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Everything posted by CDW
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Way back in the day when I first bought my Panhead, my engine stopped abruptly while riding down the highway in the dark of night. I kicked and kicked trying to restart it. My brother asked, are you out of gas? I replied that was unlikely as I had just put .50 cents worth in that day (gas was .25 a gallon then). To my dismay, I learned my avg fuel consumption was 25 miles per gallon. The fuel tanks only held 3.5 gallons, so my range was just 90 miles, max. Racing bikes probably sucked down fuel like mad.
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I suppose the tank could have been used to introduce a lead additive to the fuel mixture but then I wonder why it was not simply mixed in the main fuel tank. Pretty sure lead additives were developed as early as WW1 for aircraft engines, to prevent knock/pre ignition. Greatly improved engine performance.
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Not with the kit provided parts but I’m sure it could be done with the right reference material and time/effort. It’s a fairly complex assembly. Will probably pose mine closed. PS: After looking some more at photos of it, the open position offers a lot of visual effect not seen in a closed position, so I may do it open. So much more to see that way.
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Airfix really stepped up their game with this iteration of the Buccaneer. The first one in the 90's was a bit of a beast to do, but it turned out very nice when it was all said and done. This new mold is WAY better than that one so I have high hopes for it. I still prefer the S.2B version, though, in Gulf War colors/markings. I also like to use Mr Surfacer 1000 as my primer coat for the finish. I'll reduce it around/about 6 parts leveling thinner to 4 parts paint, and lay it down in thin coats so as not to hide fine surface detail while still leveling it all up. By the way, this reminds me this is a BIG airplane. It will take up a lot of shelf space.
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Thanks Mike. Here the intakes have been cemented in place and an application of Mr Surfacer 1000 brushed into the seams. Once the Mr Surfacer was dry, knocked it all down and smoothed it out with a Tamiya fine sanding sponge, wet. Helps prevent the creation of new scratches when you sand it wet. Also added some stretched sprue to the hefty gap that was in the seam in front of the vertical stab.
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Glue dried sufficiently to attach the tail cone/vertical stabilizer assembly to the fuselage as well as the forward fuselage/cockpit assembly to the fuselage. Once the joins are sanded a bit to smooth them out and an application of Mr. Surfacer with a little more sanding to blend it all in and the join areas should disappear. There is one area just forward of the vertical stabilizer where I will glue in a piece of stretched sprue to fill a small gap. Next comes flaps, horizontal stabilizers, intakes, jet nozzles, and various protrusions from the fuselage and wings. I may go ahead and prep the areas that need it with Mr Surfacer and a little sanding before adding the nozzles and intakes. They may get in the way of that later if I wait.
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Bristol F.2B WW1 Fighter by CDW - FINISHED - Eduard - 1:48 Scale
CDW replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
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Enzo Ferrari by CDW - FINISHED - Tamiya 1:24 Scale
CDW replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
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- 127 replies
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- Akitsushima
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MRAP ATV by CDW - FINISHED - Rye Field - 1:35 Scale
CDW replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
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- 174 replies
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- 168 replies
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- Scharnhorst
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- 225 replies
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- I Love Kit
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Airfix provides one basic engine, decently detailed, for the option of an open engine panel on top of the fuselage. Also included but not shown here are pieces to represent engine piping plumbing and wiring. The upper fuselage is partially perforated so the engine panel can readily be cut out. A paper template is included to get the precise shape cut out to fit the removable panel which comes as a separately molded part. My model will not display the open panel but it could be nice if someone wanted to take the time to detail it. The instructions suggest putting the engine in place even though it may not be openly displayed as it aides in the alignment of the entire assembly.
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There is a lot of detail to file off on the cockpit bits. Good luck and have fun. At first, I thought these were location points for the LG assembly, but now believe they are ejector pin marks which need to be filled. Will double check then fill and retouch as needed. Does your kit have these marks, Arthur? No biggie, just something to be aware of.
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Beginning the assembly and painting of the engines, trunking, and wheel wells. Nice details are molded in. Will pop once it gets some detail paint and a wash. All dry fitting so far shows a clean trouble-free fit with little to none seams showing up. This seems to be the best fitting Airfix kit I have worked on to date.
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