Bob Fraser

Basically, these "hog chains" were iron rods anchored into the hull and superstructure that acted like the trusses on a bridge, holding the hull to a certain shape while still allowing some flexibility (much as a truss bridge can still flex or sway). They were tensioned or loosened using iron turnbuckles set partway down each length of rod.
 
This kit is not, shall we say, lauded for its historical accuracy in any way; it's the steamboat equivalent of a Disney pirate ship ride. But it still makes an attractive model with a lot of options for modeler's license, so don't feel constrained by any of the above. Do what looks good and right to you! For example, the lashing in question was quite well done and would look nicely at home on many sailing ships, so be proud!

A little more work this evening:
 
 

Gettin’ jiggy with it.
 
Already presented this jig but sometimes something super simple helps enormously.
By the way, this is one of the laser cut parts I had to rework.
 
 

Thanks for the kind words, Bob and Cleat.
 
I think one thing I’ve taken away from this build is that the directions will lead you astray if you follow the book down to the part. Skip the rail beams and once the second deck rooms have been installed, start looking ahead and thinking about the third deck, stairways, masts, steam stacks and rigging locations. I made the mistake of installing the first deck railing support beams by using the side-view plans because the book showed them being installed, and then worked them bottom-up. But now all of my support beams are a bit off which is causing me to have to get creative with the laser cut railings. I should have waited until the third deck was laid before adding any rail support beams and then moving from the top-down using the deck plan for their placements. And even then, build everything from the inside out before adding them or else the rails will block certain operations like filing out some of the pre-cut holes in the deck or passing rigging. In hindsight, I should have done them last.
 
Oh, well. Next time…
 
 

Looking nice and neat!

Added some railing to the upper deck today:
 
 

Well time has progressed and so has my work on my ship.  I have completed wiring and attaching the pilot house to the ship.  With that all the electrical is done being ran and most of the ships main pieces have been constructed.  Now it is time to start adding the details which there are a lot of. I am excited to see it really taking shape.  My next step is to trim it out, I am just waiting for the wood I ordered to start that process.

The pilot house windows were a challenge, I decided to go with black thread and laminating it between the clear plastic.  I think it came out very well and will now be new tool in my tool box for future builds.

 It also is lit in the pilot house and I will show off the lantern that I built in the roof later on.


now I wait to work on the trim and start the details.  I think it is starting to look like a ship.  Thank you to my wife for taking the pictures.

I have one of these - very useful for a quick change and no need to change the collet. It's permanently fitted unless a bigger shaft collet is needed.
The only thing I would add is that if you have a Dremel then buy the Dremel accessory, not one that is compatible. 
More money, but I found the compatible one I bought had a slightly different thread and would have re-threaded the Dremel if I had forced it on.
On the other hand, a compatible flexible shaft fitted perfect 😵

Some more railings. Still some sanding to do.

As of this evening.

Have the first walls ready to install on the hull of the river boat.  Next up, next floor.
 
 Enjoy!!
 

 

 

After months of prep and working on my blender mesh deformation skills I have finished the quarter cabin.
 
Showed my work against the kit supplied one.
 
I want to mix the 3d resin plastic with wood as much as possible so that you get the crisp lines and details mixed with some wood grain.
 
The roof was a little tricky but just fiddly but not too difficult. 
 
I've also finished all the forecastle knights heads and railings.

Before I start building up the sides, etc.  I seen that a few steps later it says to paint the bottom of the first deck.  Well instead of building it up why not paint it now.  So, I spend about 15-20 minutes  and masked everything but what I want to paint (airbrush).  I like airbrushing because it gives me a better finish than  brush painting and to me I can get a sharp edge between parts I want to spray.
 
Here is the result.  Comments?  Suggestions?
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

I got a replacement carronade from Bluejacket (bottom one in picture), this was the closest one in size I could find to the one included in the kit.  I assume it’s the same one supplied in their 1:48 revenue cutter model.

I cleaned up the flash, built a new support for it and painted it with Tamiya bronze.  It is now rigged up on the bridge.

After working with the kit supplied rigging, I can see where some better aftermarket rigging line would be a significant upgrade.  I’ll order some replacement rigging line and start the masting process.

I did a minwax polyshades pecan stain.  It's a stain & polyurethane finish.  Basically, stain and finish in one step.  Did two coats on everything, sand between coats. (It's the same finish I did for my roll top desk).   I wanted something other than a natural finish.   Anyway, the hull is completed and now on to the walls, windows, doors.
 
