Dallas by SteveA - Artesania Latina - 1:50

[SteveA]

I've had this old AL kit in storage for a long time and thought it would be a good subject to improve my planking skillset.  The box has a copyright date of 1978.  I probably acquired it in the '80s.  

 

 

I got as far as putting the false deck on the bulkheads but that seems to be as far as I got prior to giving up in frustration many years ago.

 

I am now working on tapering the keelson and frames to apply the bottom layer of planks.  The drawings show a sharp taper is needed at the bottom before application of the bottom planks.  This method is new to me as previously I have used the rabbet method on other builds.

[Dr PR]

I'll be watching this build. I am working on a topsail schooner revenue cutter myself.

[Cathead]

Any further progress?

[Capt Mongo]

I, too, have this kit.  I started it many years ago in my ill-spent youth.  Fast forward 35 years or so and I came across the box with all the remaining parts and thought to resume the build.  It appears that the hull that I started has gone missing in the many intervening moves. 

 

I thought to replace the parts from the manufacturer.  I contacted Artesania Latina; they no longer produce, stock or support the kit. 

 

I think I can replicate the keelson and the deck fairly well using the kit plans.  However, the bulkheads will not be possible to reproduce since they are not represented in the plans.

 

My question is, for anyone following this thread, do you have the bulkheads available that you could trace them onto paper and send them to me that I might be able to make the parts?  I will, of course, reimburse any associated costs.

Also, the parts call for 4mm and 2mm plywood.  I have searched unsuccessfully all over the internet for such material.  Is there a producer or supplier in the US for thin plywood in metric dimensions?

Assuming that I can find the materials and information I need to resume this project I look forward to the OP's insight on making this model.

TIA to anyone that might be able to help me!

[SteveA]

Apologies for the long break on this build.  I seem to have a short attention span and too many projects at once.  Anyway, I’ve made some progress with the base layer of planking.  Here are a few pics showing progression and progress to date.

[SteveA]

For some reason the top plank rode up above the deck during the assembly process but I was able to correct the issue by shaving the plank down to the correct alignment.

[SteveA]

I am trying to shape the stern now.  It will be a challenge to get from where it is to match the plans, but I’ll give it a shot. I have lots of wood filler and scrap wood.😁

[SteveA]

On 3/1/2022 at 4:28 PM, Capt Mongo said:

I, too, have this kit.  I started it many years ago in my ill-spent youth.  Fast forward 35 years or so and I came across the box with all the remaining parts and thought to resume the build.  It appears that the hull that I started has gone missing in the many intervening moves. 

 

I thought to replace the parts from the manufacturer.  I contacted Artesania Latina; they no longer produce, stock or support the kit. 

 

I think I can replicate the keelson and the deck fairly well using the kit plans.  However, the bulkheads will not be possible to reproduce since they are not represented in the plans.

 

My question is, for anyone following this thread, do you have the bulkheads available that you could trace them onto paper and send them to me that I might be able to make the parts?  I will, of course, reimburse any associated costs.

Also, the parts call for 4mm and 2mm plywood.  I have searched unsuccessfully all over the internet for such material.  Is there a producer or supplier in the US for thin plywood in metric dimensions?

Assuming that I can find the materials and information I need to resume this project I look forward to the OP's insight on making this model.

TIA to anyone that might be able to help me!

For some reason I made paper tracings of the bulkheads many years ago and kept them in the box.  You are welcome to those if you still need them. I have bulkheads 2-9.

[Cathead]

Nice to see you back! Good progress on the hull.

[SteveA]

The kit provides 0.5 mm thick walnut strips for the veneer planking.  There is no recommendation for the type of glue to use for this veneer top layer in the Dallas instructions.  I have an Occre kit in my stash that recommends using contact cement for this top layer.  I was wondering if the general consensus is to use contact cement for the veneer or is another type of glue recommended.  What are some preferred brands for contact cement in this application?

[SteveA]

Well its not pretty but I think the stern has been re-shaped to match the plan drawing.  I had to remove a good bit of material but was able to fill the holes and reshape the area with a Dremel and sanding. 

[Cathead]

Sorry I didn't catch up on this until now. I've never done a double-planked hull but I think I've seen advice elsewhere to primarily wood glue but use small spots of quick-curing CA to hold the planks down while the wood glue dries (which still doesn't take long when you use a thin layer). But make sure you use a thin layer of glue, overdoing it will warp planks and make a mess.

 

Stern repair looks nice.

[SteveA]

Thanks Cathead, I glued down the deck planks using a thin layer of titebond that I rubbed on with my finger and they quickly adhered to the plywood.  The deck planks are the same dimension as the hull top planks so the thin layer of wood glue should work out.

 

Progress update, the keel has been attached and decking layed down.  I may still add some nail holes to the deck for visual interest.

[SteveA]

I went ahead and added nail holes to the end of the deck planks.  I stained the deck with some golden oak, which helped highlight the nail holes and wood grain, but maybe too much grain?  It came out a bit splotchy but looks kind of like a weathered deck I think.  Not sure how I feel about the results but I’ll live with it.  I probably did not sand it evenly before putting the stain on, oh well, lesson learned.

