PopJack
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PopJack reacted to Cannon Fodder in Swift 1805 by Cannon Fodder - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - Scale 1:50 - Second ship built
cdogg- they are 2mm thick. Measured three times with my calipers.
I have gotten the plank bender to work some now. I believe I was impatient. It needed to get up to temperature. So I have been taking my soaked planks working the over the plank bender into a curve and clamping to the hull to dry. Once it's bent and dry I shape it and taper it.
Captain Al- I do not like the quality of the wood in the AL kits. But I am trying not to blame the wood and learn some new techniques.
themadchemist- you're probably right about the hot water, that worked well the few times I went those lengths with the jolly boat.
My garbord plank is not perfect, and you're probably right, I have studied your build log extensively. This time around I plan on filling with wood filler more my mistakes, I'm trying not to dwell on them but in my learning I don't want to undo too much. Being double planked I have that luxury.
Here are some pictures with the current state of affairs.
The last planks are not glued FYI just dry fit. One starboard and one port side.
It's good advice to slow down, and not try to do too much. Each plank a model unto itself...I'm gonna have to meditate on that one, that's deep.
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PopJack reacted to themadchemist in Swift 1805 by Cannon Fodder - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - Scale 1:50 - Second ship built
Also I found transparent tape useful for making patterns. For me it was easier then the paper or card stock. I would lay the tape over the leading edge to be planked next to making sure the tape doesn't kink. Using a pencil lead edge I would run it along the taped plank edge and emboss the tape with the edge. I would then place this tape over the next plank to be placed and use the tape pencil line for where to trim, Of course I'd pre-shape first. This is also illustrated in my swift log if interested.
Using the 2 above methods for planking, I was able to plank both sides without any dropped planks. I'd highly recommend a planking fan for marking your bulkhead plank placement so you know how much to narrow the planks also.
I find mindset also key, Think of each plank as a model unto itself and take plenty of time. Planking has become my favorite part once I slowed down and learn to focus on one plank at a time.
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PopJack reacted to michael mott in Swift 1805 by Cannon Fodder - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - Scale 1:50 - Second ship built
Keith, Remco has something like this in his signature and since adopting this attitude I have been able to stay much better focused. and less worried about moving to the next steps.
Your deck planking looks great.
Michael
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PopJack got a reaction from Elia in Bluenose by PopJack - Model Shipways - 1:64
WELLLLLL, I have uttered some unkind words.
So, I was looking at the plans today, trying to figure out how I was going to do the rigging blocks when I got studying this particular segment:
When this caught my eye.
And then, I started looking at this:
And behold, I noticed that something was a bit different.
Which led quickly to the famous "expletive deleted," Note that the band below the "coupling band" is missing. I completely overlooked it. (It isn't on the main mast, which I did first). Not only is it a band, but it has a hoop and two "eyes" in it!
Since there are pins running all the way through the mast and glue and such, I decided to make a ring an bend around the mast. I just didn't think I'd be able to take it apart without destroying the mast. Although I know its only wood and some wire, I just didn't want to do that again.
I knew that I wouldn't be able to solder it on, but I put the overlap in so that I could drill through the overlap and have the "pin" hold it closed and tight.
I made all new parts and go this:
After making the missing parts, drilling, painting, making the parts and everything, it came out in the "there will be ropes all over it anyway" category. Honestly, it isn't perfect and there is a seam that is unsightly. But I can live with it!
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PopJack reacted to augie in USS Constitution by Hipexec - FINISHED - Constructo - 1:82
That's the right stuff. At times, brute force triumphs
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PopJack got a reaction from fnkershner in Bluenose by PopJack - Model Shipways - 1:64
Here's a funny one.
The way I figure it, the only person I can safely laugh at is myself, so why not share the mirth?
So, I'm happily working along today with my magnifiers on and my tweezers making lanyards. I'm thinking, these look pretty good! The left most in the photo is the top mast shroud that I'm working on. It goes to a smaller deadeye and when it's tightened up, should pull just about perfect!
SWMBO comes in and I start showing here what I was working on when I realize that stepping back is sometimes a good thing.
The Main Top Mast Shroud on this side passed from near the top of the mast, through the end of a spreader and then .... ooops.... wraps around and then passes BEHIND the other shrouds before coming to its dead eye.
DANG.
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PopJack got a reaction from themadchemist in Bluenose by PopJack - Model Shipways - 1:64
Question: Am I a hooker or not?
I realize that the bluenose had internal iron work on its blocks, but I've been playing with using ropes to tie the hooks on anyway. I've debated drilling, but the small single blocks are a bit of a challenge for me. Read that "I'm scared."
I made several small hooks and tied one on to a triple.
