PeteB

Albert, I think the question was asked before: how do you achieve such smooth surfaces with your carvings? They can't get better than this!
 
Thomas

Wow, awesome work Albert !!!
 
I love it that you are leaving timbers and structures unpainted. Fantastioc figurehead carving, in all a delight to look at....
 
Nils

Just beautiful. Thanks for this wonderful build log.
Tim

Stunningly crisp detail 

cheers
 
pat

Good morning.

Hi Albert, I have been away from my shipyard for a while, but am slowly returning to m own Naiad.  Its really neat to see the progress on your Naiad.  The carvings are exceptional as is the fit of each piece.  I true pleasure to see.

Gary

My experiences are not finished yet, I pushed the limit by adding two 2X extender in the spotting scope assembly.
 
Installation of the first molding
 
The position of the top frames will be final. All the frames are now glued together as a whole,  even if before, many were not glued together by the top spacers. I think I gave the frames enough time to stabilize, with also the stability of the humidity before the spring begins, not really began here, it was minus 15 this morning.
 
The blade profile exist simply because I did it few years ago. The idea for the holder is that it can be hold by both hand. It runs on the top of the plank as in second picture. In fact, I used my biggest vice on the height table. The vice is a secure method to hold the plank. When the molding is done, then the width is cut on the saw.
 
Before the installation of the moldings, a batten was installed as a guide as we have in many other modeler, just like Mark. Even if the line was already traced, the beauty of this batten is that it can be adjusted more precisely before simply because the batten is not glued. Also the batten is in one piece only to assure a smoother curve. Another advantage, the curve is easier to follow with the molding because it can  rest on a existing curve well fixed with clamps. The laser line is also very helpfull it helps to see the regularity of the curve, ad ecerything can be corrected before all is glued. It is much more difficult to install the molding with the correct curve without a guide.

Hi Mark,
 
All the extenders do not perform the same way. Some  will not include all the functions.
I use two Canon extender 2X, one version II and one version III because I can stack both together. At the opposite, I could not stack  two version III together.
 
As an example Sigma lens 600mm with Sigma extender will lose autofocus.
But Sigma 600mm + Canon extender; autofocus will be working. The only way to know this, is to try it, it is not written anywhere.
 
The main degradation when you use an extender is that you will loose 2 F stop with each extender, the quality of the photo will still be very good. If you use one extender, no function will be lose, if you use two 2X extender, Auto focus will not be working 100%.
 
By using  an extender, I can get 1200mm 2 ways : 300mm + 2 extender or 600mm + 1 extender. The main reason to use extender is the cost :
Sigma 600mm + two 2X extender :  $1800
Canon 1200mm : $180000. Of course, glasses will be better quality, but I cannot afford that quality!
 
Gaetan

Thank you,
 
Michael,
In photography, we try to learn to use the light at his best but the perfect light is not necessarily always the best light.
Learning to use less light can creates a more dramatic effect.

That last picture really shows the value of good photographic skill. and the model looks pretty good too.... wonderful work Gaetan.
 
michael

For the Gun port openings, I would say, there are 2 ways to align each opening part. An upper part and a lower part are inserted horizontally. I did trace the parts inside and outside, as it can be seen on the last picture of the previous post. The alignment of the gunport can be done on one or the other part but I think greater precision can be achieved with the inside line because this is the part which will be seen, If we check the alignment , we will check it with the inner part not the outside one, planking being installed or not.

I offer my deepest condolences to the families of the lost hockey players, as well as to all of Canada...My youngest son is riding on the ice, and his skating is the inscription: Ottawa...   

Beautiful work.

Anchor, until only experimental. If you do not like me , then make out of steel.

At first I couldn't believe the scale of the tragedy - then to find the litany of safety defects that caused the death and injury toll to be so high arose from simple greed. Appears to be everywhere you turn now- I had difficulty reading the text messages but particularly the one from the little girl trapped in the Cinema to her Parents outside. Rest little children.

I've slightly changed the way anchor parts are assembled. And another thing: today I went to work after the holidays!!! Bored!

I will like the work but not the tragedy and a terrible one at that.

For some time he was not engaged in the construction of the model, because it is impossible to remain indifferent when people die in the fire, small children... There are no more words, only work helps to distract a little from this tragedy. I wish everyone good health!!!

Thank you for the likes and the comments.
 
Meanwhile back in the shipyard, the guns are all installed and have their breeching ropes.  I put in temporarily two markers for the ends of the quarter and fore decks to check for tolerances and to think things through more on the rigging of the mainmast.  So far, so good.  There should be about 12 or 16 eyebolts with blocks for rigging behind the mainmast but that's not going to happen so I'll have to move those lines up to the quarterdeck.   Next up is making and installing the cannon traversing tackle which will be fun but also a pain as the parts are so tiny.   I'm using 5/16 inch Chuck Blocks for these.  I thought about using the 1/8" blocks but they're too tiny for these guns.  Oh well.. maybe for the 4 pounders topside and also for some of the rigging.
 
Here's the photos...
 

Thanks everyone.   Still working away at the guns.  I'm setting the last 5 into the hull and rigging the breeching ropes now.   I'm hoping to start mass producting and installing the traversing ropes and hardware maybe on Sunday.   
 
We are an emotional bunch aren't we.   This has had it's issues but not like the first one.  I think after I made the decision, I didn't cry long.  
I'm using the Birchwood-Casey Brass Black.  It's a bit of a pain in that it takes 2 dips and wiping down after each when dry.   I have a zillion (so it seems) eyebolts waiting for blackening which I'll use Jax Pewter Black for.   I kind of miss the old Blacken-it but I want to see how the Jax works.

Good progress Mark; some real teeth showing now
 
cheers
 
Pat

Thanks for the likes, the comments and the following along on this adventure.
 
The first 12 guns are installed on the port side with their breeching ropes.  The traversing tackle is waiting for some Chuck Blocks.  I've drilled the holes and installed the eyebolts for the when the traversing tackle needs to be moved to pull the guns in manually along.  Also installed were the eyebolts for securing the ship's boats.  Holes have been drilled for more eyebolts for the mainmast running rigging.  Those are also on hold until the blocks arrive as I'm not about to try to rig blocks to the eyebolts in place.  The breeching has been seized to the eyebolts but instead of the two seizings shown in various references, I only did one.   My eyes have begun crossing... and I have the starboard side to do yet.
 
There's a couple of guns not quite in perfect alignment with the rest but I can live with that.
 
I'm holding off on the deck furniture until all the guns are installed and all the gun tackle is installed.  I'm not going to go through the "oops, broke something" any more if I can avoid it.  For those keeping score... three carriages were broken in the pursuit of installing them and re-made from the extra parts I made.  Fragile little things they are.
 
Anyway, enough of my blathering on, here's the pictures.
 




 

Marking of decks and gun ports opening is on the way.
 
To do the marking of the top rails,  the stick which keeps all the frames close to each other, had to be lowered. The lower  the stick is, the greater the distance between frames has the tendancy to want to expand. This is why tie wrap were added temporarily and this is why we always set these sticks at the top.

Almost Carl,  this method being the long version,  I will only use the short version:
 
Height transfer on a stick
The stick is set at 90 degrees in both axes
a horizontal laser line transfer the line on the model
 
But it would have been nice to do it a bit faster

Exactly ... Druxey ... piece of cake for Gaetan