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CDW

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  1. Like
    CDW got a reaction from Canute in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale   
    Glad I could help. It's a pain compared to rubber band tracks.
  2. Like
    CDW got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale   
    Individual track links are generally a real pain in the rear to assemble and fit to the model. The following photos show the way I approach the task in individual steps. 
    I first assemble the number of links necessary to carry the track around the idler wheel and first road wheel. I use Tamiya thin cement to put the links together then before they completely set up to dry, shape/form them around the idler and road wheel to conform to the shape. Use a large rubber band to hold the links in place while they set up.



    Repeat the same process to shape a track section around the drive wheel and last road wheel. Again, use the rubber band to hold it in place while the glue sets up.

    Assemble the links required to fill in the straight sections between the fore and aft sections completed previously.
     
    This is how it looks when it's all finished.

    It's important to NOT glue the wheels in place in the previous steps, as you will later remove the track and wheels so the track may be painted. Once painted, the wheels and track can then be glued in place.
  3. Like
    CDW got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale   
    The instructions call for 72 track links per side but that’s obviously too short. Extra links are provided and will probably need three more additional to allow for some sag between road wheels at the top. Maybe two will do it.


  4. Like
    CDW got a reaction from Canute in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale   
    If you are an armor model builder, your best friend will be a circle template when it’s time to paint the wheels. A real pain without it.

  5. Like
    CDW got a reaction from Egilman in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale   
    Glad I could help. It's a pain compared to rubber band tracks.
  6. Like
    CDW got a reaction from mtaylor in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale   
    Glad I could help. It's a pain compared to rubber band tracks.
  7. Like
    CDW got a reaction from Canute in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale   
    Individual track links are generally a real pain in the rear to assemble and fit to the model. The following photos show the way I approach the task in individual steps. 
    I first assemble the number of links necessary to carry the track around the idler wheel and first road wheel. I use Tamiya thin cement to put the links together then before they completely set up to dry, shape/form them around the idler and road wheel to conform to the shape. Use a large rubber band to hold the links in place while they set up.



    Repeat the same process to shape a track section around the drive wheel and last road wheel. Again, use the rubber band to hold it in place while the glue sets up.

    Assemble the links required to fill in the straight sections between the fore and aft sections completed previously.
     
    This is how it looks when it's all finished.

    It's important to NOT glue the wheels in place in the previous steps, as you will later remove the track and wheels so the track may be painted. Once painted, the wheels and track can then be glued in place.
  8. Like
    CDW got a reaction from Baker in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale   
    Individual track links are generally a real pain in the rear to assemble and fit to the model. The following photos show the way I approach the task in individual steps. 
    I first assemble the number of links necessary to carry the track around the idler wheel and first road wheel. I use Tamiya thin cement to put the links together then before they completely set up to dry, shape/form them around the idler and road wheel to conform to the shape. Use a large rubber band to hold the links in place while they set up.



    Repeat the same process to shape a track section around the drive wheel and last road wheel. Again, use the rubber band to hold it in place while the glue sets up.

    Assemble the links required to fill in the straight sections between the fore and aft sections completed previously.
     
    This is how it looks when it's all finished.

    It's important to NOT glue the wheels in place in the previous steps, as you will later remove the track and wheels so the track may be painted. Once painted, the wheels and track can then be glued in place.
  9. Like
    CDW reacted to king derelict in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale   
    Thanks Craig. That is very helpful. I always have a fight with the tracks
    Alan
  10. Thanks!
    CDW got a reaction from DocRob in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale   
    Individual track links are generally a real pain in the rear to assemble and fit to the model. The following photos show the way I approach the task in individual steps. 
    I first assemble the number of links necessary to carry the track around the idler wheel and first road wheel. I use Tamiya thin cement to put the links together then before they completely set up to dry, shape/form them around the idler and road wheel to conform to the shape. Use a large rubber band to hold the links in place while they set up.



    Repeat the same process to shape a track section around the drive wheel and last road wheel. Again, use the rubber band to hold it in place while the glue sets up.

    Assemble the links required to fill in the straight sections between the fore and aft sections completed previously.
     
    This is how it looks when it's all finished.

    It's important to NOT glue the wheels in place in the previous steps, as you will later remove the track and wheels so the track may be painted. Once painted, the wheels and track can then be glued in place.
  11. Like
    CDW got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale   
    Individual track links are generally a real pain in the rear to assemble and fit to the model. The following photos show the way I approach the task in individual steps. 
    I first assemble the number of links necessary to carry the track around the idler wheel and first road wheel. I use Tamiya thin cement to put the links together then before they completely set up to dry, shape/form them around the idler and road wheel to conform to the shape. Use a large rubber band to hold the links in place while they set up.



    Repeat the same process to shape a track section around the drive wheel and last road wheel. Again, use the rubber band to hold it in place while the glue sets up.

    Assemble the links required to fill in the straight sections between the fore and aft sections completed previously.
     
    This is how it looks when it's all finished.

    It's important to NOT glue the wheels in place in the previous steps, as you will later remove the track and wheels so the track may be painted. Once painted, the wheels and track can then be glued in place.
  12. Like
    CDW got a reaction from Jack12477 in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale   
    Individual track links are generally a real pain in the rear to assemble and fit to the model. The following photos show the way I approach the task in individual steps. 
    I first assemble the number of links necessary to carry the track around the idler wheel and first road wheel. I use Tamiya thin cement to put the links together then before they completely set up to dry, shape/form them around the idler and road wheel to conform to the shape. Use a large rubber band to hold the links in place while they set up.



    Repeat the same process to shape a track section around the drive wheel and last road wheel. Again, use the rubber band to hold it in place while the glue sets up.