Here it is near its location and then "hooked on." To stay in place, this hooks is supposed to be moused. That makes me wonder if there is going to be anything visible except a big blob of string.
These block mount to the rail inside the monkey rail and I didn't want to fool with hooks on them, so I tied them directly onto the pins I made. I'm wondering if they don't actually look less bulky and better. (The brass wire is just scrap holding the becket open while he glue that forms it dries.
So the question is, do I tie on hooks, skip the hooks, drill the ones that are big enough? Mouse or just glue?
I'm thinking about these things and your recommendations would be helpful. Thanks.
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PopJack got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Bluenose by PopJack - Model Shipways - 1:64
WELLLLLL, I have uttered some unkind words.
So, I was looking at the plans today, trying to figure out how I was going to do the rigging blocks when I got studying this particular segment:
When this caught my eye.
And then, I started looking at this:
And behold, I noticed that something was a bit different.
Which led quickly to the famous "expletive deleted," Note that the band below the "coupling band" is missing. I completely overlooked it. (It isn't on the main mast, which I did first). Not only is it a band, but it has a hoop and two "eyes" in it!
Since there are pins running all the way through the mast and glue and such, I decided to make a ring an bend around the mast. I just didn't think I'd be able to take it apart without destroying the mast. Although I know its only wood and some wire, I just didn't want to do that again.
I knew that I wouldn't be able to solder it on, but I put the overlap in so that I could drill through the overlap and have the "pin" hold it closed and tight.
I made all new parts and go this:
After making the missing parts, drilling, painting, making the parts and everything, it came out in the "there will be ropes all over it anyway" category. Honestly, it isn't perfect and there is a seam that is unsightly. But I can live with it!
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PopJack got a reaction from Dimitris71 in Bluenose by PopJack - Model Shipways - 1:64
Although many people no longer recognize the history, James Bond's destructive wheel spinners were actually based on a tactic developed by the Bluenose who used "nails of death" to rip the shrouds and chainplates off competitor's ships!
Okay, it has been a really long day.
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PopJack got a reaction from themadchemist in Bluenose by PopJack - Model Shipways - 1:64
Although many people no longer recognize the history, James Bond's destructive wheel spinners were actually based on a tactic developed by the Bluenose who used "nails of death" to rip the shrouds and chainplates off competitor's ships!
Okay, it has been a really long day.
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PopJack reacted to bhermann in Bluenose by PopJack - Model Shipways - 1:64
Popjack - like you I noticed the internal stropping of the blocks. I decided to try drilling holes for the hooks and eyes that needed to be added to blocks. I used a #74 drill (or thereabouts) with a pinvise and CAed the hardware into the block. I have been able to do this with all the sizes of blocks included in the kit. I am using 24 gauge galvanized steel wire at the moment although some of my early attempts used the brass wire included with the kit.
After getting the hooks on the blocks and hanging them on their eye (or bail or whatever) they kept annoying me by falling off with almost no provocation from me so I decided it was time to mouse them. My first attempts were pretty clumpy looking but I kept at it until I liked the look. I used Coats and Clark cotton-poly blend thread and took the strands apart to get a single filament line to use for mousing. I think my later results look pretty good. Here is a photo of the foremast top with several blocks moused in view. (If you don't want me to clutter your log with photos, let me know and I'll pull this one.)
I think I had the mousing process documented in the MSW1 log, I'll have to add it to the new version if I find I haven't done it already.
Bob
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PopJack reacted to dgbot in Bluenose by PopJack - Model Shipways - 1:64
Depending on the size what I have done in the past is use very thin galvenized wire with my blocks after deepening the grooves. After stropping aai would apply a drop of thinned filler to the grooves. Once cleaned up you would think they were internally stropped. I have also soaked them in CA and drilled a very small hole through the length avoiding the slot and inserting a piece of wire though it. If too small the way you are doing.
David B
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PopJack got a reaction from themadchemist in Bluenose by PopJack - Model Shipways - 1:64
WELLLLLL, I have uttered some unkind words.
So, I was looking at the plans today, trying to figure out how I was going to do the rigging blocks when I got studying this particular segment:
When this caught my eye.
And then, I started looking at this:
And behold, I noticed that something was a bit different.
Which led quickly to the famous "expletive deleted," Note that the band below the "coupling band" is missing. I completely overlooked it. (It isn't on the main mast, which I did first). Not only is it a band, but it has a hoop and two "eyes" in it!
Since there are pins running all the way through the mast and glue and such, I decided to make a ring an bend around the mast. I just didn't think I'd be able to take it apart without destroying the mast. Although I know its only wood and some wire, I just didn't want to do that again.
I knew that I wouldn't be able to solder it on, but I put the overlap in so that I could drill through the overlap and have the "pin" hold it closed and tight.
