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CDW
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CDW got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Curtiss P-40B Warhawk by Asat- Airfix- 1/48
The F-22 has it all...in spades. There's a good reason it's not exported. 🙂
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CDW got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Curtiss P-40B Warhawk by Asat- Airfix- 1/48
The P-40 was extremely effective as a boom and zoom fighter. When it utilized it's strengths, it was superior. The Zero did not climb nor dive well.
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CDW got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Curtiss P-40B Warhawk by Asat- Airfix- 1/48
The paint came out great on your P-40 Lou. Very smooth finish.
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CDW got a reaction from Canute in M4A3 Sherman w/ 105 mm Howitzer & 75 mm Long Gun tanks by Jack12477 - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1:35 scale - PLASTIC
Nowadays, there are some very fine armor models out there, but none of them include the nice infantry figures like Tamiya did with their armor models. Always liked the extras Tamiya kits provided.
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CDW reacted to Egilman in M4A3 Sherman w/ 105 mm Howitzer & 75 mm Long Gun tanks by Jack12477 - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1:35 scale - PLASTIC
No, more Operation Cobra or Falaise pocket stuff.... It would have to be first army though by that time Patton's tanks had the 76.2 installed..
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CDW reacted to Canute in M4A3 Sherman w/ 105 mm Howitzer & 75 mm Long Gun tanks by Jack12477 - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1:35 scale - PLASTIC
I was looking at the suspension and the greatcoat on the one rifleman. They're all in gloves, too., so i thought late fall/winter. Could be Huertgen Forest, too. Anyhow, looking forward to see how this one turns out.
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CDW reacted to jwvolz in M4A3 Sherman w/ 105 mm Howitzer & 75 mm Long Gun tanks by Jack12477 - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1:35 scale - PLASTIC
Don't fight it Mike. There are roughly 110 aircraft kits in my attic, and a few pieces of armor! 😄
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CDW reacted to Jack12477 in M4A3 Sherman w/ 105 mm Howitzer & 75 mm Long Gun tanks by Jack12477 - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1:35 scale - PLASTIC
Could be "modeler's license" also 😁😁😁😁😁
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CDW got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Mosquito B Mk IV - FINISHED - Revell - My next non-ship project
Yes. After you have applied the paint and it's had time to dry (to the touch), it's gassed out when you can no longer detect the smell of the paint. If you smell it and it smells like paint, it's still gassing out.
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CDW got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Mosquito B Mk IV - FINISHED - Revell - My next non-ship project
Just caught up with your Mossie build thread OC. So sorry to learn about your paint troubles.
I don't want to muddy the water here, but I have to say, I use lacquer based primer on almost every model I build. As a rule of thumb, if you can smell the paint after the application of it, it's still gassing out. When you can't smell it, it's gassed out. Simple as that. I never have an issue with any other paint over a lacquer primer, provided it's gassed out. My favorite primer is either Tamiya (in the bottle) or Mr Surfacer (in the bottle) reduced with Mr Hobby 400 Leveling Thinner. Tamiya spray primer is good, too. Just make sure it's gassed out (smell it).
Tamiya bottled paints are notoriously bad for brushing. They need a retarder added when brushing. When I use their bottled clear, I always thin it considerably with Mr Hobby Leveling Thinner (40% paint to 60% thinner), sprayed on with an airbrush. It just does not give good results brushed from the bottle. I know it's too late now, but just for future reference.
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CDW reacted to Jack12477 in M4A3 Sherman w/ 105 mm Howitzer & 75 mm Long Gun tanks by Jack12477 - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1:35 scale - PLASTIC
Just to let you all know I have decided to built the "sister" tank to this model, namely the M4A3 Sherman 75 mm gun version. Since it is identical to this model except for the 75 mm gun, I will not be doing a detailed step-by-step build log of it but I will post photos of the finished model here.
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CDW reacted to Canute in M4A3 Sherman w/ 105 mm Howitzer & 75 mm Long Gun tanks by Jack12477 - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1:35 scale - PLASTIC
More Ardennes stuff, huh.😁
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CDW reacted to Jack12477 in M4A3 Sherman w/ 105 mm Howitzer & 75 mm Long Gun tanks by Jack12477 - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1:35 scale - PLASTIC
Not sure about Ardennes stuff, Ken. I just like the model and decided to build a different variant like I've done with several other models in my collections.
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CDW got a reaction from Jack12477 in Mosquito B Mk IV - FINISHED - Revell - My next non-ship project
Just caught up with your Mossie build thread OC. So sorry to learn about your paint troubles.
I don't want to muddy the water here, but I have to say, I use lacquer based primer on almost every model I build. As a rule of thumb, if you can smell the paint after the application of it, it's still gassing out. When you can't smell it, it's gassed out. Simple as that. I never have an issue with any other paint over a lacquer primer, provided it's gassed out. My favorite primer is either Tamiya (in the bottle) or Mr Surfacer (in the bottle) reduced with Mr Hobby 400 Leveling Thinner. Tamiya spray primer is good, too. Just make sure it's gassed out (smell it).
