Jump to content
New Publication - Ship Modeler's Handbook - Temp out of stock ×

mikiek

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2,245

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by mikiek

  1. mikiek
    Hey Scott - good to see you back into it again.
  2. mikiek
    Thanks Mr Pucko - got that down. I like your color scheme too. Was just building one of the guns so I could get the ports situated around the barrel. The box cover had the carriage and wheels stained. Don't like trying to do that on laser parts. However, the box cover appears to show an even different planking scheme. From bottom up, 3x15, part 5B, 3x15, then a thinner strip, then short 3x15's at the ports. Mr Pucko, it looks like you have some thin plank strips on your interior? I get the feeling I should just put a completed gun (at a reasonable attitude) up to the hull and then figure a 30x30 port around that.
  3. mikiek
    A couple of questions if I may. At the ports It looks like both Bob and Paul notched the 3rd exterior plank up for the sill of the ports. A couple of pics in the instr show a full plank - in fact they seem to show both full and notched. And of course the interior will be different - looks like probably notched. I have probably missed it again but I don't see anywhere that states the measurement of how high up the ports begin. Also the 2nd exterior plank - or really laser cut part 5B. Bob did you glue yours on top of a regular walnut plank? I don't see that in the specs.
  4. mikiek
    OK Bob - I'll take a close look when I get back in town. I'm kicking myself for not bringing it with me. Of course that rings of ship-o-holic.
  5. mikiek
    Welcome back - Is the Union safe?
  6. mikiek
    Actual guns historically were 12 pounders I believe.
  7. mikiek
    Paul - I'm out of town again and don't have the kit in front of me. I started on the external last nite and seem to recall that both plan and instr. called for 1 3x15 walnut plank at the bottom, then the thicker laser cut piece 5B on top of that. Then finish out with normal walnut. Hope I haven't misread them again. You also have me thinking it's probably smarter to plank the interior first.
  8. mikiek
    Truly exciting Chuck! I just picked up the Long Boat and Pinnace kits. Lately, the idea of a smaller subject that still has good detail has been appealing. This one follows suit. My credit card is ready Better get ready the day this hits the market.........
  9. mikiek
    Thanks Nirvana - I keep forgetting about steel wool. I have been sanding it a lot and it just doesn't seem to be getting any better. A new sanding medium may be just the ticket.
  10. mikiek
    Lose the final product if you want, but don't lose that knowledge I'm still counting on you guys for help with my version of this kit. Very well done by the way This is a cool build. I don't have enough builds under my belt to contemplate giving away the fruits of my efforts. That may change when I run into the 'lack of display space' problem Good luck on your next adventure!
  11. mikiek
    OK - to the hulls we go...
  12. mikiek
    Have finally gotten around to finishing the gun deck planking. It went smoothly overall. I am somewhat disappointed with the caulking strips. The pix don't show it (for once) but they look a little raggedy and rough. If I had it to do again I would not take that approach. It appears the next steps are to plank the hull frame. I am debating whether to do that now or wait. It seems like this will further limit my access inside the gun area. I think there is quite a bit of stuff I could do before the planking. I'm curious to hear what you other builders of this kit did.
  13. mikiek
    Good ideas Roger - I probably make way too much and use those little plastic cups and mixing sticks (which add to cost). Just a smear on a piece of paper sounds better. If it starts to get gummy just do it again.
  14. mikiek
    NP - we gotta take care of each other. You know with that wonderful weathered look you are going to have to figure out how to 'weather' the copper as well. I'm excited for you Elijah! That was a big step you just completed. We always take a bit of a risk when we color any part of the build - paint or stain. No matter how we envision it, there is that possibility that reality doesn't match it. You made an 'executive' decision and came out a winner.
  15. mikiek
