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CDW

NRG Member
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Everything posted by CDW

  1. That's exactly what I do/have done on my 1:700 and 1:350 warship models, except I used commercially available scale flag decals. PS: I first place the decals on the foil and allow it to dry before shaping the flag to appear as though it's waving in the wind.
  2. The parents of one of my best friends from junior high school days used to drive new Cadillacs. They would drive us over to Daytona Beach for the weekends where we spent many hours on the boardwalk, riding the rides and playing the games of chance. I always thought riding in those Cadillacs was a big deal back then. They went down the road super smooth, quiet, and the air conditioning was superb. My oldest brother had several convertible Caddys down through time. They rode the best of them all because they weighed more. Super smooth rides. I bought the same M-41 kit just to get the turret mounted .50 caliber machine gun from it, which I used on an Israeli Sherman tank. One day I should find another .50 cal to replace the one I stole then build my M-41, too. Looking forward to seeing how yours turns out.
  3. The M41 was made by Cadillac. Wonder if it was as comfortable inside as a Cadillac? 😀
  4. What a gun! Great looking model. I’ve wanted this one, too. Seeing it built is fun to watch.
  5. When test fitting the stock wheels and rubber tires, I discovered the tires are too big for the wheels. Either Dragon didn't do any proof build of their kit before putting it out there for the public to buy, or they knew about the fit issues and put it out there anyway. Whatever the cause, I needed to find and purchase a set of wheels and tires as a replacement. I bought these Eduard wheels for that purpose. I ran a little test on the drop tanks and wing mounts. I mixed Mr. Color super silver2 with Mr. Color leveling thinner 400 at a ratio of 1 part paint to 10 parts thinner. I sprayed on the highly reduced paint in light, thin coats, at 12psi ala Alclad application style. The silver was applied over a base of AK Xtreme Metal black base. The black base is a lacquer. It went down super smooth and glossy, very fast drying. The black base was shot straight from the bottle using my airbrush. I believe the silver finish may take a light polish. It is said to have much better durability with handling and masking than does Alclad, no clear coat needed. I'm interested to see how it works out. I like the silver finish, much similar to the Alclad in appearance. Very fine silver pigment.
  6. Excellent cockpit! That’s eye-popping good.
  7. If you ever try building a ship model using a Pontos detail and photo etch set, a new high water mark will be set for photo etch sequence difficulty. The good news is, perseverence and patience usually pays dividends in either case. Your work is coming along real nice.
  8. I once had a good friend from Newburgh. He and his wife both have passed away now. He used to tell me tales about his good friend “Jimmy” from Newburgh and all the mischief they got into a long time ago. One time Jimmy drove down from New York and I got to meet the legend. He came down in a big new Lincoln Town Car. Turned out Jimmy was a hit-man for the good fellas. I was nervous as a cat on a tin roof around that guy. A man of few words but he meant what he said when he did speak.
  9. Hi Dan Don't worry about a thing. I enjoyed learning more about the original, factory finish on this aircraft by everything you shared with me here. Thanks and don't hesitate to contribute in this way to any of my build threads. And likewise, thanks to you as well, EG. You are a storehouse of knowledge on so many subjects we model, and I always look forward to you sharing that information on my build threads.
  10. When listening to the YouTube video (posted on page 2) narrated by Bud Anderson, he says his ground crew worked all night stripping his aircraft to bare metal. While he doesn't mention putty, it seems likely to me that the crew stripped everything on top of the metal skin to lay it bare.
  11. What a lucky guy he is. All those warbirds along with the cash it takes to own, maintain, and fly them at will. Amazing indeed.
  12. Thanks Dan. I have no reference photos to use as a guide for the putty. Modern restored P-51’s show no evidence of the putty so I won’t try to model it now. Maybe on another build when I have reference to work from.
  13. I'm thinking about breaking up all that shiny aluminum with some various shades of aluminum on different panels.
  14. Primarily because of the smooth finish under it. But it's always that way with paint. It's only going to be as good as the surface it's painted on. I forgot to mention, the blue is Tamiya lacquer, "Pure Blue". it may be a tad darker blue than it should be, but I can live with it.
  15. I'm committed to the Petie 2 scheme now as I masked and painted the blue nose.
  16. Beautiful airplane and a great-looking model. The detail is excellent. What’s your next project?
  17. Great looking project, Jack. I've often wondered the same thing about products from Ukraine. How the heck are they doing it with all that's happening. I own quite a few of their figure kits but have yet to crack open one to finish. Your work is inspirational. That could be a beer-bong, Ken. A high-speed libations dispenser of sorts.
  18. mostly it’s trial and error experience. What’s worked for me in the past I stick with and the rest I discard. I suspect Pledge works best as it has no adverse effect on the Alclad finish, plus it’s cheap and readily available. The airbrush tends to be unreliable as it’s hard to lay it down smoothly without pooling, sags, and runs. I get more control with a soft brush and Pledge self-levels.
  19. Using Pledge, applied with a soft, wide brush to protect the Alclad chrome finish. Keeping brush strokes gentle and minimal to avoid marring the bright finish of the Alclad. Being careful not to allow droplets to appear along edges from over applying the Pledge. Less is more. The self-leveling qualities of the clear acrylic will take care of itself, so don't "over-brush" it. I'll lay down two coats before it's finished then allow a couple of days for it to cure before masking or decals.
  20. Thank you, James. The color is Alclad chrome. That particular metallic shade gives the effect with the most shine. Before I start handling or decaling and masking the model, I'll need to apply a clear acrylic gloss coat. Alclad is very susceptible to fingerprints and decal carrier film will look distorted on the model without the clear coat first.
  21. Early to bed, early to rise... She's shiny! Decided at the last minute to use Alclad rather than experiment on her with the Mr Color super silver 2. I'll experiment with the Mr Color silver when I paint the fuel tanks, racks and rocket mounts. Wheels, and UC too. I'm satisfied with the way the Alclad turned out.
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