 

I also added the bulwarks and counter piece.  A little more prep work on the hull and then it will be ready for the top hull planks.

[SteveA]

It’s been a while, but I wanted to give an update on the revenue cutter progress.  This one has been on the back burner but some progress has been made.  The hull veneer was applied as well as the waterway.  I also built a cradle from black walnut.

 I started putting together some of the deck furniture but am a little confused on the construction of the hatch with cannonball storage racks.  A detail in the instructions shows the cannonballs sitting on parts 50 a-b.  It seems strange to me that there is nothing to secure the cannonballs to the rack.  

I could put a retainer board next to part 50 but this is not shown in the design or picture. What is the method for securing cannonballs in practice?

[Dr PR]

I think they usually rested in hemispherical pockets in the boards. Gravity held them in place.

 

Although they are often seen for show I suspect the cannonballs were normally stowed below decks to keep them dry and prevent rusting. They would be carried up to the racks on deck as the vessel prepared for action.

[SteveA]

Thanks Phil, based on your info, I drilled out shallow pockets for the cannon balls.  This will give them more glue surface than what the drawing showed.

 

Some progress has been made on the deck furnishings and sub-assemblies.  I put pins in the channels for added strength, otherwise, I’m sure the rigging would have pulled the channel from the hull.

 

Here is the channel attached to the hull.

Here are the parts provided for the rudder assembly:

 

All of the straps provided were pre-drilled for bolts and were too long.  I trimmed them to fit and drilled additional holes where needed.

Pins were clipped shorter to simulate the bolts on the straps.

I think the final rudder assembly looks decent, but very challenging to construct using the provided materials.

Here are the parts provided for the vent:

Vent assembled:

 

Locker assembly:

Final locker assembly on deck:

Cabin assembled:

Final cabin assembly:

I put pins in the knighthead bits for strength, there is no way these would stay in place with glue alone:

Knighthead bits attached to splash boards:

 

Here are the parts provided for the pumps:

Final pump assemblies on deck:

I drilled out holes in the deck for the masts using a drill press, the plans show an 11 degree rake for the masts, this was easy to reproduce on the drill press:

 

The cannon assembly was somewhat disastrous.  The cannon barrel was in rough shape as it came, the metal was cracked and the finish had flaked off in some areas.  Also, the barrel was a little bent.  It also didn’t help that I dropped it a couple of times and broke pieces off.  I used a file and tried to smooth it out as much as possible and used putty to fill the cracks in the barrel, then painted it cannon black.

 

And this is where progress currently stands: 

Next is the rigging for the cannon.  The instructions are unclear as to the proper way to rig the cannon so it should be an interesting exercise.

 

 

Edited August 28, 2023 by SteveA

[ccoyle]

Hmmm -- your model is looking very nice, apart from the rather sad little pivot gun. Have you thought about replacing that at all? There should be better options available in 1/48 scale, maybe even in 1/50.

[SteveA]

I got a replacement carronade from Bluejacket (bottom one in picture), this was the closest one in size I could find to the one included in the kit.  I assume it’s the same one supplied in their 1:48 revenue cutter model.

I cleaned up the flash, built a new support for it and painted it with Tamiya bronze.  It is now rigged up on the bridge.

After working with the kit supplied rigging, I can see where some better aftermarket rigging line would be a significant upgrade.  I’ll order some replacement rigging line and start the masting process.

[SteveA]

I received some replacement rigging from Syren.  I ordered the closest in size I could get to the rigging provided in the model kit.  I have to say I’m impressed with the quality of the Syren scale rope.  I really like how sharp the details are and even the sheen on the rope.  This will look a lot better than what came with the kit, especially the tan running rigging as can be seen in the comparison photo.  The top rope is from the kit.

 

[SteveA]

Hello all, I’m back to working on this old kit after a lengthy break so wanted to provide a brief update on progress.  I was never really happy with the way the gun turned out so a remodel was in order.  A nice turned brass 12 pounder was ordered from HiSModel along with the carriage.  That cannon is now installed after a bit of destruction and rebuilding.  The kit provided a few steel ball bearings for placement on the rack.  I used some brass blackener on them and was happy with the result:

I’m currently working on the fore and main mast.  Trying to deal with missing pieces and insufficient material, but I’m still determined to finish this one…  

[Dr PR]

Steve,

 

Good progress! I like the new 12 pounder. Historical records tell that the pivot gun on these small revenue cutters was often a 12 pounder.

 

The short range carronade would have been nearly useless. They were OK on ships that had dozens of them along with a battery of long guns, where the carronades were used in the final moments before boarding. But the revenue cutters with a single gun needed to have an effect at longer ranges.

 

Before starting on the rigging you might want to read though this link:

 

 

[Cathead]

Always nice to see a dormant build come back to life!

[SteveA]

Dr PR, Thanks for the link.  Very informative and useful reference during the rigging process.  I think I’ve done just about everything I can think of prior to rigging so it looks like it’s time to start.  I’m going for a natural look on this model with a wood finish only and brass, it will be finished with Tung oil only. The kit was short changed on some parts materials so I had to build some parts with wood I had on hand (cherry, basswood, mahogany), but I think it worked out alright in the end with the Tung oil finish.