    Ulises - I wouldn't argue with anything you said. I use TiteBond Mould & Trim which is thicker and has a lot of tack. Usually 30 seconds of holding in place is enough. I used that on my hull planking and most planks didn't even need clamping. And it doesn't run at all. As far as epoxy, I wasn't griping so much about the waste - it's cheap enough. But for metal to wood I usually make the part then glue, make the part then glue,...... Having something ready made in a tube is a convenience. With epoxy, it is usually dried out by the time I am ready to glue the second part. Probably just poor planning on my part. I suppose I should make all the parts and then spend one session gluing them. I also did pick up some 30 minute epoxy. Haven't tried it yet but it is supposed to stay usable longer.
  16. mikiek
    VERY cool!!! I think you made the right choice. You know you can also apply stain with a paint brush too. A detail brush can help get the color into small gaps. You can also sand between coats. I think where there are lighter spots could be from glue or filler. While those are usually described as paintable/stainable they rarely end up looking exactly like the wood around it. Anyway, your observation is a good one. It does look weathered. Don't forget the lacquer or varnish. If you want NO sheen then use a matte. Satin will usually give you just a hint of shininess. Either will do well. I would recommend doing that - hull and deck - before moving on. Your build is really looking nice!
  17. mikiek
    If you like the variances in color now then probably 1 stain will do it. If you feel that any surfaces need lightening then maybe more than one. Keep in mind going edge to edge with different rubs isn't easy. Joel showed me some stain pens by Minwax. Those would be good if you decide on more than one. Better control. Don't know if a brick & mortar will have those but they are online.
  18. mikiek
    Fantastic job! If you do fill, you have 2 choices. Some will cover the entire hull and smooth it down. Others, just fill gaps as required. Your work looks good enough as is, so I would recommend the 2nd option. Leave that raw wood as much as possible. Big sigh of relief and accomplishment!!!
  19. mikiek
    Man that must be a load off! Seeing all that makes me think your pinrails should probably go in next. They have these wire supports under them that fix into the waterway. Before it gets any tighter at the bulwarks.
  20. mikiek
    Question for the group. If the upper tackle in this pic is frapped. What is the bottom one called? Or at the very least how is it done?
  21. mikiek
    I have been bouncing back and forth between this build and Niagara. This one is helping to keep my sanity while I debate with myself over part sizes for Niagara. The gun deck planking is under way. I went with the kit supplied caulk strips stained dark (Minwax Provincial). Assembly is pretty easy once I got the routine down. It does however, seem to be just a few steps above building a ship in a bottle. I couldn't even begin to say how many times I have bumped the frames while working inside them. While the caulk strips look OK the gaps they fill seem to collect a lot of dust when I began sanding. Even with a paint brush I could not get it all out. I suspect I will need a damp rag or something similar. The strips just don't completely fill the gap between plank edges. If I had it to do over I would probably take a different approach. Another thought would be to run the plank edges thru my table saw to square them up and smooth them off. Given the limited space inside the frame I think I am going to hold off on planking the hull and main deck for as long as I can. I think quite a bit of the assembly can be done before the planking, although it will be out of order from the instructions. I'm also thinking it will be wise to go ahead and stain and finish the deck now while nothing is in the way. I'm to the point where I need to build and install the grating before I can complete the gun deck planking. Here's a few pix
  22. mikiek
    What about rough seas (lakes)? If a gun were left untethered, how much pitch would it take before it started rolling?
  23. mikiek
    I don't mean to sound like I'm bashing coils or those that do them. It's purely a personal preference. Had I decided to cut back on the number of tackles per gun, a coil on each side would look very cool.
  24. mikiek
    Good points Jack. My father is also an artist - water, acrylics and oils. I have seen quite a few of that brand of brush in his studio. Must be a favorite of the pros.
  25. mikiek
    Thanks Don and Darrell. And also to Joel for posting the pic of a Constitution carronade that had the line frapped. I never would have even known without that. Coils are nice, but at 1:64 there isn't much room for 5 coils at each gun. Plus IMO the .012 line doesn't coil well.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...