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CDW
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Everything posted by CDW
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I use a separate airbrush to spray acrylics and keep another for lacquers only. I think what happened was my acrylics airbrush got a buildup of paint inside and it ended up choking off the whole thing when I went to spray the primer this morning. Had to do a thorough, deep cleaning of it after all was said and done. What I've noticed is that the acrylic primer does not clean up well without a deep cleaning (complete disassembly and cleaning/reassembly). I've tried several different airbrush cleaning solutions for acrylics including the Ammo one, and none of them do a good job of cutting loose the paint after each spraying session. I have not tried Windex as a cleaner for this paint, but that would be my next trial if I continue trying to work with the Ammo primer. The downside to the Mr Surfacer is that it's a lacquer and has a strong smell. OC, you won't be able to use Mr Surfacer satisfactorily in your apartment because of the smell. With your Vallejo primer, just make sure to thoroughly clean your airbrush after each spraying session. The lacquer based paints are much easier to clean up as well as keeping the airbrush clean.- 174 replies
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Gave the entire hull and deck a coat of black primer to get started. After first spraying on Mig Ammo One Shot primer and getting terrible results, I soaked the whole thing in my strip tank to remove the paint. Once it was cleaned of paint and dried out, laid down my old standby primer, Mr Surfacer 1500 and got the usual, beautiful results. Not sure why the Ammo paint went awry this morning, but it did. Mr Surfacer is very reliable and predictable. Sorry to say but most of the acrylic primers out there are awful for reliable results.
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I agree that Flyhawk is certainly the finest molded plastic kits in 1:700 scale I have ever seen. Are there others? Possibly, but I have not seen them.
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The "hike" in price is because your local dealer takes on all the risk and cost of the shipping from Asia. When a kit box gets damaged in shipping, like the one you received, your local dealer cannot sell it without selling it for a loss. When one buys it directly from Asia, one just needs to understand the risk involved. Returning a damaged item to China is cost prohibitive. The cost of postage alone is very expensive.
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There's at least one who does, did not check for others. HMS Hood 1941 Deluxe edition | Starling Models (starling-models.co.uk) Here's another: Dorking Models | Home
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There was a quantum leap in technology in a short span of time during the era of this old ship. She's a primitive old gal with a lot of character.
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That's when you wait for your local shops to get them instead of ordering from Asis on Ebay. Local shops didn't have them here in the USA when you ordered yours either. I waited until they had them here and ordered local which turns out to be a week or two faster than ordering directly from Asia.
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This is one of the reasons I pay a premium price and buy from a dealer in my own country. Could have paid a few dollars less by ordering it direct from Asia, but far too often this is the end result. There are a few dealers in Asia I trust and order from them directly, but many just don't ship with adequate packaging. On the other hand, even when packed well, the Samsonite Gorilla sometimes gets ahold of your package and it's all over but the cryin'.
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I sure am proud to see how you hung in there and worked out the little details, Alan. It takes patience to arrive at a desired outcome and you did it! Not a simple task by any means. I still believe my next foray into 3D printing will include an upgrade with an automated leveling system.
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This is the color call outs provided by Trumpeter. I plan to paint it as described in the call out. A set of paint masks would be nice. I’ll probably copy resize and print the diagram to make my own masks.
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Will start this build working the hull and main deck first. Hull halves are separated by top and bottom pieces, the main deck being one large piece. The parts fit together well and only a light sanding on the hull will be needed at the join line before I start primer and paint coats. I like the deck fit. while there’s a lot of photo etch included with the Flyhawk update set, attention to deck pieces is very light. I was hoping the photo etch would replace the plastic molded break water but **it’s not included. **Correction: The breakwater is included in the photo etch. See part G17 in the first photo. 🙂
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Looks like a fascinating book. I put it on my wish list.
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Sorry for any misunderstanding...I did not twist the steps on the ladders. They are far too small to attempt without destroying the ladder IMO.
- 225 replies
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- I Love Kit
- Hood
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Beautifully growing day by day. You are going to have a big investment in time when this is all finished, but there is so much you can do with it if you choose to go all the way. Do you envision landscape and all? Any livestock?
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Look up above at the last photo in the three I posted of the instruction sheet. The instructions call for the builder to fashion a "glue stick" .5mm high x 1mm wide. 😄 Now that's just funny as heck. Guess I better start looking for some very small diameter plastic rod to cut those .5mm pieces from. I think I actually do have some plastic rod that small, but cutting them .5mm in length might be a bridge too far.
- 174 replies
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Because the secondary guns are so freakin' tiny, risk of damage and/or loss is exponentially higher. Will wait until the very end of the build to assemble, paint, and add these itty bitty guns to the model. In my stash, I have some Flyhawk plastic molded quad guns that are pretty nice. I might opt to use those instead of the photo etch versions. Will just wait until the end to contrast, compare, then decide.
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Here are the 20mm kit guns compared to the 2 dimensional Flyhawk photo etch guns. While 2 dimensional parts are not optimal, they are far and away more realistically detailed than the kit blobs of plastic. I see no way to incorporate any of the kit parts with the photo etch in this case.
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A portion of the Flyhawk update set is devoted to the ship guns. Not so desirable to me is the fact the replacement guns are 2 dimensional. Consequently I am going to explore the possibility of combining the 3 dimensional stock gun parts with the 2 dimensional photo etch enhancements. We shall soon see if this is a viable option.
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Thanks for the comments gentlemen. You're welcome back anytime.
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Thanks for your comments Roger, and particularly for the link to the 3D Hood video. Lack of good reference was the primary reason I chose not to do a little bit of rigging. With this video, I think I will go back and add a little rigging along with a flag.
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The Flyhawk HMS Hood came with the mail today. Includes some of what appears to be 3D printed parts. Extensive photo etch and metal barrels. This is the deluxe kit and will sit on the shelf until ready to build another Hood. Gonna watch a couple other guys build it first. 😄
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