Primed some doors and windows.  So, after painting them they will be ready to install when the time comes.
Here are a few pictures of my progress.
 
Oh and like a dummy, I forgot to thread wires for any lighting.  So, it may or may not be lighted.  Either way, it'll be a great model in my showcase anyway.
 

 

 

 

 
 

The build continues
 
 have the deck and bottom done (that was fun) so next I’m going to give all of that a clear coat and then proceed on with the next part.
 

IMG_1489.mov  

 

I used superglue for most jobs on my Mississippi, with PVA / white / wood glues where stuff needed a little joggling about to fix.
In hindsight I found superglue - CA - soaks into the wood, especially the wider grained ones like mahogany, and causes discolouration.
Next proper build it will be alphatic or white wood glues, and spend a bit more time clamping and waiting, with CA only where absolutely needed.
When rigging a touch of CA on the end of the rope, cut to an angle, makes a great needle point for threading blocks etc.
 
You're right, building these isn't a race.  Someone on here has the tagline "wood is patient" and it's right.
Not sure about Occre, but AL only supplied just enough wood without allowing for mistakes, save the offcuts as they can be used to plank the cabin walls.
 
Cheers,

Putting the finishing touches on the walls for the second level. The cutouts for the doors were actually a little too large for the door provided (maybe 1/32” or so) so I ended up cutting some screen from a window to place behind the doors for a little more structural support with the glue and also to fill in the small gap on both sides of the door. 

Attached the third deck on to the ship, and ran lighting,

The wire you see going through the top is for the pilot house, which I am planning to light up as well.  After the pilot house is installed and lit, I will go back and add trim to all levels like the first floor currently has, so that i can hide the ugly edges and stop light bleed.  But she is coming along, 
And here you see my little helper that has been with me through the whole process giving me pointers.
Till next time...

Had mine for about 4 years now, with no real issues, just an occasional head clean.

Had mine for about 4 years now, with no real issues, just an occasional head clean.

Had mine for about 4 years now, with no real issues, just an occasional head clean.

Hello. I have been inspired to pick up on my long ago started Cutty Sark. I started this one in roughly 1987-1988 right after I finished the Revell USS Constitution.
It didn't take long for me to get burnt out on after doing the Constitution. It has been packed away ever since. It has survived 2 marriages and several moves. Fortunately I wasn't very far along on it, and it was able to fit back in the box, even with the hull halves glued together. After unboxing it again only one broken leg on the foremasts second section. Not to bad for having been unloved for years.
 
I have read the following build logs a couple of times to pick up ideas and tips.
 
Cutty Sark by Bruma - Revell - 1:96
Cutty Sark by Kevin-the-lubber - Revell - 1:96
Cutty Sark by bcochran - Revell - 1/96
Cutty Sark 1/96
Cutty Sark by VitusBering - Revell - 1:96 - Redux
 
Cutty Sark by Bill97 - FINISHED - Revell
 
Here is where I am restarting from. I have already started to rework the foremast. I am also working out how to lower the main deck, if it's even feasible. I was the recipient of another kit that had been started a few years ago so I have it for experimentation. The rest of the kit isn't usable the decks are horribly warped and the masts are assembled very poorly. But have plenty of spares of everything else.
 
I have also picked up the most recommended books I have seen listed.
 
I will probably have plenty of questions. And my naval terms knowledge is not very good. But I do port from starboard (I think).
 
Looking forward to getting in deep with this.
Thanks for looking.
 
Tom W.
 

I would suggest considering the upfront expense on an Ecotank model of printer to be well worth the expense if you actually plan to use the printer when you want, rather than needing to ration the ridiculously expensive consumables of a typical inkjet.

I have two - An Epson ET-2650 (A4 printer/scanner/copier) and an ET-7750 (A3 printer/scanner/copier), which work out cheaper than monochrome laser prints for 'average' colour prints on plain paper (though a coated paper does give better quality results - and noticeably increases print costs).

I've so far recovered about half the cost of the printers in reduced printing costs and they are both still functioning and I expect them to do so for many years to come, because they are actually used, rather than left to clag-up.

The standing rigging is as done as it can get for now.
 
The ship is balanced on the stands, they're not glued to the hull nor are standoffs permanently attached, this is just a test to see if I like the color.
 
Yard sling chains are installed, will be trimmed to length when the yards are attached.
 
Now I'll start work on the yards. They need lots of stuff like jackstays, Flemish horses, footropes, a variety of blocks and pulleys, etc.