CDW

I didn't care for the AK True Metal paste I used on the engine block, so I decided to strip it off and go another route. I'll take this opportunity to show what I use to strip paint and the "chrome" off of molded plastic parts. It's a product many in the plastic modeling community are familiar with, called Super Clean. It come in gallon size plastic jugs, and I buy mine from the automotive section of Wal Mart. Seels for around $10 a gallon last time I bought some. It will last a long, long time, and can be used over and over again, just pour it back into the jug after use.

It stripped the wax off the engine block in just seconds, using a stiff brush to loosen the paste from cracks and crevices. Took it all the way down to my primer, which was Mr Color lacquer. Had I left it in the solution for an hour or so, it would have stripped the primer as well, down to bare plastic. If you use it to strip a model that's been painted a long time, like years, it may need overnight and a toothbrush the next day to loosen and remove the paint. it will not harm clear plastic such as canopies and windows, so that's a plus.


Next, I am using it to strip my chrome parts tree. What I really like about it, it also removes the clear paint that's underneath the chrome. The clear paint is part of the plastic plating process. Other methods such as brake fluid or bleach will also remove the chrome plating, but it won't remove the clear paint under the plating. Not to mention the fact that brake fluid is just a p-i-t-a to get rid of when you're done with it, AND it fogs/ruins clear plastic. I know, I know, I also used it back in the day but that was all we had back then except for spray-on oven cleaner, and that has all its own set of drawbacks. Stripping the chrome tree down to bare plastic usually takes a couple of hours, and sometimes a toothbrush to scrub the parts a bit to remove stubborn clear paint.


Just a word or two of caution: make sure to wear latex gloves and keep the Super Clean off your bare skin. Do not put your uncovered hands down into it. Keep it off/away from anything you don't want damaged in case you accidentally spill it. Lastly, use a container with a lid if you are using the product indoors. 
 
 

The comparison is closer to Protar, although it’s my opinion the Gunze kits are a bit better molded while Protar gives multi media parts in their kits, Gunze does not. Gunze Kia are typical of Japanese models from the 70’s. Back then they were considered high quality. Poacher is in a league all their own, twice the size and orders of magnitude more parts.

Cast metal block with black cylinder heads
 
 

Couple of years ago, bought some tubes of AK True Metal wax paste in various metallic shades. I never got around to using it so decided to try some out on the Rolls V-12 engine block. Photos I’ve seen of the engine appear to be unpainted metal, so I first covered the engine block in a black primer then applied some AK true metal iron color then polished it a bit. Maybe it’s just me, but I thought it looked too silver. 

 
Next I applied some gun metal color and buffed it. It’s a shade or two darker. I think I like the gun metal for this piece. It’s going to get shaded and dirtied up a bit later so this will just serve as a base color for the block.

That really is a great OOB wheel well from Tamiya. The Corsair is the one 1:32 Tamiya kit I do not own yet, but your build may tempt me into one of my own. Beautiful progress so far, love your work on it.

Check out this fish my grandson caught yesterday. Fishing with his rod and reel using dough balls for bait. A carp. Catch and release of course.

Moving along slowly. Quite a lot of fit, filling, and finish issues to take care of on this vintage kit. Chassis is going together while there are details to finish on the drivetrain and engine.

Check out this fish my grandson caught yesterday. Fishing with his rod and reel using dough balls for bait. A carp. Catch and release of course.

Mostly it’s just personal preference between plated vs painted bright metal. Every place where plated parts are removed from the plastic sprue tree leaves marks that need to be matched with touch up paint. Near impossible to match. Often there are imperfections under the plating that needs attention by filling sanding or general imperfections in the plating itself. There are very good paint options nowadays that give a very good representation of polished metal and I find this finish more consistent once applied.

And also the new pup came home this week. Daughter is thrilled.

Moving along slowly. Quite a lot of fit, filling, and finish issues to take care of on this vintage kit. Chassis is going together while there are details to finish on the drivetrain and engine.

Check out this fish my grandson caught yesterday. Fishing with his rod and reel using dough balls for bait. A carp. Catch and release of course.

Mostly it’s just personal preference between plated vs painted bright metal. Every place where plated parts are removed from the plastic sprue tree leaves marks that need to be matched with touch up paint. Near impossible to match. Often there are imperfections under the plating that needs attention by filling sanding or general imperfections in the plating itself. There are very good paint options nowadays that give a very good representation of polished metal and I find this finish more consistent once applied.

Check out this fish my grandson caught yesterday. Fishing with his rod and reel using dough balls for bait. A carp. Catch and release of course.

Mostly it’s just personal preference between plated vs painted bright metal. Every place where plated parts are removed from the plastic sprue tree leaves marks that need to be matched with touch up paint. Near impossible to match. Often there are imperfections under the plating that needs attention by filling sanding or general imperfections in the plating itself. There are very good paint options nowadays that give a very good representation of polished metal and I find this finish more consistent once applied.

Lower hull sone, tomorrow I’ll go topside 

Working above the waterline, some rust 

Thanks Mike, I used the hairspray technique several times now and like the effect a lot. Using the flat brush for abrasion was the key this time, helping emphasize the panel borders.
In this case the base coat is AK's Extreme Metal matte aluminum. The hairspray is normal stock and smells horrible, used directly from it's can. It's only one liberal coat, which dries very fast and the slight tendency to pool evaporates soon, in the words meaning .
The second layer is AK's Real Color interior green, an enamel color, I guess.
I have used acrylic colors as well on other projects and never had any issues. There are producers of dedicated chipping fluids around, but I started with hairspray and liked working with it, except for the smell. 

The second color dries onto a transparent film, which is water soluble. The dampening passes through the second layer and reacts with said film of hairspray and loosens it's adherence. After a short soaking period, the top color lifts easily and you have to try out the appropriate tools to chip. Tooth picks, tweezers, brushes of all sizes and states of stiffness, cotton swabs, whatever comes in handy. Try these tools carefully for the desired effect. Areas with a better hairspray coverage, peel easier, so poco a poco, step by step is the way. 
After finishing the chipping, I dry the area with a sheet of kitchen paper and let it thoroughly dry for some more hours. The area then will be sealed with a clear coat, as I don't want to have paint liftings in later stages, while masking or applying of other weathering effects.
 
With the Corsair, this is double important, as I will apply pre shading onto the chipped and sealed areas, followed by hairspray and the top color coat, again from AK's Real colors.
 
I hope that helps
 
Cheers Rob

Mostly it’s just personal preference between plated vs painted bright metal. Every place where plated parts are removed from the plastic sprue tree leaves marks that need to be matched with touch up paint. Near impossible to match. Often there are imperfections under the plating that needs attention by filling sanding or general imperfections in the plating itself. There are very good paint options nowadays that give a very good representation of polished metal and I find this finish more consistent once applied.

Sorry, just catching up on your log - great progress so far!  And a lot of congratulations to throw your way - daughter, pup and grandson the fisherman!

Moving along slowly. Quite a lot of fit, filling, and finish issues to take care of on this vintage kit. Chassis is going together while there are details to finish on the drivetrain and engine.

Check out this fish my grandson caught yesterday. Fishing with his rod and reel using dough balls for bait. A carp. Catch and release of course.

And also the new pup came home this week. Daughter is thrilled.

Moving along slowly. Quite a lot of fit, filling, and finish issues to take care of on this vintage kit. Chassis is going together while there are details to finish on the drivetrain and engine.

My baby girl graduated with her bachelors degree this morning in New Hampshire. Wife and big sisters are up there with her while I babysit our dog, Snowball, here at home in sunny Florida.