I made all new parts and go this:
After making the missing parts, drilling, painting, making the parts and everything, it came out in the "there will be ropes all over it anyway" category. Honestly, it isn't perfect and there is a seam that is unsightly. But I can live with it!
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PopJack got a reaction from hexnut in Bluenose by PopJack - Model Shipways - 1:64
Question: Am I a hooker or not?
I realize that the bluenose had internal iron work on its blocks, but I've been playing with using ropes to tie the hooks on anyway. I've debated drilling, but the small single blocks are a bit of a challenge for me. Read that "I'm scared."
I made several small hooks and tied one on to a triple.
Here it is near its location and then "hooked on." To stay in place, this hooks is supposed to be moused. That makes me wonder if there is going to be anything visible except a big blob of string.
These block mount to the rail inside the monkey rail and I didn't want to fool with hooks on them, so I tied them directly onto the pins I made. I'm wondering if they don't actually look less bulky and better. (The brass wire is just scrap holding the becket open while he glue that forms it dries.
So the question is, do I tie on hooks, skip the hooks, drill the ones that are big enough? Mouse or just glue?
I'm thinking about these things and your recommendations would be helpful. Thanks.
-
PopJack got a reaction from Kerry in Bluenose by PopJack - Model Shipways - 1:64
Although many people no longer recognize the history, James Bond's destructive wheel spinners were actually based on a tactic developed by the Bluenose who used "nails of death" to rip the shrouds and chainplates off competitor's ships!
Okay, it has been a really long day.
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PopJack got a reaction from fnkershner in Bluenose by PopJack - Model Shipways - 1:64
Question: Am I a hooker or not?
I realize that the bluenose had internal iron work on its blocks, but I've been playing with using ropes to tie the hooks on anyway. I've debated drilling, but the small single blocks are a bit of a challenge for me. Read that "I'm scared."
I made several small hooks and tied one on to a triple.
Here it is near its location and then "hooked on." To stay in place, this hooks is supposed to be moused. That makes me wonder if there is going to be anything visible except a big blob of string.
These block mount to the rail inside the monkey rail and I didn't want to fool with hooks on them, so I tied them directly onto the pins I made. I'm wondering if they don't actually look less bulky and better. (The brass wire is just scrap holding the becket open while he glue that forms it dries.
So the question is, do I tie on hooks, skip the hooks, drill the ones that are big enough? Mouse or just glue?
I'm thinking about these things and your recommendations would be helpful. Thanks.
-
PopJack reacted to popeye the sailor in Half Moon by popeye the sailor - Billing Boats - 1:40 scale kit
today.......I started with the incline rails, cutting and trimming them to fit.
I began with the striped strips.......I must warn you......it does get a bit graphic here. if you have that 'dizzy issue'.....then look in controlled glimpses. if your susceptible to the 'WTBH syndrome', refer to the picture a page or two back, and it should dissipate rather quickly. my only regret, is that I probably should have made the sand area a bit wider. and so I began........
when I did the inclines, I wasn't sure how I was going to the curved parts.........I quickly figured it out though
then it was time for the bow to get it as well
until I arrived with this........really staggers the imagination, doesn't it?
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PopJack reacted to HIPEXEC in USS Constitution by Hipexec - FINISHED - Constructo - 1:82
Tomorrow I'll buy some 0.5mm drills and small gage wire to pin all these railings. I also looked way ahead in the instructions and plans, and installed the aft portion of the gangway that I temporarily chocked for extra support while I drill and pin everything. That will give me support on the forward end of the aft rail sections. Then I'm fabricating the aft rail, which needed to be bent vertically as well as horizontally (photo shows horizontal bend being forced in). I'll glue and pin the aft top rail in place, then glue and pin the aft side rails. Big job! I have no idea how I will attack the forward pair of top rails...but that's another day. I'll also try to buy some doll house moldings to trim the stern area.
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PopJack reacted to rfolsom in Cutty Sark by rfolsom - Billing Boats
Thanks for the nice words, everyone. Popeye and Marc; I did indeed purchase these eyelets in various sizes just for my portholes on the deckhouses. They only became my mooring pipes because I could not find a solution for making the ovals...
A little progress with the pinrails; they are made in 5 sections each side, and I'll be progressing from aft forward. Filling the seams between each section is going to be an interesting challenge, as these rails are stained natural wood. (BTW, I'm not too happy with my stain choice (red mahogany, too dark) but the poop deckhouse, hatches, heads, and companionway are finished this way, and I'm not about to remake them!!) I can live with this....
