CDW

You are correct on the aqua blue. As I was saying in an earlier post, I put in an order for the correct colors in Mr Color lacquer, but it hasn't arrived yet. I cheated by using a blue-gray color I had on hand. In the not-too-distant future, I will be building a 1:48 Su-33 Flanker D by Minibase. This kit may very well be the most detailed 1:48 scale jet aircraft model ever made. At that time, I will give my complete attention to every little detail being correct, but this time, I am winging it, just having some fun with a small scale model. By the time I get around to doing the exterior, the correct lacquer paint colors will be in my possession. 
 

You are correct on the aqua blue. As I was saying in an earlier post, I put in an order for the correct colors in Mr Color lacquer, but it hasn't arrived yet. I cheated by using a blue-gray color I had on hand. In the not-too-distant future, I will be building a 1:48 Su-33 Flanker D by Minibase. This kit may very well be the most detailed 1:48 scale jet aircraft model ever made. At that time, I will give my complete attention to every little detail being correct, but this time, I am winging it, just having some fun with a small scale model. By the time I get around to doing the exterior, the correct lacquer paint colors will be in my possession. 
 

That cockpit is really nice! I don’t know about the fighters but the Russian heavy jets have aqua blue painted panels. 

One of my favorite battleships of WW2, the lines of it are remarkable. You've done an outstanding job of capturing a realistic battle worn look.

Trumpeter does a nice job of boxing the delicate parts with protective foam wrap to prevent damage in transit. Nice touch.

the fuselage halves fit together very well and it appears that very little or no putty will be needed to clean up the join lines once it’s all glued together.

 

Trumpeter does a nice job of boxing the delicate parts with protective foam wrap to prevent damage in transit. Nice touch.

the fuselage halves fit together very well and it appears that very little or no putty will be needed to clean up the join lines once it’s all glued together.

 

Determined to do this one out of box, the cockpit is rather spartan. However at 1:72 scale, not a whole lot will be seen once it’s finished anyway.
I picked out the side panel and control panel details in black, white, blue, and red. Then finished it off with a grime wash. The kit provides side panel and main panel decals but I decided to do mine with a brush instead of the decals. Builders choice. Next, it’s on to the wheel wells, speed brake internals, and intakes.
 
 

Trumpeter does a nice job of boxing the delicate parts with protective foam wrap to prevent damage in transit. Nice touch.

the fuselage halves fit together very well and it appears that very little or no putty will be needed to clean up the join lines once it’s all glued together.

 

Trumpeter does a nice job of boxing the delicate parts with protective foam wrap to prevent damage in transit. Nice touch.

the fuselage halves fit together very well and it appears that very little or no putty will be needed to clean up the join lines once it’s all glued together.

 

Determined to do this one out of box, the cockpit is rather spartan. However at 1:72 scale, not a whole lot will be seen once it’s finished anyway.
I picked out the side panel and control panel details in black, white, blue, and red. Then finished it off with a grime wash. The kit provides side panel and main panel decals but I decided to do mine with a brush instead of the decals. Builders choice. Next, it’s on to the wheel wells, speed brake internals, and intakes.
 
 

Determined to do this one out of box, the cockpit is rather spartan. However at 1:72 scale, not a whole lot will be seen once it’s finished anyway.
I picked out the side panel and control panel details in black, white, blue, and red. Then finished it off with a grime wash. The kit provides side panel and main panel decals but I decided to do mine with a brush instead of the decals. Builders choice. Next, it’s on to the wheel wells, speed brake internals, and intakes.
 
 

Determined to do this one out of box, the cockpit is rather spartan. However at 1:72 scale, not a whole lot will be seen once it’s finished anyway.
I picked out the side panel and control panel details in black, white, blue, and red. Then finished it off with a grime wash. The kit provides side panel and main panel decals but I decided to do mine with a brush instead of the decals. Builders choice. Next, it’s on to the wheel wells, speed brake internals, and intakes.
 
 

Thanks Lou

One of my favorite battleships of WW2, the lines of it are remarkable. You've done an outstanding job of capturing a realistic battle worn look.

Thanks Lou

Thanks Lou

One of my favorite battleships of WW2, the lines of it are remarkable. You've done an outstanding job of capturing a realistic battle worn look.

Update...
 
Step 4 final painting...
 

Well, it's been an adventure to say the least... Five coats of paint into it and I could see it wasn't doing what I thought it should... It was greyish yellow and blotchy, The Mr Color thinner was moving the primer underneath it... So I realized it wasn't going to work they way it does for small parts... The only way to get large even coverage with yellow paint is to spray it... and unfortunately I don't have any Insignia Yellow in rattlecan... (and Testors is 12.95 a can) Tamiya's closest shade is 8.95 a can.... But here I am with a 1/2 oz bottle  of fresh insignia yellow the perfect matching color, and no good way to apply it...

So I researched online to who locally would have a spray can of Yellow that closely approximated the right shade at a reasonable cost... Home Depot, Rustoleum, Sunburst Yellow, and only 6.95 a can... My mind was thinking on how to go about washing a bit of darkness onto it so I can match Insignia Yellow.... 

The paint guy at HD was willing to make me up as many gallons of it exactly matching my shade, but I had to explain to him it didn't matter, I had enough of the correct shade just no way to get it on the surface... Then he made a suggestion.....
 
Spray it... I ask how... He says simple.... And takes me down the aisle and points out a tool, new to me but I guess it has been around for a couple of years...
 
A Preval Spot Sprayer.... 

Load it with your thinned paint (up to 6 oz's) and spray it just like you would a rattlecan...

Right now it is soaking in thinner so the paint residue does not dry in the bottle... And it works like a charm... turns my thinned True North Enamels into an easily sprayed very thin paint... The cannisters are replaceable as well and you can get extra 3 oz jars.... It supposedly works on most paints and any liquid that can be thinned enough to spray... They do give proper thinning ratios for the various types of paint...
 
So I allowed the work I had done up to that point to fully cure and re-prepped it, scuffed it down cleaned it off and this time, primered it with Tamiya Fine white primer... Two coats is all it took...

I couldn't have asked for better... turned out beautiful... As soon as it is fully cured (it came out flat) I will re-Future it to seal it and apply the stripe decals...
I think it was 5.80, a lot cheaper than a full can of the wrong paint...
 
The man above was looking out for me today.... Because short of tracking down a can of Testors, I was SOL.... Now I have a tool where I can apply any paint I have like a spray paint...
 
All's well that ends well they say... and god looks out for fools and drunks, No longer the latter, but still the former at times... He was lookin out today...
 
 

One of my favorite battleships of WW2, the lines of it are remarkable. You've done an outstanding job of capturing a realistic battle worn look.

Thanks Lou

Well, you could always fly off! 

The propellers were also replaced 

Thanks Lou

Nearly done, if you zoom in You can see the little side scuttle, I’ve got about 160 to add plus the ships planes.  

Thanks Chris