    Assemble the links required to fill in the straight sections between the fore and aft sections completed previously.
     
    This is how it looks when it's all finished.

    It's important to NOT glue the wheels in place in the previous steps, as you will later remove the track and wheels so the track may be painted. Once painted, the wheels and track can then be glued in place.
  13. Like
    CDW got a reaction from Canute in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale   
    The instructions call for 72 track links per side but that’s obviously too short. Extra links are provided and will probably need three more additional to allow for some sag between road wheels at the top. Maybe two will do it.


  14. Like
    CDW got a reaction from Canute in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale   
    Thanks Rob. I planned on snow but your idea of icicles is great. I had not thought of that.
  15. Like
    CDW got a reaction from realworkingsailor in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale   
    Individual track links are generally a real pain in the rear to assemble and fit to the model. The following photos show the way I approach the task in individual steps. 
    I first assemble the number of links necessary to carry the track around the idler wheel and first road wheel. I use Tamiya thin cement to put the links together then before they completely set up to dry, shape/form them around the idler and road wheel to conform to the shape. Use a large rubber band to hold the links in place while they set up.



    Repeat the same process to shape a track section around the drive wheel and last road wheel. Again, use the rubber band to hold it in place while the glue sets up.

    Assemble the links required to fill in the straight sections between the fore and aft sections completed previously.
     
    This is how it looks when it's all finished.

    It's important to NOT glue the wheels in place in the previous steps, as you will later remove the track and wheels so the track may be painted. Once painted, the wheels and track can then be glued in place.
  16. Like
    CDW got a reaction from Egilman in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale   
    Individual track links are generally a real pain in the rear to assemble and fit to the model. The following photos show the way I approach the task in individual steps. 
    I first assemble the number of links necessary to carry the track around the idler wheel and first road wheel. I use Tamiya thin cement to put the links together then before they completely set up to dry, shape/form them around the idler and road wheel to conform to the shape. Use a large rubber band to hold the links in place while they set up.



    Repeat the same process to shape a track section around the drive wheel and last road wheel. Again, use the rubber band to hold it in place while the glue sets up.

    Assemble the links required to fill in the straight sections between the fore and aft sections completed previously.
     
    This is how it looks when it's all finished.

    It's important to NOT glue the wheels in place in the previous steps, as you will later remove the track and wheels so the track may be painted. Once painted, the wheels and track can then be glued in place.
  17. Thanks!
    CDW got a reaction from king derelict in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale   
    Individual track links are generally a real pain in the rear to assemble and fit to the model. The following photos show the way I approach the task in individual steps. 
    I first assemble the number of links necessary to carry the track around the idler wheel and first road wheel. I use Tamiya thin cement to put the links together then before they completely set up to dry, shape/form them around the idler and road wheel to conform to the shape. Use a large rubber band to hold the links in place while they set up.



    Repeat the same process to shape a track section around the drive wheel and last road wheel. Again, use the rubber band to hold it in place while the glue sets up.

    Assemble the links required to fill in the straight sections between the fore and aft sections completed previously.
     
    This is how it looks when it's all finished.

    It's important to NOT glue the wheels in place in the previous steps, as you will later remove the track and wheels so the track may be painted. Once painted, the wheels and track can then be glued in place.
  18. Like
    CDW got a reaction from Baker in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale   
    The instructions call for 72 track links per side but that’s obviously too short. Extra links are provided and will probably need three more additional to allow for some sag between road wheels at the top. Maybe two will do it.


  19. Like
    CDW got a reaction from mtaylor in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale   
    Thanks Rob. I planned on snow but your idea of icicles is great. I had not thought of that.
  20. Like
    CDW reacted to Danstream in Hawker Tempest Mk. V by Danstream - FINISHED - Eduard - 1:48 scale   
    Hi,
    finally, once competed the work with oil colors, I sprayed on everything a coat of matt varnish (a little tip: I mixed few drops of Tamiya smoke into the varnish to age a bit the stark white of the decals). After this step, I could remove the remaining masking materials to reveal the cockpit and its windscreen.


    The tail dragger went on with its doors (I see that the picture is slightly out of focus, I will take another one later).

    And also the main landing gear. She is now standing on her legs.



    The exhaust stack provided by the kit is quite good, but I bought a resin replacement from Eduard which was even nicer having the tubes already hollowed for you.

    I coated with a black primer. Then, shades of metallic steel and gold followed. Finally, I toned down the shiny finish with a mist of very dark grey. After having painted black the inner tubes, this is the final result:


    My build is approaching the end, but the final small bits are going to take still some time and it is advisable not to rush at this stage where a small mistake can ruin months of work.
    Best regards,
    Dan
     
     
     
     
  21. Like
    CDW got a reaction from AJohnson in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale   
    Thanks Rob. I planned on snow but your idea of icicles is great. I had not thought of that.
  22. Like
    CDW got a reaction from DocRob in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale   
    The instructions call for 72 track links per side but that’s obviously too short. Extra links are provided and will probably need three more additional to allow for some sag between road wheels at the top. Maybe two will do it.


  23. Like
    CDW got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale   
    The instructions call for 72 track links per side but that’s obviously too short. Extra links are provided and will probably need three more additional to allow for some sag between road wheels at the top. Maybe two will do it.


  24. Like
    CDW got a reaction from mtaylor in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale   
    The instructions call for 72 track links per side but that’s obviously too short. Extra links are provided and will probably need three more additional to allow for some sag between road wheels at the top. Maybe two will do it.


  25. Like
    CDW got a reaction from DocRob in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale   
    Thanks Rob. I planned on snow but your idea of icicles is great. I had not thought of that.
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