Tamiya bottled paints are notoriously bad for brushing. They need a retarder added when brushing. When I use their bottled clear, I always thin it considerably with Mr Hobby Leveling Thinner (40% paint to 60% thinner), sprayed on with an airbrush. It just does not give good results brushed from the bottle. I know it's too late now, but just for future reference.
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CDW got a reaction from Jack12477 in Mosquito B Mk IV - FINISHED - Revell - My next non-ship project
Yes. After you have applied the paint and it's had time to dry (to the touch), it's gassed out when you can no longer detect the smell of the paint. If you smell it and it smells like paint, it's still gassing out.
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CDW got a reaction from Canute in Mosquito B Mk IV - FINISHED - Revell - My next non-ship project
Yes. After you have applied the paint and it's had time to dry (to the touch), it's gassed out when you can no longer detect the smell of the paint. If you smell it and it smells like paint, it's still gassing out.
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CDW reacted to yvesvidal in Citroen Traction Avant by kpnuts - FINISHED - Heller - 1/8
As Egilman indicated, the Citroen Traction Avant was the favorite car of the "La Resistance" movement, fighting against the German invasion in certain parts of the French territory. The Traction was used for multiple reasons, its performances (unsurpassed by any other cars), its reliability, range, size, road handling and capacity. It became the darling of these French groups, fighting in the shadows against Hitler Nazis regime.
The Traction engines were even modified to run on gas, as liquid fuel was becoming very rare, and you can see some models equipped with these long metallic bottles on the roof. Parisian taxis were using them a lot in their "gas" conversion type and after the end of the war, that car continued a brilliant career with many different professions and trades. I met a gentleman who had done more than 500,000 kilometers with the same chassis on a 11CV Traction Avant. Granted, the engine had been redone twice. This kind of figure was totally unseen when most cars had a life expectancy of around 70K-100K kilometers maximum.
Yves
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CDW got a reaction from Edwardkenway in Mosquito B Mk IV - FINISHED - Revell - My next non-ship project
Just caught up with your Mossie build thread OC. So sorry to learn about your paint troubles.
I don't want to muddy the water here, but I have to say, I use lacquer based primer on almost every model I build. As a rule of thumb, if you can smell the paint after the application of it, it's still gassing out. When you can't smell it, it's gassed out. Simple as that. I never have an issue with any other paint over a lacquer primer, provided it's gassed out. My favorite primer is either Tamiya (in the bottle) or Mr Surfacer (in the bottle) reduced with Mr Hobby 400 Leveling Thinner. Tamiya spray primer is good, too. Just make sure it's gassed out (smell it).
Tamiya bottled paints are notoriously bad for brushing. They need a retarder added when brushing. When I use their bottled clear, I always thin it considerably with Mr Hobby Leveling Thinner (40% paint to 60% thinner), sprayed on with an airbrush. It just does not give good results brushed from the bottle. I know it's too late now, but just for future reference.
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CDW got a reaction from Edwardkenway in Mosquito B Mk IV - FINISHED - Revell - My next non-ship project
Yes. After you have applied the paint and it's had time to dry (to the touch), it's gassed out when you can no longer detect the smell of the paint. If you smell it and it smells like paint, it's still gassing out.
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CDW reacted to Egilman in Mosquito B Mk IV - FINISHED - Revell - My next non-ship project
I think some people have missed my point, you do not put Acrylics over FRESH lacquer.... you HAVE to wait till the lacquer is completely dry. And yes that means it has to pass the smell test.... just simple dry touching will not cut it...... Even though the surface will be touch dry and your fingers will not stick, it is still outgassing and that is what causes the problem....
Craig is telling you true.....
Me, I don't have the problem with it cause I do not use acrylics, don't own them and never will... So I don't have to worry about it and sometimes I forget to fully explain....
Thanks Craig for picking up where I dropped the ball...
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CDW got a reaction from mtaylor in Mosquito B Mk IV - FINISHED - Revell - My next non-ship project
Yes. After you have applied the paint and it's had time to dry (to the touch), it's gassed out when you can no longer detect the smell of the paint. If you smell it and it smells like paint, it's still gassing out.
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CDW got a reaction from mtaylor in Mosquito B Mk IV - FINISHED - Revell - My next non-ship project
Just caught up with your Mossie build thread OC. So sorry to learn about your paint troubles.
I don't want to muddy the water here, but I have to say, I use lacquer based primer on almost every model I build. As a rule of thumb, if you can smell the paint after the application of it, it's still gassing out. When you can't smell it, it's gassed out. Simple as that. I never have an issue with any other paint over a lacquer primer, provided it's gassed out. My favorite primer is either Tamiya (in the bottle) or Mr Surfacer (in the bottle) reduced with Mr Hobby 400 Leveling Thinner. Tamiya spray primer is good, too. Just make sure it's gassed out (smell it).
Tamiya bottled paints are notoriously bad for brushing. They need a retarder added when brushing. When I use their bottled clear, I always thin it considerably with Mr Hobby Leveling Thinner (40% paint to 60% thinner), sprayed on with an airbrush. It just does not give good results brushed from the bottle. I know it's too late now, but just for future reference.
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