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CDW

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Everything posted by CDW

  1. With the covers removed, the spring tensioner for the idler wheel can be seen. A grease fitting on the shaft in front of the spring puts tension on the tracks when grease is injected.
  2. Once the snow started in the fall, pipeline construction would cease for the winter season. All heavy equipment in need of maintenance would be brought into the yard, then pressure washed, then brought into the shop where it would be disassembled and often rebuilt, repainted, etc. Spent a lot of good times working, joking, smoking, and drinking moonshine with good friends.
  3. Turning out such a beautiful model, Harry. Hope you have a place of honor for her when you're finished. Your sub-assemblies keep getting better and better.
  4. The road wheel/idler/drive sprocket assemblies are fairly complex. This one side took more than a couple of hours to clean up and assemble. Too bad so much of the assemble gets covered with panels and will never be seen. However, s kit like this could make an incredible maintenance diorama.
  5. Starting the color coats, I like to thin my paint 2 parts thinner to 1 part paint and lay down very thin, multiple coats rather than heavy ones do as not to obliterate detail. Since more paint coats will be applied after the tracks and remainder of the model is assembled, this will be enough painting for now. Paint and thinner is Mr Color lacquer.
  6. The next steps of construction will add the road wheels, idlers, and drive sprockets, so now is the time to get this assembly all primed and painted before the track/wheel assemblies go on. The kit did not provide any material to create the cable for the winch. I ordered some 30 gauge soft wire which I will use to make my own cable from scratch.
  7. My current sprue nipper tool collection. soon to be joined by the God Hands. 😬
  8. Of course, yes, that's exactly the way I normally do it with small parts with the small saw I photographed and posted in a previous post. However, this is not sufficient with these small parts, they still break even then. It's one of those things you can't get your mind wrapped around until you try to do it yourself. I've been doing these plastic model kits more than 60 years so there are very few techniques I have not tried. There is a very specific plastic nipper I have not yet tried due to the high cost of it, called "God Hands" nippers. The nippers are designed in a very specific way so that only one side of the nipper is the blade while the other side is a flat piece the blade comes down upon. These nippers are probably the most precise you can buy and are specifically made for very fine work. I will probably break down and order a pair this week. Amazon.com: GodHand Ultimate Nipper 5.0 GH-SPN-120 for Plastic Models : Arts, Crafts & Sewing
  9. Thanks for the comments. As for a flat surface and a sharp blade I agree. Trouble is finding a small enough flat surface. It’s like dancing on the head of a pin. As for whittling, plastic too brittle for that.
  10. Larger parts are fine, but some are cast so small they easily break apart so yes they are brittle.
  11. I kid you not, at least a half dozen of those delicate parts broke in 4 or more pieces and had to be reassembled/glued back together. What a pain in the butt. I guess you can say, I'm getting my money's worth with plenty of things to do. Guarantee you this is not a kit for the lighthearted.
  12. We were never allowed to cuss when I was growing up, but I learned the technique at Parris Island. Since then, I have had many years learning to perfect this skill but remain a novice compared to THE mentor, Senior Drill Instructor Lee Ermey.
  13. The pedals and linkages shown in the previous photos go here. It took some extra cussin’ to get it to fit.
  14. To remove the small fragile parts from the sprue trees a razor saw as shown is an invaluable tool. Even then some breakage may occur.
  15. I reduce Mr Surfacer at a ratio of approximately 3 parts levelling thinner to 1 part paint.
  16. A model like this one has so much detail, assembling and painting it in subassemblies is a necessity. Otherwise I could not get paint on the subject. In this case I am using a very well reduced Mr Surfacer dark primer that will be covered in a Caterpillar yellow in the end. The primer is highly reduced to prevent the paint pigment from obliterating detail.
  17. Did they have a side boom? This D7N would be the basis for a side boom scratch build if I had a good set of drawings to reference.
  18. First page of instruction manual completed. Look closely and you might see some of those small parts. All were used in the assembly shown.
  19. What at first looks like a fly speck is part c36 after it’s cut off the sprue.
  20. Talk about some small parts… See part number c36 in instructions Here’s that part on the sprue with a #11 scalpel blade for reference. Where the part ends and the sprue gate begins is up to interpretation.
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