the top down feature rather than top up. In the meantime, will begin stripping all the chrome from all the detail parts and begin the task of painting them.
  2. Thanks Edward. Outdoor lighting gives a much better rendition of the actual color of the model. When I went to mix my clear coat system, I found out my bottle of hardener had actually solidified completely, making it unusable. Now I know this stuff has a shelf life. I had used the 2K clear coat system on a few different models over the course of the past year, but by now, it had perished. In lieu of the 2K clear coat system, I used Mr Color gloss clear for the clear coat finish observed on the model as it stands now.
  3. Thanks OC. It's somewhat washed out due to using the camera flash mode. The photos were taken late in the afternoon while the sky was very cloudy. As a result, there was little to no natural light. In natural light, the color is a little darker, more like a light metallic emerald green.
  4. I finally put some paint on this thing. Almost all chrome will be stripped away then repainted with a chrome finish. Just not too thrilled with the kit chrome. Down side is, stripping and repainting all the little chrome parts will be time consuming. Hopefully it will pay off at the end.
  5. You open your window up north so I can get some of your cool weather. I'll open mine so you can get some of the heat (from Florida) that will rise to the north. It was HOT today here.
  6. Hi Jack Love your modeling subject, the M4A3 Sherman. I recently picked up a copy of the M-50 Isherman, an Israeli adaptation of the venerable Sherman chassis that served well during early middle eastern conflicts in the 1960's. Back some years ago when we had a strong local IPMS modeling club, a number of por members were huge armor fans, and I always enjoyed seeing their amazing work with WW2 armor. The Sherman was always a favorite modeling subject due to the many significant variations it took on during WW2. Here is a good, short, 5 minute video of the various Sherman tanks to serve in WW2.
  7. Coming along beautifully OC. I just found your build thread, by the way. I wonder if the exhausts are from Moskit. The company used to make hollowed metal exhausts just like those, for a number of different aircraft.
  8. Long ago, I made the mistake of using it as a degreaser on a 1:1 automobile engine bay. In addition to degreasing the engine it stripped the paint. Not advisable to let it contact any polished aluminum parts as it mars the finish. A very potent product but it's supposed to be environmentally friendly.
  9. Indeed, Super Clean strips paint. Done it many times. Will not harm or fog clear parts. Just don't put your bare hands in the stuff. Use latex gloves.
  10. OC Trumpeter does the Bear in 1:72, but the kit is a pig. It can be done to look quite well, but it takes a lot of work to get it there. Poorly fitting and lacks important detail. Then there is an old DML kit of it in 1:144. Don't know how good or bad that kit might be. Do a Youtube search for Flory Models where he does the 1:72 Trumpeter kit. His video might be there. I have seen it on his paid subscriber site, but it may be available for free on YT.
  11. Congratulations Edward. Your Dauntless came out beautiful. You did quite a nice work after 40 years of non participation. You caught on quickly.
  12. Lol - yep, it's all the same game. Gotta be careful with this gloss coat, it's not user friendly. But it is a mighty fine gloss clear coat, just stinks to high heaven.
  13. Thanks OC. I seem to be having more difficulty concentrating on model building for all the news that's going on right now. Hard to do both things at once.
  14. Thanks for the likes and comments. The frame is painted with Tamiya X-1, the exhaust pipes with AK burnt metal, the mufflers and leaf springs with AK gun metal.
  15. Thanks Edward. Hope you and your family are doing well during this time of chaos.
  16. There is at least one great youtube build video for the 1:24 Airfix Typhoon. Maybe more, but I watched most of the one, a great video.
  17. The white aircraft bottom is a brilliant display of your brush work. Would have never realized it was brushed on if you had not said so. Excellent.
  18. For this model finish, I will be using Mr Surfacer 1500, reduced at a ratio of 1 part paint to 8 parts reducer (Mr Color leveling thinner), applied in light coats and lightly wet sanded between coats until I am satisfied it is ready for finish paint. Createx Pearl Green for the main color on body, frame, and wheels. Createx Black for the running boards and fenders. Createx is an acrylic paint that must be applied in very light coats. It dries in a flat finish. It's reduced to a ratio of 10 parts paint to 1 part reducer. No Name Gloss Coat will be used to seal everything and give it a deep deep clear glossy shine. The clear coat is mixed 2 parts clear to 1 part hardener and 1 part reducer.
  19. The beauty of certain aircraft is timeless. I never tire of seeing them and they always look contemporary. The F-104 is one of those aircraft.
  20. First of all, you are doing a beautiful job on the P-40, Lou. I love the subject and am impressed with your model. And those new 1:24 scale Airfix kits are amazing. I think a lot of guys are hitting the models real hard during this virus shutdown. Seems like all the normal hobby sellers are backlogged everywhere I look. I'm glad to see a resurgence in the hobby. Take a few minutes to watch this little video. It may be the answer to you wing root gap problem. It will not damage the surrounding detail on your model and keep sanding to a bare minimum.
  21. Considering the molds for this model were tooled in the sixties, the detail was great for that day and time. Even the way JoHan engineered the plastic sprues to fit inside the box was remarkable. If you took the part sprues out and couldn't remember how they were oriented, you could not possibly get everything back inside the box. It wouldn't fit.
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