Photos show the first section in place, with test fit of belaying pins in last photo. When all pinrails are installed, I will then install the white paneling above. I was originally going to pin the rails in place from the outside for additional strength, but these first sections seem pretty solid, due in part to the "stanchion rail" immediately underneath. We'll see....
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PopJack reacted to dgbot in Teazer by dgbot - FINISHED - CARD - Blockade Runner
My second try at this kit proved to be interesting in that I learned several new things.
The first thing was to cut out the hull and the backbone and make sure they they fit perfect. Once I was sure of everything they were glued together.
Then I cut out the bulkhead formers and dry fit each one before they were permanenly seated.
I made sure the aft deck was perfecly aligned. Thi took some time and playing with. Paper unlike wood is flexible and you have to double check every joint.
The main deck was cut out oversize and length was measure to insure a proper fit once all the slots and holes were cut out. I am glad I did this. Note to self when printing always double check the dimension, you could always be off. Even 1/64 could mean serious trouble.
The for deck was added and I am happy so far.
Once more several lessons were learned and one is alway double check everything and take nothing for granted.
David B
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PopJack reacted to chompsalot in Rattlesnake by Brian Parsons - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
It's been awhile since my last update, but I haven't made a whole lot of progress lately. That being said, here is what I've done this week.
Sanded the stern filler blocks some more. I've tested with a plank at several points and I think it's about right now (crosses fingers)
Added the gun deck waterways. I fit and shaped the covering boards on the poop deck, but didn't glue them in since the transom wasn't installed yet.
Painted the figurehead with gold, then rubbed on some black to antique it a bit.
And here is what I've been spending too much time on. I cut off the top edge of the carving and shaped it some. The "Rattlesnake" lettering is done with dry transfer decals, each one cut and placed individually..... The lettering is kinda crooked, and it looks like the actual word is rattling...haha. If anyone noticed I'll tell them it was by design, but we all know better.
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PopJack reacted to Cannon Fodder in Swift 1805 by Cannon Fodder - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - Scale 1:50 - Second ship built
I began planking the main deck.
I cut all my planks and colored the edges with pencil in batches as I went.
I got glue all over my fingers.
I made sure I was symmetric and off the cuff with the pattern.
And am halfway done now.
I plan on simulating the treenails as I did with the rear deck sanding and staining with wipe-on.
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PopJack reacted to Cannon Fodder in Swift 1805 by Cannon Fodder - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - Scale 1:50 - Second ship built
Rear top deck in place and planked with caulk and treenails using the pencil along the edges and simulated nails drawn on.
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PopJack got a reaction from tasmanian in Bluenose by PopJack - Model Shipways - 1:64
WELLLLLL, I have uttered some unkind words.
So, I was looking at the plans today, trying to figure out how I was going to do the rigging blocks when I got studying this particular segment:
When this caught my eye.
And then, I started looking at this:
And behold, I noticed that something was a bit different.
Which led quickly to the famous "expletive deleted," Note that the band below the "coupling band" is missing. I completely overlooked it. (It isn't on the main mast, which I did first). Not only is it a band, but it has a hoop and two "eyes" in it!
Since there are pins running all the way through the mast and glue and such, I decided to make a ring an bend around the mast. I just didn't think I'd be able to take it apart without destroying the mast. Although I know its only wood and some wire, I just didn't want to do that again.
I knew that I wouldn't be able to solder it on, but I put the overlap in so that I could drill through the overlap and have the "pin" hold it closed and tight.
I made all new parts and go this:
After making the missing parts, drilling, painting, making the parts and everything, it came out in the "there will be ropes all over it anyway" category. Honestly, it isn't perfect and there is a seam that is unsightly. But I can live with it!
-
PopJack got a reaction from russ in Bluenose by PopJack - Model Shipways - 1:64
WELLLLLL, I have uttered some unkind words.
So, I was looking at the plans today, trying to figure out how I was going to do the rigging blocks when I got studying this particular segment:
When this caught my eye.
And then, I started looking at this:
And behold, I noticed that something was a bit different.
Which led quickly to the famous "expletive deleted," Note that the band below the "coupling band" is missing. I completely overlooked it. (It isn't on the main mast, which I did first). Not only is it a band, but it has a hoop and two "eyes" in it!
Since there are pins running all the way through the mast and glue and such, I decided to make a ring an bend around the mast. I just didn't think I'd be able to take it apart without destroying the mast. Although I know its only wood and some wire, I just didn't want to do that again.
I knew that I wouldn't be able to solder it on, but I put the overlap in so that I could drill through the overlap and have the "pin" hold it closed and tight.
I made all new parts and go this:
After making the missing parts, drilling, painting, making the parts and everything, it came out in the "there will be ropes all over it anyway" category. Honestly, it isn't perfect and there is a seam that is unsightly. But I can live with it!
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