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CDW

NRG Member
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Everything posted by CDW

  1. Incredible the structure did not go down. Thank God you made it through okay.
  2. There are these micro tweezers made by a company called Ustar in Taiwan. I bought mine from an Australian vendor on EBay named Amodeler. I hold the photo etch part with the tweezers in one hand while I carefully file with a Tamiya diamond file for photo etch. Correctly positioned, the tweezers secure the part so it’s not bent while filing. Tedious but it works. Hope this helps. the tweezers are also very useful for tiny photo etch that needs bending. PS: that vendor has been excellent. Very reliable and fast.
  3. I’m going to subscribe to the less-is-more school of thought and leave the rust and grime factor where it is on the chassis-drive train. Not much if any of this will be seen once the model is completed anyway.
  4. With the engine and driveshaft added, will add some weathering and rust, then the exhaust system and radiator before beginning the body panels and interior.
  5. That's good news about cleanup with lacquer thinner. I was afraid it would turn to goo like many acrylics do when lacquer thinner is introduced.
  6. That brass looks super nice, Grant. I have read that Mig Ammo uses Stynylrez to bottle up as their "One Shot Primer" brand. I learned the hard way it doesn't spray well through an airbrush with a needle less than .5mm. It stopped up my airbrush lock solid.
  7. Using black-gray as my base coat, will pick out details using other various shades.
  8. Chassis before painting. This is more akin to a limited run kit. Plastic a little on the soft side but details are good. Takes a little care to make sure where parts are to be located. Part sprues are not numbered requiring reference back to the part tree photos on the instructions where parts are numbered.
  9. Prayers going up for all of you in the impact zone of Ida. Let us know how you are doing after it's all passed.
  10. Oh man, I used the heck out of the automotive tools I once owned back in the day. Not so much these days. Been a long long time since I last owned a 60's car. More than 20 years ago. Last car I did any extensive work on was my '96 Buick Riviera. Loved the way that car looked and drove. Supercharged V-6. Once that car reached the end of its warranty, 36,000 miles, almost everything you can imagine started breaking and needing replacement. Thanks on the 44 years. She's been a keeper.
  11. Oh yeah! This came out great Denis. Love the Liberator and this one really looks the part.
  12. Exactly. My project was completed with less than optimal tools, resulting in frustration and extra time required. But eventually it did get done (probably by the skin of my teeth). I watched Youtube how-to videos in vain, only to learn I did not have the correct tools. Buying the correct tools is cost prohibitive unless one is a professional plumber and then can recoup the cost in a relatively short time. There's a reason the cost of a plumber is high, and much of that is due to his investment in tools and equipment, not to mention know-how.
  13. Great tip about the acupuncture needle. Never thought of that before. And I do agree, the ILK model does have excellent masts. It will be interesting to compare the two models side by side once both are finished. ILK Hood is an excellent value and even though the kit plastic is not quite as good as Flyhawk, the photo etch is a little easier to work with I think.
  14. She's been my sweetheart longer, but we've been lawfully married 44 years.
  15. I finished a major (for me) plumbing issue at my house, also celebrated our wedding anniversary yesterday. Now maybe my modeling time can resume to a more normal frequency. 😊 Did I mention that plumbing maintenance sucks and that paying for a plumber might be equally unpleasant? None of it is as bad as doing without so I’ll quit griping and get down to some serious modeling now (after I take a quick swim).
  16. Test fitting the engine to the chassis. Perfect fit. I have no idea whether the Germans used any particular color on their engine for this car. Just going to use my own imagination I guess. No mention of it in the instructions. They only specify exterior colors.
  17. In an aircraft like that, it'll ground loop on takeoff before you can say, Bob's your uncle.
  18. Very glad to see you have started your Hood, Roger. I would venture to say that the Flyhawk Hood could be built using all the plastic parts and only using the photo etch railing pieces and still produce a very good looking model. At a minimum, the model does look much better IMO with railings added.
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